
Prices are up, hype is out and vintage is in. BoF correspondents Lei Takanashi and Jessica Kwon join The Debrief to explain why Gen Z is drifting away from luxury — and how brands can rebuild relevance with value, authenticity and better storytelling.
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Hello and welcome to the Debrief from the Business of Fash, where each week we delve into Our most popular BoF professional stories with the correspondents who created them. I'm Executive Editor Brian Baskin.
C
And I'm Senior Correspondent Sheena Butler Young Nolan Daniel White is 24, deep into watches and grew up owning Demna Era, Balenciaga and Rick Owens Dunk sneakers. If he were 10 years older, he'd be on a first name basis with luxury sales assistants, but instead he can recall only one full price in store purchase Gucci socks he bought for $80. The rest is resale, vintage or on markdown. According to him and a lot of his Gen Z cohort, full price luxury just isn't really worth owning right now. Prices feel out of whack, boutiques feel stiff, and the marketing feels more like a billboard than a conversation.
B
Gen Z is this new type of luxury customer. I mean, they're discovering trends on YouTube and TikTok. They shop with the swipe. They are definitely not impressed by a $2,000 quote unquote iconic can bag. And it's a real problem for luxury brands that I don't think they fully figured out. Today we're joined by Lei Takanashi, who reported a story on this exact topic, and Jessica Kwan, our very own Gen Z editorial apprentice. Lei Jessica, welcome to the Debrief podcast.
A
Thanks for having me.
D
Thank you so much Brian. It's always a pleasure to come on.
B
So Jessica, I'll start with you. We couldn't bring Nolan Daniel White on to talk about his Gucci socks, so I will just ask you, how many pairs of Gucci socks do you own?
A
I'm inclined to say zero. My drawer is probably filled with a lot of Hanes undergarments.
B
Nothing wrong with Hanes. Let's expand a bit, though, and talk about your relationship with luxury. I mean, do you shop these brands at all?
A
No, I don't shop luxury brands, at least not retail. You might not know that if you entered my closet and looked at some of the labels. I'm like most of my peers, shopping vintage and resale and at very heavy discounts.
B
It sounds like you are, though. You're just not buying it from their stores at full price. And, Lei, that's exactly what your story's about, right? I mean, what made you realize this is more than just a few isolated Jessica's and Nolan's and this was a generational change?
D
Well, I really think the biggest signal to me that Gen Z is just extremely disinterested in luxury. Just this rise of vintage that Jessica speaks about, that Lauren speaks about, that really a lot of just people are speaking about right now. I mean, every young person I interview for this story about Gen Z relationship with luxury, like, they all expressed that they buy every single piece of clothing in her closet through secondhand platforms. Like the real, real. I think it's interesting, too. Like, even data from consultancies like Bain show that, like, last year, they reported that used luxury goods is outpacing the sales of new luxury goods. So I think that's personally the biggest signal. And it's something that I personally align with, too. Like, I would say nearly my entire closet is secondhand. Like, I don't really buy retail at all.
B
But to be clear, Lei, you're not Gen Z, right? You're actually solidly millennial.
D
Yeah, yeah, yeah. I'm on the cusp, I guess, like, you know, kind of in between those two groups.
C
But, yeah, this is like the only episode of the debrief that we're all going to be comfortably discussing our ages at this moment. But, Brian, I'm curious because a lot of what Jessica just said resonates with me. When I was in my 20s, like, how much of this is just age, really? Like, did you buy something luxury in your 20s? Do you remember your first luxury purchase? Were you 21, strolling into the Louis Vuitton flagship and just purch.
B
Or I definitely was. And I think at 21, I would have been afraid to set foot in the Louis Vuitton flagship, which actually is something I think we'll get to later. I think that's still kind of a problem for these brands. I've never been a big luxury shopper. My habits are probably similar to Jessica's and lays where if I'm going to buy something super expensive, I'm probably going to look for it on sale or from a resale site or vintage. I'm one of those people who grew up, raised never to pay full price for anything. And it's hard to break those habits.
C
Well, so then I think that's, that's the, the next natural question. That is when Gen Z says it's not worth it, right? There are, there is a cohort or a subset of Gen Z that can afford luxury. But like, by and large they're saying it's not worth it right now. Lay in your reporting. What does that actually mean? What are they saying isn't worth it? Is it the materials, the longevity of the product? Is it that they can get it on resale, that it doesn't have a good resale value? What are they really saying?
