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A
Hey guys, it's Jill. You may not know this about me considering all of our fashion talk on the podcast, but I am a big time browser. A shopper, not so much. Part of that is because I'm a sucker for a statement look and I know that the cost per wear is just not going to be there. When I wear something once it has its little moment on Instagram and then I'm on to the next outfit, usually for a glossy event. That's why when it comes to fashion, I actually borrow most everything when that's an option. And I've recently become a fan of Vivrel, which in terms of designer accessories has options upon options upon options. We're talking millions of dollars in new inventory every single week. Vivre is an exclusive fashion and lifestyle membership, unlocking access to thousands of hard to find handbags, jewelry, watches and diamonds. You can just pay a monthly fee and then you make the rules. You can rotate often or you can feel free to take a while with that Celine style that you just can't let go. So check it out. Go to www.virel.com and apply for a membership today using code GLOSSY to get 50% off your first three months of membership. The code also allows you to skip the Virel wait list. That's V I V R e l l e.com use code GLOSSY for 50% off the first three months of membership. Join Glossy sister brand Modern Retail for their annual Marketing Summit taking place April 20th through 22nd in Huntington Beach, California, where brand leaders from Amica Beauty, ThredUp, PacSun and many more will dive into how they're navigating a marketing landscape that is changing more quickly than ever before. This summit will equip you with the knowledge, strategies and connections you need through our one on one meetings, working groups, casual networking and more. Don't wait. We're offering $200 off with the promo code SUMMIT2026NOSPACES. Again, that's S u m m I t2026NOSPACES. Go to ModernRetail Co MarketingSummit to learn more and secure your pass. Brands and retailers may be eligible for a complimentary pass, so apply on the event page to see if you qualify.
B
Hello and welcome back to the Glossy Podcast. I'm Dani Parisi, Senior Fashion Reporter at Glossy and I'm here with our Editor in Chief, Jill Manoff. Hello Jill Woo.
A
Fresh from Fashion Week. How are you, Dani?
B
I'm good. I'm also fresh from. Well, I don't know if I would say fresh from.
A
I know how fresh we are. It's over.
B
We'll say yes. New York Fashion Week is over. We shared our thoughts in a New York Fashion Week takeaway episode earlier this week, which you can go listen to. But we have a little break before London Fashion Week. Wanted to do a little more talking about New York Fashion Week, since we've got the time. Jill, you had a good conversation this week. Tell me about who you spoke to.
A
Yes. This season we decided to get the buyer's perspective. And so I talked to Silvano Vangi, who is over at Prince Temps New York, and he is there. His position is creative and merchandising director, but essentially their head buyer. And he's formerly. He was formerly at Luisa Via Roma as the head buyer and creative director. So kind of creative genius. And we had the best conversation. He definitely loves some of the designers we know and love. We were just talking about Patricio Campilo and also he mentioned Amy Smilovic at Tibby. So anyway, we kind of. I geeked out with just talking fashion with him and it was so fun.
B
Yeah. Like you said, it's good to get the perspective of the buyers. Two things I want to say before we start is one, I got to go to the Prontom hosted a show at the beginning of the week for Sergio Saldano. And it was my first time actually being in Prontoun, New York. And it's a beautiful, beautiful store. And then second, I'm glad we're talking to a buyer because actually the wholesale relationship, the relationship between brands and retail and brands and buyers came up a lot in my conversations at New York Fashion Week. I don't know about for you, but Maxwell Osborne from public school said he thought the model was broken. Jane Siskin from Senko Sep was like, we're sticking with department stores. We support them. There was a lot of. Sometimes I asked people, but other times it just came up naturally. So I feel like there was a lot of thinking about what's going on with what the buyers want and how do the brands relate to the buyers and all that kind of stuff. Did you get the same sense from talking to people?
