The Business of Fashion Podcast: Satoshi Kuwata Is on a Lifelong Search for Balance

Episode Details:

• Title: Satoshi Kuwata Is on a Lifelong Search for Balance
• Host: Imran Ahmed, Founder and CEO of The Business of Fashion
• Guest: Satoshi Kuwata, Founder and Designer of Setu
• Release Date: April 4, 2025

1. Introduction to Satoshi Kuwata

Imran Ahmed opens the episode by introducing Satoshi Kuwata, highlighting his extensive background in fashion. Satoshi’s journey includes honing his skills on Savile Row, studying at Central Saint Martins, and working with prestigious brands like Givenchy, Eden, and Golden Goose. His brand, Setu, embodies a harmonious blend of Japanese and Western aesthetics, emphasizing precision tailoring influenced by the traditional kimono.

[00:04] Imran Ahmed: "Japanese designer Satoshi Kuwata created the brand Setu, a deeply personal response to his passion for blending Japanese and Western ideas."

2. Early Life and Influences in Japan

Satoshi delves into his upbringing in a rural Japanese village, surrounded by nature and traditional culture. His early exposure to fashion came from his aunt, a fashion designer at Takashimaya who worked with Pierre Cardin licenses. This dual influence of Western fashion and traditional Japanese attire, like the kimono, played a pivotal role in shaping his aesthetic balance.

[00:48] Satoshi Kuwata: "I have this kind of balance between the business side of fashion and the poetic restraint of the kimono."

3. The Role of the Kimono in Satoshi’s Design Philosophy

Satoshi discusses the historical significance of the kimono in Japan and its rare presence in daily wear today. He reflects on how the kimono's two-dimensional patterns contrast with the three-dimensional structure of Western garments. This interplay of tradition and modernity informs his design approach, striving to maintain cultural authenticity while embracing contemporary fashion trends.

[05:51] Satoshi Kuwata: "Kimono has this power to make your day. It’s not the most comfortable, but it's a way to feel connected to Japanese culture."

4. Education and Transition to Western Fashion

Choosing to pursue formal education, Satoshi attended Central Saint Martins (CSM) in London, aiming to master Western tailoring. Despite initial challenges, including limited English proficiency, he secured a position at Savile Row’s esteemed Huntsman. His time at CSM was marked by a tension between embracing Western creativity and retaining his Japanese heritage.

[17:19] Satoshi Kuwata: "I couldn't speak a word of English when I arrived in the UK. Harry Potter was my teacher."

5. Experience on Savile Row

Working at Huntsman on Savile Row immersed Satoshi in the heart of traditional British tailoring. He describes the meticulous craftsmanship and the exclusive clientele, including royal families and celebrities. This experience reinforced his understanding of quality and business acumen in the fashion industry.

[19:58] Satoshi Kuwata: "Working for Huntsman is like opening the smallest door to the hardest things to get into. It’s the best of the best."

6. Navigating Cultural and Technical Differences in Pattern Cutting

Satoshi contrasts Western and Japanese approaches to pattern cutting. While Western tailoring focuses on the structural alignment with the body’s bone structure, Japanese tailoring emphasizes the garment’s exterior. This fundamental difference informs his unique design perspective, allowing for a blend of form and function.

[27:22] Satoshi Kuwata: "Western Savile Row looks at body construction with bones, while Japan focuses on the garment exterior."

7. Building and Leading Setu

Launching Setu during the pandemic, Satoshi aimed to create a brand that embodies meaningful and sustainable fashion. He emphasizes the importance of team dynamics, fostering a competitive yet comfortable environment. His leadership philosophy centers on designing not just garments but also a collaborative and supportive company culture.

[43:09] Imran Ahmed: "You are designing not just garments, but also the beautiful relationships within your team."

[43:58] Satoshi Kuwata: "I’m designing a company as well as designing beautiful relationships. It’s about teamwork and creating a space where people feel comfortable yet competitive."

8. Overcoming Challenges as an Independent Designer

Satoshi candidly discusses the pressures and challenges of running his own brand. From economic uncertainties like tariffs to maintaining creative integrity amidst growth pressures, he maintains a positive outlook. His approach involves continuous learning, adaptability, and leveraging his team’s strengths to navigate obstacles.

[53:24] Satoshi Kuwata: "I take every challenge as an opportunity. Fashion is about teamwork, including buyers, consumers, and journalists."

9. Future Vision for Setu and Advice for Aspiring Designers

Looking ahead, Satoshi envisions Setu’s slow and sustainable growth, expanding beyond fashion into lifestyle products while maintaining cultural authenticity. He advises young designers to listen actively, embrace diverse ideas, and foster collaborative environments to cultivate success.

[58:43] Satoshi Kuwata: "Listen to people. Having your own idea doesn’t mean denying others’. Being a good listener is the quickest way to be successful."

10. Closing Reflections and Final Thoughts

Imran Ahmed concludes the conversation by commending Satoshi’s philosophical approach to fashion and leadership. He highlights the importance of Satoshi’s mindset in overcoming industry challenges and fostering a resilient, innovative brand.

[57:02] Imran Ahmed: "Pressure is a privilege. Your clarity of mind and quiet confidence are a beacon for the industry."

Key Takeaways:

• Cultural Synthesis: Satoshi seamlessly blends traditional Japanese elements with Western tailoring, creating a unique and balanced aesthetic.
• Leadership Philosophy: Emphasizes collaborative teamwork, fostering a competitive yet supportive environment.
• Sustainable Growth: Advocates for slow, meaningful expansion over rapid scaling, ensuring the brand’s integrity and sustainability.
• Resilience and Adaptability: Maintains a positive outlook amidst challenges, viewing each obstacle as an opportunity for growth.

Notable Quotes:

• Satoshi Kuwata: "Setu is not just about fashion; it’s about creating meaningful experiences and sustainable practices."

  • [58:43]

• Imran Ahmed: "Designing a company is as important as designing clothes. It’s about creating beautiful relationships."

  • [43:09]

• Satoshi Kuwata: "A good listener is the quickest way to be successful."

  • [58:43]

Conclusion

Satoshi Kuwata’s journey is a testament to the harmonious blend of cultural heritage and modern innovation. His dedication to balance, both in design and business, offers valuable insights for emerging designers navigating the complex landscape of the global fashion industry. Through Setu, Satoshi continues to redefine sustainable and culturally rich fashion, inspiring a new generation of creatives worldwide.

Produced by: Olivia Davies and Eric Brea
Edited by: The Business of Fashion Podcast Team