Loading summary
Transcript98 lines
- [00:00]
Tracy V. Wilson
This is an iHeart podcast. Guaranteed Human
- [00:06]
Chase Secure Banking Advertiser
that feeling when you check your bank account and your paycheck's days away. And of course, your calendar's all good news. With Chase Secure Banking, your direct deposit hits your bank account up to two days faster. So when your friends are like and your bills go, you have the peace your deposit brings. And the best part? There's no monthly service fee for 17 to 24 year olds, thanks to Chase Secure Banking.
- [00:28]
Chase Secure Checking Disclaimer
For Chase Secure Checking, only eligible direct deposits may be credited up to two business days early, depending on when the payer submits the transaction.
- [00:34]
Grainger Advertiser
Member FDIC when you're a maintenance engineer in a beverage manufacturing plant, you keep production lines moving and quality on track because there is no room for slowdowns. With Grainger's vast selection of high quality motors, sensors, belts and hard to find parts, you can get what you need fast and all in one place. So nothing gets in the way of getting the job done. Call 1-800-GRAINGER Click grainger.com or just stop by Granger for the ones who get it done.
- [01:04]
State Farm Advertiser
This mood check is brought to you by State Farm. Porque t bieng estar tambieng merese protecion. Let's keep it real for a second, honey. German checking in contigo if your animal is low, your group chat's dry and not even your musica is hitting like usual. Respira profundo. You don't have to do it all today. Un dia alla ves. Little by little you're doing better than you think. Like a good neighbor, State Farm is there.
- [01:29]
Carolyn (Patient Testimonial)
I'm Carolyn. I'm a wife, a mother, a grandmother. I have a beautiful life. When I was diagnosed, I was concerned. But then I realized, though my circumstances may have changed, I haven't. And the things that matter to me haven't changed either. We believe in my medical team. I also believe in Kaskali.
- [01:48]
Kaskali Advertiser
Carolyn is a real patient, compensated for her time. Visit cascali.com that's K-I-S-Q-A-L-I.com to learn more. And ask your doctor if Kiskali Ribociclobe is right for you.
- [02:02]
Holly Fry
Happy Saturday. After this week's episode on Charles Goodyear and the invention of vulcanized rubber, we're re airing an episode on the history of something that was dramatically impacted by that breakthrough. And that's the Raincoat.
- [02:15]
Tracy V. Wilson
This originally came out January 23rd, 2023. Enjoy.
- [02:22]
Holly Fry
Welcome to Stuff youf Missed in History Class, a production of iHeartradio. Hello and welcome to the podcast. I'm Holly Fry.
- [02:36]
Tracy V. Wilson
And I'm Tracy V. Wilson.
- [02:38]
Holly Fry
So Tracy, I'm sure you have heard of a jacket being called a Macintosh.
- [02:43]
Tracy V. Wilson
Uh huh.
- [02:44]
Holly Fry
And these days lots of jackets are called that.
- [02:47]
Tracy V. Wilson
It became kind of a generic, always correctly.
- [02:50]
Holly Fry
It really means arrangement raincoat. And if you want to get granular, it means a specific kind and brand of raincoat. And that's because it's actually named for the man who is usually credited with inventing the modern raincoat, and that was Scottish chemist Charles McIntosh. But as with just about any invention, it is not as though he came up with the idea out of thin air. Humans have worked on ways to make garments water resistant almost since they started wearing them. Whale intestines, woven grass and leaves, animal furs, tightly woven wool fibers, and even, even oiled and waxed fabrics have been used around the world by various peoples to try to keep the rain and moisture at bay. But figuring out how to manufacture clothes with rubber was a really big breakthrough that took actually kind of centuries, but people really wanted to figure out the rubber puzzle.
- [03:43]
Tracy V. Wilson
I really love looking at pictures of the various kinds of rainwear that different cultures have developed around the world. Some of them are just so fascinating to in terms of what we're talking about today. There are accounts that indicate that indigenous peoples in the Americas used the natural rubber from trees in a lot of different ways and were applying rubber to their clothing as a waterproofing tool well before Europeans arrived in the Americas. Then Europeans, particularly Spanish and Portuguese explorers, adopted this same practice. It was not something that they brought back home with them to Europe, though. Rubber did not really become something that Europeans paid a lot of attention to until the mid 18th century, when French botanist Francois Fredneau de la Gautolier started writing about it after spending time studying the plants in French Guiana. Frenaud actually wrote about the possibility of combining rubber with textiles to create waterproof clothing as early as 1749.
- [04:53]
Holly Fry
But though Freneau and other Europeans who had visited the Americas had seen this application and had even used it themselves, you would think, of course, they would want to bring that back to Europe. But the problem was transport. Although the scientific community of Europe was really eager to experiment with cow dschuc, as it was known in Freneau's writing. And often for a long time, it couldn't really be stabilized for transport. And so reportedly that raw material would coagulate on the voyage across the Atlantic. Freneau thought that rubber could be combined with turpentine as a solvent, but that Actually caused it to break down and it introduced oxygen into the mix and it just further degraded it.