A
So many folks went there and mentioned that as well. So I did. I did ask Silvano, which you'll hear in the. The episode about that and whether all of the issues with department stores are, I don't know, having negative effects on his relationship with brands or brands hesitancy to sign on to a. A wholesale relationship with pr. He said Percy specified that they are not a department store as they Do. And also, yeah, he played it down even when I, when he said, it's not, well, we're not at a department store, I was like, well, do designers see that distinction? Because, anyway, I think just the wholesale partnership in general, there's some caution there on behalf of brands. But yes, everybody was alluding to or mentioning directly the issues with Saks Global. And some folks were saying kind of what they were doing instead and selling at specialty stores, whereas others kind of said, I don't know, ask my business partner. I don't know how we're solving this. So that was interesting.
B
Yeah, that's a, that's a common answer as well. Well, it sounds like a good conversation. Let's be done with our preamble here and let's get into the episode.
A
Silvano, thanks for being here.
C
My pleasure, my pleasure. Thanks for having me.
A
Of course. Oh, my gosh. We are fresh off of New York Fashion Week. Thanks for squeezing us in. Are you hitting all of the fashion weeks this Fashion Month?
C
I mean, yeah, I've been. I sold most of the showrooms and shows that I can during this week and obviously, I mean, we just opened our store, so it's really exciting. We had a lot of events in store, so it was, this was very, very interesting.
A
Yes. I was mentioning to you, I visited during New York Fashion Week. Your, your New York based store. Anyway, I didn't mention this to you. I love. Anyway, you guys had it. We're doing it up for Valentine's Day and the fragrance section was jumping. I was like, it's Valentine's Day. I get it. Anyway, exciting to see.
C
Absolutely, absolutely. We have an incredible selection of French unique perfumes. So. Yeah, yeah, yeah. Beautiful, beautiful.
A
So amazing. Well, you've been to New York Fashion Week several times. Tell me about your take on this season. Like, overall, did it feel fresh? Did it feel playful? Were you inspired compared to seasons past?
B
Yeah.
C
I mean, absolutely. For us it's. I mean, the goal of Quantum is really to bring the French designer the European style in New York. So we, the selection of the American designers is really accurate because it's important for us to be integrated in the market and represent also this part in a very curated way. So when we approach the Fashion week, it's always a selection of a few special brands that need to be part of our selection. For sure. So it was very interesting. Absolutely, yes.
A
Would you say your approach to New York Fashion Week is different? Having after having opened the New York store again, you're paying more attention to New York designers? Maybe for presence in the city, whereas in France, definitely it wasn't as important. Go ahead.
C
I mean, I mean, for example, we had an incredible event with Sergio Hudson. He has his shows during New York Fashion Week, and we had the chance to have him in the store presenting the beautiful addresses of the day the day after the shows. And the clients, they had the chance to try through IE Mirror, in collaboration with Google. And I mean, we believe that it's really important to represent American designers from new, emerging, also to more established, let's say, also for me was really important to see the new version of Parenza. That for sure, was very important during this special week. And I had the chance to see the collection was beautiful. And so we are fan of Rachel.
A
Yes, she's fantastic. Would you say that your approach to the season, in terms of how you're managing your schedule and what you're prioritizing, are you going to the shows? Is it all about market appointments? Are you placing your orders on the spot? Like, what's. What's the approach?
C
Okay, so in general, obviously, I mean, we.
B
We.
C
There's always a chance to organize video call, and that's clear. But it's super important to see the collection in real, to see the fit, to see on the model, to touch the fabrics. So for me, it's really important to be present in the showrooms. That, for me, is absolutely the priority. Then I don't have the chance to go to see all the shows, so I just see a few of them. And I saw Kevin Klein, I saw Pranza, I saw Kate, I saw Public School, Lachlan Smith, Campino. I mean, some of them, but not all of them, for sure. I really prefer to see the collection. That's really my priority.
A
Yes. I'm surprised. We probably saw each other. We just didn't know each other at the time. I went to a lot of the same shows. From your point of view, what felt new, what felt fresh. Overall, you're seeing many shows. Maybe there are certain silhouettes that stood out or that a lot of designers really gravitated toward for fall. Or maybe we're seeing more print or more color. What felt new and felt exciting.
