The Business of Fashion Podcast: Glenn Martens – “Social Media Has Turned Fashion into the Hunger Games”
Release Date: September 19, 2025
Host: Imran Ahmed, Founder & CEO, The Business of Fashion
Guest: Glenn Martens, Creative Director (Diesel & Maison Margiela)
Episode Overview
This week, Imran Ahmed sits down with Glenn Martens, the celebrated Belgian creative director behind the revitalization of Diesel and the newly appointed creative head of Maison Margiela. The conversation explores Martens’ unique journey from his upbringing in Bruges to the fashion capitals of Antwerp and Paris, his evolution as a designer, and the immense pressures of modern creative leadership in fashion. A key focus: How social media and “dopamine culture” have made the industry feel like “the Hunger Games” for today’s designers.
Glenn Martens: Childhood & Creative Foundations (03:20–09:46)
- Bruges Upbringing:
- Martens was raised in Bruges, a “medieval little pearl in Flanders,” which he describes as “Disneyland” due to its untouched Gothic beauty.
“You really walk around in Cinderella land…everything is like Gothic and churches and cathedrals and decorations.” (06:05)
- The idyllic setting fostered a classical, even “geeky,” sensibility.
- Martens was raised in Bruges, a “medieval little pearl in Flanders,” which he describes as “Disneyland” due to its untouched Gothic beauty.
- Early Creative Path:
- Initial exposure led to a traditional, Western aesthetic in his early work:
“My Antwerp Academy collections were very pristine…beautiful wool...conceptual, but a reflection of that kind of beauty I grew up in.” (07:13)
- Initial exposure led to a traditional, Western aesthetic in his early work:
- Emergence of Edge:
- Studying at Antwerp Academy and moving to Paris introduced Martens to broader creative contexts and challenged his aesthetic norms.
The Edgier Glenn Martens: Experimentation, Own-Brand Lessons, and Need for Surprise (09:46–15:13)
- Transition from Classicism:
- Martens attributes his shift to “edgy” design post-Antwerp and after experiences in Paris and Istanbul, finding excitement “in something less expected.”
- The Reality of Being Independent:
- His eponymous brand’s three seasons in Paris were physically and emotionally taxing:
“It was a nightmare…asking everybody to do things for free, working seven days a week, cooking soup because you don’t pay your interns.” (12:53)
- Notable memory: Staging a show in La Chapelle Expiatoire, which he found deeply emotional but generally regards the era as “too traumatizing.”
- His eponymous brand’s three seasons in Paris were physically and emotionally taxing:
- Key Learning:
- Running every aspect of his own brand made him a better creative director, fostering empathy for all studio and production roles.
“To be a good creative director…you need to understand which people’s jobs are…because you’ve done all those jobs yourself, all alone.” (14:26)
- Running every aspect of his own brand made him a better creative director, fostering empathy for all studio and production roles.
Creativity, Compromise & The Runway Experience (15:13–18:21)
- Balancing Artistic Vision and Collaboration:
- Martens discusses knowing “when to fight” for ideas and when to compromise, especially between Runway spectacle and commercial product:
“Of course, what we have on the Runway is not always a reflection of what we have in the store—and that’s fine.” (15:37)
- Martens discusses knowing “when to fight” for ideas and when to compromise, especially between Runway spectacle and commercial product:
- On the Power of Immersive Shows:
- Imran notes Martens’ ability to turn shows into “genuinely immersive experiences,” even as product-focused runways have become more common.
- Martens’ philosophy: Fashion’s ultimate goal is to “make people happy,” whether through accessible lifestyle pieces or high-concept dreamscapes.
“It’s all there to make people happy and to make people enjoy life. And I think that’s…one of the most beautiful things of fashion.” (17:09)
Y/Project: Resourcefulness and Reinvention (20:48–27:13)
- The Early Y/Project Era:
- Martens joined Y/Project after the original creative director’s death, alongside a business leader—Gilles Elalouf—who knew little about fashion.
“…We were two juniors…which had no idea what to do with the brand. That was amazing because…nobody was really…We didn’t have a roadmap.” (22:43)
- Martens joined Y/Project after the original creative director’s death, alongside a business leader—Gilles Elalouf—who knew little about fashion.
- Scarcity as a Creative Driver:
- Budget limitations led to the now-signature “versatility” in garments—pieces that transformed or styled differently for men and women.
“Through this, of course, scarcity of budget or resources, we managed to do something quite unique. And that became…the language of the brand.” (24:03)
- Commercial struggles were linked to production and retail timing issues, but the experience shaped Martens fundamentally as a designer and leader.
- Touching memory: The Y/Project team crowdfunded a dog for Martens as a farewell gift, a lasting symbol of the community built.
- Budget limitations led to the now-signature “versatility” in garments—pieces that transformed or styled differently for men and women.
Diesel: Rebranding, Reconnection & Democratization (27:13–38:18)
- Arrival at Diesel:
- Martens recalls Diesel’s 1990s-2000s “provocative, desirable” DNA and its drift into a “midlife crisis” by the time of his arrival.
- Key move: Resetting the brand around archive-focused design and a clear manifesto.
“The biggest thing I did was resetting the whole thing…remembering everybody why Diesel was big in the first place.” (28:35)
- Mentorship and Brand Values:
- Credits Francesca Bellettini for teaching him to always “stay true” to the company’s founding values, a lesson applied to both Y/Project and Diesel.
- Diesel’s revitalization focused on joy, cheekiness, and a return to archival hero pieces, supported by a brand “bible” and new manifesto.
- Difficult Choices:
- Martens removed Diesel’s problematic Mohican logo, replacing it with the “oval D” to align with contemporary values and brand heritage.