D
Yeah, I think it's a whole grab bag of things. Like, you know, this is a generation of consumers who've grown up with TikTok accounts like Tanner Letterstein that's completely lifted the veil on just like how luxury products are made and what the quality of it and like, if it's even worth the price. You know, like, they're so savvy because they grew up completely just with all this information at their fingertips and they could just look up like, okay, what is a Louis Vuitton bag made out of? It's actually canvas. It's not even letter. Like, it's like, am I, should I really spend $1,000 in that? Is there an alternative to a Louis Vuitton bag? And there is. Like, you could look up at their dupes of like all these famous handbags that we all are familiar with. You know, there's brands like Quint's that have resonated with these customers instead of like Laura Piano. You know, it's like they know they could find these alternatives. You know, some of them even just buy outright counterfeits because it's the cheapest thing out there. You know, it's like, I don't think they care about just all this like mythological narratives of like all these super old houses and all this craftsmanship and all this noise.
B
You know, it's funny though, I was talking about this with, with our luxury correspondent Robert Williams the other day and I, I sent him a Simpsons clip where they're making fun of brands. I'm an elder millennial, so that's what I do. And, and it was making that exact same point back in like 1993 and I was thinking, like, actually like growing up, that anti corporate, like brands are full of it message was everywhere. And then we all went and bought that stuff anyway. So I guess I'd like to ask Jessica, like, do you agree with what Lei said or are or the idea of brands they just don't want to pay for it?
A
I'm inclined to agree insofar as I think a lot of people in the Gen Z cohort have gotten the quote, unquote ick, as it were, from these luxury, especially the conglomerates. I don't think that's a very unique phenomenon. I mean, with the uncovering of a lot of these unsavory, unethical business practices within the industry, a lot of people are starting to suspect there's this pervasive idea that luxury conglomerates are just trying to squeeze as much profit as possible from the consumer without regard to even the house's own heritage and its storied quality. And I think even price aside, there is a real ire or resentment among Gen Z around price hikes. These very exorbitant price hikes in luxury that we've seen the past few years. I think we're a generation that cares a lot about value for dollar. We grew up seeing concert tickets and thinking, okay, they're pretty expensive, $100, $200, but 10 years from now, surely I'll be able to afford that. And now they're upwards of $1,000. You know, a COVID lockdown disrupted our pedagogy, and during those times, institutions were implementing a lot of price hikes for tuition. And I think all of that definitely translates to luxury space. The luxury space as well.
C
Something else that's interesting about Gen Z that I do think is different from Millennials and other generations is your appetite for the knockoffs. So I think, you know, all of us are agreeing that in our 20s, you know, price sensitivity was a thing, and none of us were, you know, running to the big Gucci release. But I definitely know that I would not be caught dead in a dupe. I'd rather just not have anything. What is that about? Like, why is it that you're so open to that? And does that resonate to you personally as a Gen Z, or like, you, you go for the dupe. You don't feel ashamed, you don't hide.
A
I mean, that's a great question. I'm personally, just as a matter of principle, I would never purchase a dupe, you know, out of respect for the designer. You know, I think of it as art Like I can admire it from afar, but if I can't afford it, I don't need to own it personally. And I also really value quality. But I think with Gen Z, there's this phenomenon of people really wanting to flex for social media. And you know, people will even buy something just to wear it once for a picture or like a reel or a TikTok and you know, throw it out and never think about it again. People are very much into ephemeral clout and I think that definitely shows in the ways people are buying these very cheap dupes that won't last you the year.
C
So my knee jerk reaction, hearing all of us speak, it sounds like a lot of this is like has to do with being, you know, in your 20s, not maybe being at a certain salary level. You can't afford all this stuff and then eventually you grow up and your salary gets a little bit higher and you can then go to the Gucci store. Why can't brands just wait? What is the emergency around how Gen Z is behaving right now that says no, we can't wait for them to turn, turn 30 and 40?
D
Well, the habits that they have right now are likely going to be ingrained with them for the rest of their lives. You know, this like idea of like always seeking value, always like embracing things that are vintage, that have this unique sort of like patented to these items. You know, that is what they define as luxury. And a lot of what these heritage luxury houses thing offered to them just don't speak to them because it's a kind of antiquated idea of what luxury should be. Right. Like, you know, this like super, I guess like old money marketing type of vibe, you know, that just isn't going to reson. And by 2030 they're anticipated to be, I think the consumer generation with the biggest or most spending power. Right. So that's coming pretty close. We're not too far from 2030 and I think you really have to lock in and just think, what does this customer want right now? And just how can we actually resonate with them without just kind of relying on things that might work for millennials? I think a lot of brands, I think they still think streetwear pop culture celebrities are what's going to sell the product, but really that's not the case. I think what they really have to figure out is one, this value thing, how can we sell luxury for prices that they could stomach, but also just things that align with their own personal values, this desire for authenticity that they seek all this Type of stuff.