- [05:35]
Tracy V. Wilson
So enter a repeat character from the podcast. That is Jacques de Vacanson of the pooping robot duck automata fame. He was really fascinated with rubber, and he's often credited with creating the first rubber tube, which he used in that duck. He was one of the more prominent scientists of the 1700s who was talking to colleagues about the potential of using rubber in a variety of applications that certainly increased its profile as a subject of interest. He also communicated the importance of this line of scientific research. In the early 1760s. He did that when talking to Henri Leonard, Jean Baptiste Bertin, who at the time was King Louis XV of France's finance minister.
- [06:22]
Holly Fry
Yeah, he was like, we should really put some money behind this research, shouldn't we? It's very cool. But it took several more years for the next link in the chain, meaning another scientist to propose another solvent that would make rubber into a substance that could be used for a wide range of practical applications. That was the work of French chemist Pierre Joseph Macair. Despite being very busy in the 1760s writing the historically significant Dictionary of Chemistry, he also wanted to crack the problem of a solvent for rubber. And he proposed ether as another solvent option and presented his work to the Academie Des Sciences in 1768. But ether was far too expensive to really ever do anything at a large scale.
- [07:07]
Tracy V. Wilson
In 1779, an Italian botanist and chemist named Giovanni Valentino Mattia Fabroni of Florence picked up this effort. As a young scientist, Fabroni had traveled to Paris and London at the behest of Tuscany nobility and had collected instruments for a new laboratory. That laboratory evolved into the Science Museum of Florence. During these trips, Fabroni, of course, met other scientists, and it's believed that that's when he became interested in rubber. It was a few years after that initial supply run that Fabroni was back in London. And through experimentation, he identified petroleum distill, or naphtha, as a solvent for rubber. Fabroni did see some textile applications for this and prepared some samples of fabrics that were coated with rubber. He published his findings in France and Italy in the 1790s, with the most detailed write ups about it appearing in Italy in 1796. So here it is. This is the first rainwear. Nope, actually not. Petroleum distillate was difficult to produce in large quantities. The next step was scientists figuring out how to actually make these discoveries viable for more than just these little one off samples.
- [08:29]
Holly Fry
Yeah, and these were like, not as though he was even making clothes with the samples. It was like, here is your sample of an 8 by 8 inch piece of fabric. Here's a fabric.
- [08:38]
Tracy V. Wilson
Here's the fabric.
- [08:39]
Holly Fry
Yes, it's a swatch. At that point, other scientists continued to work on how to make rubber work practically. But before garments, there was another use for rubber coated fabric, and that was balloons. But here's the thing, we actually don't know a whole lot about this use. It does brush up against two previous episodes though, and what we have is correspondence between Fauju de Saint Fond, one of the people who wrote about the Montgolfier brothers and their early ballooning efforts, and another pair of brothers, the Roberts. That correspondence is kind of on the bickery side. It seems that each side of the communication believed that they had had the idea to try waterproofing balloon fabric first. And there are also some references years later to something called Blanchard Solution, again referencing Sophie Blanchard. That would suggest that that was a rubber and turpentine solution that she used on her balloon. But there aren't really any specifics about where that solution came from, if it had been used successfully, et cetera.
- [09:45]
Tracy V. Wilson
Across the Atlantic Ocean. Spanish scientists working in Mexico were also working on rubber. At the end of the 18th century, Diaz de la Vega had been one of several men who had traveled to the Americas to learn more about the plant known as Castilloa elastica, after other Europeans had returned home excited about it. In this case, the effort was funded by the Spanish colonial government, and de la Vega was an employee of that government. He created not clothing, but containers. He did that by layering textiles with natural latex and then shaping the layered result into something that could hold mercury. We don't really have specifics on the dimensions or the shape of those containers, but it seems like the whole project kind of faded off. It was not really pursued later.
- [10:36]
Holly Fry
I would love to see those. But then, in the late 1700s and early 1800s, a British surgeon named James Howison, living in Asia, did start applying rubber to clothing to make waterproof gear. And he wrote about all of this in a paper titled Some Account of the Elastic Gum vine of Prince Wales island and of Experiments made on the milky juice which it produces with respecting the useful purposes to which it may be applied. The Prince Wales island in the title is the Malaysian island of Penang. And Howison is credited with identifying a rubber producing plant called Ursiola Elastica. And in his paper, Howison stated that older vines of that plant produced the best couchouc and described it as Being similar to a thick cream. He also described making wax molds of items like gloves and boots and then dipping them into his rubber solution to make completely rubber items and using a ruler to spread liquefied rubber onto clothing, making himself an entire set of waterproof clothes.
- [11:41]
Tracy V. Wilson
The next person in Europe to work on waterproofing with rubber was really young when he figured some advances out. He was just 18. His name was James Syme, and he was a medical student in Scotland. His story is interesting because it butts right up against that of Charles McIntosh, who's credited with inventing the raincoat. In 1818, Syme wrote up his findings that mineral naphtha was the best thing to thin rubber into a usable liquid form. And like those before him, he worked on waterproofing clothes by spreading this liquid rubber on them.
