The Glossy Podcast – Episode Summary

Episode: Collina Strada’s Hillary Taymour on runway value and independent brand survival
Date: September 12, 2025
Host: Zafir Zvaglinska
Guest: Hillary Taymour, Founder & Creative Director of Collina Strada

Episode Overview

In this New York Fashion Week special, Zafir Zvaglinska sits down with Collina Strada’s Hillary Taymour to discuss the evolving landscape of fashion shows, the economics of being an independent designer, and how brands survive—and even thrive—amid industry contraction and macroeconomic uncertainty. Taymour pulls back the curtain on why Collina Strada still shows on the runway, how her team’s creative approach and business strategy adapt to changing realities like rising costs, the diminishing role of wholesale, and the need for flexible, direct-to-consumer models.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

1. Who Is Fashion Week For in 2025?

• Runway as Marketing Tool: Taymour sees Fashion Week as “purely to continue the marketing of what Collina Strada is,” emphasizing attention and storytelling for direct-to-consumer (DTC) audiences rather than legacy retail buyers.

  “It is just a ton of attention on us at that moment for our shoppers, essentially.” (02:25)

• Strategic Drops: Collina Strada coordinates product launches—like the Awe Inspired jewelry collab—to coincide with their runway shows, directly driving sales and offsetting show costs.

  “Typically, we'd like to drop a collab at the day of the show … which was really helpful for marketing and helpful for sales.” (02:39)

2. The Creative Vision: "Shadow Self" Show

• Concept: The Fall 2025 show presents every model in a colorful Collina Strada look, each followed by a “shadow”—an identical look in black, visually symbolizing the inescapable consequences that follow every choice.

  “Everyone's being followed by their shadow, which is a … completely black version of the look, which is following them.” (03:38)

• Deeper Meaning: The “shadow” is a metaphor for collective and individual histories, policies, and invisible systems trailing behind societal progress.

  “The shadows represent the policies, histories and systems that trail behind. Invisible to some and glaring, obvious to others.” (05:09)
  “It’s a way … we could kind of incorporate this commercial level clothing on the runway, but still see it visually as the Collina Strada viewer.” (04:30)

• Political Undertones: The shadow motif reflects the political complexities of 2025 in the U.S.—a reminder of the weight of both personal and imposed choices.

3. The Value of Creative Independence & Disruption

• Venue & Format: Taymour insists on independence when it comes to show formats and venues, embracing non-conformity and authenticity.

  “Collina Strada has never really followed the rules of fashion, and that's what makes it unique, and that's what makes it interesting.” (07:31)

• Relevance Beyond Calendars: She argues that the impact of a show comes from the moment and execution, not from being on or off a “schedule” like NYFW’s central venues.

  “You can make showing off the schedule as impactful as showing in … New York Fashion Week or Paris Fashion Week … it's going to be impactful whether or not it's in a calendar or not.” (27:29)

4. The Real (and Rising) Cost of Showing

• Show Expenses: Production costs can range significantly based on venue, lighting, and set design; industry expectations rise as a label matures, and so do prices.

  “You can't really cross a path without spending fifty grand in certain places for those types of things.” (10:21)

• Evolving Economics: As Collina Strada moves beyond “emerging” status, suppliers charge higher (and fairer) rates—an evolution Taymour supports.

  “You're not getting those, like, emerging designer, like, I'll walk for free price.” (10:40)

5. Marketing Moments: Why Dinners Don’t Work (anymore)

• Shift from Dinners to Experience: Taymour now considers dinners less effective for marketing and sees legacy events as too exclusive and impermanent.

  “I don't think dinners work anymore. … A dinner is great as a celebration, but … you can't see the product, can't incorporate it with themselves.” (11:57)

• Events Need to Engage: Collaborations or parties (like Collina Strada x UGG) that engage attendees directly and generate buzz are more valuable.

  “It becomes more of a spoken moment.” (12:36)

• Legacy of Visuals: Runway shows and lookbooks have enduring value, referenced long after the event.

6. Collaborations That Count

• Control & Authenticity: All Collina Strada brand collaborations are hands-on and fully customized, moving away from generic product placements.

  “I design all the products myself with the brand … everything's quite customized to create that Collina world.” (13:47)

• Footwear Expansion: Footwear collaborations—like with Converse—allow for greater creative expression and demonstrate how a brand can own a category through collaboration.

  “I was always a Vans girl … how can I go around creating a Converse that I will wear and love?” (14:32)

7. Wholesale Realities & Industry Upheaval

• Shift Away from Wholesale: In light of major retailer bankruptcies (Barneys, now Essence), Taymour is vocal about not relying on wholesale for survival.

