The Business of Fashion Podcast
Episode: Why Robert Wun Ditched the Wholesale Model for Bespoke Creations
Date: November 7, 2025
Host: Imran Ahmed
Guest: Robert Wun
Episode Overview
This episode features a deep-dive conversation between Imran Ahmed, founder of The Business of Fashion (BoF), and Hong Kong-born designer Robert Wun. Together, they unpack Robert’s unconventional path through the fashion industry: growing up with creative ambitions in Hong Kong, moving to London for education, grappling with the limitations and stresses of the wholesale model, and ultimately pivoting to a successful, client-first couture business. Through candid reflections, unique anecdotes, and industry insights, Robert illustrates how rejecting traditional fashion systems allowed him to build a more sustainable, authentic, and creatively fulfilling brand.
Key Discussion Points & Insights
1. Early Influences and Life in Hong Kong
- Cultural Pressures: Robert discusses the prevalent expectations in Hong Kong for youth to pursue traditional professions rather than creative careers.
- Family Support: Despite pressures from extended family and societal expectations, his immediate family, especially his mother, recognized and nurtured his creative inclinations from an early age.
- “I start really drawing, like around a year and a half and two years old, and I drew every night.” — Robert Wun (04:02)
- Changing Creative Landscape: Robert reflects on Hong Kong's era as a "symbol of cultural leadership" in Asia and the shifts post-reunification with China and COVID-19.
- “I kind of always believe that, you know, when there's a challenge, there's an opportunity... the roughest, most beautiful diamond came from the hardest of pressure.” — Robert Wun (08:13)
2. Choosing London and Fashion Education
- London as a Creative Hub: Robert’s family saw more potential for a creative career in the UK than in Hong Kong, leading to his studies at the London College of Fashion (LCF).
- Educational Choices: Unaware of the nuanced reputations of UK fashion schools, Robert chose LCF out of pragmatism.
- “I have no bloody clue, like at all. I didn't understand any of it. So I kind of just went for an interview...” — Robert Wun (09:20)
- Toxic Comparisons: He addresses the industry’s fixation on Central Saint Martins (CSM) as the “only” prestige path, yet credits LCF for teaching him essential technical skills.
3. Industry Entry: Discovery and Early Struggles
- Discovery by Joyce Boutique: Robert’s graduate collection, not included in his school’s press show, caught the attention of Michael Mog from Joyce, who invited him for a popup in Hong Kong.
- “I just released the photos on my social media and then Michael got in touch that they want to do a pop up...” — Robert Wun (14:21)
- First Clients and Major Opportunities:
- Lady Gaga bought pieces from his graduate collection.
- Collaborated on costumes for “Hunger Games: Mockingjay.”
- Learning Business Basics: Michael and Joyce taught him how to price his work and approach the wholesale system, filling gaps left by fashion school.
4. The Wholesale Model: Limitations and Personal Toll
- Struggles to Sustain: Robert recounts the financial and operational hardships of keeping afloat with minimal stockists and complex designs ill-suited to factory production and wholesale minimums.
- “Terrible, I would say, right. Like barely surviving... So it was a very tough few years for me, you know.” — Robert Wun (17:44)
5. The Pandemic Pivot — Embracing Bespoke Couture
- COVID-19 as Inflection Point: The pandemic’s interruption of the global fashion calendar and retail forced Robert to reset his business model, focusing purely on made-to-order pieces with meaning.
- “Maybe it's time for us to just do what we are meant to do, you know, without worrying about the business, without worrying about meeting the bias anymore. Then let's use this most challenging time ever to create something maybe is the most honest.” — Robert Wun (19:28)
- Roots in Personal Authenticity: The loss of his grandmother and the opportunity for slower, more meaningful creation led to a highly personal approach that resonated deeply with clients.*
- “Everything I create needs to have a responsibility not only for myself, but also for the message that I'm trying to relay to people.” — Robert Wun (19:54)
- Immediate Impact: Sharing collections digitally attracted new clients who connected with his narrative and craftsmanship.
6. Being Outside the “London System”
- Not Part of British Fashion Programs: Despite applying to all available institutional support programs, Robert was never selected for New Gen or BFC programs and never showed at London Fashion Week.
- “I have applied for everything like everyone else does... but just never lucky enough to be part of any of the programs or under any of their umbrella or supporting system that London had to offer.” — Robert Wun (26:45)
- Silver Lining in Independence: The lack of institutional validation freed him from conformity, making his pivot to couture more organic and advantageous, especially post-pandemic.