- [12:20]
Holly Fry
Other scientists were working with rubber and writing about the various qualities they observed in it during all of this. Dutch physiologist Jan Ingenhuis wrote about rubber stickiness in 1779, writing, this wonderful substance possesses a strong power of attraction for itself, so that two pieces cut with a sharp instrument will adhere strongly together if joined before the cut, and smooth edges have been touched by the fingers. A French scientist named Grossard built on that stickiness idea in his work developing a method of joining rubber together for his work on rubber tubing. And building on that was Thomas Hancock, who developed a device called a masticator in the early 1800s that processed rubber to a desired viscosity for use in a variety of applications, including the types of hoses that Grossard had developed. Hancock's masticator was a cylinder with spikes that rotated, and rubber material was passed through one end and was warmed and cut by the spikes over and over before being extruded from the other end, as what was called by one writer, quote, a united plastic compound.
- [13:29]
Tracy V. Wilson
But unlike his predecessors and their experiments with rubber, Hancock did not immediately publish all of his findings. He recognized the possible commercial benefit of keeping the masticators working secret, and he ended up working with Charles McIntosh. So we'll be talking about the man whose name with a different spelling is still associated with raincoats in just a moment.
- [13:54]
Holly Fry
Before we get into Charles McIntosh's story, we're gonna pause for a sponsor break.
- [14:01]
Chase Secure Banking Advertiser
That feeling when you're trying to build your credit, and it's like, over and over again, good news. Chase Credit journey can help you with a personalized score improvement plan provided by Experian. So when you still need that credit built, you have the guidance you need. You can even get a Chase Secure banking account with no monthly service fee if you're 17 to 24 years old. Hallelujah.
- [14:24]
Chase Secure Checking Disclaimer
This tool is for education purposes and doesn't guarantee you'll reach your credit score goal. The score you receive uses VantageScore 3.0 model and may not be the model used by lenders.
- [14:30]
Kaskali Advertiser
Member FDIC Join us for another season of Untold Life with a Severe Autoimmune Condition, a production of Ruby Studio in partnership with Argenics. We're sharing even more inspiring stories from people living with conditions like MG and cidp, and also opening the conversation to voices from other rare diseases like myositis and Eigen. Through these journeys, we'll explore what it's like to participate in clinical trials seeking new treatments, how connection fuels hope, and how shared experiences help move research, awareness and care forward. Because living with a rare disease isn't just about getting through it, it's about moving forward together. Listen to Untold Stories on America's number one podcast network, iHeart. Follow untold stories and start listening on the free iHeartradio app today.
- [15:31]
Malcolm Gladwell
I'm Malcolm Gladwell, host of Smart Talks with IBM. I spoke with Sergey Ghosh, Heineken's Chief AI Officer, to learn how the company is brewing up new workflows with AI. If you can connect all the different
- [15:45]
Holly Fry
applications, all the platforms remove fragmentation scale very quick. That's what we call the best connected broad.
- [15:51]
Malcolm Gladwell
That's where IBM is really partnering with us. Crack a cold one and listen to our full conversation@IBM.com smartttalks
- [16:01]
Prime Video Ride or Die Advertiser
they were best friends from the moment they met and for 20 years nothing could come between them until one shocking secret changes everything. One of them is an international assassin and the other had no idea. Octavia Spencer and Hannah Waddingham star in Prime Video's hilarious, clever, action packed and irresistibly fun new series Ride or Die When Debbie Spencer Octavia Spencer world implodes. Thanks to her husband's corrupt dealings, she's thrust into a deadly game of survival and forced on the run. Her only hope? Judith Hannah Waddingham, her ride or Die bestie who just happens to be a fierce and lethal assassin. What follows is a wild race across Europe filled with explosive action, unexpected twists, dangerous enemies and plenty of laugh out loud moments as the two friends chase the truth. A danger is never far behind and staying alive may be their toughest challenge. It's an action comedy, espionage thriller and buddy adventure that proves some friendships are literally bulletproof. Don't miss the new series Ride or Die now streaming only on Prime Video.
- [17:17]
Holly Fry
Charles McIntosh, that's spelled Mac. There's no K in his proper name spelling, was born in Glasgow, Scotland on December 29, 1799. Perhaps almost all accounts of his life list that as his date of birth. But the dissenter in information on this particular note is a pretty significant one. It's the National Records of Scotland website which lists his birth date as November 29th. And there is a photo of the birth and baptism entry for Charles McIntosh. It is easy to make out the Nov. November on the entry as well as the Macintosh spelled differently than he spelled it in his lifetime and the name Charles. But the rest of the words are a little bit tricky to make out. They are in handwritten script, which, you know, anyone's handwriting is tricky and sometimes that very elegant but very fancy looking script that you'll see in old documents is very hard to discern. The December date, though, is what is given, for example, in the biography of Macintosh that was written by his son. So that date is what the immediate family used.
