The Business of Fashion Podcast: "Thom Bettridge Says Viral Magazine Covers Are Only Sugar Highs"

Release Date: March 21, 2025
Host: Imran Ahmed
Guest: Tom Bettridge, Editor-in-Chief of ID Magazine
Podcast: The Business of Fashion Podcast

1. Introduction to ID Magazine's Revitalization

Imran Ahmed opens the episode by delving into the storied history of ID Magazine, founded in 1980 by Terry and Tricia Jones. The magazine has been a trailblazer in blending street style with high fashion, always with a forward-looking perspective. Despite facing challenges, including the 2023 bankruptcy of its former parent company, Vice, ID Magazine is now under new stewardship. Karlie Kloss's Bedford Media has taken the helm, appointing Tom Bettridge as the new Editor-in-Chief. Tom's mission is clear: to reestablish ID as a cultural institution that prioritizes community engagement over fleeting viral trends.

2. Tom Bettridge's Journey into Fashion Media

[02:08] Tom shares his early passion for creating magazines, which he first explored during his college years while studying philosophy. This foundational experience ignited his enduring interest in media and storytelling, particularly within the dynamic world of fashion.

Tom Bettridge: "I was the editor of the philosophy magazine in college, and making magazines became a passion that extended beyond my academic studies." [02:44]

3. The Endurance of Magazines in a Digital Age

Imran and Tom discuss the resilience of magazines despite predictions of their decline. Tom attributes this endurance to the essential role of magazines as curatorial voices amidst the overwhelming noise of social media and digital content.

Tom Bettridge: "There's so much noise, especially now with AI, and you need a voice that can make sense of things and decide what's important." [04:23]

He emphasizes that magazines provide a curated perspective that helps readers navigate the vast amounts of information available, making them more relevant than ever.

4. Experiences at 032C Magazine

Tom recounts his tenure at 032C in Berlin, where he immersed himself in various roles, from social media management to writing newsletters. This multifaceted experience taught him the importance of versatility and hands-on involvement in every aspect of magazine production.

Tom Bettridge: "At 032C, everyone was like the butcher, the baker, the candlestick maker—getting hands-on with everything was invaluable." [05:27]

He also discusses the magazine's foray into merchandise, which underscored the significance of building a dedicated community over merely chasing raw audience numbers.

5. Crafting Cultural Narratives at Interview Magazine

Transitioning to Interview Magazine, Tom highlights the publication's deep cultural roots and its unique interview format, inspired by Andy Warhol's legacy. This role allowed him to engage with iconic figures and contribute to a publication steeped in artistic and cultural dialogue.

Tom Bettridge: "Interview was like being in dialogue with Andy Warhol's legacy, thinking about how he would interact with today's platforms like TikTok or OnlyFans." [08:25]

He reflects on the magazine's ability to capture the essence of emerging culture, positioning it as a bridge between fashion and broader societal trends.

6. Navigating the Fast-Paced World of Highsnobiety

At Highsnobiety, Tom experienced a drastic shift to a purely digital environment with an intense content production pace. This role honed his leadership skills, teaching him to trust and empower his team amidst the demands of constant content creation.

Tom Bettridge: "I had to learn to be more of a coach than an editor of editors, cultivating a team that could excel without my direct oversight." [14:59]

He acknowledges the benefits of being in tune with the fast-evolving digital landscape while recognizing the challenges of maintaining depth and quality amidst the rush.

7. Embracing Data-Driven Creativity at Essence

Tom's move to Essence, a youth-focused e-commerce retailer, marked a significant shift towards integrating content with commercial objectives. At Essence, he discovered the power of quality content in building brand loyalty and enhancing customer engagement.

Tom Bettridge: "Making great content made us part of someone's digital diet, fostering loyalty with the brand." [18:22]

He draws parallels between a hotel’s coffee shop attracting daily visitors and Essence’s content serving as a consistent touchpoint for customers, reinforcing brand presence beyond immediate purchases.

8. Reimagining ID Magazine: Vision and Strategy

Upon joining ID Magazine, Tom was captivated by the founders' respect for the publication's legacy and their forward-thinking vision. His strategy centers on repositioning fashion as a medium to explore broader cultural narratives, rather than solely focusing on brand portfolios.

Tom Bettridge: "ID is a fashion magazine about the rest of the world." [27:40]

He aims to create a chaotic yet cohesive aesthetic that mirrors the internet's fluidity, emphasizing community-building over transient viral moments.

9. The First Issue and Community-Centric Approach

For the relaunch’s inaugural issue, Tom spearheaded a massive casting campaign to select a cover star who embodies the present moment and resonates with ID’s community-focused ethos. This approach underscores his belief in showcasing individuals who reflect contemporary societal narratives rather than relying on pre-existing celebrity fame.

Tom Bettridge: "We wanted someone who encapsulates the present moment and represents what it means to live today." [34:11]

Tom contrasts this strategy with traditional magazine covers that often prioritize virality over lasting community engagement, emphasizing the importance of building a dedicated readership.

10. Launch Dinner Highlights and Building Legacy Connections

A standout moment during the launch was the Paris Fashion Week dinner hosted by Rick Owens and Michelle Lammy, featuring surprise appearances by figures like ASAP Rocky. This event highlighted the strong alumni network and the enduring relationships forged through ID's legacy, creating a sense of community and continuity.

Tom Bettridge: "There was an amazing alumni association effect that propelled things forward." [39:14]

11. Future Directions and Expanding Digital Presence

Looking ahead, Tom plans to extend ID's aesthetic and editorial vision across multiple digital platforms, including social media, YouTube, and podcasts. The goal is to create a cohesive and immersive brand experience that aligns with contemporary content consumption habits.

Tom Bettridge: "Our first issue is an editorial prototype that we're bringing to life online." [40:24]

He acknowledges the competitive landscape but remains optimistic, believing that a rising tide benefits all players by expanding the overall interest in fashion as a cultural pillar.

12. Overcoming Challenges in a Competitive Media Space

Tom discusses the shift from an "attention era" to a "retention era," where the focus moves from garnering fleeting attention to cultivating sustained engagement. He highlights the importance of building narratives that foster deep connections with the audience, ensuring long-term loyalty over temporary virality.

Tom Bettridge: "We're moving from an attention era to a retention era, focusing on narratives that people are invested in." [46:42]

13. Advice for Aspiring Media Professionals

Concluding the episode, Tom offers invaluable advice to young individuals aspiring to enter the media and publishing industry. He emphasizes the importance of gaining diverse experiences, whether through creating personal projects like fanzines or taking on freelance work, to build a robust foundation for future roles.

Tom Bettridge: "Get as much experience as you possibly can, even if it means making your own fanzine." [47:09]

Notable Quotes

• Tom Bettridge on Viral Covers: "I've worked on viral covers and they can do so much for your exposure as like a small brand, but at the end of the day, it's really like a sugar high." [01:08]

• On the Role of Editors: "You need a voice that can make sense of things and canonize what's important and relevant." [04:23]

• On Building Community: "Magazines are almost about building a community... who are the people that are really invested in you beyond reading something." [06:25]

• On Digital vs. Print: "Print magazine isn't competing with a K-pop group in terms of eyeballs, but with a magazine like ID, you're speaking to a strong self-selected group." [46:42]

Conclusion

This episode of The Business of Fashion Podcast offers an insightful exploration of Tom Bettridge's strategic vision for revitalizing ID Magazine. Through his diverse experiences across prestigious publications and his emphasis on community-building over transient virality, Tom provides a blueprint for creating enduring cultural institutions in the ever-evolving landscape of fashion media.

For more episodes and insights, visit The Business of Fashion Podcast.