Behind the Scenes Minis: Sewing Basket

Summary

Stuff You Missed in History Class: Behind the Scenes Minis – Sewing Basket

Release Date: July 18, 2025
Hosts: Holly Fry & Tracy B. Wilson
Production: iHeartRadio

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In the "Behind the Scenes Minis: Sewing Basket" episode of Stuff You Missed in History Class, hosts Holly Fry and Tracy B. Wilson delve into the intricate and creative world of sewing. This episode offers listeners an engaging exploration of sewing projects, pattern scaling, historical patterns, and the personal journeys of the hosts in their sewing endeavors.

Opening Remarks and Setting the Stage (02:10 – 02:57)

The episode kicks off with Holly and Tracy sharing their current moods and the unusual timing of their recording session. Holly expresses her excitement about discussing one of her passions: patterns and sewing.

Holly Fry (02:51): "Listen, I'm also just excited and wiggly. Cause we have behind the scenes where we get to talk about one of my favorite things, which is patterns and sewing."

Tracy humorously mentions her recent time off and the challenges of adjusting to a new work computer, setting a lighthearted tone for the discussion ahead.

Current Projects and Passion for Sewing (02:58 – 05:40)

Holly reveals she is in the midst of a significant sewing project—a wedding dress for a friend—which fuels her enthusiasm for the topic.

Holly Fry (02:58): "I'm in the middle of a giant sewing project right now. I'm making a wedding dress for a friend. So I'm like, sewing all the time when I'm not doing my job. And that just makes me want to talk about sewing all the time."

Tracy admits she hasn't scaled up patterns but shares memories of learning to sew from her mother, highlighting the foundational skills passed down through generations.

Tracy B. Wilson (03:35): "So my mom taught me to sew, taught me to sew with patterns. So I learned the things like figuring out what size you are and, you know, how to cut out that size from the pattern..."

Debate on Modern vs. Hand-Drawn Patterns (03:27 – 05:40)

The conversation shifts to the complexities and frustrations of scaling patterns. Holly recounts a lengthy argument on a sewing and costuming message board about recommending modern patterns versus hand-drafted ones.

Holly Fry (04:31): "I just looked at my computer screen, I was just like, ah, gotcha. This technology's already solving so many cases."

She emphasizes the challenge of scaling up patterns, which she admits is a "big pain in the tuchus," while also linking it to her ongoing plush koala project.

Preservation and Modern Techniques in Pattern Making (05:40 – 07:12)

Holly shares a nostalgic journey of rediscovering sewing patterns from a magazine of her youth, particularly the elusive plush Christmas koalas. Thanks to modern technology, she was able to scan and scale old patterns using Photoshop, making them accessible for contemporary use.

Holly Fry (06:25): "The koalas are ongoing. I have not posted an update lately, but I am posting them on Instagram because they're so fun."

She appreciates the preservation efforts that have allowed patterns to remain intact over decades, contrasting it with the deteriorated older patterns made without acid-free materials.

Iconic Patterns and Their Impact (07:12 – 12:00)

A highlight of the episode is Holly's admiration for the Butterick Walkaway Dress, a pattern so popular in 1952 that Butterick halted other productions to meet demand. She details the simplicity and enduring appeal of the dress, which remains a favorite among retro enthusiasts.

Holly Fry (10:25): "This pattern has been reissued many times. You can buy it now. Maybe if you're going to order it directly from the website, do that now, because I don't know how long that's going to be around."

Tracy confirms familiarity with the pattern package, underscoring its iconic status in the sewing community.

Sewing as a Creative Outlet and Personal Expression (12:00 – 22:54)

The hosts transition into a heartfelt discussion about their relationship with sewing. Holly clarifies that her passion lies not just in sewing itself but in creating unique, personalized garments.

Holly Fry (20:48): "I always tell people it's not so much that I love to sew. It's that I love having clothes. And a lot of them."

Tracy shares her mixed feelings about sewing, acknowledging both her enjoyment and the frustrations from past sewing disasters. She reflects on how societal pressures and bullying during her formative years impacted her enthusiasm for sewing.

Tracy B. Wilson (22:22): "I have had some sewing disasters that were, like, so upsetting and so frustrating that I can't put it all into the category of I love this, you know?"