- [18:22]
Tracy V. Wilson
Charles's parents were George McIntosh and Mary Moore McIntosh. George had a factory where dye was produced, and his intention was that his son would one day take over this business. As a boy, Charles attended grammar school and was recognized early on for an aptitude in Latin language. In particular, after grammar school, he attended Catterick Bridge School in Yorkshire. After studying in England for several years, Charles went back to Scotland and started working at the counting house of another merchant in Glasgow that was a Mr. Glassford. The goal was this position would further develop Charles's knowledge of business. And in his biography, this reads sort of like an apprenticeship, but sometimes it's characterized more as McIntosh just getting a job as a clerk.
- [19:12]
Holly Fry
Yeah, it seems like there was a more clear career goal. I read a few that were like, after being tired of being a clerk, he became an inventor. And I'm like, that's not really right. But regardless of how that position began, the Glassfords and the McIntoshes were friendly and eventually both fathers and sons. So four men total, all became business partners. And by this point, McIntosh was already very interested in the latest advancements in chemistry. He exchanged letters with a lot of scientists about new discoveries and theories on the matter.
- [19:47]
Tracy V. Wilson
He was also a member of the Commercial Society of Glasgow, which existed from 1787 to 1803. This group was formed so that merchants and businessmen in the area could discuss and debate social and political issues that impacted the economy. During this time, Charles McIntosh wrote essays on various happenings of the day, including the late 18th century friction between Britain and Ireland. This has a decidedly pro British slant. He also wrote essays for the Society about European trade, agriculture, the iron trade and the manufacture of textiles, specifically wool. In his essay on wool, he wrote, quote, this essay commences with expressions of regret that the woolen manufacture should not have been introduced on a scale of any extent, and Scotland, seeing that the country is in many respects well calculated for it.
- [20:44]
Holly Fry
And these essays were written when McIntosh was still very young. They were all written before he was even 21. And during that time he was also busy working on starting his own business enterprise. He started a company in partnership with his father and another investor named William Cooper to manufacture ammonium chloride, which at the time was called sal ammoniac. This was not a glamorous enterprise. Macintosh's primary sources that he used for extraction of ammonium chloride were soot and urine, and it was difficult to process in the late 1700s, but then it could be sold to metalsmiths and pharmacies. This business only lasted about six years, but during it, Charles was often corresponding with experts in production to refine his process and to use the resources he had available through this venture to perform some additional experiments of his own and expand the company's offerings.
- [21:38]
Tracy V. Wilson
Not long after the company formed, Charles started traveling around Europe to make sales deals. This involves having a lot of pluck for a man in his early 20s, but to be clear, he had a lot of help from his father and his father's business associates, all of whom made introductions for him and encouraged their various contacts to consider doing business with him. When McIntosh returned to Scotland, he brought back some knowledge as well, including of new innovations in chemistry. According to an early 19th century Scotland Statistics report, it was Charles McIntosh who introduced the production of acetate of lead and acetate of alumina into Britain.
- [22:20]
Holly Fry
McIntosh wrote about this in a letter to a business associate several years later in 1800. Quote, when in Holland I was admitted to see a sugar of lead work, and was struck with the circumstance of both the lead and coal, and frequently the malt used in making the vinegar employed in it being imported into Holland from Britain, and that the manufactured article, when sent back to us, should become loaded upon its arrival with a duty of 3 pence per pound. On my return to Glasgow, I attempted to make sugar of lead and was successful in making a salt equal in quality to the Dutch. I established a manufactory of it in the year 1786, which, as you know, has been going on pretty successfully ever since.
- [23:04]
Tracy V. Wilson
So he had realized that he could circumvent that process of exporting raw material that was used in making lead and then importing the acetate and paying an import tax for it. This would have been something of significant interest to McIntosh, because lead acetate, as it is more commonly known today, is a dye fixative that's used in the textile industry. So it would have really benefited the family business to produce it right there in Glasgow instead of being dealing with all these imports and exports. This actually led to Britain supplanting the Netherlands as the main exporter in Europe of lead acetate. McIntosh had not patented his process, though, so a lot of other manufacturers jumped into production as well.
- [23:50]
Holly Fry
McIntosh got married to Mary Fisher in 1790. They most likely met through one of McIntosh's business contacts. It seems like all of his life was kind of set up through his and his father's business contracts. Because her father was also a Glasgow
- [24:06]
Tracy V. Wilson
merchant, McIntosh was involved in a lot of businesses in his early years. He made advancements in dye production, particularly with the color known as Prussian blue. He also opened Scotland's first alum works. One of the advertisements that ran for one of his products read, quote, Charles McIntosh and company's refined malt vinegar for the use of families and for pickling etc. Vinegar of the most superior quality. For the above purposes warranted in perfectly pure vegetable acid, in which the most delicate tests can detect no adulteration of any kind, and which will never spoil from keeping nor deposit any slimy, gelatinous substance, this vinegar will be found equal in strength and flavor to the strongest French white wine vinegar, over which it possesses many advantages.