- Partnership with Renzo Rosso:
- Found it energizing to work with Diesel’s founder, whom Martens describes as both “genius” and a kindred spirit.
“It’s like having your fairy godmother always somewhere flying around you.” (34:42)
- Martens is Diesel’s first creative director overseeing all categories, leading an expansive, global team but sometimes feeling “quite lonely” in the role.
- Found it energizing to work with Diesel’s founder, whom Martens describes as both “genius” and a kindred spirit.
Fashion Shows as Brand Catalysts & Community Building (38:18–45:27)
- Shows for Awareness:
- Though Runway collections are a small share of Diesel’s revenue, Martens believes shows are vital:
“It accelerates the awareness of the brand and the brand direction you want to go to.” (39:11)
- Though Runway collections are a small share of Diesel’s revenue, Martens believes shows are vital:
- Democratic Fashion Experiences:
- Martens prioritizes community building, inclusivity, and even social activism through show concepts—e.g., distributing free condoms to address HIV awareness.
- Example: The recent show repurposed a massive blow-up doll (Guinness record-scale) as a collaborative global graffiti artwork, exemplifying universal creative energy.
“The art direction of that show was done by everybody in the world…and all of that was like the biggest common street art piece ever made.” (43:02)
Diesel SS26: The "Egg Hunt" Show Concept Revealed (45:27–49:44)
- Innovation for Spring/Summer 2026:
- Breaking from tradition, Martens reveals the next Diesel show will be a public, city-wide “egg hunt.”
- Models will appear in Milan inside “big crystal eggs” placed at diverse locations—bars, churches, clubs—reflecting community diversity.
- Anyone can join; the first to find all eggs win bespoke pieces from the collection.
- Community hubs will offer free food, drinks, and music, further democratizing the brand’s appeal.
- Martens’ intent: To include everyone, avoid the exclusivity of typical fashion shows, and “celebrate life.”
“I think it’s kind of cute…it’s another way to not forget…you are a democracy at heart. You’re talking to the community, and this is why you’re strong.” (48:40)
- Breaking from tradition, Martens reveals the next Diesel show will be a public, city-wide “egg hunt.”
Maison Margiela: Stewarding Icons & Creative Expectations (49:44–52:25)
- New Role at Margiela:
- Martens describes the gravity of following both Martin Margiela and John Galliano:
“It’s extremely humbling and extremely stressful…to be part of that story and…respect them.” (50:01)
- Acknowledges Margiela’s lasting influence and his responsibility to “find [his] own way” while remaining true to the house’s ethos.
- Martens describes the gravity of following both Martin Margiela and John Galliano:
The Pressure Cooker of Modern Fashion (52:25–57:01)
- Social Media & the Fashion “Hunger Games”:
- Martens articulates the existential pressure facing creative directors in a season where social media commentary rapidly shapes narratives:
“You’re not getting judged by professionals only…you’re getting judged by 18 year old kids on TikTok…It becomes the Hunger Games.” (52:33)
- Viral negativity—from uninformed or influential voices—can impact business, creating an intense, often joyless environment:
“…You know you’re going to get slaughter day after another…all your amazing work…killed by sometimes really irrelevant people…” (53:48)
- Martens articulates the existential pressure facing creative directors in a season where social media commentary rapidly shapes narratives:
- A Plea for Process & Patience:
- Both Ahmed and Martens call for patience and room to grow:
“The beauty of fashion is it’s a process and it’s a buildup…This is not happening at one show; this is happening in three, four, five shows. So we need to respect that and celebrate that.” (56:34)
- Both Ahmed and Martens call for patience and room to grow:
Quotes & Memorable Moments
- On Bruges:
“It’s like Disneyland...reality is completely not the truth.” (05:08 — Glenn Martens)
- On Fashion’s Post-Social Media Era:
“2025—a creative director has to be a socialite, has to be the king of social media...so many more things that all my colleagues and me have to do, which is outside of that runway.” (56:01 — Glenn Martens)
- On Fashion’s Purpose:
“The whole beauty of fashion is that we have to make people happy. That’s the main reason why this industry exists.” (17:07 — Glenn Martens)
- On Scarcity & Creativity:
“Through this, of course, scarcity of budget or resources, we managed to do something quite unique. And that became…the language of the brand.” (24:03 — Glenn Martens)
- On the “Hunger Games” Pressure:
“Social media…has turned fashion into the Hunger Games…all your amazing work…killed by sometimes really irrelevant people which actually have no idea what they stand for.” (53:48 — Glenn Martens)
Key Timestamps
- 03:20 – Martens on his Bruges childhood
- 07:45 – Transitioning from classic to edgy designer
- 12:42 – Lessons from his eponymous label
- 21:50 – The story of Y/Project under Martens
- 27:13 – Arriving at Diesel – resetting the brand
- 34:40 – Relationship with Diesel founder Renzo Rosso
- 39:02 – Why Diesel needs fashion shows
- 45:32 – Diesel SS26’s “egg hunt” show preview
- 49:44 – Navigating two creative director roles (Diesel & Margiela)
- 52:25 – Social media and the Hunger Games analogy
- 56:34 – A call for patience as designers develop their vision
Tone
The conversation is candid, warm, and marked by Martens’ European wit and honesty. There is playful self-deprecation, creative exuberance, and an undercurrent of urgency about the “instant judgment” era. Glenn Martens comes across as both a thoughtful craftsman and a leader acutely aware of the fashion industry’s pressures and joys.
Takeaway
Glenn Martens champions creativity rooted in process, authenticity, and joy, while illuminating the profound challenges designers face in the relentless, judgment-saturated age of social media. His story is both a testament to resourcefulness and a plea for the fashion world—and its audience—to rediscover patience and depth.
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