Holly, contrastingly, speaks about overcoming negativity and embracing her unique style through sewing, drawing strength from designing her own fabrics and garments.

Holly Fry (23:00): "I just hit a different moment. And then by the time I was like, 13, 14, I was like, I'm making all my clothes. And I loved wearing my weird stuff."

The Evolution of Sewing Patterns and Industry Changes (22:55 – 19:42)

Holly expresses concerns about the future of commercial pattern companies, highlighting the rise of independent pattern companies that offer specialized and retro designs. She encourages listeners to explore these new avenues amidst potential changes in the industry.

Holly Fry (17:41): "There are ones that specialize in retro patterns. There are ones that specialize in like really, really like simple shape, easy to make knits. There are ones that specialize in almost anything you could want."

The episode takes a serious turn as Holly addresses the controversial history of Berta Patterns, whose founder was involved with the Nazi party. She grapples with the ethical implications and the challenge of separating the art from the individual's past.

Holly Fry (18:40): "The founder of Berta Patterns got involved with the Nazi party. And when you re. And I Won. It's a different game than this. It was going on in Germany."

Tracy supports Holly's discomfort, emphasizing the importance of acknowledging and interrogating such historical associations.

Tracy B. Wilson (19:39): "Yeah. More interrogation of all that."

Embracing Creativity and Encouraging Listeners (22:54 – 24:38)

Returning to a lighter tone, Holly and Tracy discuss the joys and challenges of sewing as a means of creative expression. They share personal anecdotes about their sewing processes, including altering patterns to better fit their needs and the satisfaction of creating unique garments.

Holly Fry (21:00): "It's the absolute best. Yeah. I just love sewing."

They encourage listeners to engage in creative activities that bring them peace and fulfillment, whether it’s sewing or another passion.

Holly Fry (23:35): "I hope if you have time off that you get time to do whatever it is that you like or that makes you feel peaceful or fulfills your creative urges."

Conclusion and Final Thoughts (24:38 – 27:01)

As the episode wraps up, Holly and Tracy reiterate their love for sewing and the importance of personal creativity. They hint at upcoming episodes, promising a blend of classic and new content to keep their audience engaged.

Holly Fry (24:38): "We are gonna be right back here tomorrow with a classic episode and then on Monday we will have something brand new."

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Notable Quotes:

• Holly Fry (02:51): "We have behind the scenes where we get to talk about one of my favorite things, which is patterns and sewing."
• Holly Fry (04:31): "Scaling up patterns is a big pain in the tuchus."
• Holly Fry (10:25): "This pattern has been reissued many times. You can buy it now."
• Holly Fry (20:48): "I always tell people it's not so much that I love to sew. It's that I love having clothes."
• Tracy B. Wilson (22:22): "I have had some sewing disasters that were, like, so upsetting and so frustrating."

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Final Thoughts:

This episode of Stuff You Missed in History Class offers a rich and personal look into the world of sewing, blending historical insights with the hosts' own experiences. Whether you're an avid sewist or simply curious about the craft, Holly and Tracy provide a thoughtful and entertaining narrative that highlights the enduring passion and creativity inherent in sewing.

Transcript

[Tracy B. Wilson]

This is an iHeart podcast.

[Holly Fry]

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[Holly Fry]

Welcome to STUFF you MISSED in History Class, a production of iHeartradio. Happy Friday everybody. I'm Holly Fry.

[Tracy B. Wilson]

I'm Tracy B. Wilson.

[Holly Fry]

We're laughing because apparently I'm on another planet today. Like I'm just. My timing of things is weird. I'm having a. Having a moment. I don't know what to tell.

[Tracy B. Wilson]

Yeah, we're just, we're. We're recording in the afternoon, which is not typical. Yeah, I am just back from some time off during which I forgot how to do anything involving my job. And I also have a newly issued work computer which has thrown everything off.

[Holly Fry]

Listen, I'm also just excited and wiggly. Cause we have behind the scenes where we get to talk about one of my favorite things, which is patterns and sewing. Yeah.

[Tracy B. Wilson]

Yeah.