- [25:01]
Holly Fry
I can't imagine a modern ad for any kind of food product invoking slimy, gelatinous substances. That's why that cracked me up. So if you read most versions of the raincoat creation story, they state that in 1823, Macintosh was kind of working on a sustainability project. He wanted to find uses for the coal Tarnaphtha that was produced in gasworks. So naphtha is an oily liquid that's produced when natural gas condensates and coal tar, used in production, distills into the desired gas and that condensation. This often reads as though it was kind of a eureka moment, where he goes, oh, I could use this. But as we've discussed, a lot of scientists were working to get to a way to work with rubber, and naphtha had already been arrived at as a really viable option in that quest.
- [25:53]
Tracy V. Wilson
McIntosh was interested in chemistry and would have absolutely had to read about the Work of his predecessors. This was such a popular topic that it would have been really hard to avoid reading about it. And several years before he got to his part in the rubber story. In 1819, McIntosh made an agreement with the Glasgow gasworks to buy the waste products that were left after using coal to make gas. Those products were tar and ammonical liquor. Some of these waste products were used in the various dye processes that Macintosh worked on, but he also put them to use in other textile experiments, including with rubber.
- [26:36]
Holly Fry
So the actual invention, and I feel like we should air quote that, since he's kind of acting on many other ideas that people have had, is described as follows in an account written by Thomas Hancock. He's the one that invented that masticator machine. After the separation of the ammonia in the conversion of tar into pitch to suit the purposes of consumers, the essential oil termed naphtha is produced. And the thought occurred to him of its being possible to render this also useful from its powers as a solvent of koutchuk, or India rubber. By exposure to the action of the volatile oil termed naphtha, obtained from the coal tar, he converted this substance into a waterproof varnish, the thickness and consistency of which he could vary according to the quantity of naphtha which he employed in the process.
- [27:26]
Tracy V. Wilson
So McIntosh realized, or maybe confirmed for himself, that naphtha could break down India rubber into a dissolved form. India rubber is the naturally occurring rubber that can be extracted from various tropical plants. Incidentally, it went from being called caoutchouc, which was a term taken from indigenous languages in the Americas, to being called India rubber when English speaking scientists realized it could be used to rub out unwanted writing or drawing marks from a pencil. The India is a reference to the West Indies, not the Indian subcontinent.
- [28:06]
Holly Fry
Yes, in that way that many European names for things don't actually make sense of them. Just thought we would make clear on that. So once Macintosh had a fluid stable rubber to work with, he started experimenting with it on fabric, and eventually he spread some onto a piece of wool, and then he did a thing that other people had not. He layered another piece of wool on top of that, sort of gluing them together and creating a waterproof fabric. Once Macintosh had his fabric tested and a method developed for large scale production, he went right into manufacture. He received a patent for his method of waterproofing fabric on June 17, 1823. It was the fourth British patent for an invention that utilized rubber. And by the following year he was in full production of Macintosh fabric. He had added that extra k into the name as part of his trademark for this. I was never able to ferret out exactly why, but I suspect it was to keep this separate from his other companies that had the Macintosh name attached.
- [29:14]
Tracy V. Wilson
We'll talk about some of the problems with the early raincoats made from this material right after we hear from some of the sponsors that keep stuff you missed in history class going.
- [29:28]
Chase Secure Banking Advertiser
That feeling when you check your bank account and your paycheck's days away. And of course, your calendar's all good news. With Chase Secure Banking, your direct deposit hits your bank account up to two days faster. So when your friends are like and your bills go, you have the peace your deposit brings. And the best part? There's no monthly Service fee for 17 to 24 year olds thanks to Chase Secure Banking.
- [29:51]
Chase Secure Checking Disclaimer
For Chase Secure Checking, only eligible direct deposits may be credited up to two business days early, depending on when the payer submits the transaction.
- [29:56]
Kaskali Advertiser
Member FDIC Join us for another season of Untold Life with a Severe Autoimmune Condition, a production of Ruby Studio in partnership with Argenics. We're sharing even more inspiring stories from people living with conditions like MG and cidp, and also opening the conversation to voices from from other rare diseases like myositis and Eigen. Through these journeys, we'll explore what it's like to participate in clinical trials seeking new treatments, how connection fuels hope, and how shared experiences help move research, awareness and care forward. Because living with a rare disease isn't just about getting through it. It's about moving forward together. Listen to Untold Untold Stories on America's number one podcast network, iHeart. Follow untold stories and start listening on the free iHeartradio app today.
- [30:59]
Malcolm Gladwell
Hello. Hello, I'm Malcolm Gladwell, host of Smart Talks with IBM. I sat down with Alon Cohen, who leads research and development at ufc, to discuss the complexity of using technology to analyze fight data.
- [31:13]
Alon Cohen (UFC R&D)
With kick to the head, it makes contact with the outside of my arm, which I brought up. In our world, that's a blocked strike. Yeah, but teaching a computer what exactly that means and when and how. Like when my arm is up, that's a block. When my arm is down and hits my shoulder, that's not. It's those nuances that proved incredibly difficult for machines to be able to handle for a very, very long time.
