Podcast Summary: A Buyer's Take on New York Fashion Week, with Printemps New York's Silvano Vangi

Podcast: The Glossy Podcast
Host(s): Dani Parisi (Senior Fashion Reporter) with Editor in Chief Jill Manoff
Guest: Silvano Vangi, Creative and Merchandising Director (Head Buyer), Printemps New York
Date: February 20, 2026

Episode Overview

This episode of The Glossy Podcast provides a deep dive into New York Fashion Week (NYFW) from the perspective of a top buyer. Jill Manoff and Dani Parisi interview Silvano Vangi, the newly-appointed Creative and Merchandising Director at Printemps New York. The conversation covers how Printemps approaches NYFW, insights into the evolving relationship between brands and buyers, trend observations from the week, and how Printemps curates its unique assortment for its luxury customer.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

Printemps New York’s Fashion Week Strategy

• Integration of NY Designers: Now that Printemps has opened in New York, Vangi describes a heightened focus on American designers. “The goal of Printemps is really to bring the French designer, the European style in New York... but the selection of the American designers is really accurate because it's important for us to be integrated in the market and represent also this part in a very curated way.” (07:11)
• Store Experience During NYFW: The week was eventful for Printemps, with ongoing in-store events like Sergio Hudson’s presentation and an interactive “IE Mirror” collaboration with Google, allowing clients to virtually try looks. (08:04)
• Approach to Shows & Buying: Vangi prioritizes seeing collections in-person at showrooms over runway shows. He attends select shows by designers such as Kevin Klein, Proenza, Kate, Public School, Laquan Smith, and Campillo. “It's super important to see the collection in real, to see the fit, to see on the model, to touch the fabrics.” (09:16)

Trends and Fresh Perspectives from NYFW

• Exciting Designers and Details: Vangi highlights Patricio Campillo’s heritage-driven approach and new foray into leather accessories, as well as Willy Chavarria’s debut women’s collection at Printemps’s “iconic red room." (10:31)
• Key Aesthetics: There’s a focus on minimalism with an artistic twist, particularly in brands like Klein, as well as bold eveningwear, such as from Laquan Smith. Printemps organizes the store like a "French apartment," with distinct rooms representing different vibes: Playroom (emerging designers), Salon (chic minimalism), Boudoir (haute couture, evening). (14:29)
• Exclusive Offerings: “We create capsule collections exclusive for the store... 30% of our offer is based on brands that are not presented in New York.” (17:55)

Buying Philosophy & Client Insights

• Collaborative Buying: Printemps works closely with designers, sometimes co-creating exclusive colors or pieces suited for their clientele. Vangi notes that while exclusivity demands special production runs, brands see value in the exposure and events Printemps offers. (18:24)
• Customer Profile: The Printemps customer is luxury-focused and seeks unique, exclusive products—covering everything from high-end workwear to gala-ready eveningwear. “Our client is a luxury client, and they're looking always for something unique, exclusive in some way, something that they cannot find.” (16:45)
• Menswear Segments: Three main types: Wall Street professionals (tailoring), avant-garde/edgy customer (e.g., Rick Owens), and the trend-driven "cool guy" interested in upcoming, colorful brands. (20:59)

Designer & Brand Relationships

• Position as a Concept Store: Amidst hesitation around department store wholesale relationships, Vangi positions Printemps as a concept store rooted in curation, not volume. “Our store is not a department store, it’s a concept store. So we play, we mix the ideas... you come in our store because of the curation.” (22:02)
• Brands Performing Well: Tom Ford, under Peter Hawkings, is performing very well with customers, who embraced the new creative direction. Tibi (“Amy Smilovic... the aesthetic is amazing, wearable and super stylish.” [26:10]), as well as accessible luxury options, are also noted. (25:25)
• Introducing New Labels: Vangi shares enthusiasm for brands he’s newly carrying, like Public School: “There’s a look that’s very modern, has a touch of fashion in the right way... beautiful sartorial taste, attention on detail.” (20:00)
• Emergent Brands: The brand Default, specializing in unique hand-embroidered vintage pieces, has become a key part of the Printemps DNA, building a loyal following. (27:59)

Evolving Customer and Looking Ahead

• Customer Evolution: After almost a year since opening, Printemps New York’s clientele remains loyal to the exclusivity and uniqueness of the offering. “From the opening phase until now, our customer is a luxury customer... there’s always this sense to find something unique.” (27:00)
• Upcoming Excitement: Vangi looks ahead to Paris Fashion Week as another essential opportunity for new discoveries and further curation for the store. (28:50)

Store Identity & Branded Collections

• Store Branding: In response to Jill’s question about Printemps-branded “souvenir” merchandise, Vangi revealed that a limited “Bonjour New York” capsule sold out immediately and more branded collaborations are coming. (29:50)

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• On Curating for NY Designers:
  “The goal of Printemps is really to bring the French designer, the European style in New York...it's important for us to be integrated in the market and represent also this part in a very curated way.” — Silvano Vangi [07:11]

• On Exclusive Partnerships:
  “We create capsule collections exclusive for the store. We present designers that are not represented in the market. Thirty percent of our offer is based on brands that are not presented in New York.” — Silvano Vangi [17:55]

• On Customer Desires:
  “Our client is a luxury client, and they're looking always for something unique, exclusive in some way—something that they cannot find.” — Silvano Vangi [16:45]

• On Concept Store Curation:
  “Our store is not a department store, it’s a concept store... you come in our store because of the curation.” — Silvano Vangi [22:02]

• On Designer Relationships in a Changing Wholesale Landscape:
  “There is tension in the market, for sure. The designer is... also trying to understand. They are also trying to... I mean, it's a delicate moment, that's for sure. In the wholesale model...we buy the collection directly... the selection represents the brand where the brands feel represented in a strong way.” — Silvano Vangi [23:12]

• On Branded Collabs and Souvenirs:
  “We had the capsule collection for the opening of the store that was a Bonjour New York collection that was sold out like crazy. So for sure we will have more again.” — Silvano Vangi [29:50]

Timestamps for Important Segments

• [05:56] — Interview introduction: Silvano Vangi joins the conversation
• [07:11] — Vangi's overall take on NYFW and Printemps’s strategy
• [09:16] — How Silvano approaches market appointments, showroom visits, and show attendance
• [10:31] — Standout designers: Campillo, Willy Chavarria, and the importance of backstory
• [14:29] — Store layout & curation philosophy (French apartment, rooms by aesthetic)
• [16:45] — Understanding the Printemps luxury client
• [17:55] — Building exclusives, co-developing with designers, and new-to-NYC brands
• [20:00] — New labels in the mix: Public School
• [20:59] — Printemps men's client segments described
• [22:02] — Defining Printemps as a curated concept store vs. a department store
• [23:12] — Buyer-designer relationships amid wholesale market tensions
• [25:25] — Top-performing American brands: Tom Ford, Tibi
• [27:59] — The story behind Default, a cult favorite within Printemps’s assortment
• [28:50] — Anticipation for Paris Fashion Week and further discoveries
• [29:50] — Printemps-branded capsules and future branded merchandise

Conclusion

This episode offers an invaluable peek into the mind of a leading luxury buyer at a pivotal time for both NYFW and retail. Silvano Vangi illustrates how Printemps New York meticulously curates a mix of European and American designers to thrill a discerning, exclusivity-driven clientele. The conversation explores not just the season’s hottest design trends and labels, but also the deeper collaborative and philosophical practices around buying, brand relationships, and maintaining uniqueness in a challenging retail environment.