The Glossy Podcast
Episode: How to Dress an NBA Star, with Stylist Courtney Mays
Date: February 13, 2026
Host: Danny Parisi (with Zofia Zviglinska) | Guest: Courtney Mays
Episode Overview
This episode delves into the dynamic intersection of fashion, sport, and culture through the lens of NBA (and WNBA) player style, as seen—and shaped—by veteran stylist Courtney Mays. Mays, who works with an elite roster of athletes (including Karl-Anthony Towns, DeAndre Jordan, Chris Paul, Kevin Love, Sue Bird, Breanna Stewart, Megan Rapinoe, and Anthony Anderson), discusses the evolution of NBA style from the imposition of the infamous dress code to today’s culture-defining tunnel walks. She shares insider perspective on how styling NBA players has changed, the challenges of working with brands, the importance of authenticity, and how player fashion is now a crucial part of sports viewership.
Key Discussion Points & Insights
The NBA Dress Code: From Restriction to Expression
- Historical context:
In 2005, the NBA introduced a formal dress code mandating “business or conservative attire” and banning items like jeans, hats, durags, T-shirts, large jewelry, and Timberland boots. - Cultural impact:
Mays describes the dress code as an attempt to “disconnect from hip hop culture—and, in a way, blackness” (08:00), and recounts how it sought to sanitize players’ identities after incidents like the Malice at the Palace. - Fashion’s power:
Over time, players and stylists have "flipped it on its side and made [fashion] part of the storytelling" of the sport, so that "you care as much about the game as you care about what insert whatever player is wearing" (09:49).
The Stylist’s Role: Beyond the Clothes
- Building authentic narratives:
Mays emphasizes the importance of understanding clients’ interests, off-court ambitions, and values, using style to amplify their off-court identities and business potential (12:09).- “My role is to figure out ways that fashion can be a platform to have those conversations and to build their business off the court.” (12:26)
- Leadership through style:
Example: When working with Chris Paul as Players Association president, suiting choices reflected his leadership both on and off the court (13:45).
Breaking Down Barriers with Brands
- Early hurdles:
NBA players often didn’t fit sample sizes; brands were slow to embrace athletes, especially tall, broad, Black men and queer women. Mays recalls having to “beg” to even get products (15:45). - Progress and setbacks:
The industry has slowly become more inclusive, but struggles remain around size, race, and exclusivity, especially with luxury brands. “Fashion is still trying to figure out sports.” (34:11)
The Tunnel Walk: A Global Stage
- The rise of “tunnel fits”:
The NBA tunnel is now a culture-defining fashion moment, with stylists and teams curating images that are widely shared and scrutinized (10:24, 34:20). - Brand involvement:
Contrary to popular belief, many players buy their own clothes for tunnel moments; not all looks are sponsored or loaned. Players’ personal purchases fuel authenticity (22:33).
Notable Brands and Collaborations
- Leading brands:
- Thom Browne: Known for tailoring to NBA/WNBA body types and engaging directly. “He...understands the power of sport and style as, you know, synonymous.” (23:18)
- David Yurman (Jewelry): Their ambassador program showcased the diversity of player style and helped normalize men’s jewelry in sports (25:56).
- Coach: Notably revitalized its brand by integrating WNBA partnerships (41:03).
- Sticking to the look:
Mays explains the importance of wearing a designer’s look as a full ensemble to build trust and increase future opportunities: “You want to give them the full package...” (30:16).
The Business Side of Tunnel Walks
- Endorsements and exclusivity:
Hard lines exist for sneaker endorsements (e.g., a Nike athlete won't show up in Adidas). Full-brand dressing is often necessary in sponsored settings (28:13). - Managing exposure:
Mays strategizes which games or arenas will yield the best fashion photography and brand impact. “You need somebody on your side...connecting with the photographer, the brand, the team, to make sure they get the full package, which is really the image.” (36:26)
Social Media, Influence & Generational Change
- Athletes as influencers:
Many veteran athletes are reticent to embrace influencer culture, but younger players—raised on social media—are more open, sharing outfit credits, engaging brands, and connecting with fans (37:50). - Authenticity above all:
Fans quickly spot inauthentic partnerships; sustainable brand success comes from genuine, values-driven collaborations, as seen in Chris Paul’s engagement with HBCUs (44:08).
Memorable Quotes & Moments
-
On the original NBA dress code:
“It was their attempt to strip players of their identity. But I love that what we’ve done is flipped it on its side and made it part of the storytelling.”
— Courtney Mays (09:12) -
On selling brands on the idea of NBA fashion:
“There’s a lot of misconception about the way athletes and celebrities get clothes in general...There’s a process that goes with it. You know, when we first started, no, brands were not...fashion was not interested in sports, which is crazy.”
— Courtney Mays (15:43) -
On team photography and strategic exposure:
“I know not to wear that look in Sacramento because we’re not going to get a great photo. But I know we have to wear it in Chicago because I know exactly where that photo [will come from]...”
— Courtney Mays (34:54) -
On authenticity and fan perception:
“Fans know when you’re not being authentic...That’s why as a stylist, I’m wanting to stay true to the style sensibility of the player...”
— Courtney Mays (44:03) -
On the expanding role of the stylist:
“You become a publicist, [managing] the relationship between the brands, the athletes, and their teams as well.”
— (37:14)
Noteworthy Timestamps
- Dress code history & cultural impact: 06:00 – 11:20
- Role and evolution of NBA styling: 11:21 – 15:43
- Brand relations & barriers: 15:43 – 21:45
- Which brands are doing it well: 22:32 – 25:56
- Jewelry and accessories in athlete style: 25:56 – 28:10
- Brand/exposure management: 28:11 – 35:57
- Styling beyond fashion, athlete as influencer: 36:54 – 41:01
- Wider cultural impact, women in sport, and authenticity: 41:02 – 46:44
Tone & Language
This conversation is frank, insightful, and delivered with warmth and expertise. Courtney Mays is earnest and unafraid to discuss the gritty realities of the fashion industry while clearly passionate about athlete empowerment through authentic style.
Summary Takeaway
Fashion and sport have become inseparable in the NBA and WNBA, not just as a matter of dress but as a statement of identity, business ambition, and community engagement. With stylists like Courtney Mays, tunnel walks have become more than performance entrances—they are culture-shifting moments that drive brand narratives, social media engagement, and authentic storytelling. As the sports-fashion ecosystem evolves, authenticity, inclusivity, and strategic partnership are key to sustaining this new era of style.
