Podcast Summary: The Business of Fashion Podcast

Episode Title: Tracee Ellis Ross: Understanding the Diversity of Humanity is Good Business
Host: Imran Ahmed, Founder and CEO of The Business of Fashion
Release Date: June 20, 2025

Introduction

In this compelling episode of The Business of Fashion Podcast, host Imran Ahmed engages in an insightful conversation with Tracee Ellis Ross, the renowned actress and entrepreneur behind Pattern Beauty. Released on June 20, 2025, the episode delves deep into Tracee's journey from Hollywood to founding a successful hair care brand that celebrates and supports textured hair. Through personal anecdotes, business strategies, and a strong emphasis on diversity, Tracee shares her vision of making diversity not just an ethical choice but also a sound business decision.

Tracee's Personal Journey with Hair

Understanding Self-Acceptance and Early Challenges

Tracee Ellis Ross begins by reflecting on her personal journey with her hair, intertwining it with her path to self-acceptance. She shares poignant memories of her childhood, illustrating the lack of representation and suitable products for natural hair.

Tracee Ellis Ross [00:38]: "Black beauty and textured hair was not being mirrored back as a celebration, but instead it was a problem."

She recounts experiences from her grandmother's home, where traditional conditioning methods like mayonnaise treatments left lasting scents, and the rigorous salon routines that failed to embrace her natural texture. These early challenges highlighted the industry's inadequacies in catering to textured hair, fueling her desire to create a brand that truly understands and supports this community.

Developing a Relationship with Her Hair

During her formative years, particularly while attending boarding school in Switzerland, Tracee had limited access to professional hairstyling. This forced her to take charge of her hair care, leading to experimentation with various products and methods. This period was pivotal in shaping her understanding of her hair's needs.

Tracee Ellis Ross [07:47]: "Naturally, it came from knowledge. It came from knowing myself, and it came from finding the right products."

Her journey of self-discovery and the quest for effective hair care products laid the foundation for what would eventually become Pattern Beauty.

Founding Pattern Beauty

Identifying a Market Gap

Tracee's transition from acting to entrepreneurship was driven by a clear identification of a gap in the beauty industry. She observed that existing products did not cater adequately to curly, coily, and tight-textured hair, often treating natural hair as a problem to be fixed rather than celebrating its uniqueness.

Tracee Ellis Ross [05:14]: "I don't need to name the products, but they were the same products. My mom was like, there is shampoo, conditioner combined."

The Entrepreneurial Journey

Launching Pattern Beauty was no easy feat. Tracee faced skepticism about the market viability and systemic biases within product testing processes. However, her persistence and deep understanding of her own hair needs drove her to create formulations that truly worked for textured hair.

Tracee Ellis Ross [12:17]: "So it was 10 years in the making. It was a lot of nos. It was a lot of, why you."

Her initial pitches often met with misunderstanding, as industry professionals presumed that a celebrity-backed brand would naturally succeed. Tracee emphasized that Pattern Beauty was not a vanity project but a community-focused brand aimed at serving a broader audience.

Overcoming Challenges and Scaling the Business

Navigating Financial and Operational Hurdles

Contrary to the myth of celebrity-funded ventures, Tracee openly discusses the financial constraints and challenges in establishing Pattern Beauty. She had to convince retail partners of her vision without relying solely on her fame.

Tracee Ellis Ross [15:17]: "With my Hollywood agents."

She shares anecdotes about pitching her ideas to retailers and the numerous rejections she faced. Ultimately, her commitment to providing authentic solutions for textured hair led to successful partnerships, such as with Ulta, under the leadership of Mary Dillon.

Building a Specialized Team

As Pattern Beauty grew, Tracee recognized the need for specialization within her team. Initially, team members wore multiple hats, but scaling necessitated hiring experts in various fields to enhance efficiency and focus.

Tracee Ellis Ross [23:03]: "There's a lot more depth there and focus so that we can be much more efficient in what we're doing."