C
I mean, I'm interested in the process of. Of Campillo. I think that this guy, he has something very interesting to say. I had the chance to. I had a beautiful dinner with him because I wanted to understand exactly what's behind. And when you hear his story, you understand that everything comes from his family. The idea to represent everything that was really in his DNA, in what he saw when he was a kid. So he's bringing this beautiful image in. A very modern, with a modern approach. So for example, all these trousers, they are very iconic. I think he has something very beautiful to sell to say. And also we had the chance to, during the last fashion week to host Willy Chavarria that he presented his vision of this. I mean, he presented his women's collection in on the US market in our iconic red room. We had a beautiful show with him. So let's say we continue to tell the story also of this type of woman, let's say. Yeah. And this culture.
A
Yes. So the first design you were talking about, Patricio Campilo. I know. I really noticed kind of the waist detail. It was kind of like a belt that was kind of corset inspired. And also he told me backstage that he was introducing leather accessories for the first time. And I noticed those leather, leather duffels. Is it a different buying team altogether that would be maybe purchasing those accessories as opposed to the ready to wear or is it all in one?
C
No, no, it's only one. It's all in one. We, we love the idea to supervise the total look. The, you know, for us it's really important to have the image needs to be completed. So. So it's a different approach when you buy the collection. That's that way. Yeah.
A
Hey, guys, it's Jill. You may not know this about me considering all of our fashion talk on the podcast, but I am a big time browser, a shopper, not so much. Part of that is because I'm a sucker for a statement look. And I know that the cost per wear is just not going to be there when I wear something once it has its little moment on Instagram and then I'm on to the next outfit. And usually for a glossy event. That's why when it comes to fashion, I actually borrow most everything when that's an option. And I've recently become a fan of Vivrel, which in terms of designer accessories has options upon options upon options. We're talking millions of dollars in new inventory every single week. So depending on the occasion, I could play up a throwback look with a little Dior saddlebag, or I could round out a New York it girl look with a of pair bag by the row. Or I could carry the latest by Bottega because Jacob Elordi inspired me like everyone else and I don't have to feel guilty about changing it up. Vivrel is an exclusive fashion and lifestyle membership, unlocking access to thousands of hard to find handbags, jewelry, watches, and diamonds, you can just pay a monthly fee. And then you make the rules. You can rotate often, or you can feel free to take a while with that Celine style that you just can't let go. So check it out. Go to www.vivrel.com and apply for a membership today, using code glossy to get 50% off your first three months of membership. The code also allows you to skip the Vivrel wait list. That's V I V R e l l e dot com. Use code glossy for 50% off the first three months of membership. Well, we talked about this is only week one of Fashion Month. There's much more to see. And so we don't have to define the trend of this season, but in terms of some trends that you were seeing across, across shows, anything that, I don't know, you were picking up on?
C
I mean. I mean, we. There's a. There's a. Also in the way that it's structured the store. We have, you know, the idea is this beautiful French apartment, so it's divided by room, and we resonate also the collection in that sense. So we have the playroom that is our space for emerging designers, so we can play with colors and be more funny in terms of approach. Then we have the salon that is daily chic, very minimal, simple. And then we have the boudoir that is evening and haute couture. So accordingly, also to the room that we have, we love everything that is evening in a very beautiful, chic way. So, for example, the collection of Laquan Smith and his James Montgomery, I think was super iconic and beautiful, I think would be an introduction for us. And then for sure, it's very important. The minimal look, very chic, very elevated. This is something that is important for us. So in general, and I can see this in the New York Fashion Week, you can always find that type of woman represented in a beautiful way. Um, so I. I would say that the minimal is always something that we love to have in Klein, for example, but always with a special twist, always with something that it's in some way related to art. You know, when. When the minimal is connected with an artistic approach, let's say it comes elevated, more conceptual. That, for sure, is a woman that we love.