B
So let's talk about value then. I mean, how do you signal that? And is it even possible to signal that a handbag has value if the price is 10,000 doll?
D
You know, I'm thinking back to what Print Thompson North American CEO told me, which was that you have to really explain to them why luxury costs, the price it costs, right? Whether it's a thousand dollar handbag or like a $100 candle, right? Like you have to explain that there's this craftsmanship that's really built into this product, you know, and that there's like heritage and like. But I think you have to really prove that the price matches that point. And I think even then it's kind of hard to really sell some of those items. Like when I think of like the luxury brands I've resonated with like younger people in recent years, it's not really like stu, like you know, from the LVMHs of the world. It's like brands like Capital, which like, you know, they have this like crazy like denim distressing borough techniques. And like that's all that these like enthusiasts talk about how like, oh, capital denim is like one of one. It's like, you know, it's impossibly hard to find. It's. You can only buy it at the stores in Japan. All this, that and the third, right? And I think when you explain those types of like, I guess like narratives that feel more like real, where it isn't just like something that's like talking about a house's heritage over and over again. But it really does explain like, okay, this is the actual craftsmanship, then you can actually maybe see videos of it online and things like that. I think that actually breaks through. But even then it's like, I don't know, it's just, I think it's just so hard to convince that customer even on that end, like that craftsmanship is worth the money. I think you also have to kind of play into like their cultural interest and what they're passionate is about personally.
B
We'll be back with more of the debrief right after this.
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B
It's funny, when you mentioned candles before, that's kind of where my brain went actually, because the other way to signal value is not so much this is the best made product, but it's part of this wider world or universe if you're being really grandiose that you're buying into. And Loewe had that tomato leaf candle that was all over TikTok and it's extremely expensive for a candle, but I think just about anyone could buy it as a splurge at least. And once you buy that, you're kind of buying in and you're thinking, oh, what else do they sell? Oh, I'm kind of into maybe looking at the bags or the clothes at some point when I can afford those. And then you worry less about, oh, where was this made? And how good is the stitching? And that stuff becomes secondary. What do you think, Jessica? I mean, does that kind of thing work on you?
A
You know, it's funny, with the bag charm craze, I was looking at some Louis Vuitton bag charms and I was like, my first instinct is for $400 I could just buy a purse at another brand that is still pretty solid quality instead of buying the small bag charm that just has the lv logo. I mean, I think I would love a tomato leaf candle from Loewe. That's something that definitely, I think speaks to me in my heart. But for the most part, I mean, as a strategy, I think it can be winsome in certain contexts, but there's definitely a limit to how much you're relying on your heritage and, like, how much Gen Z actually wants to telegraph that they can afford your stuff.
C
The other favorite word that's always used for Gen Z, and if I can make a case for millennials, it was used for us too, that we, like, crave authenticity. Like, we want things to feel real. What does that mean for a Gen Z? Or from like a marketing standpoint, are you. Are you more impressed by the format of maybe an unboxing? I think lay's story gets into this a little bit versus, like a classic ad and an editorial like Vogue. What moves you and what feels authentic.
D
I'll personally say the only luxury designer to actually resonate with me was honestly, Virgil Abloh. And it was because of his commitment to just authentically just, just highlighting all these subcultures that he was inspired by highlighting. Just like this perspective that was never really considered within the luxury space. You know, it was just like very strong, like, just like worldly perspective of just like, what is luxury fashion? It's streetwear, it's hip hop. It's like all these things that, like, you know, people that were of that millennial base grew up with, but never felt like, I guess, was properly pedestal or acknowledged in the luxury spirit. Right. So I think it's like things like that, you're kind of just looking at what actually resonates with culture en masse and you're actually like, authentically tap into that.
C
Very millennial.
D
Yeah, yeah, I think it is. You know, and I mean, that worked for me. Like, that was the first time I ever went to a Louis Vuitton store was because of him, you know, and that was the only time I ever looked and even considered buying anything. But aside from that, I just haven't felt that since then.
