Podcast Summary: The Beauty Brains - Episode 385: Air Drying, Growth Factors, and More

Release Date: January 15, 2025

Hosts: Valerie George and Perry Romanoski

Introduction and Light Banter (00:00 - 07:56)

Valerie George kicks off Episode 385 of The Beauty Brains alongside co-host Perry Romanoski. The duo begins with casual conversation about Perry’s recent trip to Playa del Carmen, Mexico. Perry humorously recounts gaining seven pounds during his vacation due to indulging in food and drinks:

Perry Romanoski [01:21]: "In fact, I weighed myself before and after, and I came home with seven more pounds than I left."

They discuss activities in Mexico, including watching football and enjoying karaoke, and touch on Perry's return troubles with his cat, Ted's increased affection.

Valerie shares personal anecdotes about living in California and Texas, addressing wildfires near her previous residence and the challenges of relocating, such as dealing with tornadoes and unstable soil in Texas. She reflects on surviving an EF4 tornado nine years ago, marveling that her house remained intact:

Valerie George [07:23]: "Our house was still standing after living in it. I would venture to guess it should have been toppled over."

Beauty News: Celebrity Grooming Brands and Industry Studies (07:56 - 16:20)

Valerie and Perry segue into beauty news, highlighting Dwayne "The Rock" Johnson's launch of his grooming brand, Papatouille, available at Target. They humorously note the irony of The Rock, a famously bald individual, promoting hair care products:

Valerie George [08:07]: "The Rock doesn't have hair."

Perry Romanoski [10:01]: "They like have... they have people for that."

They critique a study published in Cosmetics Design that claims low molecular weight collagen peptides offer anti-aging benefits. Both hosts express skepticism regarding the study’s validity, citing potential conflicts of interest and methodological flaws. Perry points out:

Perry Romanoski [10:44]: "They have self-reported satisfaction. So over 90% of the participants in the experimental group reported satisfaction."

Valerie emphasizes the importance of peer review and questions the reliability of open-access publications funded by brands:

Valerie George [12:01]: "The fact there's a registered mark appearing in the abstract and in the study. I just, you know, to me it's like, well, they weren't going to publish it if it were bad data..."

Audience Questions: Growth Factors, Minoxidil, and Hair Care (16:20 - 43:49)

1. Topical Growth Factors in Skincare

Megan’s Question (16:20): How effective are topical growth factors in skincare products for increasing collagen production and minimizing fine lines and wrinkles?

Valerie and Perry delve into the efficacy of growth factors. Valerie remains skeptical, recounting experiences with dermatologists overpromising on growth factors’ benefits. She highlights regulatory pushback, referencing an FDA warning to a Beverly Hills dermatologist for making drug claims about growth factors:

Valerie George [16:45]: "There are studies that show they, you know, in vitro, maybe in vivo a little bit, they can improve... help stimulate hair growth because they stimulate your cells, helping with repair. But I just think in real life, you got to be a little skeptical."

Perry echoes the skepticism, explaining the challenges large molecules like growth factors face in penetrating the skin to reach the dermis:

Perry Romanoski [19:14]: "If it doesn't get down to the dermis, it just sticks here in the stratum corneum... it's not going to do anything."

Despite doubts, Valerie concedes that the serum discussed is affordable ($15.50) and may offer hydration benefits due to ingredients like butylene glycol and glycerin:

Valerie George [22:08]: "...for $15.50, Megan, I would give it a try."

2. Low-Dose Oral Minoxidil for Women's Hair Loss

Tegan’s Question (23:37): Can low-dose minoxidil pills effectively treat hair loss in women?

Perry reviews a 2021 study from the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, noting that oral minoxidil shows promise with about two-thirds of participants experiencing hair growth. However, he cautions that efficacy varies and emphasizes consulting a healthcare professional before starting:

Perry Romanoski [25:44]: "This is something you should talk to your doctor about before you try."

Valerie shares anecdotal success stories but remains mindful of potential side effects like hypertrichosis (excessive hair growth), lightheadedness, and fluid retention:

Valerie George [26:25]: "1.7% people have hypertrichosis... 0.3% periorbital edema."

3. Air Drying vs. Blow Drying Hair

Cassie’s Question (27:18): Does air drying cause more damage to the scalp than blow drying, and how can potential damage be prevented?

Valerie references a past discussion on this topic, critiquing a study that suggested air drying might be more harmful than blow drying. They analyze the study’s methodology, which involved drying hair at various distances and durations, concluding that moist hair could theoretically damage the hair fiber if excessively wet for prolonged periods. However, both hosts question the study's real-world applicability:

Perry Romanoski [35:56]: "I'm not sure how much that study applies to real life."

Valerie offers practical advice, such as using thermal protectants and blow drying techniques that minimize damage:

Valerie George [35:04]: "Just use a freaking thermal protectant."