[Holly Fry]

I'm in the middle of a giant sewing project right now. I'm making a wedding dress for a friend. So I'm like, sewing all the time when I'm not doing my job. And that just makes me want to talk about sewing all the time.

[Tracy B. Wilson]

Yeah.

[Holly Fry]

We talked about so much stuff in this episode.

[Tracy B. Wilson]

It was a lot.

[Holly Fry]

I have so many things to comment on. Have you. You mentioned. I think it was while we were recording your mom having various tools to do scaling up of patterns. Have you ever done it?

[Tracy B. Wilson]

I have not.

[Holly Fry]

Ooh, it's a pain in the tuckus.

[Tracy B. Wilson]

It's seemed like it would be like.

[Holly Fry]

I don't like it.

[Tracy B. Wilson]

So my mom taught me to sew, taught me to sew with patterns. So I learned the things like figuring out what size you are and, you know, how to. How to cut out that size from the pattern and in. We always saved the pattern for future use. So I probably could have, like. If I was trying to make something from a pattern I had used before, but I had gone up a size, I might have been able, with my mom's help, to, like, work that out. But the, like, the. The idea of, you know, starting from a sort of template and turning that into a thing that needed to be sized up for a person that would have relied on some skills that I struggle with. And I never got that far. I don't know that I would have needed to get that far in my sewing education, but I did not.

[Holly Fry]

Yeah. I remember once getting into a long and protracted argument on a sewing and costuming message board. That's how far back we're going that I ran with someone. Cause I had mentioned I had made a garment for Brian, a historical, like a Victorian coat. And I was like, hey, this is like an easily gettable pattern. Like, and this one person was just adamant that I should not be recommending people use modern patterns. I should only be recommending that they hand draft from existing pattern. And I was like, okay, cool. Yes, that's more accurate. But, like, that is something that not everybody has the skill or interest in doing. And they were like, anyone can do it. You just have to learn it. And I'm like, anyone can, but not everybody wants to like. And it just went on and on for like a month of back and forth. I should have just tapped out earlier, but it was Making me crazy. Anyway, yeah. Scaling up patterns is a big pain in the tuchus. And I will say this. This relates to the koalas, which are an ongoing process. Right. I have made one of the koalas. I have the fabric for the others and haven't gotten to them yet because of this wedding dress progress.

[Tracy B. Wilson]

If you're like, what are these koalas? Because you haven't listened to all of the episodes recently.

[Holly Fry]

Yeah. This is a pattern that existed in a magazine from my youth that I wanted to make of these plush Christmas koalas and their clothes. And I was obsessed. And then I couldn't. I didn't ever find the patterning, and my mom said they were a little too complex for me, but I yearned for them. And when she died, I went through all her stuff, like all her sewing stuff, trying to find it, and I couldn't find it. And then I magically found it eventually, thanks to an Etsy seller who had scanned in all the pages of this magazine and also had, like, tagged them all. So, like, Christmas koalas popped it up anyway.

[Tracy B. Wilson]

Yeah. So if you didn't hear that earlier episode, now you're caught up on the koalas.

[Holly Fry]

The koalas are ongoing. I have not posted an update lately, but I am posting them on Instagram because they're so fun. But one of the things that really tickled me about it was that I benefited from the years that have gone by. The like 40 years since when that. When the magazine was published. Because now I can just pop those pattern scans into Photoshop or another editing thing, blow them up to the right size, and then print them right out. Granted, that's for like a plush thing, not a full size garment, but you could also do it for a full size garment. You would just have to tape your print pieces together or take them to a specialty printer. But yeah, yeah, that is an avenue that is now available for people that want to do things that were drafted and printed long ago.

[Tracy B. Wilson]

Yeah.

[Holly Fry]

One of the things that was really awful back in the old days, and I have dealt with some of these, is that to save on paper and page numbers, sometimes you would get these in a book and multiple pattern pieces would be overlaid over each other and you would have to figure out which line went to which one and, like, draft it from.

[Tracy B. Wilson]

My head hurts thinking about that.