7. Paris and the ANDAM Prize: Recognition & Acceleration
- Unexpected Nomination: Rather than apply, Robert was invited to submit for the prestigious French ANDAM prize, which he won a special award for in 2022.
- “I simply is someone that wants to do what I love to do for the rest of my life until I cannot. And that apparently makes a lot of sense to them.” — Robert Wun (32:01)
- Mentorship from Bruno Pavlovsky (Chanel):
- Notable Quote:
Bruno Pavlovsky: “My advice to you is, advice is useless. Talk is cheap. We're here to make things happen. Tell me where you want to go, and I'm going to make it happen.” (35:10)
- Notable Quote:
- Entering Paris Couture Week: With Pavlovsky’s backing and support from the French Federation, Robert transitioned to presenting on the coveted Haute Couture calendar—the first full, in-person show of his career.
- The incredible stress and fear became the raw inspiration for his debut Paris collection, titled “For Fear.”
8. Building a Sustainable, Client-First Couture Business
- Business Growth: With a rapidly expanding team (now 11–12 people), increased profits, and growing turnover, Robert’s couture model serves a niche but enthusiastic clientele.
- “From not making any profit at all to actually start making profit... It’s a little win.” — Robert Wun (39:51)
- Client Demographics: U.S. (NYC/LA—mainly millennials and Asian-Americans) forms the strongest market, plus significant numbers of art collectors and LGBTQ+ clients seeking couture for weddings and special events.
- “Now we have up to like 41 of those couture clients, and 30 of them are regulars.” — Robert Wun (41:40)
- “Our average for those couture clients order range will be around 45 to 60,000, you know. Pounds.” — Robert Wun (41:53)
- Why Clients Choose Him:
- Distinct narratives, modernity, and inclusivity—especially appreciated by millennial, Asian-American, and gay male couples.
- Experimental menswear.
- Flexible, collaborative approach to bespoke commissions.
- “There is this excitement behind when a couture brand that is not really doing something just to make you look like you're supposed to go to a ball, you're supposed to look, you know, rich and wealthy, but there's a story and an aspect behind it.” — Robert Wun (43:23)
Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments
-
On Not Fitting and Creating a New Path:
“The system didn't fit you and you didn't fit into the system, so you created your own way of doing things. And it just so happens to fit into another system, which is a very specialized, very specific world. But it enables you to really focus on going back to that quote about just doing what you love.”
— Imran Ahmed (47:34) -
On Balancing Creativity & Reality:
“Being a creative as your career is a beautiful thing. It's a blessing, but you can't ignore the reality of things, because that comes hand to hand. Your creativity can't just come from the void... One must understand the industry and find meaning in what you do informed by knowledge and backbone.”
— Robert Wun (48:31) -
On Protecting Creativity:
“You protected the source and purpose of your creativity and you found a model that worked around your creativity as opposed to sacrificing your creativity for a model.”
— Imran Ahmed (50:42) -
On Advice for Young Creatives:
“Don’t jump into this rabbit hole about, oh, yes, you're so creative, it's so difficult to make it and blame the world, blame the society, blame the system... Find where you are at, learn everything.”
— Robert Wun (49:30) -
On the Fashion Business:
“The creative side and the business side, they need each other. Without the business side, the creative side cannot exist. Without the creative side, the business has no power, no fuel, no energy.”
— Imran Ahmed (51:08)
Timestamps for Major Segments
- Growing up in Hong Kong; early creativity: 02:05–05:11
- Hong Kong’s cultural contributions and changes: 05:11–08:20
- Moving to London, experiences at LCF: 08:32–10:58
- Discovery by Joyce Boutique; early career lessons: 12:05–17:06
- Wholesale business challenges: 17:44–19:08
- Pandemic pivot to bespoke/couture: 19:28–22:31
- Excluded from London fashion ‘system’: 26:11–27:24
- ANDAM Prize & Paris couture break: 29:37–38:13
- Debut Paris Couture Week show: 38:13–39:08
- Current business, clientele, model: 39:08–46:20
- Why clients choose Robert; impact and inclusivity: 43:23–45:21
- Advice for young creatives & balanced business: 48:14–51:48
Conclusion
Robert Wun’s journey is a testament to resilience, authenticity, and the willingness to chart one’s own course when the traditional system doesn't fit. By adapting to adversity and remaining steadfast in his values, Robert constructed a bespoke couture business model that is financially viable and true to his creative purpose—a path especially resonant for today’s shifting fashion landscape.
For those who haven't listened, this episode is an insightful, candid exploration of how creative vision and commercial realities can coexist—and sometimes, how barriers open the door to entirely new possibilities.