C
And how would you contrast that, Jessica, with being a Gen Z?
A
I think on the subject of traditional marketing campaigns and luxury, a list celebrities used to be seen as these very mysterious, untouchable figures who would do one late night talk show appearance and you don't know much about them, and they're very aspirational, but now that they've become so concerned with appearing like the salt of the earth on social media, they've become very cringy and Especially since I think about that COVID lockdown era Imagine cover video with all the celebrities singing like, I feel like that marks such a turning point. Like Gen Z finds a lot of merriment in making fun of the spectacle of celebrity or we just don't care, period.
C
Brian is deeply offended, but continue.
B
No, no, no, no. Quite the opposite. I love this theory that the Imagine video single handedly killed the global luxury industry. I actually totally buy into it, Jessica.
A
There are reverberations, like unintended consequences. I think also at the same time our generation grew up on YouTube videos, had like how to build an outfit 101 that really opened the door to make this information free and accessible to all. That's how we got our style advice. Not from magazines or anything. And I think it definitely follows that now we're still looking toward two influencers and social media for our trend analysis and predictions.
B
So what is the way back for these brands? I mean, how do they reconnect with this generation? Or if Gen Z's a lost cause, how do they get Gen Alpha?
D
Well, I mean, I'm not even sure if the influencers even know the answer to that question, but I remember one influencer I talked to. Her name's Kate Barlett. She's this young New York City influencer who's like I believe 24 years old, lives in New York City in like the Upper east side. And you know, even though she never necessarily told me that she buys luxury, just like Jessica, like she told me that when it comes to like content creation, what's really important is that the videos have to feel real, they have to feel authentic. It should be more like, you know, just like a regular unboxing video. Something that just feels like anyone could make it. Anyone can access this product. Not like some glossy marketing campaign where it's like, you know, super editorialized and kind of sleepy. You know, just something that's like, just normal. Like even thinking about someone like Wisdom Kai, right? Like all his content's like super approachable. It's not like something that's like ridiculously over edited. It's very much like here, look, I just got something from Mew Mew and like it broke. You know, like it's, it doesn't feel fake or like, you know, just like scripted at all. And I think that's super important in regards to the communication on socials. But to answer that question about what it would take, I think one thing that luxury brands should really, I think try to tap into is just figure out how to Take, take into consideration this vintage market. I think it's really possible for them to actually just sort of like, I don't know if the right word to use is like almost monopolize it, but I've noticed how brands pull Ralph Lauren recently have sort of began selling just like their own vintage products for like ridiculously high prices in my opinion, just in my honest opinion as someone who buys that stuff. But it does sell like people do buy that stuff, you know. And I think that's something that if like the LVMH owned companies of the world can figure out how to take control of their own resale, that could be a huge solution. Especially if they could offer prices that are discounted from the just like the regular retail luxury products. I mean you already see outdoor brands do this all the time. Like they sell pre loved gear for like $300 less than the new product and people still love it and buy it because it's just, it's the same thing basically, just used a little bit. I think the other thing that they have to do is I think they just have to hire talent that I think speaks to that customer a bit more. You know, like you want to think about like CDs in recent years. I just feel like there isn't many that really speak to just that generation, that younger generation. Like, and it's not something like hiring ASAP Rocky to be the creative director of Raven, you know, it's more like finding someone that's akin to a Virgil who could actually speak for that generation and really understands what their tastes are, what they're into in terms of pop culture, all those things. And I don't necessarily feel like the CDs today really, really understand that. I think they understand what beautiful clothing looks like, but I don't think they understand the cultural element that kind of drives everything else behind that.
B
Yeah, it's funny, when these brands were talking in the last few years about being everywhere their customer is being part of every cultural moment, I mean, you just pointed out two areas where they're not, which is, is who they're hiring to actually run these brands. And then the vintage market, which is where their customers actually are and the place that these luxury brands, a lot of them wouldn't be caught dead even engaging with.
A
Yeah, I mean, Chloe recently resurrected the Paddington bag after it made quite a viral resurgence. And I was at a Chloe store recently and the sales associate was telling me it's been selling very well despite the very high price at which it's marked. And I Think it's a very fine line for luxury brands. I think, Lei, you do make a great point about the actual creative directors and how they're not really resonating with Gen Z, but it's a very fine line. When you try to make your luxury brand more down to earth, then there's a chance that it will start to feel even more ridiculous that the price point is the way it is. They're in a bit of a catch 22 there.