- [31:37]
Malcolm Gladwell
That is, until IBM entered the octagon. Listen to the full conversation@IBM.com smarttalks.
- [31:52]
Prime Video Ride or Die Advertiser
They were best friends from the moment they met, and for 20 years nothing could come between them until one shocking secret changes everything. One of them is an international assassin and the other had no idea. Octavia Spencer and Hannah Waddingham star in Prime Video's hilarious, clever, action packed and irresistibly fun new series Ride or Die. When Debbie's Octavia Spencer world implodes thanks to her husband's corrupt dealings, she's thrust into a deadly game of survival and forced on the run. Her only hope? Judith Hannah Waddingham, her Ride or Die bestie who just happens to be a fierce and lethal assassin. What follows is a wild race across Europe filled with explosive action, unexpected twists, dangerous enemies, and plenty of laugh out loud moments as the two friends chase the truth. A danger is never far behind and staying alive may be their toughest challenge. It's an action comedy, espionage thriller and buddy adventure adventure that proves some friendships are literally bulletproof. Don't miss the new series Ride or Die, now streaming only on Prime Video.
- [33:09]
Holly Fry
So this invention of waterproof fabric was a really huge moment in clothing technology. The first synthetic fabric. So the things that are so crucial to our rain gear today, for example, would not be invented for more than a century. People had wanted waterproof clothing for a long time, and this was a big step forward, but it was not perfect. There were a lot of issues right out of the gate. For one, that fabric was hot, blazingly hot. Two layers of wool, plus a rubber layer that did not breathe in between them meant that garments made with Macintosh's fabric could really only be worn comfortably in the coldest weather. But it doesn't only rain when it's cold. Additionally, sometimes the rubberized adhesive that Macintosh had created would become viscous in warm weather, and the fabric would become sticky as it kind of oozed out through the weave. For another, that combination of wool and rubber had some other longevity issues. Wool contains oil. Even after it's been washed, it retains some of the oils that it naturally has as a product that grows out of an animal. And oil can break down a lot of sticky substances. This is our hot tip moment. If you're ever having trouble removing a bandage that's adhered to your skin, just break out a little lotion or baby oil. It works better than soap and water and better than any harsher things you might use. And that is the action that was in play here. So in this case, the wool's oil started to break down the rubber coating that Macintosh had created, so the garment's waterproof layer became less and less reliable over time. And then here's the thing. Just sewing the garment Together meant that every stitch made a tiny hole in the rubber layer. That doesn't sound too bad. But then when you consider that each seam essentially was a line of tiny perforations and that water could soak through all of those, you can see how it's a problem.
- [35:05]
Tracy V. Wilson
Those are all issues with this garment's functionality. But there was also an issue of just general wearability in the early raincoats. They were very stiff, so moving around in them was pretty cumbersome. They couldn't really be tailored, so the fit was sort of like wearing a tent. And while it probably wasn't a huge concern for most people who were just happy to have a garment that would keep them mostly dry, they were not aesthetically very great. The only color they came in was a drab green. And to top things off, they smelled pretty bad. And the was such an issue, they smelled so bad that they were banned on public transportation in some cities.
- [35:49]
Holly Fry
You cannot get on the trolley if you're wearing a raincoat, which I guess means you have to walk. So a number of the flaws of these early garments made with Macintosh fabric, like the stitching lines creating a perforation, came about because Macintosh was making the fabric and then he was selling that fabric to garment makers. But tailors didn't really know how to work with it. How could they? No one had ever sewn rubberized fabrics before, and Macintosh had told them that they'd need to glue the seams rather than just stitching. But garment makers were kind of wary of taking sewing advice from a chemist who did not know how to sew. So after a bit of frustration over this problem, Macintosh just started production on garments in his own factory.
- [36:37]
Tracy V. Wilson
This is a really significant moment in clothing history for a reason other than waterproofing. Charles McIntosh was one of the first garment manufacturers to create clothing in mass production. Most clothing in the 1820s was still bespoke. You didn't go into a shop and buy ready made dresses or suits off the rack. The idea of a clothing factory was not really something that existed. The creation of an assembly line is usually credited to Ransom Olds or Henry Ford in the early 1900s. But McIntosh was 80 or 90 years ahead of them with a garment assembly line. Workers would be assigned to a particular part of the garment, and then the pieces would move on to the next station and another part of the factory.
- [37:25]
Holly Fry
Completely different from the idea of going to a tailor and having a garment made and they do the whole thing.
- [37:30]
Tracy V. Wilson
Yeah. Or making your own garment at home.
- [37:33]
Holly Fry
Yeah. The ready availability of the Macintosh raincoat, once all of this was up and running, actually hurt its reputation a little for a while. In a world where clothes were usually custom made for the wearer, the idea that a businessman and a member of his household staff would wear the same rain gear kind of made it seem less special. But some of the hallmarks of the early McIntosh coats, including a tartan lining to reference its inventor Scottish heritage, have persisted, and today they're seen as marks of quality.
