The Business of Fashion Podcast: Giancarlo Giammetti on Securing Valentino’s Legacy

Release Date: May 30, 2025

Introduction

In this compelling episode of The Business of Fashion Podcast, host Imran Ahmed engages in an in-depth conversation with Giancarlo Giammetti, the co-founder of the Fondazione Valentino Garavanni e Giancarlo Giametti. Released on May 30, 2025, the episode delves into Giancarlo's enduring partnership with Valentino Garavani, the evolution of the Valentino brand, the challenges faced in the fashion industry, and the mission of the newly established foundation.

1. Beginnings of the Partnership

Giancarlo Giammetti recounts his serendipitous first encounter with Valentino Garavani on July 31, 1960. This meeting marked the inception of a partnership that would transform Valentino into a global fashion icon.

• First Meeting:
  "I was sitting there all alone and a lot of activities around me. And a kind person came and said, are you alone? I said, yes. Do you mind if me and my friend, they can sit here? And Valentino sat next to me."
  (02:54)

• Language Connection:
  Valentino initiated their conversations in French, prompting Giancarlo to respond in the same language, fostering a deeper connection.
  "From now on, if I see you again, we speak French. And we still do, incredibly."
  (02:54)

2. Building Valentino into a Global Brand

Giancarlo describes the early days of Valentino’s atelier, highlighting the initial struggles and strategic decisions that propelled the brand to international acclaim.

• Early Struggles:
  "I don't have a penny. The investor that my father brought in, they left me. And so I don't know what to do."
  (06:04)

• Relocating to Via Gregoriana:
  Relocating the atelier to a more fashionable area in Rome allowed Valentino to connect with influential clients, including celebrities like Elizabeth Taylor and Marella Agnelli.
  "And in that apartment start to arrive the very important people, from Elizabeth Taylor to Marella Agnelli to all the aristocracy."
  (08:29)

• Strategic Show Movements:
  Moving fashion shows from Rome to Florence enhanced visibility and established Valentino as a prominent name in the fashion industry.
  "I start to move the show. Instead of doing a Rome, we start to work in Florence... people start to talk about us."
  (09:16)

3. Challenges and Changes in Business

Giancarlo addresses the numerous challenges faced while scaling the Valentino brand, including financial hardships and the complexities of maintaining creative integrity amidst commercialization.

• Financial Hardships:
  "Fashion unfortunately is not just marvelous. Of course, difficult business is also challenging because there is something always that make you lose sleeping well."
  (13:19)

• Maintaining Creative Freedom:
  Giancarlo emphasizes the importance of allowing Valentino the freedom to create without excessive business pressures.
  "I tell him, why should we be here? Why should we be order what to do... He says, yes, I'm not for that. I'm very handy. Let's go."
  (14:26)

4. The Personal and Professional Relationship

The enduring relationship between Giancarlo and Valentino is highlighted, showcasing mutual support and a shared vision despite personal and professional challenges.

• Mutual Support:
  "This special relationship we had to protect each other, to be the person you call in the morning, first and last at night."
  (14:46)

• Navigating Disagreements:
  Giancarlo shares insights into how they managed disagreements, emphasizing resilience and the ability to return to normalcy swiftly.
  "Two hours later, they were gone. So you go back to normal life..."
  (18:05)

5. Selling Valentino and Industry Changes

The discussion shifts to the sale of the Valentino business and the broader changes within the fashion industry, particularly the increasing influence of private equity and the challenges it poses to creative legacy.

• Sale of the Company:
  Giancarlo recounts the decision to sell Valentino to an American company, highlighting the subsequent challenges and loss of control.
  "We sold the company to an American company called Kenton where two entrepreneurs... tried to make like today's Alvin Mash or something like this."
  (19:07)

• Current Industry Concerns:
  He expresses concerns about the modern fashion industry's tendency to prioritize financial gains over creative integrity, leading to a disconnect between designers and brand legacy.
  "The designers become their own star... they have their own style. And they don't want to really become a witness of the work of the company where they are hired."
  (21:38)

6. Founding the Foundation and Its Goals

In 2016, Giancarlo co-founded the Fondazione Valentino Garavanni e Giancarlo Giametti with the mission to preserve Valentino’s legacy, promote creativity, and support charitable and educational initiatives.

