The Glossy Podcast

Episode: Burberry’s Turnaround and the New Era of London Fashion Week
Date: September 19, 2025
Host: Zafia Zwieglinska (Glossy International Reporter)
Guest: Jill Manoff
Special Guest Commentator: Luca Kasolka (Senior Fashion Analyst, Bernstein)

Overview

This episode of The Glossy Podcast dives into the dramatic changes shaking up London Fashion Week (LFW) and the ongoing renaissance at Burberry, one of Britain’s most iconic luxury brands. Host Zafia Zwieglinska, reporting live from London, is joined by Jill Manoff to analyze the BFC's (British Fashion Council) new approach, discuss the evolving creative and commercial positioning of LFW, and explore Burberry's turbulent recent years—including its renewed focus on British heritage and the strategy under new CEO Joshua Schulman. The episode also features analyst insights from Luca Kasolka.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

1. London Fashion Week in Flux (00:39–09:38)

• Background Context: LFW 2025 is marked as the busiest and most politically charged iteration in years, coinciding with a high-profile visit from President Trump and intense debates in Parliament regarding the value of fashion as a cultural and economic asset.
• BFC Reforms: Laura Weyer, new BFC head, has made LFW free for designers, doubled funds for international media/buyers, and prioritized education and scouting beyond London—especially collaborating with regions like Manchester (00:39–01:24).
  • “Her goal is to make London a stronger global fashion capital, both creative and commercially, breaking down some barriers and giving designers more support to grow.” —Zafia Zwieglinska [01:10]
• VAT-Free Shopping Debate: Ongoing frustrations from luxury brands about the lack of tax-free shopping for tourists, potentially sending high-spend shoppers to Paris and Milan (01:24–01:50).
• Financial Underpinnings & Sponsors: Speculation about funding, noting the increasing presence of commercial partners—from fast fashion (Zara x Harry Lambert, H&M) to major media sponsorship and ticketed events (03:27–03:51).
• Emerging & Established Designers: Highlight on brands to watch, e.g., Rixo, Adeline, Leigh, Patrick McDowell, Gen Lee, and The Ooze—with a shout-out to Burberry as the week's anchor and only true British luxury brand on the LFW schedule (03:51–04:58).

2. London’s Niche in the Global Fashion Ecosystem (04:58–09:38)

• Shift in London’s Identity: LFW has moved beyond its former “grit and edge” reputation, retaining its edge as a “testing ground” for emerging concepts (minimalism, sustainability, diverse influences) but with more commercial ambitions.
  • “London is still very much the testing ground—the place for newer ideas and also a good stage for emerging designers who are showing up with something different and maybe slightly less commercial.” —Zafia Zwieglinska [07:19]
• Comparative Fashion Capitals: London’s openness to experimentation is contrasted with the more “editorial” aesthetic of Paris and the design/interior focus of Milan. New York is described as “advanced contemporary.”
• Ticketed Events and Trade-Show Elements: Rise in panels and workshops, broadening LFW’s accessibility and engagement (03:51–04:58).

3. Burberry’s Tumultuous Recent History (10:24–12:53)

• Rapid Creative/Executive Turnover:
  • Riccardo Tisci’s era (pre-2022): Streetwear, gothic codes, Helvetica rebrand, price hikes, and some brand identity confusion.
  • Daniel Lee’s arrival (late 2022): Ex-Bottega creative director brings bold colors, but sales continue to stagnate under CEO Jonathan Aykroyd.
  • Ongoing profit warnings and layoffs, removal from the FTSE—all leading up to a crisis point in 2024.
• Joshua Schulman’s Arrival:
  • Schulman (ex-Michael Kors/Coach) named CEO July 2024, launches Burberry Forward strategy in November—a disciplined reset focused on heritage and British classics, especially accessories (10:24–12:53).
  • “He was previously at Michael Kors and Coach...emblematic to the accessories market in the US—something Burberry was sorely missing.” —Zafia Zwieglinska [11:30]

4. The Christopher Bailey Era: A Lost Golden Age (12:53–14:32)

• Stability and Expansion: Bailey’s 17-year tenure (with ex-CEO Angela Ahrendts) saw Burberry’s clear identity flourish—classic trench coats and iconic campaign faces—reaching £3 billion in sales.
• Departure and Aftermath:
  • “When he left, what a loss...When you know your shopper is a luxury shopper and they've come to love him, that's a hard leap.” —Jill Manoff [13:39]
  • The transition to “streetwear” under Tisci created disconnects with Burberry’s loyal audience.

5. The Schulman Reset: Operations, Marketing & Products (15:23–21:28)

• Classic Britishness & Heritage Refocus:
  • Trench coats, scarves, wellies—“good, better, best” pricing strategy, and personalized “scarf bars” in 200 stores.
• Cost Cutting & Team Streamlining: Over £40 million in cuts, focusing on accessories and retail experience.
• Campaigns and Marketing Revamp:
  • Jonathan Kyman (CMO, Sep 2024) and agency partners introduce irreverent, contemporary campaigns featuring TikTok personalities, iconic British figures, and “Full Metal Armour” knights.
    • “There's been some things with the knight popping up in a literal kind of Full Metal Armour suit, which I think has been so, so fun.” —Zafia Zwieglinska [17:13]
  • “It's Always Burberry Weather” campaign and festival-focused initiatives tie in music culture and British icons like Liam Gallagher, Cara Delevingne, Alexa Chung (17:09–19:09).