4. Fragrance-Free, Lightweight Hair Care for Fine Hair

Avery’s Question (36:09): What fragrance-free hair care products can thoroughly clean fine, low-density, curly hair without weighing it down, and what conditioners can detangle without causing shedding?

Valerie and Perry discuss the challenges of formulating effective fragrance-free products. They note that ingredients like glycerin in shampoos primarily affect texture rather than providing moisturizing benefits, as glycerin rinses out easily:

Perry Romanoski [37:58]: "It just rinses down the drain. It doesn't really belong in shampoos, quite frankly."

Valerie suggests focusing conditioner application on the mid-lengths and ends rather than the scalp to prevent buildup. She recommends lightweight emulsifiers like stearamidopropyl dimethylamine and cleansing conditioners for fine hair:

Valerie George [42:25]: "Focus it on the middle to ends of the hair... look for something like stearamidopropyl dimethylamine..."

5. Dark Spot Serums and Pigmentation Treatments

Avery’s Second Question (43:18): Does Caudalie Dark Spot Serum effectively reduce pigmentation, and what are affordable, gentle alternatives available?

The hosts evaluate Caudalie’s viniferine ingredient, which claims to inhibit tyrosinase more effectively than Vitamin C in vitro:

Perry Romanoski [46:20]: "They have viniferin... it's supposed to inhibit tyrosinase 62 times more effectively."

However, Valerie points out the limitations of in vitro studies and the high cost of the serum ($82 per bottle). They recommend more affordable options like The Ordinary’s tranexamic acid serums and Vitamin C derivatives that are less irritating:

Valerie George [49:36]: "You could do a vitamin C ester like tetrahexidosyl ascorbate... something like that."

Closing Remarks and Listener Engagement (43:49 - End)

Valerie and Perry wrap up the episode by encouraging listeners to submit questions via email or Patreon. They promote their social media channels and express gratitude to their audience for supporting the show.

Perry Romanoski [50:21]: "Head on over to patreon.com/thebeautybrains and subscribe at any level."

Valerie adds a light-hearted note about progressing their social media presence:

Valerie George [51:16]: "On our page for the last episode, first one of the year, which is a huge improvement because we made zero last year."

They sign off with their signature sign-off:

Valerie George [51:47]: "Be brainy about your beauty."

Key Takeaways:

1. Topical Growth Factors: While marketed as anti-aging miracles, growth factors in skincare may not penetrate the skin effectively to deliver claimed benefits. Affordable options might offer hydration but not significant anti-aging effects.

2. Oral Minoxidil for Hair Loss: Promising for some women, oral minoxidil shows efficacy in hair regrowth but comes with potential side effects. Consultation with healthcare professionals is advised.

3. Air Drying vs. Blow Drying: Contrary to some studies, normal air drying does not inherently damage hair more than blow drying. Proper blow drying techniques and using thermal protectants can minimize damage.

4. Fragrance-Free Hair Care: Crafting effective fragrance-free products is challenging due to ingredient limitations. Focusing conditioners on hair ends and choosing lightweight formulations can benefit individuals with fine hair.

5. Dark Spot Treatments: High-cost serums like Caudalie’s may offer theoretical benefits, but in vitro claims don't always translate to real-world efficacy. Affordable alternatives with proven ingredients are recommended.

6. Consumer Awareness: Skepticism towards brand-funded studies and an understanding of ingredient functionalities are crucial for making informed beauty product choices.

Notable Quotes:

• Perry Romanoski [01:21]: "In fact, I weighed myself before and after, and I came home with seven more pounds than I left."

• Valerie George [07:23]: "Our house was still standing after living in it. I would venture to guess it should have been toppled over."

• Perry Romanoski [10:44]: "They have self-reported satisfaction. So over 90% of the participants in the experimental group reported satisfaction."

• Valerie George [16:45]: "But I just think in real life, you got to be a little skeptical."

• Perry Romanoski [19:14]: "If it doesn't get down to the dermis, it just sticks here in the stratum corneum... it's not going to do anything."

• Valerie George [22:08]: "...for $15.50, Megan, I would give it a try."

• Valerie George [35:04]: "Just use a freaking thermal protectant."

• Perry Romanoski [37:58]: "It just rinses down the drain. It doesn't really belong in shampoos, quite frankly."

• Valerie George [42:25]: "Focus it on the middle to ends of the hair... look for something like stearamidopropyl dimethylamine..."

• Perry Romanoski [46:20]: "They have viniferin... it's supposed to inhibit tyrosinase 62 times more effectively."

• Valerie George [49:36]: "You could do a vitamin C ester like tetrahexidosyl ascorbate..."

• Valerie George [51:47]: "Be brainy about your beauty."

For more insights and to submit your beauty questions, visit thebeautybrainsml.com or join the conversation on Patreon.