[Holly Fry]

It was awful. It was awful. I did a couple and I was like, whew, this is rough. This is rough stuff. There's a really funny. It tickled me. It may tickle no one else. We talked about the Queen and Lapsy tailoring book and how they would, you know, go on and on about their thoughts on various garments. But one of the things that tickled me was that they had this one section that was just on breeches. Okay. And it just started with some practical observations on the theory and practice of making breeches. This delicate and necessary appendage to dress requires more comment than the trade would perhaps really imagine. Chiefly owing to the great variety of materials of which they are composed according to the choice and approbation of various customers and that they may suit the purpose. Basically they're like, we know you don't want to talk about underwear, but we really have. I just love that. I thought it was the funniest thing ever.

[Tracy B. Wilson]

I like how this passage clearly had the long S's that look like F's, which always makes it more funny to me.

[Holly Fry]

Yes.

[Tracy B. Wilson]

And I also am just thinking about how my grandma would have called that britches.

[Holly Fry]

Yeah. Many people would.

[Tracy B. Wilson]

I still sometimes say britches. So.

[Holly Fry]

Yeah, yeah. And those get into like different. Right. The terminology shifts a little bit because for a long time that would have been underwear. But also they get used. That gets used for pants Nowadays, like.

[Tracy B. Wilson]

I would think of britches as pants.

[Holly Fry]

Where are you wearing? For the most part, you don't have your britches on. What are you doing? Yeah, can't leave the house. You got no britches on. I feel you, but I just thought that was a hoot. Listen, you can still find great underwear patterns, by the way. Love them. Love them. Because that's a great way to burn through fabric overages in your scraps.

[Tracy B. Wilson]

Oh, yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah.

[Holly Fry]

I have a 1940s little undies pattern that I make all the time. One of the cool things that that has happened in terms of preservation is that because most of these patterns that were printed on it at full size from the beginning were printed using acid free tissue paper. Is that they haven't broken down.

[Tracy B. Wilson]

Oh, nice.

[Holly Fry]

So there are quite a few that exist in like repositories and museums and whatnot. I wouldn't unfold them and use them.

[Tracy B. Wilson]

Sure.

[Holly Fry]

But they're there and they have been preserved in various ways, which is kind of nice because we get a really clear view of some of it. Have you ever heard of or did you ever encounter when you were sewing the Butterick walkaway dress?

[Tracy B. Wilson]

I don't think so.

[Holly Fry]

I love this dress. Here's why. There's a cool factoid which is that in 1952, this dress pattern was so popular that Butterick shut down production of all of its other patterns and was running only this pattern on its presses until they could get all of the back orders fulfilled that they had. Because there were so many people that wanted to make this dress. And the reason why is that it's the simplest dress on earth. There are only three pattern pieces to it. The front looks kind of like the front of, like a column dress, like a slightly tailored columnar dress. Right. Like a straight up and down straight skirt. Very simple. Some darts to create the bust seaming and whatnot. But then the back has the second pattern piece, which is the top of the back, like the back bodice. And then the lower piece, which is a very fluffy skirt. And it's wide enough that it wraps around the front and it usually buttons right there at the front at the waist. And so it creates, with only that one closure, a dress that's super easy to make, super easy to put on. I've known a lot of people that do retro stuff that still make these, and they'll do them reversible. So you can pack for an event and you have two dresses in one.

[Tracy B. Wilson]

Nice.

[Holly Fry]

This pattern has been reissued many times. You can buy it now. It's readily available. Maybe if you're going to order it directly from the website, do that now, because I don't know how long that's going to be around.

[Tracy B. Wilson]

I've definitely for sure seen this pattern package.

[Holly Fry]

You have, I guarantee.

[Tracy B. Wilson]

Yeah, I just googled it. Yeah, definitely, for sure. But I don't think I made it.

[Holly Fry]

Yeah, it's a goodie. If you're me and you're a bit hippie and you decide to make it, you want to extend that front piece a little bit wider because it kind of wraps around your. Your front hip and usually ties or some people do, like an elastic, like a button in elastic at the back. But, like, for me, if I just make it as sewn, I tend to have gaps at the side because my hips are wide. But you can always alter it. And then once you have your pattern down, you can just turn out, like, multiples, like a uniform. That was why that one quote about, why not just cut out six or 12 shirts at a time? It's really easier. I'm like, yes, it is. That's how I survived in, like, my 20s in terms of having clothes. And even in college, it would be like, I'm making a dress. Yeah, I'm gonna make three of this dress. Because I don't wanna mess with pulling patterns out over and over. I would just lay out layers and layers of fabric at a time and cut everything at once.