  “I've never relied on wholesale orders to support the business … now that part of the business is completely helpful but irrelevant to our success.” (17:14)

• DTC is the Future: Direct-to-consumer and owning their own retail store anchors the business.

  “DTC is our biggest part of the business.” (17:49)

8. Financial Survival for Independents

• Business Fundamentals: Taymour emphasizes diligence: tracking sales, costs, and being “on top” of the business daily.

  “I'm very on top of our numbers. I understand what's coming in, what's coming out, I make sure I can pay our employees.” (19:48)

• Independent Designer Tips: For emerging brands, honesty with customers, investing in DTC, and creative pivots are critical.

  “I would be really honest on social media and tell your followers your position … get your stock back or not. Ship your fall order and start growing your online business.” (21:55)

• Masterclass on OnlyFans: Plans to run a charity “Masterclass” with OnlyFans, advising young designers on dealing with industry upheaval.

  “I'm going to do a Masterclass on my OnlyFans as a partnership … tips about what to do with your Essence order and how to start growing your DTC.” (23:47)

9. The Complicated Economics of Sustainability

• Challenges: Sustainability remains a brand pillar, but rising tariffs and costs make it harder for both brands and customers.

  “We have seen a trend where people care less and less about it … if you want a sustainable garment, … costs are going to continue to go up.” (25:21)

• Price Realities: Collina Strada tries to absorb cost increases, but educating consumers is necessary given the real costs of ethical manufacturing.

10. The Real Value of Fashion Week: Stepping Stones, Not Elevators

• Long-Term Growth: A fashion show isn’t a magic shortcut to success; each show is a gradual, incremental step.

  “Every step of my career is like a stepping stone up. I never feel like I like, gotten an elevator, if that makes sense.” (29:54)

• Skepticism on ‘Instant’ Relevance: Grand success stories often overshadow the small, steady gains that build a sustainable brand.

  “To think that you're just going to get a huge jumpstart from doing a show is an ignorant way to think.” (30:20)

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• On the function of fashion week:

  “For us, we show purely to continue the marketing of what Collina Strada is … It's more of a marketing thing for us.” – Hillary Taymour (02:01)

• On the “shadow self” runway:

  “The shadows represent the policies, histories and systems that trail behind. Invisible to some and glaring, obvious to others. The collection challenges the spectacle of progress.” – Hillary Taymour (05:09)

• On independence & creative uniqueness:

  “Collina Strada has never really followed the rules of fashion, and that's what makes it unique, and that's what makes it interesting.” – Hillary Taymour (07:31)

• On riding the industry’s economic rollercoaster:

  “There was days growing up where I was like, where am I getting at $50,000? And I'd be like lying in bed awake at night crying because I didn't know where I was going to get the money … thankfully, I've created a cushion for myself.” – Hillary Taymour (20:44)

• On achieving success:

  “Every step of my career is like a stepping stone up. I never feel like I like, gotten an elevator… Those are … small climbing steps to where you see yourself in the next five years.” – Hillary Taymour (29:52)

• On DTC advice for young designers:

  “Get the word out about the brand that they can now buy online directly from you and start building your customer base.” – Hillary Taymour (21:55)

• On the value of a show:

  “A show in a lookbook sits forever to be referenced by stylists, other brands. … It just has, like, more of a legacy.” – Hillary Taymour (12:54)

Important Timestamps

• 02:01 – Taymour on who Fashion Week is for (brand marketing & DTC focus)
• 03:24 – The “shadow self” show concept
• 05:09 – Shadow metaphor's meaning and political undertones
• 07:31 – On creative independence in show formats and venues
• 10:08 – Financial realities of staging a show
• 11:55 – Dinners vs. runway shows as marketing moments
• 13:47 – Evolution and strategy behind collaborations
• 16:56 – On not relying on wholesale and DTC focus
• 19:19 – Managing finances and economic agility
• 21:55 – Practical tips for emerging brands
• 23:36 – Announcing the OnlyFans masterclass for designers
• 25:21 – Reality of sustainable fashion in 2025
• 27:29 – The ongoing debate over the “relevance” of NYFW
• 29:54 – The “stepping stone” philosophy for brand growth

Episode Conclusion

This candid conversation with Hillary Taymour reveals an unvarnished view into the realities of running an independent fashion brand in 2025. From the necessity of runway shows as high-impact marketing, to resilience in the face of economic shocks and creative disruption, Taymour’s perspective is honest, strategic, and implacably authentic—an essential listen for anyone interested in fashion’s present and future.

Listen to the full episode for more, or catch Hillary Taymour's OnlyFans “Masterclass” for hands-on survival strategies.