Summary of “Jacquemus: A Coming of Age Story” – The Business of Fashion Podcast

Episode Overview

In the November 22, 2024 episode of The Business of Fashion Podcast, host Imran Ahmed engages in an insightful conversation with Simon Porte Jacquemus, the visionary founder and CEO of the Jacquemus brand. Celebrated for his playful, surrealist designs inspired by the French New Wave and the sunny landscapes of southern France, Jacquemus has built an independent fashion empire boasting over €200 million in annual turnover. This episode delves into Simon’s journey, his strategies for maintaining an independent brand in a competitive industry, his innovative approaches to fashion shows and retail, the challenges posed by the recent luxury slowdown, and his search for investors to fuel global expansion.

1. Introduction and Brand Journey

Imran Ahmed opens the discussion by highlighting Jacquemus's meteoric rise since his brand burst onto the fashion scene in 2009. Building an independent business with a unique aesthetic, Jacquemus has staged fashion shows in unconventional locations like lavender fields and Chateau Versailles, garnering the kind of attention typically reserved for pop stars. Recent achievements include opening flagship stores in New York and London and managing rumors of being shortlisted for Chanel’s Creative Director position.

Simon Porte Jacquemus reflects on his brand’s visibility:

“I need to be visible. I need to make fun things. And I think there is a part of me that I love that.”
(01:08)

2. Building Visibility as an Independent Brand

Simon attributes the brand's success to his relentless pursuit of visibility, even with limited resources. Starting with just €1,500, he leveraged creativity and grassroots marketing to make a significant impact.

“I started with a thousand and thousand five hundred euro... I designed my website, I published it on Facebook. And a week after, I got called by the press because it went viral.”
(03:23)

His early exposure strategies, such as staging a strike outside a Dior show with his best friend to showcase his collection, set the foundation for the brand's recognizable presence.

3. Creative Processes and Fashion Shows

Jacquemus emphasizes the importance of fun and accessibility in his designs and presentations. Eschewing traditional fashion system constraints, he opts for unique venues that reflect his personal connection to the Mediterranean and southern France.

“I think it's going to be one of the answers of today. From my side, it's having fun. I think having fun is being creative is going one step aside and it's playing with the system.”
(07:29)

His commitment to creating immersive environments is evident in his meticulously chosen show locations, such as a precisely selected 360-degree lavender field inspired by a David Hockney painting.

4. Retail Expansion and Store Experience

Transitioning from runway innovation to retail, Jacquemus has strategically opened stores in prestigious locations like Avenue Montaigne and Bond Street. Unlike the often intimidating luxury stores, he aims to create a welcoming, home-like atmosphere that embodies the Jacquemus lifestyle.

“When I design the store and partner with oma, I want them to feel like a home, like a South France home... I hope people don't feel this way [intimidated].”
(11:17)

By infusing elements reminiscent of a Provencal home, such as old beds and linen displays, Jacquemus distinguishes his stores from conventional luxury retail environments.

5. Balancing Business Management and Creativity

As the CEO, Simon balances the creative aspects of his brand with rigorous business management. He prioritizes maintaining financial stability to ensure the brand’s sustainability and independence.

“I wake up every morning looking at the sales... because I want that my work becomes something real and realistic.”
(12:13)

This dual focus has been pivotal in scaling the business while preserving its creative integrity.

6. Impact of Market Slowdown and Challenges

The recent luxury market slowdown, marked by widespread discounting and aggressive sales by competitors, posed significant challenges for Jacquemus. Despite these hurdles, Simon acknowledges the strength of their e-tail and brick-and-mortar shops.

“This was super tough because even some partner, it was like, you know, and you can't control their price... being independent and not having the power of like a big group, it's... that's what's tougher this year.”
(13:45)

Navigating these challenges highlighted the vulnerabilities of independent brands in volatile markets.

7. Seeking Investors and Future Plans

Simon discusses his ongoing search for minority investors to support an ambitious global retail expansion. He emphasizes the importance of finding partners who share the brand’s values and vision.

“A long term partnership first, like it means like a beautiful value that I share... I want to have this value in front of me that is share your values.”
(18:57)

He explores various investment options, preferring strategic partners with industry expertise over private equity, which often demands rapid returns.

8. Speculation on a Potential Role at Chanel

Addressing rumors of being a candidate for Chanel’s Creative Director, Simon admits the idea is intriguing but acknowledges the immense commitment required to lead a major fashion house.

“My week are really busy even picking like the furniture inside the store... it's like, I feel my job is like, infinity, in a way. It's insane.”
(21:35)

Imran Ahmed shares skepticism, noting that Simon’s devotion to his own brand makes such a transition unlikely.

9. Advice to Emerging Designers

In concluding the episode, Simon offers valuable advice to young designers navigating the fashion industry:

“Listen yourself, I think. Listen yourself and don't lie because people feel it. Don't force yourself to do social if you're not an expert. If you are super comfortable, do it. And try to be visible... But being real and tell your own story.”
(23:40)

He underscores the importance of authenticity, visibility, and building a genuine connection with one’s community.

Key Takeaways

• Visibility is Crucial: Simon’s unwavering focus on making his brand visible from the outset was instrumental in Jacquemus’s success.
• Creativity and Fun: Embracing creativity and maintaining a sense of fun sets Jacquemus apart in a competitive industry.
• Authentic Retail Experience: By creating welcoming, home-like stores, Jacquemus challenges the traditional luxury retail model.
• Balancing Act: Successfully managing both the creative and business sides is essential for sustaining an independent brand.
• Navigating Challenges: Independent brands face significant challenges during market downturns, particularly regarding pricing and competition.
• Strategic Investments: Finding the right investor, one who aligns with the brand’s values, is critical for future growth.
• Authenticity Matters: Emerging designers should prioritize authenticity and storytelling to build a loyal community.

Notable Quotes

• On Visibility:

  “I need to be visible. I need to make fun things. And I think there is a part of me that I love that.”
  (01:08)

• On Creativity:

  “I think having fun is being creative is going one step aside and it's playing with the system.”
  (07:29)

• On Store Design:

  “I want them to feel like a home, like a South France home... So I hope people don't feel this way [intimidated].”
  (11:17)

• On Investment:

  “A long term partnership first... I want to have this value in front of me that is share your values.”
  (18:57)

• Advice to Designers:

  “Listen yourself and don't lie because people feel it... try to be visible but real and tell your own story.”
  (23:40)

Conclusion

Simon Porte Jacquemus’s journey is a testament to the power of creativity, visibility, and authenticity in building a successful independent fashion brand. Despite facing industry challenges and market slowdowns, Jacquemus remains committed to his vision, continuously seeking innovative ways to engage his community and expand his global presence. His insights offer valuable lessons for emerging designers and entrepreneurs aspiring to make their mark in the fashion world.