- [38:03]
Tracy V. Wilson
Initially, the Target market for McIntosh's raincoat consisted of sportsmen and domestic workers, like coachmen and footmen. This sounds pretty specific, but it covered the basis for a lot of social strata. While somebody who worked as a member of a household staff would benefit from having a waterproof coat for performing duties that took them outside or walking to and from work, wealthy people would, of course, want to have one in case they wanted to go yachting or hunting. And for the most part, this gear was really geared toward men. Until women's macintoshes were introduced, McIntosh worked
- [38:42]
Holly Fry
on improvements to the design of the raincoat on an ongoing basis to try to address the various issues and to expand the company's offerings continuously. His Glasgow factory setup was initially very labor intensive. The rubber solution had to be hand brushed onto the wool, and then once applied, it was smoothed out again by hand with a spatula to make the application even. This was done to both sides of the wool fabric, and then those two rubberized pieces of fabric would pass through a roller that pressed them together, and that resulting fabric was then tested by hand by applying water and seeing if any patch pass through.
- [39:19]
Tracy V. Wilson
In 1825, he started collaborating with Thomas Hancock, and McIntosh soon realized that Hancock's masticator could really speed up production and save money because it made it a lot easier to dissolve rubber using less solvent.
- [39:35]
Holly Fry
In 1830, a factory in Manchester was established to make Macintosh rainwear, and Hancock's masticators were part of that production line. There were other updates to the process in the Manchester factory, including spreading the waterproofing rubber onto fabric with a mechanized roller machine that was steam powered. That was eventually replaced by a mechanism that rolled the fabric over a canister that contained the waterproofing so that as the fabric passed over it, the rubber was applied, and then it passed through another machine that smoothed it out.
- [40:07]
Tracy V. Wilson
That partnership with Hancock also led to a court battle, although it was not between the two inventors involved in the business deal. Hancock had continued to keep the workings of his masticator secret so that it would retain its market value, but it one of his employees blabbed about it and also blabbed the process that was being used to make Macintoshes.
- [40:30]
Holly Fry
That led to other manufacturers using McIntosh's process. Specifically, a company called Everington and Son was a silk dealer which was headed by a man named Wynn Ellis. Both McIntosh and Hancock were eager to protect their patents and their market. So they sued. And in February 1836, McIntosh versus Everington and Ellis was tried in the Court of Commons.
- [40:55]
Tracy V. Wilson
As part of the defense's case, it was revealed that at least two years before McIntosh had gotten the patent for his fabric rubber fabric sandwiching technique. Balloonist Charles Green had done the same thing with balloon silk. But in Green's case, he wasn't publishing that technique. It was kept secret to give him an edge in the sky, rapidly expanding field of ballooning. That secrecy meant that it had not been something that McIntosh would have known, and he did hold a patent. So even if Green had shared this with the firm of Everington and Son, there was no legal ownership of the process on their part. One of the points made by Thomas Hancock during the trial was the fact that his employee sharing what he knew was the a secret meant that the work he and Charles McIntosh did together was original in nature.
- [41:49]
Holly Fry
Yeah, like, if everybody knew about this already, why did my employee have to secretly blab it? During the lawsuit, the Attorney General pointed out how very synonymous McIntosh had become at that point with the manufacture of raincoats and made the comment, quote, this patent has become almost as well known as Watt and Bolton's patent for making steam engines or arc rights for making spinning machines. Many witnesses were called to testify that, yes, while there were other people who had worked on waterproofing fabric with rubber, McIntosh had been the only one to progress those efforts to a point where a manufactured good was put into production, and that that was only possible because of the innovation he had achieved in sandwiching those layers.
- [42:34]
Tracy V. Wilson
According to newspaper accounts, as the judge was beginning his summation of the evidence to the jury, the jury stopped him and gave the verdict for the plain. After spending just a few minutes conferring there in the courtroom, McIntosh had to go to the Court of Chancery next for an injunction against Everington and Son, which he did. He also petitioned for an extension of his patent, which was set to expire on June 17, 1837, which was just a year later. McIntosh did not get that extension. So all of that battle was really just for the benefit of a year of patent protection.
- [43:11]
Holly Fry
There's an interesting note here about Hancock and his ongoing secrecy and protection of his patent and Macintoshes. Although the entire trial was reported in a periodical called Mechanics Magazine, none of the secret workings of the masticator or the production of McIntosh's raincoats were revealed, even though they were discussed at length in testimony. And that is because Hancock had close contacts at the magazine, and he had been very clear with them that he would really rather not see any of their production specifics spilled in print when they were fighting so hard against the theft of them to begin with.
- [43:48]
Tracy V. Wilson
Just a few years after the lawsuit, a new technology emerged that totally changed the raincoat industry. Vulcanized rubber was introduced in 1839. This was the work of Charles Goodyear. Goodyear wanted to improve on the qualities of India rubber, which melted in the heat and then would would stiffen up to the point that it cracked in the cold. According to legend, it was an accident that Goodyear added sulfur to rubber in a heating vessel. But the result was vulcanized rubber that was a lot more resilient to temperature changes than its predecessor had been. This became the standard for rainwear use. You can find lots of old pictures of storefronts of Goodyear raincoat stores.