6. Brand Perceptions and the Push for Innovation (19:09–21:28)

• Heritage vs. Innovation Balance: Burberry aspires to maintain its storied tradition while chasing a forward-thinking, creative edge.
• Market Reception:
  • “Wholesale buyers are saying it’s Burberry’s strongest collection in three years...the brand has reached a turnaround point.” —Zafia Zwieglinska [20:54]
• Still-Striving for Hero Products: Discussion about Daniel Lee’s potential to create “It bags” akin to his Bottega days—while initial accessory launches like the “B Clip” bag haven’t gained viral traction (28:25–30:16).

7. Analyst Insights on the Burberry Turnaround (24:38–32:50)

Luca Kasolka, Bernstein Analyst, on the Burberry reset:

• “The idea of going back to the British roots ... seems a lot more relevant to consumers.” [24:38]
• Heritage items (trench coat, parkas, scarves, checks) are ideally positioned for a premium price point.
• Direct-to-Consumer Priority & Wholesale Retreat:
  • “Direct retail gives you tighter grip on how you execute your marketing mix and importantly on how you control your pricing and price. Discipline, I think is one of the most important sports of perceived exclusivity.” [31:34]
  • Previously heavy discounting and inventory-clearing damaged perceived exclusivity; moving to DTC is crucial.
• Need for Newness & Excitement: Post-pandemic, brands can’t just hike prices—they must intrigue and emotionally engage consumers with creative product and marketing.

8. Ongoing Challenges for Burberry (32:50–36:12)

• Store Experience & Productivity:
  • Flagship stores (e.g., London Regent Street) noted for grandeur, but questionable sales efficiency; opportunity to increase engagement with accessibility, customization (scarf bars/monogramming), and immersive experiences.
    • “The store...is very big, but maybe not quite something that I would say is a productive sales channel...maybe the customers...are going to feel quite as welcome as, you know, if they'd be going to a slightly cheaper brand.” —Zafia Zwieglinska [33:48]
• Marketing Tone: Suggestions for a less polished, more “raw” and approachable social media presence to resonate with next-gen luxury customers.

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• “Her goal is to make London a stronger global fashion capital, both creative and commercially, breaking down some barriers and giving designers more support to grow.”
  —Zafia Zwieglinska [01:10]

• “London is still very much the testing ground—the place for newer ideas and also a good stage for emerging designers who are showing up with something different and maybe slightly less commercial.”
  —Zafia Zwieglinska [07:19]

• “What a loss. Like, it was kind of like, what do we do now? 17 years is a long ass time for a creative director. And when you know your shopper is a luxury shopper... that's a hard leap.”
  —Jill Manoff on Christopher Bailey’s departure [13:39]

• “There's been some things with the knight popping up in a literal kind of Full Metal Armour suit, which I think has been so, so fun.”
  —Zafia Zwieglinska [17:13]

• “If American preppy with Ralph Lauren is working, I don't know why British classic with Burberry wouldn’t work.”
  —Luca Kasolka [24:38]

• “Direct retail gives you tighter grip on how you execute your marketing mix and importantly on how you control your pricing and price. Discipline, I think, is one of the most important sports of perceived exclusivity.”
  —Luca Kasolka [31:34]

Key Timestamps

• 00:39–01:24: Political/economic context for LFW 2025; BFC’s strategic changes
• 02:20–04:58: LFW’s sponsorship structure and featured designers
• 06:13–08:41: London’s unique space in global fashion; emerging and advanced contemporary
• 10:24–12:53: Burberry’s tumultuous leadership transitions
• 15:23–16:12: Schulman’s operational reset—pricing, product focus, scarf bars
• 17:09–19:09: Burberry’s new, cheeky marketing campaigns
• 24:38–26:19: Analyst commentary on the value of British heritage and pricing strategy
• 31:34–32:50: Luca Kasolka on DTC vs wholesale and exclusivity
• 33:48–36:12: In-store experience shortcomings and opportunities

Conclusion

This episode captures both the macro- and micro-level changes shaping the future of British fashion and the comeback of an iconic brand. London Fashion Week’s more inclusive, commercially savvy format widens the stage for both established and emerging labels, while Burberry, under new leadership, is rediscovering its roots and leveraging heritage for renewed relevance. The conversation acknowledges challenges—in product buzz, retail channel productivity, and balancing accessibility with exclusivity—but the tone is optimistic. As Zafia and Jill close, the fashion world is watching for the next signals from Burberry and London’s creative vanguard.

Keep up with Glossy’s expanding coverage throughout Fashion Month.