Podcast Summary

The Business of Fashion Podcast

Episode: The Best of The BoF Podcast: Clare Waight Keller on Finding Opportunity in Discomfort
Date: August 29, 2025
Host: Imran Ahmed
Guest: Clare Waight Keller

Episode Overview

This episode is a deep-dive conversation with Clare Waight Keller, newly appointed Creative Director at Uniqlo, whose wide-ranging career—from Birmingham to Uniqlo—has been marked by creative risk-taking and finding growth in discomfort. Clare shares how moving through diverse cultural and creative environments—from the high fashion houses of Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Gucci, Chloé, Givenchy to global retail giant Uniqlo—shaped her approach to creativity, leadership, and the fashion industry, especially as a female leader.

Key Discussion Points and Insights

1. Early Years – Birmingham Roots and Artistic Discovery

• Growing up in Birmingham, an industrial UK city with a strong music and fashion scene, profoundly influenced Clare's sense of identity and creativity.
• The vibrant youth subcultures—punks, skinheads, goths, and new romantics—nurtured her fascination with self-expression through fashion.

“There was something that totally captivated me about that. And I always loved making clothes and... through art school, made me gravitate even more towards [fashion] industry because they just seem like the most interesting people. I wanted to be part of that.” — Clare Waight Keller (04:10)

2. Art School and Professional Foundation

• Clare attended Ravensbourne for its strong art and textiles program, then specialized in knitwear at the Royal College of Art.
• Her technical expertise in knitwear and her creative approach set her apart, landing her a coveted first role at Calvin Klein.

“At the time, I was one of maybe only about four people who got employed after the degree finished. And I think it's because I had a unique skill that not many other people have.” (10:51)

3. Defining Years in American Fashion: Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren

• Immersed in Calvin Klein’s “prime time” era, Clare learned firsthand about the intersection of commercial reality and creative innovation, including merchandising, pricing, and the power of marketing.
• Her move to Ralph Lauren put her into a fledgling menswear team, where she gained exposure to Italian luxury tailoring and the minutiae of fabric development.

“Calvin about crepe and drape, and Ralph about cotton and wools and sort of luxury textures. And so in two completely different worlds, they have a very strong language through fabric.” (18:15)

4. The Drive to Embrace Discomfort and Change

• Throughout her career, Clare intentionally chose roles that took her out of her comfort zone, leveraging those moments to learn and grow.

“I always want to do something that’s going to take me right out the box and put me in a really uncomfortable place. Because I think that’s what... brings a great sense of drive for me.” (19:34)

5. The Tom Ford Era at Gucci

• Joining Gucci in its buzz-building transformation under Tom Ford, Clare was part of a tiny, agile design team alongside future icons Christopher Bailey and Frida Giannini.
• Tom Ford’s focus on total look and attitude and the integration of accessories into collections left a lasting impact.

“He described [the Gucci woman] as date night ready 24/7... Tom was so much about the attitude of things and he really wanted a look for the girl.” (26:40)

6. Leading as a Woman in Fashion

• Taking the reins at Chloé marked her transition into top creative leadership, shaped by her belief in the unique sensibility women bring to womenswear.
• Clare discusses industry barriers for women—namely, the inflexible structure and cultural expectations that disadvantage those seeking to balance family and career.

“I very quickly realized in my career that [stepping away] was just not an option. I can’t step off the bus. I’ve got to keep on it. And so I had to make my family work around my career.” (32:18)
“I think there is a sensibility that comes from having a different approach to fashion and a sort of different, I guess, intelligence of fashion. It’s more sensitive and I don’t think sensitive means less powerful.” (33:00)

7. Chloé, Givenchy, and Evolution of Creative Direction

• At Chloé, Clare’s focus was on reclaiming the brand’s feminine DNA, re-imagining accessories, and building a strong bond with the consumer.

