Summary of "Why Duran Lantink Refuses to Follow Fashion’s Rules"
Podcast Information:
- Title: The Business of Fashion Podcast
- Host: Imran Ahmed, Founder and CEO of The Business of Fashion
- Episode: Why Duran Lantink Refuses to Follow Fashion’s Rules
- Release Date: July 25, 2025
Introduction to Duran Lantink
Imran Ahmed opens the episode by introducing Duran Lantink, a Dutch designer who garnered attention with his first runway show at the tender age of 14. This show featured a unique collection made from repurposed Diesel jeans and his grandmother's tablecloth, which was subsequently picked up by a local multi-brand store. Today, Duran is celebrated for his playful experimentation, innovative collections, and provocative runway presentations. He is now embarking on a new journey as the Creative Director at the iconic fashion house Jean Paul Gaultier.
Notable Quote:
"From a very young age, Dutch designer Duran Lantink was fascinated by the transformative power of fashion." [00:57]
Early Life and Influences
Duran shares insights into his upbringing in The Hague, Netherlands, highlighting the city's proximity to beaches and a vibrant electronic music scene in the '90s. Although The Hague isn't traditionally associated with fashion, Duran's family played a significant role in nurturing his creative instincts. His mother's involvement in fashion and exposure to drag artists and high-end brands like Goce and Margiela provided a liberating environment that fostered his love for self-expression through clothing.
Notable Quotes:
"It was always this freedom of expression and dressing up in the night that would be different than how they would come in pre-party." [06:06]
"I think it was always very nice to be surrounded by clothes. And somehow it just always spoke to me in a way." [07:15]
First Foray into Fashion Design
At just 14 years old, Duran orchestrated his first fashion show by repurposing his stepfather’s unused Diesel jeans and his grandmother's apple green tablecloth. Despite a minor mishap where his parents had to replace damaged shoes, the show was a commercial success, with his collection being sold at a local multi-brand store. This pivotal moment solidified his passion for fashion design, even though he had to return to school shortly after.
Notable Quote:
"That was one of those moments where I really knew what I wanted to do in life or how I wanted to proceed." [13:11]
Navigating Fashion Education
Duran discusses his challenging experience in fashion school, where his unconventional approach to repurposing and upcycling clashed with traditional curricula focused on patterns and fabric manipulation. Initially switching to art school, Duran found his footing at the Rietveld Academy, where a supportive department head allowed him to continue his unique style of design. His graduation showcased fully repurposed pieces, garnering both praise and criticism, which ultimately strengthened his resolve to pursue his creative vision.
Notable Quote:
"I always get these names, and I found that always somehow more quite liberated because I didn't really care." [15:30]
Building an Independent Brand
Post-education, Duran embarked on establishing his own brand, focusing on recycling and upcycling deadstock materials from boutiques. His innovative approach caught international attention with creations like the "vagina pants" for a music video, despite initial reservations. Over the years, his brand expanded from being featured in select shops to being present in 45 stores, achieving financial break-even through strategic growth and winning fashion prizes.
Notable Quote:
"I was like, well, that's not really nice. But, yeah, it was weird. Like, it's weird dealing with things, but it's also good because it makes you stronger." [17:46]
Transition to Jean Paul Gaultier
As Duran's independent brand gained recognition, he began receiving offers from established fashion houses. The opportunity with Jean Paul Gaultier resonated deeply with him due to the brand's history of freedom and non-conformity, aligning perfectly with his creative ethos. The transition involved multiple conversations and the development of a comprehensive proposal outlining his vision for the brand's future.
Notable Quote:
"The House of Gaultier is very much about freedom and about culture and about bringing artists in and all these things." [40:04]
Adapting to Structured Environments
Despite his aversion to traditional "boxes," Duran embraces his role at Jean Paul Gaultier, appreciating the balance between structured processes and creative freedom the house offers. He aims to revive the brand's vibrant energy from the late '80s and early '90s, infusing it with fresh, innovative designs while maintaining its non-conformist spirit.
Notable Quote:
"For me, I'm just doing it step by step." [40:30]
Advice for Aspiring Designers
Reflecting on his journey, Duran advises emerging designers to trust their inner instincts and remain true to their creative visions, even in the face of external pressures and potential setbacks. He emphasizes the importance of perseverance and authenticity, drawing from his own experiences of overcoming challenges and staying committed to his unique approach to fashion.
Notable Quote:
"Whenever you have a very strong inner feeling of, okay, this is right for me, I think you should be really going for it and not being distracted by commentary from outside." [43:35]
Conclusion and Future Outlook
Imran Ahmed and Duran conclude the episode by expressing excitement for Duran's upcoming collections and his tenure at Jean Paul Gaultier. Duran remains optimistic about the future, eager to push boundaries and continue his legacy of innovative and rebellious fashion design.
Notable Quote:
"It's gonna be great." [46:56]
Final Thoughts:
Duran Lantink's journey from a young, passionate designer in The Hague to the Creative Director of Jean Paul Gaultier underscores the power of staying true to one's vision. His emphasis on upcycling, creative freedom, and non-conformity serves as an inspiration for aspiring fashion creatives worldwide.
Note: Advertisements and non-content segments have been excluded from this summary to focus solely on the substantive discussions between Imran Ahmed and Duran Lantink.