A
Yes, I love that you mentioned that on Laquan Smith and maybe the evening, more evening look. I. I talked to, like, Zankov, Henry Zenkov, and also the designer at Theory, and I think that they were rolling out some evening wear for the first time kind of I don't know, tiptoeing into it. It wasn't like they were saying this. They could wear this kind of cashmere gown for day. Like, this is their girl, is a little bit fabulous. But would you say, in terms of your buying, like, are you thinking about somebody who is coming to you for something special? Like maybe they will come to PR for a. A special occasion look, or what is she shopping for?
C
I mean, let's say that we have a different type of clients, for sure. Is. Is a. Is a strong woman that she wants to. To go to work in and be dressed in a beautiful way, very elevated. And then for. For evening, I mean, so we. We open in Taiwan because, I mean, it's really important. The cocktail dresses, all the wedding parts. So there's different level, for sure. We have a lot of galas. We have a lot of. I mean, our client is a luxury client, and they're looking always for something unique, exclusive in some way, something that they cannot find. So also, in our approach, when we speak with brands, we always wants to find something that is a different color, is a different fabric. We would love to represent always this part of something that you can find only at Printheim New York.
A
Oh, that's interesting. So you're kind of doing a collaborative role with the designers. If you see something amazing on the Runway and you would say, our shopper would love that, but maybe they would love it in red. Like, are you guys working collaboratively in that way?
C
Yeah, absolutely. Absolutely. We create capsule collection exclusive for the store. We present designers that are not represented in the. In the. In the market. The 30% of our offer is. Is based on brands that are not presented in New York.
A
Yes. Are brands willing to go there with you? I mean, they want to be in your store. It's exciting. I don't know, how would you describe their willingness compared to maybe years past, to. Yeah. Do exclusive.
C
So. So the. The brands, they. They. They. I mean, obviously, when you go. When we're speaking about exclusive products, it means that they have to create special production only for you. It means that usually there are minimum of quantities for production. So it's a very different process, you know, so for a brand is you. You. You make it because it makes sense, because it's a beautiful moment of communication. Usually when we. When we. And we always create also beautiful events in the store. You can meet the designer, and then, in addition, we're playing a lot on the haute couture side. So when we opened the store, we had a beautiful exhibition of Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture. And we worked also with Armani Prive. I mean, the idea in that case is the dress that is created on your body and with your measurement. There's only one in the country for each client. So we go on a different range of prices, for sure. But for sure, in general, our clients, they are looking always for something exclusive.
A
Yes. Exciting. Was anything almost surprising to you? You saw a designer, a collection by a designer that you haven't invested in before, they haven't had a presence in your stores before, but you decided to go there this, this season because they wowed you or certain pieces they did really, to your assortment.
C
I mean. I mean, brands that I didn't carry before, you mean, Right?
A
Yes, exactly.
C
Yeah, yeah, yeah. So, I mean, I was. I loved Public School. I think that was when I saw the show. There was simplicity and there was a. It was very clear that this facade, the type of production, it was very elevated. So it's a look that is very modern, has a touch of fashion in the right way. But I think that this guy. They have something very, very. Absolutely. I saw the collection and, and, you know, the beautiful sartorial taste. There's a. There's a detail. There is an attention on detail. That is. Is amazing.
A
Absolutely, yes. It felt very, I don't know, OG public school, where it was like, kind of dark and like cool. New York's kind of street. That's how the vibe I got.
C
Definitely. Absolutely, yes.
A
Would you say. And that's menswear? Is your men shopping as much as women in store. What's your kind of customer breakdown?
C
So we have. Let's say we work on three different level of. On men's, we have for sure the man of Wall street, because the stock exchange is the building next to us. In that case, we have beautiful brands, tailoring, and all this part, it's really important. Then we have a client that is more fashion, an ad client that can love brands like Underman, Master Rick Owens, all this vibe. And then we have a new. I mean, a cool guy that likes upcoming brands and with a. With a more colorful approach, let's say. So we work on these three levels. On the. On the men's side. For sure.
A
For sure. What were some of the conversations you were having with designers when they were telling you about what they thought of would fly in your store or what they were excited that. To present to the customers?
B
Any.
A
Any interesting tidbits?