“… the attitude of the accessories really brought the kind of Chloe girl together. And so I think people then really bought into those heavily because it just expressed so much of that sort of personality of the Chloe girl.” (37:13)

• At Givenchy, she pivoted toward couture but found the transition from Riccardo Tisci's streetwear legacy to her own vision challenging.

8. The Leap to Uniqlo – Global Scale and Japanese Culture

• Moving to Uniqlo as Creative Director represented a “different universe”—requiring her to adapt from luxury's small-batch production to massive scale, while still focusing on innovation and quality.

“Understanding the scale, that was just extraordinary. … Even now, I will finish something as a prototype and it will go through six weeks of wear testing through people in the office before we put it into production.” (47:06)

• Clare found the meticulous, detail-oriented Japanese design culture refreshing and inspiring.

“For me, it’s the meticulous pride that they have in everything that they do. ... They don’t show you anything that they’re not proud of.” (48:51)

9. Reflecting on Fashion’s Current Flux

• Clare and Imran discuss the disruptive moment in the fashion industry, with high-profile appointments across high street and luxury brands, and the shrinking "middle market."

“I think where people really are interested in building their wardrobe right now is the high and at the low. And I think the middle is almost the most difficult area.” (53:25)

10. Advice for Young Designers and Women

• Encourages embracing discomfort and challenge as fuel for learning and growth.
• Stresses the need for more women to push into creative leadership roles.

“Don’t be afraid of a challenge and being uncomfortable in something and having to learn on the ground running. … We need more women in the market. So I would say really jump in head first and go for it.” (54:49)

Memorable Quotes & Timestamps

• On finding comfort in discomfort:
  “Those moments when you are pushed to your boundaries and you... need to find quickly how to do things. Sort of a survival instinct I suppose. Brings a great sense of drive for me. I really love that idea of being sort of uncomfortable with what I’m working with because it makes me learn quickly.” — Clare Waight Keller (01:42)

• On early influences:
  “There was something that totally captivated me about that... I always loved making clothes and sort of knitting and doing things like that. So it sort of, through art school, made me gravitate even more towards that industry.” — Clare Waight Keller (04:10)

• On Tom Ford at Gucci:
  “Tom was so much about the attitude of things and he really wanted a look for the girl... Sexy Jetson is the best way to describe it, I mean, that girl definitely didn’t sort of take the bath… He described it as date night ready 24/7.” — Clare Waight Keller (26:40)

• On being a woman at the top:
  “I’ve got to keep on it. And so I had to make my family work around my career because I knew the minute I went off, even a season out in fashion can put you back a year, and people look at you differently.” — Clare Waight Keller (32:18)

• On learning from discomfort:
  “I think don’t be afraid of a challenge and being uncomfortable in something and having to learn on the ground running. I think that’s actually how you really get knowledge and become quite valuable...” — Clare Waight Keller (54:49)

Notable Timestamps

• Growing up in Birmingham and subculture influence: 04:00–06:32
• Knitwear focus at Ravensbourne/Royal College: 08:00–11:14
• Start at Calvin Klein: 11:20–14:35
• Lessons from Ralph Lauren: 17:15–19:25
• Working with Tom Ford at Gucci: 20:41–27:28
• Reflections on female creative leadership: 30:18–34:22
• Chloé years—brand DNA and accessories: 34:57–37:39
• Givenchy and the couture pivot: 41:55–43:38
• Transition to Uniqlo and Japanese culture: 44:26–49:55
• State of fashion’s high/low market split: 53:13–54:31
• Advice for young women designers: 54:49–55:20

Tone and Language

• Clare is candid, direct, and grounded in her storytelling, sharing both successes and setbacks.
• The exchange is thoughtful and reflective, with Imran Ahmed drawing out lessons relevant for aspiring designers, entrepreneurs, and industry observers.

Conclusion

Clare Waight Keller’s journey epitomizes using discomfort as a catalyst for growth and creativity, bridging cultures and market segments while championing the power of female leadership in fashion. Her move to Uniqlo signals a new chapter in high–low fashion innovation, setting a benchmark for both quality and inclusivity in the global wardrobe.