• Mission Statement:
  "The principles of the foundation are very clear. It is based on education, protection, the legacy, and charity."
  (39:32)

• Educational Initiatives:
  The foundation aims to empower young designers and artists through education and hands-on experiences.
  "We have to help them to acquire the strength that was not me who gave it to Valentino, but they have to conceive inside them and explore and expand."
  (25:03)

• Charitable Efforts:
  Projects include building facilities in hospitals to support children and families, and providing digital education for the elderly.
  "We are covering that with a nice pavilion and... helping older people to navigate the digital world."
  (28:50)

7. The "Horizons Red" Exhibition

The foundation's inaugural exhibit, Horizons Red, seamlessly blends Valentino’s iconic designs with contemporary art, emphasizing the timelessness and cultural significance of the brand.

• Exhibition Highlights:
  "Can you tell us a little bit about why the story of this dress and why it's such an important part of the kind of heritage was really."
  (35:01)

• Notable Pieces:
  Specialized artworks, including pieces inspired by Valentino red, enhance the narrative of the exhibition.
  "Maybe the most important piece from Mr. Valentino's heritage is this fiesta dress... it's the birth of the whole idea of Valentino red."
  (35:01)

• Personal Favorites:
  Giancarlo shares his affection for specific artworks, such as a Picasso-inspired piece, underscoring the intersection of fashion and fine art.
  "The little Picasso, which is the area of war describes so much not just the color red, but the attitude of the figurative expression of a woman."
  (36:51)

8. Future Aspirations and Legacy

Looking ahead, Giancarlo envisions the foundation as a lasting institution dedicated to education, legacy preservation, and charitable work, ensuring that Valentino's influence endures for future generations.

• Sustaining the Foundation:
  "I hope that this is going to be always the keys to the future: education, protection, the legacy, and charity."
  (39:32)

• Legacy Beyond Founders:
  Emphasizing the importance of appointing capable successors to maintain the foundation's mission post their involvement.
  "These are very, very, very well understood, well explained to our successor or to the board, to the advisory board."
  (39:32)

9. Advice for Young Designers

Giancarlo offers poignant advice to aspiring designers navigating the volatile landscape of today’s fashion industry.

• Be Authentic:
  "It's too easy to say, be yourself... You have to believe in yourself and do what you want."
  (40:40)

• Resilience and Passion:
  Emphasizing the importance of passion and perseverance in sustaining a long-term career in fashion.
  "My passion, my respect for what I have to do, I respect for the people who approach us and gratitude for so many friends and who came to see us."
  (41:47)

10. Conclusion

The episode concludes with heartfelt reflections from both Giancarlo and the interviewer, underscoring the profound impact of Valentino’s legacy and the foundation’s role in safeguarding it. Giancarlo expresses deep gratitude for the enduring partnership with Valentino and the collective effort to inspire future generations in the fashion industry.

• Final Reflections:
  "The true test of creating legacy is something that lasts forever. And I think you've done that."
  (43:07)

Notable Quotes with Timestamps

• First Meeting:
  "From now on, if I see you again, we speak French. And we still do, incredibly."
  (02:54)

• Business Challenges:
  "Fashion unfortunately is not just marvelous. Of course, difficult business is also challenging because there is something always that make you lose sleeping well."
  (13:19)

• Maintaining Creative Integrity:
  "I tell him, why should we be here? Why should we be order what to do... He says, yes, I'm not for that. I'm very handy. Let's go."
  (14:26)

• Industry Concerns:
  "The designers become their own star... they have their own style. And they don't want to really become a witness of the work of the company where they are hired."
  (21:38)

• Foundation’s Mission:
  "The principles of the foundation are very clear. It is based on education, protection, the legacy, and charity."
  (39:32)

• Advice for Young Designers:
  "It's too easy to say, be yourself... You have to believe in yourself and do what you want."
  (40:40)

Closing Thoughts

Giancarlo Giammetti's insights offer a rare glimpse into the dynamics of building and sustaining a fashion legacy. His unwavering commitment to preserving Valentino’s heritage while fostering new talent underscores the delicate balance between tradition and innovation in the ever-evolving fashion landscape. This episode serves as both an inspiring narrative and a thoughtful critique of contemporary fashion industry practices, making it a must-listen for fashion enthusiasts and industry professionals alike.