C
I'm. I'm totally obsessed with this. For me, that. That's important. I love, I love to spend time with them and I mean to understand the process. What's their vision, what's behind even the inspiration, you know, in this moment, everything. It's really. It's really fast and you know, I mean, the market is like that. But I think that it's really. Our store also is not a department store, is a. Is a concept store. So we play, we mix the ideas that you come in our store because of the curation. This is really important. So understanding, sadly from where it comes, everything, I think it's. It's very important to translate this and to create your own vision on this is really, really important. So the curation is. Is the most important thing for us.
A
Yes. Does the designer differentiate that like there's department store, quote unquote, has such a bad name right now with, with how things are going with other. With other stores like does. Was there any hesitancy to. To work with the wholesale model or was it business as usual?
C
No, I can say that. I mean, obviously what is happening is a very creative moment. We can say for sure. And there is tension in the market, for sure. The designer is. They are also trying to understand. They are also trying to. I mean, it's a delicate moment, that's for sure. In the wholesale model. I mean, we support them, we buy the collection directly. And so the idea is to represent. To represent them in a strong way. You know, it's important for me that after we make a selection that we. I mean, I love to make a selection that represent the brand where the brands, they feel represented in a strong way. This is really important and also is done in a way that is our style. You know, I think find this balance is something very, very important. But it's really. It's really a conversation with the design that. That's really important for us.
A
Yes. Well, what a cool job. You get to establish the curation and you're. You're picking and choosing what will be presented to the buyer, the end buyer or shopper. Excuse me, Looking at the collections and knowing what you purchase like, do you. Are you excited for fall? Do you think that there was enough at New York Fashion Week to keep your customer? I mean, there will be more in other weeks, but keep your customer excited. Inspired shopping, all the things.
C
No, absolutely. I think it was an amazing fashion week. And I mean more to come. We are very excited to mix this French European vibe with the New York designers. So we always see the New York Fashion Week has an opportunity to find new emerging design and new things. That are in the market. That's really what is very important for us. For sure.
A
Yeah, absolutely, definitely. Who, who, what? American designers are working really well in your stores these days.
C
So, I mean, we work really well with Tom Ford, for sure.
A
Oh, that's a great one.
C
Absolutely. Tom Ford. I believe that the work that Hackerman is doing is amazing. And the clients, they immediately had perception of, I mean, they, how can I say, the new approach, the new aesthetic that Ida created has been really welcomed from our clients. So this for sure is something that it's performing really well. And then we have even more accessible brands like tb, where it's performing really, really well.
A
Amy Smailovic, I'm her biggest fan.
C
Yeah, she's fantastic. The aesthetic is amazing. We're speaking about collection that is wearable and beautiful, super stylish. So I think she's also a fantastic woman and she has a very clear vision. She, she's, she's launching books. It's about lifestyle. It's not only, you know, about the creative pragmatist.
A
I know everything about her anyway.
C
Yeah, you know.
A
Exactly, exactly, exactly. Oh, my gosh. So fun. In terms of your shopper, are you noticing anything new in terms of their behavior, what they're gravitating toward? And the last maybe six months, like maybe they're taking more to tailored workwear where as opposed to before, it was more casual or. You tell me. I think your customer is unique.
C
I mean, we open in March 25th, so we're going to celebrate our first year anniversary in this March 26th. I mean, our customer is. Is. I can say that from the opening phase until now is a luxury customer. Is a client that wants to have, as I said previously, is the clients that wants to have exclusive products. For sure. This is the direction and then depends from the room and the spaces of the store. It could be casual, could be more elevated, but there's always this sense to find something unique. This for sure is something that has remained from the beginning. I can tell that one brand that we love, that for us, we decided to try at the beginning and now it became like DNA of the store is this beautiful brand that is called Default. I don't know if you're familiar with this brand.
A
No. So I am behind the times.
C
Yeah. Default. No, no, absolutely. Default is a couple. And they, they are working on vintage pieces in a very unique way because they are re embroidering all of them from an Adidas tracksuit to a couture dress, you know, and these unique pieces that you can find in the. All over the store. They became something very iconic. So we have a clients that always come for to. To have the false clothes, for sure. And they are executed in a beautiful way.
