The Business of Fashion Podcast
Episode: In Paris, Hellos, Goodbyes and Waiting For Creative Change
Release Date: July 11, 2025
Hosts: Imran Ahmed (Founder and CEO of The Business of Fashion) and Tim Blanks
1. Seasonal Review: A Dynamic Paris Couture Week
[00:57]
Imran Ahmed opens the episode by setting the stage for a comprehensive seasonal review amidst the bustling atmosphere of Paris Couture Week. He highlights the convergence of significant debuts and heartfelt farewells, mentioning key designers such as Jonathan Anderson at Dior, Michael Ryder at Celine, Glenn Martens at Maison Margiela, Rick Owens, and Demna’s final show for Balenciaga.
[02:45]
Tim Blanks shares his experience at the Dior show, noting the extreme climate control measures taken to protect priceless Chardin paintings borrowed from prestigious galleries. He comments, “...it was so hot in there, I was feeling for the Chardin's as I was feeling for myself as well.” This anecdote underscores the meticulous preparations and the sometimes overlooked spectator experience during high-profile fashion shows.
2. Jonathan Anderson's Dual Influence: Dior and JW Anderson
[03:05]
The discussion shifts to Jonathan Anderson's multifaceted role as both the creative force behind Dior and his personal brand, JW Anderson. Tim Blanks observes, “...Dior is like a performance for him, you know, like a role. And JW Anderson is the real Jonathan, his authentic self.”
[04:26]
Imran delves into Anderson's innovative retail installation at Galerie Joseph in Paris, praising its immersive design that offers a glimpse into Anderson's creative vision. Tim adds, “It was like being inside somebody else's head in a way that you never ever get to do in fashion.”
[06:03]
Tim highlights Jonathan Anderson's strategic approach to managing expectations amid a rapidly changing luxury market, remarking, “Give me time.” This strategy reflects Anderson's broader vision to balance Dior's legacy with his personal creative endeavors.
3. Pricing Pressures and Market Accessibility
[07:44]
The hosts discuss the escalating price points in luxury fashion, with Tim noting, “...one of those coats is apparently £200,000 or something.” Imran counters by highlighting that high-end customers are still actively investing in luxury items, even placing substantial orders for future delivery.
[08:49]
Imran raises concerns about the sustainability of current pricing strategies, questioning the affordability for aspirational customers and suggesting that the industry may need a “reality check.” Tim agrees, indicating that luxury brands are beginning to reevaluate their product architecture to address the bloated middle tier of the traditional luxury pyramid.
4. Jonathan Anderson's Retail Philosophy and Storytelling
[14:03]
Tim Blanks elaborates on Anderson's new store concepts, emphasizing the blend of art, functionality, and personal narrative. He praises the store’s curated items, stating, “...everything in that store is so loaded with a story.”
[16:45]
Imran adds that Anderson's approach signals a shift towards more personal storytelling and impeccably curated items in the luxury market, potentially setting a new standard for authenticity and customer engagement.
5. Rick Owens’ Evolution and Inclusive Menswear
[21:23]
The conversation turns to Rick Owens' latest menswear presentation, with Tim expressing admiration for Owens' ability to scale his brand without compromising his unique vision. He describes the show as “elemental” and praises the consistency and evolution of Owens' work.
[23:14]
Imran highlights Owens' commitment to inclusivity, noting his efforts to create spaces where unconventional beauty standards are celebrated. Tim concurs, referencing Owens' iconic “Kiss boots” and their cultural impact, likening them to the “Stan Smith trainer of our days.”
6. Maison Margiela's New Chapter Under Glenn Martens
[28:59]
Glenn Martens' transition from Diesel to Maison Margiela is a focal point, with Tim lauding Martens as "the future" and praising his mastery of fabric treatments. He remarks, “...when their actuality meets the level of their ambition.”
[32:30]
Imran probes the continuity between Martin Margiela’s legacy and Martens' vision, to which Tim responds by highlighting the faithful adoption of Margiela’s aesthetic elements, such as proportion and upcycling. Tim states, “If you looked at one of those outfits, you would have said Martin Margiela.”
7. Celine's Reinvention with Michael Ryder
[35:48]
The discussion shifts to Michael Ryder's takeover at Celine, succeeding Phoebe Philo and Hedi Slimane. Tim expresses optimism about Ryder’s leadership, noting his approachable persona and the positive industry reception. He mentions, “I actually thought he did an extremely good job at Saline...”
[38:01]
Imran emphasizes the strategic importance of maintaining Celine’s product-led legacy while allowing Ryder to infuse his own creativity. He observes, “The styling of that show is where a lot of the creativity was...”
8. Couture Season: Final Farewells and Future Directions
[40:02]
The hosts reflect on significant departures in the couture sector, including Daniel Roseberry at Schiaparelli, interim shows at Chanel, Armani’s latest presentations, and Demna’s final Balenciaga show. Tim describes Armani’s collection as “very linear” but expresses hope for future creative ventures.
[42:45]
Imran discusses Demna’s farewell to Balenciaga, noting his intention to inject personal codes into new ventures like Gucci. He remarks on the "retrospective" nature of Demna's final Balenciaga show, signaling the end of an era and the anticipation of fresh directions in September’s fashion landscape.
9. Closing Remarks: Anticipation for Upcoming Changes
[44:59]
Imran and Tim wrap up the episode by acknowledging the significant industry shifts and expressing excitement for the forthcoming changes slated for October. They humorously attribute their slightly inarticulate discussion to the heat, leaving listeners with a light-hearted farewell.
Notable Quotes:
- Tim Blanks [02:08]: “...drop by drop, Fiji water is filtered through volcanic rock 1600 miles away from the nearest continent...”
- Imran Ahmed [07:44]: “Luxury always worked in this pyramid where you had... very, very high end customer spending at the top...”
- Tim Blanks [14:13]: “...it was hyper aesthetic. There was a really fantastic twist on function for stuff.”
- Imran Ahmed [23:14]: “Rick makes people like that feel like they're basically... they're not alone.”
- Tim Blanks [28:59]: “Glenn Martens is the future for years... he's just a quiet force.”
- Imran Ahmed [38:01]: “Celine as a brand in the post Phoebe era became like a really, really desirable product led brand.”
This episode provides an insightful exploration of the current state and future directions of the luxury fashion industry, featuring in-depth analyses of pivotal designers and their evolving brands amidst a backdrop of significant market shifts.