This strategic move allowed the company to manage rapid growth while maintaining the integrity of its mission and vision.

Innovating Industry Standards

Challenging Traditional Product Testing

One of the significant breakthroughs discussed in the episode is Pattern Beauty's approach to product testing. Tracee highlights the systemic issues in how hair products are traditionally tested, which often excludes tighter-textured hair (Type 4).

Tracee Ellis Ross [26:57]: "Instrumental testing or just consumer testing... has to be done."

She narrates the moment when Pattern Beauty's team realized that instrumental testing methods were ineffective for Type 4 hair, leading them to develop new testing protocols that accurately reflect the needs of their core consumers.

Tracee Ellis Ross [28:58]: "So we have silicone fingers that measure the force used to mimic a consumer running their fingers through their hair."

This innovation not only set Pattern Beauty apart but also pushed the industry to reconsider and improve its testing methodologies to be more inclusive.

Emphasizing Diversity and Community

Diversity as a Business Strategy

Tracee firmly believes that embracing diversity is not only morally right but also commercially beneficial. She articulates how supporting and celebrating non-white customers can transform underserved market spaces into thriving business opportunities.

Tracee Ellis Ross [18:52]: "If you come from the place of supporting and celebrating the joy, the beauty and the power of who this customer is, you actually have an opportunity to take all that wasted space that is not being served for this customer and turn that into money and purpose and value."

Community-Centric Approach

Rather than positioning Pattern Beauty as a celebrity brand, Tracee focuses on building a community. She emphasizes listening to her customers through various channels, including social media and real-life events, ensuring that product development is deeply rooted in the community's needs and preferences.

Tracee Ellis Ross [21:52]: "We are grounded in our community and we listen in all ways."

Navigating Emotional and Systemic Challenges

Maintaining Humanity in Business

Opening the conversation with a heartfelt request for a collective breath amidst global challenges, Tracee underscores the importance of humanity in business. She advocates for making space for all aspects of oneself, including vulnerabilities, to build a purpose-driven business.

Tracee Ellis Ross [33:06]: "What I want to do is make space for my whole self, for the parts of me that are afraid, for the parts of me that feel hurt..."

Addressing Policy and Systemic Barriers

Tracee confronts the rollback of Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion (DEI) initiatives, which has created legal and cultural challenges. She refuses to be diminished by these systemic issues, asserting the inherent strength and value of diversity.

Tracee Ellis Ross [34:09]: "I am as whole and as free as you are. And we are inextricably tied to each other."

Conclusion and Final Thoughts

Tracee Ellis Ross's journey with Pattern Beauty exemplifies how personal passion, when aligned with a strong business strategy, can lead to profound industry changes. By prioritizing diversity, community, and authentic product development, she has not only built a successful brand but also paved the way for more inclusive practices within the beauty industry. Her insights serve as an inspiration for entrepreneurs aiming to make a meaningful impact while navigating the complexities of modern business landscapes.

Notable Quotes with Timestamps:

• Tracee Ellis Ross [00:38]: "Black beauty and textured hair was not being mirrored back as a celebration, but instead it was a problem."

• Tracee Ellis Ross [05:14]: "We don't have much time to talk, so I don't want to go into..."

• Tracee Ellis Ross [12:17]: "It was 10 years in the making. It was a lot of nos."

• Tracee Ellis Ross [18:52]: "If you come from the place of supporting and celebrating the joy, the beauty and the power of who this customer is, you actually have an opportunity..."

• Tracee Ellis Ross [26:57]: "Instrumental testing or just consumer testing... has to be done."

• Tracee Ellis Ross [33:06]: "What I want to do is make space for my whole self..."

• Tracee Ellis Ross [34:09]: "I am as whole and as free as you are. And we are inextricably tied to each other."

This episode offers a profound look into how embracing diversity and understanding community needs can lead to both personal fulfillment and business success. Tracee Ellis Ross's story is a testament to the power of resilience, authenticity, and the relentless pursuit of a vision that honors and uplifts marginalized voices.