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[Holly Fry]

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[Holly Fry]

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[Tracy B. Wilson]

Yeah, the same mental question.

[Holly Fry]

Yeah, I have many questions. I love it. I will say for any of our listeners that are stitchers or sewists or however they choose to identify, that are chagrined about the possible end of or even if they continue, I imagine there will be big changes of the big main commercial pattern companies. There is a world now of independent pattern companies that are. Many of which are fantastic. There are ones that specialize in retro patterns. There are ones that specialize in like really, really like simple shape, easy to make knits. There are ones that specialize in almost anything you could want. So if you haven't ever ventured into that world, I would, you know, take a look around. Cause there's some pretty good stuff out there. Now we have to talk about the elephant in the room, which is what? Birda patterns. Yeah, I mean, I don't wanna. Okay, there's some Nazi problems.

[Tracy B. Wilson]

Yeah.

[Holly Fry]

Yeah. The founder of Berta Patterns got involved with the Nazi party. And when you re. And I Won. It's a different game than this. It was going on in Germany. But two, I didn't find a satisfactory examination of that situation because the few attempts at biography are all very well. Like, he didn't believe in it. It was just good for business. It was a way to make his business continue and survive. And I'm like, keep thinking about that quote of, like, if there are 10 people at a dinner table and one of them is a Nazi, they're all essentially Nazis, because that's poison. And if you're not calling it out, you're letting it happen. So I. I just was like, I'm not even gonna get into this. It's a whole big. There could be a day in the future. I don't know how far along that we would talk about that whole thing. If I can find more examination.

[Tracy B. Wilson]

Yeah. More interrogation of all that.

[Holly Fry]

Yeah. That isn't so. Like, he's just trying to get by. And I'm like, you were in the Nazi military. And it wasn't like he was 17 and was conscripted. He was a businessman at that point. I don't know what his lived experience was. I haven't done enough research. But also, I'm like, oh, this makes me really uncomfortable. So that's. What's up with that. Anyway. Sewing. Sewing all the time. Sewing. I love it. I love it. I like it. It's very. This is actually a funny thing, because people throughout my life, because I have always sewn. I started sewing when I was three, so I don't remember how to not sew. But people always assume that if you sew, you love sewing. Like, we. The joke among anybody, and I'm sure you've run into this, is that, like, now there are a lot of shirts that say, no, I won't hem your pants. People think that if you sew, you just love to sew. You want to put anything under a needle and stitch it, and it's like, no.

[Tracy B. Wilson]

Yeah.

[Holly Fry]

And I always tell people it's not so much that I love to sew. It's that I love having clothes. And a lot of them.

[Tracy B. Wilson]

Yeah.

[Holly Fry]

And clothes that are unique.

[Tracy B. Wilson]

I do often enjoy sewing and making things, but I have also had some sewing disasters that were, like, so upsetting and so frustrating that I can't put it all into the category of I love this, you know?

[Holly Fry]

Yeah.

[Tracy B. Wilson]

And it's also something that I have not done with any kind of regularity in a long time, in part because I live in New England and we don't have a Lot of space.

[Holly Fry]

Yeah. Yeah. I've definitely had some disasters. And I love doing creative stuff, but I definitely see sewing as a means to an end. Right. I want a porg that is tropical colors. Well, nobody's gonna make that. I gotta make them myself.

[Tracy B. Wilson]

Sure, sure.

[Holly Fry]

I want, you know, a crazy looking dress that has droids all over it that is kind of a ball gown. No, nobody's gonna make that. I have to make it myself.

[Tracy B. Wilson]

I also think my relationship with this has been affected by the fact that, like, I, like, I learned to sew in elementary school ages. And I was in 4H, and I was in brownies, and we did all of these things that involved sewing and, quote, handicrafts. And as I got to an age where other kids didn't think that was cool, I cared a lot about what other people thought of me.

[Holly Fry]

Yeah.

[Tracy B. Wilson]

No matter how much I tried not to care about what other people thought of me, I really did care. And I, like, I got to an age that I was being bullied for wearing clothes that I had made myself to school and that hampered my desire to continue doing it.