- [44:33]
Holly Fry
Yes, yes, I will tell a slight story about that in our behind the scenes. Charles McIntosh did not get a lot of time to marvel at the advances of vulcanized rubber. He died on July 25, 1843, from influenza. He had made quite a healthy fortune for himself. In a census taken two years before his death, his household showed that in addition to the family, a butler and six other members of house staff were living there. McIntosh was buried in the churchyard at Glasgow Cathedral. Fourteen ushers were on hand for the burial, and 40 carriages carried the grieving parties to the service.
- [45:12]
Tracy V. Wilson
Although McIntosh was the brand name of the coat made by Charles McIntosh's company, as we mentioned at the top of the episode, you might have seen a coat or a jacket just referred to generically as a Macintosh or a Mac, even if it wasn't one that was made by the Macintosh company. Much the same way that trademarked words like Kleenex and Coke have become more generically used for things like tissue and soda. The Macintosh has come to mean almost any kind of raincoat, and it's sometimes even applied to garments that aren't waterproof. And that's not something that happened just conversationally. There are print catalogs from as early as the 1920s, with British retailer Harrods calling all of their raincoats Macintoshes, with that k in the spelling.
- [46:03]
Holly Fry
Yes, there are lots of weird arguments. You can also find online about people debating over whether it should always be capitalized or not, or if it has just become a noun on its own. There have of course been many, many advancements in rainwear since Charles McIntosh's death and textile technology continues to evolve. But the first mass produced rainwear was manufactured because of his work and you can incidentally still buy a Macintosh branded raincoat today. Although the company has also evolved over the years, the raincoats are still made by hand with old school methods in a factory that's now in Cumbernauld, Scotland. To work at Macintosh as a coat maker you have to apprentice for three years learning their specific techniques for production. They regularly partner with high end designers now to produce their rainwear lines because the name is so synonymous with quality and those early issues with being so affordable that they were considered perhaps cheap is no longer in play. A wool Macintosh raincoat today will set you back close to a thousand euros. They're beautiful. I see why. They're beautifully tailored, but definitely not something for the everyman anymore. That is the story of the Mecatosh. Anyone who knows me might be able to guess where I got the idea for this episode, which I will reveal on Friday.
- [47:27]
Tracy V. Wilson
No.
- [47:28]
State Farm Advertiser
Yay.
- [47:34]
Tracy V. Wilson
Thanks so much for joining us on this Saturday. If you'd like to send us a note, our email address is history podcastheartradio.com and you can subscribe to the show on the iHeartRadio app, Apple Podcasts, or wherever you listen to your favorite show.
- [47:57]
Chase Secure Banking Advertiser
That feeling when you check your bank account and your paycheck's days away. And of course your calendar's all good news. With Chase Secure Banking, your direct deposit hits your bank account up to two days faster. So when your friends are like and your bills go, you have the peace your deposit brings. And the best part? There's no monthly Service fee for 17 to 24 year olds thanks to Chase Secure Banking.
- [48:20]
Chase Secure Checking Disclaimer
For Chase Secure Checking, only eligible direct deposits may be credited up to two business days early, depending on when the payer submits the transaction. Member fdic.
- [48:27]
Troy Millings (Earn Your Leisure)
This is Troy Millings from Earn your Leisure. When you think about discovering small brands, what store pops in your mind? Well, it should be Walmart. Seriously. Walmart has thousands of small brands and they're all in one place. Just go online or in store, discover and shop. It could not be easier. Every one of these brands has a real story and real people behind it. They're true American success stories and you can find them all at Walmart. Discover thousands of small brands@walmart.com today day.
- [48:57]
Harley Davidson Advertiser
Fill your tank and fill yourself with new experiences with old friends, new ones and the next generation Ready to ride. Get to living with Harley Davidson Motorcycles when the day is finally yours and all you see is open road, you remember why you want to ride. Visit your local Harley Davidson dealer and see what freedom looks like. Click the screen now and start your ride@hd.com Ride Harley Davidson Motorcycle Ride.
- [49:26]
Rare Well Done Team
In the next Rare well done the Thrive team helps two people with CIDP tackle the tricky issue of friendship.
- [49:32]
Prime Video Ride or Die Advertiser
Hello.
- [49:33]
Rare Well Done Team
They say the quiet part out loud.
- [49:35]
Kaskali Advertiser
In the event my CIDP worsens, my friends might decide it's too much, get
- [49:41]
Rare Well Done Team
nudged outside their comfort zone.
- [49:43]
Holly Fry
I don't know if I want to
- [49:45]
Rare Well Done Team
to forge stronger connections.
- [49:47]
Holly Fry
It's the best thing that's ever happened to me.
- [49:49]
Rare Well Done Team
Our friendship to Rory Watch Rory and Michelle take on the friendship factor on the next episode. A rare well done.
- [49:56]
Tracy V. Wilson
This is an I heart podcast. Guaranteed human.