A
A loyal following.
C
Definitely. Yeah.
A
Nice. How cool. I'll catch up. And when it comes, when it comes to the weeks ahead, what are you most excited about? Excited to see? Think they'll be really good for you.
C
I mean, the. The Paris Fashion Week, it's really, really, really important, obviously. And I have my showrooms that are difficult to find where you can discover and see new brands, that's for sure. It's the part that is always very interesting for me. Yeah, absolutely.
A
Oh, my gosh. And my last question, which is so random, but visiting the store for the first time over the weekend, I have to tell you, I really wanted. I wanted to buy something. I'm in New York probably twice a month, but I kind of wanted a souvenir. And so I was looking for something that like kind of merged, that said pronto and. And all I had saw was like the bon bons or the candies and that was kind of branded. And I was like. And I think that's probably maybe not your style. Is that ever coming? Is that happening in France? Tell me, am I missing. You mean like, like something branded? Yeah, absolutely.
C
We had the capsule collection for the opening of the store that was a Bonjour New York collection that was sold out like crazy. So for sure we will have again, Bonjour New York collection. And we have. We will have a special collaboration with the niche independent French brands, always print and branded. Yeah, for sure, for sure. Capsule collection to discover is something that we love. So you will find more in the future.
A
Best news of the day. Silvano, thank you. This was such a pleasure. Thanks for being here today in the middle of all the things. It was great.
C
Thank you so much. Thank you. My pleasure.
A
That's all for this episode. Our theme music is by Otis McDonald. If you liked this episode, be sure to share it with someone else you think would. Thanks for listening to the Glossy podcast.
Podcast: The Glossy Podcast
Host(s): Dani Parisi (Senior Fashion Reporter) with Editor in Chief Jill Manoff
Guest: Silvano Vangi, Creative and Merchandising Director (Head Buyer), Printemps New York
Date: February 20, 2026
This episode of The Glossy Podcast provides a deep dive into New York Fashion Week (NYFW) from the perspective of a top buyer. Jill Manoff and Dani Parisi interview Silvano Vangi, the newly-appointed Creative and Merchandising Director at Printemps New York. The conversation covers how Printemps approaches NYFW, insights into the evolving relationship between brands and buyers, trend observations from the week, and how Printemps curates its unique assortment for its luxury customer.
On Curating for NY Designers:
“The goal of Printemps is really to bring the French designer, the European style in New York...it's important for us to be integrated in the market and represent also this part in a very curated way.” — Silvano Vangi [07:11]
On Exclusive Partnerships:
“We create capsule collections exclusive for the store. We present designers that are not represented in the market. Thirty percent of our offer is based on brands that are not presented in New York.” — Silvano Vangi [17:55]
On Customer Desires:
“Our client is a luxury client, and they're looking always for something unique, exclusive in some way—something that they cannot find.” — Silvano Vangi [16:45]
On Concept Store Curation:
“Our store is not a department store, it’s a concept store... you come in our store because of the curation.” — Silvano Vangi [22:02]
On Designer Relationships in a Changing Wholesale Landscape:
“There is tension in the market, for sure. The designer is... also trying to understand. They are also trying to... I mean, it's a delicate moment, that's for sure. In the wholesale model...we buy the collection directly... the selection represents the brand where the brands feel represented in a strong way.” — Silvano Vangi [23:12]
On Branded Collabs and Souvenirs:
“We had the capsule collection for the opening of the store that was a Bonjour New York collection that was sold out like crazy. So for sure we will have more again.” — Silvano Vangi [29:50]
This episode offers an invaluable peek into the mind of a leading luxury buyer at a pivotal time for both NYFW and retail. Silvano Vangi illustrates how Printemps New York meticulously curates a mix of European and American designers to thrill a discerning, exclusivity-driven clientele. The conversation explores not just the season’s hottest design trends and labels, but also the deeper collaborative and philosophical practices around buying, brand relationships, and maintaining uniqueness in a challenging retail environment.