[Holly Fry]

Yeah. I could see that for sure.

[Tracy B. Wilson]

And this is something that, like, I. The fact that you did not care what anybody thought of you ever is something I have always admired about you because that is a skill that I have never developed for myself.

[Holly Fry]

I did at some point, but then I think I've said on the show, I remember the exact day that I stopped caring.

[Tracy B. Wilson]

Yeah.

[Holly Fry]

Where I just was like, I won't say the phrase that I like to say because it has bad words in it, but I just was like, sure, I don't trust these people's taste. What am I worried about? But I did kind of a flip of what you just described where when I was young, when I was younger and my mom made a lot of my clothes, I hit a moment where I was like, please stop making my clothes. Like other kids comment on it.

[Tracy B. Wilson]

Right.

[Holly Fry]

And then by the time I was like, 13, 14, I was like, I'm making all my clothes. And I loved wearing my weird stuff. So, yeah. I just hit a different moment.

[Tracy B. Wilson]

Yeah.

[Holly Fry]

And I still love making all my weird stuff. Yeah. Now we're in the dangerous zone where you can, you know, design your own fabric and have it printed and make your weird clothes out of that. And it's brilliant. I love it. I love it to pieces. It's the best. It's the absolute best. Yeah. I just love sewing. If this is your weekend coming up, I could tell you what I'll be doing and it's sewing because I gotta finish this project. But if you, whether you're sewing or not, I hope if you have time off that you get time to do whatever it is that you like or that makes you feel peaceful or fulfills your creative urges. If you don't have time off, maybe you can sneak some of that kind of stuff in. Listen. It's also perfectly cool if you just want to sit on the couch and watch TV all weekend. I'm not going to judge. Those are great weekends. Sometimes if you are out in the world, I hope everyone you encounter is kind to you and that everybody's cool. Yeah, we are gonna be right back here tomorrow with a classic episode and then on Monday we will have something brand new.

[Tracy B. Wilson]

Stuff youf Missed in History Class is a production of iHeartRadio. For more podcasts from iHeartRadio, visit the iHeartRadio app, Apple Podcasts or wherever you listen to your favorite shows.

[Unknown]

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[Holly Fry]

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[Unknown]

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[Holly Fry]

He never thought he was going to get caught and I just looked at my computer screen, I was just like, ah, gotcha. This technology's already solving so many cases.

[Unknown]

Listen to America's Crime Lab on the iHeartRadio app, Apple Podcasts, or wherever you get your podcasts.

Join iHeartRadio and Sarah Spain in celebrating the one year anniversary of iHeart Women's SP with powerful interviews and insider analysis. Our shows have connected fans with the heart of women's Sports. In just one year, the network has launched 15 shows and built a community united by passion podcasts that amplify the voices of women in sports. Thank you for supporting iHeart Women's Sports and our founding sponsors ELF Beauty, Capital One and Novartis. Just open the free iHeart app and search iHeart Women's Sports to listen.

Now the Girlfriends is back with a new season and this time I'm telling you the story of Kelly Harnett. Kelly spent over a decade in prison for a murder she says she didn't commit. As she fought for her freedom, she taught herself the law.

[Holly Fry]

He goes, oh God.

[Unknown]

Harnett jailhouse lawyer and became a beacon of hope for the women locked up alongside her.

[Holly Fry]

You're supposed to have your faith in God, but I had nothing but faith in her. I think I was put here to save souls by getting people out of Prison.

[Unknown]

The Girlfriends Jailhouse Lawyer. Listen on the iHeartRadio app, Apple Podcasts, or wherever you get your podcasts.

[Holly Fry]

I knew I wanted to obey and submit, but I didn't fully grasp for the rest of my life what that.

[Unknown]

Meant for my heart. Podcasts and Rococo Punch this is the Turning River Road. In the woods of Minnesota, a cult leader married himself to 10 girls and forced them into a secret life of abuse. But in 2014, the youngest escaped. Listen to the Turning river road on the iHeartRadio app, Apple Podcasts, or wherever you get your podcasts.

[Tracy B. Wilson]

This is an iHeart podcast.