The Business of Fashion Podcast: Tim Blanks and Imran Amed Reflect on Autumn/Winter 2025

Release Date: March 14, 2025

Introduction

In this engaging episode of The Business of Fashion Podcast, hosts Tim Blanks and Imran Amed delve into the Autumn/Winter 2025 fashion season. This season marks a significant moment as Tim Blanks participates remotely due to an unfortunate injury, providing a unique perspective compared to the traditional front-row experience. The discussion primarily focuses on the highly anticipated debuts of Heider Ackerman at Tom Ford and Sarah Burton at Givenchy, alongside other boundary-pushing designers exploring themes of eroticism and body consciousness.

Tim Blanks’ Remote Experience

Imran Amed begins by addressing Tim's absence due to his injury:

"[02:05] Tim Blanks: I care because it's a story of human frailty and human stupidity."

Tim recounts the accident that sidelined him from attending Fashion Week in person:

"[02:09] Tim Blanks: I was walking down Bond street, gazing upwards, slack jawed at the Cartier Christmas decorations, and I tripped on a curb and I came down so hard."

Despite his injuries, Tim remained engaged by watching the shows remotely, likening the experience to observing theater or cinema from a distance. He notes the difference between the live, dynamic atmosphere of an in-person show and the "clinical cinematic experience" of online streaming.

Key Debuts: Heider Ackerman at Tom Ford

The debut of Heider Ackerman at Tom Ford was a focal point of the season. Tim highlights the successful collaboration between the two designers:

"[11:10] Tim Blanks: I thought Heider did a wonderful job of doing a Haida Ackerman for Tom Ford collection by honoring the essence of one, but really bringing the dynamism of the new."

Imran shares his firsthand experience attending the show:

"[15:43] Imran Ahmed: I saw Heider come out at the end and give Tom a big hug, which was kind of like such a beautiful moment."

The show was characterized by a blend of sensuality and rigor, maintaining Tom Ford's signature sexualist aesthetic while introducing Heider's sensualist approach. The collaboration was celebrated by attendees, including Domenico De Sole, Tom Ford's original founder CEO:

"[17:18] Tim Blanks: Those designers have very, very passionate constituencies...both houses being made humble with a strong seam of eroticism and rigor."

Sarah Burton at Givenchy: Returning to Roots

Sarah Burton's debut at Givenchy was another highlight. Tim emphasizes her strategic approach to revitalizing the brand:

"[26:12] Tim Blanks: She wanted to go back to first principles. Silhouette, cut, shape. She wanted to go back to very, very, almost ground zero."

Sarah aimed to reconnect with Givenchy's heritage by revisiting original patterns and focusing on refined tailoring. Imran praises the emotional depth and intimacy of her show:

"[19:22] Imran Ahmed: This show just had a real intimacy and emotion that was like a wonderful thing that I know Heider is very good at creating."

Their conversation reveals that Sarah's approach balances Givenchy's storied past with a forward-looking vision, establishing a strong foundation for the brand's future.

The Step and Repeat Phenomenon

A significant portion of the discussion revolves around the "step and repeat" aspect of modern fashion shows. Tim explains how seeing designers' collections on real people before the show affects consumer perception:

"[51:36] Imran Ahmed: As a customer or someone watching online, if the first thing you see is not the show itself, as you see the step and repeat..."

This segment highlights how the step and repeat serves as a bridge between the runway and everyday consumers, showcasing accessible ways to wear the current collections. Tim suggests that designers can leverage this phenomenon to enhance brand engagement:

"[52:05] Imran Ahmed: So that you have the fashion show with your little insight about the Step and Repeat has become two parts."

Other Notable Shows and Designers

Alessandra McQueen at Valentino and Duranlantic stood out as particularly innovative. Tim describes Valentino's show as a blend of intimacy and spectacle:

"[39:23] Tim Blanks: The whole premise of it was just so...intimate by having all these public with people going in and out of the loo."

Meanwhile, Duranlantic's collection was praised for its provocative and playful nature:

"[48:25] Imran Ahmed: Duranlantic was, for me, the standout show of the whole season."

The duo also touches upon Jun Takahashi's Undercover show, appreciating its blend of street and couture elements and its commentary on the lifecycle of clothing.

Emotional Aspects and Design Themes

Tim and Imran explore how this season's shows emphasized emotional depth and sensual themes. They observe a trend where designers are subtly challenging the boundaries of the body, reflecting a deeper exploration of eroticism:

"[01:04] Tim Blanks: Fashion is a very fetishistic art form... It is about fetishizing things, fetishizing beauty and ugliness."

This emotional resonance contrasts with the often superficial spectacle of previous seasons, marking a shift towards more meaningful and intimate fashion narratives.

Conclusion and Future Outlook

Wrapping up, Tim reflects on the successful collaborations and the promising directions of the featured brands:

"[36:56] Tim Blanks: They are very, very devoted to bringing a humanity to what they do... it's going to be a very interesting ride."

Imran echoes this sentiment, acknowledging the immense pressure designers face but remains optimistic about the future of Givenchy and Tom Ford under their new creative leadership.

The episode concludes with mutual appreciation for the deep insights shared, highlighting the unique dynamics brought about by Tim's remote participation.

Notable Quotes

• Tim Blanks at [02:05]:

  "I care because it's a story of human frailty and human stupidity."

• Imran Ahmed at [15:43]:

  "I saw Heider come out at the end and give Tom a big hug, which was kind of like such a beautiful moment."

• Tim Blanks at [26:12]:

  "She wanted to go back to first principles. Silhouette, cut, shape."

• Imran Ahmed at [51:36]:

  "As a customer or someone watching online, if the first thing you see is not the show itself, as you see the step and repeat..."

Key Takeaways

• Remote Participation Insights: Tim Blanks' experience watching Fashion Week remotely offers a new lens through which to appreciate fashion shows, highlighting both the loss and gains of digital viewing.

• Collaborative Success: The partnerships between Heider Ackerman and Tom Ford, as well as Sarah Burton and Givenchy, demonstrate the power of aligning creative visions to revitalize iconic brands.

• Emphasis on Emotion and Sensuality: The Autumn/Winter 2025 season marked a shift towards more emotionally resonant and sensual designs, moving away from mere spectacle.

• Marketing Evolution with Step and Repeat: The integration of step and repeat moments in virtual viewing experiences bridges the gap between runway glamor and everyday consumer accessibility.

• Future Prospects: Both Givenchy and Tom Ford are poised for exciting developments under their new creative leads, promising a blend of heritage and innovation.

This comprehensive summary encapsulates the core discussions and insights from Tim Blanks and Imran Amed's reflection on the Autumn/Winter 2025 fashion season, providing valuable takeaways for fashion enthusiasts and industry professionals alike.