C
Short of inheriting a multimillion dollar estate. Jessica, is there anything that they can do to get you to purchase your first big maybe Gucci socks, not Hanes ones. Maybe take a step up from Hanes. What would it take for you to go do that?
A
Speaking to Lei's point about like, someone, a figure like Virgil Abloh, I think someone like that makes an entire generation excited to shop at a brand. There's a sense of like a new era, even with Virgil being, you know, one of the first black designers at a major at the helm of a major luxury brand. And I think Gen Z, for all the hand wringing about how they care about sustainability and DEI and all these values, but, you know, that might not necessarily reflect in their dollar. I think there is something to be said about a very beautiful story. I think Gen Z still wants to buy into and feel like they're a part of a very important movement or wave. And I think if we were to see that again, I might be opening my wallet, calling up my bank.
C
So, yeah, this was such an amazing conversation. I learned so much. I don't feel old. Thank you, Lei and Jessica, for joining us today.
D
Thank you so much, Gina. It was a pleasure to come on again.
A
Thanks for having me, Sheena. And you're very young and beautiful.
D
Oh, my God.
C
Thank you. Can we keep that in? That needs to stay on.
B
I'm old and proud of it, so I don't mind.
C
I just don't want the part where I'm described as young and beautiful. Cut, please. Please be sure to check out Lei's article why Luxury needs to rethink how it speaks to gen z@businessofashion.com these and other stories are available to BoF Professional subscribers only and you can find the links in the episode notes. You've been listening to the debrief, produced and edited by Olivia Davies and Eric Brea. I'm Sheena Butler Young.
B
And I'm Brian Baskin. We'll be back next week with a new episode. Thanks so much for joining us and be sure to follow us wherever you get your podcasts. Hey listeners, Meet Russell.
D
Hey.
B
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Date: September 24, 2025
Host: Brian Baskin, Executive Editor
Guest Panel:
This episode explores the evolving relationship between Gen Z and the luxury fashion industry, centering on why traditional luxury brands and narratives are failing to resonate with younger consumers. Drawing on reporting, personal experience, and generational perspectives, the discussion dives deep into Gen Z’s shopping habits, their valuation of luxury, shifting perceptions of branding, and what the future holds for heritage fashion houses trying to win over this crucial demographic.
Secondhand Over Storefront:
Data Backs the Shift:
Price Transparency & Value:
Distrust of Conglomerate Motives:
Cultural Attitudes to Dupes and Authenticity:
Heritage Narratives Losing Power:
Entry-Level Items as a Strategy:
Redefining Authenticity:
Vintage and Resale Integration:
Talent and Relevancy:
“[Gen Z] cares a lot about value for dollar. We grew up seeing concert tickets and thinking, okay, they're pretty expensive, but 10 years from now, surely I'll be able to afford that. And now they're upwards of $1,000.” — Jessica Kwan ([07:06])
“You have to really explain to them why luxury costs the price it costs... you have to really prove that the price matches that point.” — Lei Takanashi ([11:28])
“Gen Z finds a lot of merriment in making fun of the spectacle of celebrity, or we just don't care, period.” — Jessica Kwan ([18:05])
“If [brands] try to make your luxury brand more down to earth, then there's a chance that it will start to feel even more ridiculous that the price point is the way it is. They're in a bit of a catch 22 there.” — Jessica Kwan ([22:35])
“There's a sense of like a new era, even with Virgil [Abloh] being one of the first Black designers at the helm of a major luxury brand. Gen Z... still wants to buy into... a very important movement or wave.” — Jessica Kwan ([23:26])
“I love this theory that the Imagine video single handedly killed the global luxury industry. I actually totally buy into it, Jessica.” — Brian Baskin ([18:48])
The episode makes clear that Gen Z’s understanding of luxury is fundamentally different from previous generations. For them, authenticity, transparency, value, and cultural relevance outweigh heritage, price, or celebrity association. The challenge for luxury brands is to reimagine their narratives and business models — incorporating resale, hiring culturally tuned talent, and abandoning outdated notions of aspiration — to win over this critical cohort before their habits are fully entrenched.
As Jessica Kwan closes:
“I think Gen Z still wants to buy into and feel like they’re a part of a very important movement or wave. And I think if we were to see that again, I might be opening my wallet, calling up my bank.” ([23:26])
For Lei Takanashi’s full article and further reading, visit businessoffashion.com.