The Glossy Podcast

Episode: Kicking off New York Fashion Week with a Look at What's to Come This Week

Date: September 11, 2025
Host: Danny Parisi (A), with Jill Manoff (C) and Zofia Zvyglinska (B)

Overview

To mark the start of New York Fashion Week (NYFW) and Fashion Month, the Glossy team gathers to preview the upcoming week’s shows, discuss shifting logistics, shifting designer strategies, and what these changes reveal about the evolving identity of NYFW. The trio explores topics such as venue experimentation, affordability trends shaping presentations, significant showcases and brands to watch, and emerging shifts toward more intimate or minimalist formats. They round off contemplating NYFW’s current identity amid pressures from global fashion capitals.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

1. Venue Consolidation Experiment and Logistics (00:20–08:13)

• Recent History of NYFW Venues:

  • Danny opens by recalling how NYFW has “spread out way more than it used to be,” requiring journalists to trek to multiple far-flung venues (Brooklyn, Chelsea, Soho), compared to the historic Bryant Park and Lincoln Center days.
    • “Last season, I literally was, like, trucking it to Brooklyn and then back to Chelsea and then down to Soho, and it was definitely a little bit annoying.” — Danny (A) [01:36]

• New Initiative: The Venue Collective by KFN:

  • This season, KFN and the CFDA are piloting the "Venue Collective"—creating a ‘campus’ of venues in Lower Manhattan for about 30 designers, aiming for cost-effective, community-oriented shows. Big participating designers include Off White, Altazara, Simkai, Tibby, Sergio Hudson.
  • Skepticism persists about how consolidated things will really feel, as some designers don’t seem fully aware of the initiative, and schedules still look scattered for some attendees.
    • “I don't see any overlap. Some people there is a show at Spring Studios. There is. Some folks are showing in their showroom or at their store. But yeah, I'm not seeing this convenience, alleged convenience.” — Jill (C) [04:49]

• Perspective from KFN Organizer:

  • Zofia shares insights from Imad Izamrain of KFN, stressing the cultural ambition for NYFW and making unique, high-profile locations affordable through shared spaces, flexible rentals, and support with production (lighting, etc.).
    • Designers didn’t want to share the same space on the same day due to the logistical demands of quick changeovers after months of planning.
    • “The idea is that it's going to be something that they don't have to pay for ... and KFN is kind of taking care of lighting. If they want the production side of things, they're very experienced so they can also help with that side of things.” — Zofia (B) [04:49]

2. Affordability, Presentations, and Showroom Trends (08:13–12:06)

• Showroom & In-Store Presentations:

  • Mid-tier designers are pooling resources in hubs, while emerging designers opt for in-store or showroom presentations to save money and present collections up-close, especially to buyers.
    • “I think the trade off... is that a lot of times...it’s a lot of work to put on a fashion show. And if it’s a shared space...you might need to bring in lots of different...your own decoration, your own sets and stuff...which can be tough.” — Danny (A) [07:00]

• Lifestyle Experiences and Minimalist Aesthetics:

  • Jill highlights designers such as Jenny Kane blending apparel, furniture, and wellness into store-based shows to fully immerse attendees in the brand lifestyle.
  • There’s a visible trend toward ‘minimalist’ presentations — stripping away excess and focusing purely on the clothing, with affordability frequently the subtext.
    • “I've been hearing from a lot of designers that they're like, ‘we're going minimalist this season. Just, like, we're stripping away all the fluff and just focusing on the clothes...But it is. I feel like the subtext is...it's also saving us a lot of money to do it that way.’” – Danny (A) [11:00]

• Cost-saving Tactics:

  • Rachel Comey’s show will see models do their own makeup, sidestepping the need for sponsorships and expediting prep—another sign of practical cost-saving.
    • “I know that you had a little note here about the fact that Rachel Comey's models are doing their makeup and how like, it's very real ... also, you don't have to get a hair and makeup sponsor and it saves you a lot.” — Jill (C) [11:34]

3. Shows & Designers to Watch (12:06–18:55)

• Major Debuts and Creative Transitions:

  • Rachel Scott’s input at Proenza Schouler is highly anticipated; though not her full debut collection, she consulted on the current season’s offering—seen as an early taste of her vision.
    • “So I will be interested to see that as a little preview of what her version of Proenza might look like in future seasons.” – Danny (A) [12:06]
  • Rachel Scott will also be wrapping up at Dyatima, contrasting her creative identities at both brands.

• Consistent Standouts:

  • Todd Snyder gets praise for innovative menswear styling, while Altazara and Alexander Wang are highlighted for luxe merchandising and secretive venue choices (the latter in a newly acquired Chinatown building).
    • “Alexander Wang...back on the show schedule for the first time in two or three years...he just bought...a building in Chinatown...the show seems will be there.” – Jill (C) [13:53]

• Fun Collaborations:

  • Excitement for repeat performances, notably Rachel Antonoff and Susan Alexandra’s dog-and-celebrity show, with celebrity attendees and dogs available for adoption:
    • “Last season they did a dog show and with a bunch of celebrities...the dogs were up for adoption. It was so fun. And this season they're just doing the exact same thing again.” — Danny (A) [15:01]

• Industry Veterans and Emerging Talent:

  • Cynthia Rowley is set for her 101st NYFW show. Hilary Taymor (Collina Strada) also brings focus to supporting emerging designers—via new show strategies and social media.

4. Shift Toward Exclusive, Intimate, or Niche Events (17:31–19:44)

• Invite-Only, Small-Scale Events:

  • Many designers are hosting intimate events: limited seating shows, special brunches (Batsheva), dinners (ADM, Cinta Yohane), or exclusive Nordstrom dinners (Our Legacy). Some shows have split formats, like Tibby offering both an intimate event for top clients and a runway show for press/influencers.

• Big Spectacle? Scaling Back:

  • The team notes a scarcity of “big spectacle” shows. Even major players are opting for smaller, impactful presentations tailored to specific groups (press, influencers, buyers).
    • “I think even for the bigger brands, they're kind of scaling back their shows a little bit. With Calvin Klein, I didn't think that that was a particularly massive launch last season.” — Zofia (B) [20:06]
    • “You think of the big spectacles...entertainment. Like Thom Brown and he's no longer showing in New York.” – Jill (C) [21:13]

5. International Designers and NYFW’s Shifting Identity (22:00–29:59)

• Diminished International Showcases:

  • Notably absent are large, collective international showings (like previous years' Korean, Chinese, or Latin American group sponsorings); this year, the focus is more on American and African designers.
    • “Feel like fewer big kind of international brands or fewer of those show concepts, where it's like a bunch of designers from Korea or...China.” – Danny (A) [22:00]
    • Zofia observes international fashion weeks calling home their native designers to strengthen local prestige, while NYFW skews local and advanced contemporary.

• Contemporary Brands and Commercial Focus:

  • As major US labels (like Willy Chavari, Carolina Herrera) show abroad, NYFW's “identity” shifts: it's increasingly seen as a platform for advanced contemporary brands—sitting just below ultra-luxury, yet still focused on seasonal collections, often at lower price points.
    • “There's a lot of American brands that maybe show at New York Fashion Week and once they get big, they move to Paris or Milan or something...what is kind of New York Fashion Week for?” — Danny (A) [24:35]
    • “There is definitely a shift, an emerging kind of Definition of New York Fashion Week that is contemporary and advanced contemporary. I think these brands are taking over.” — Jill (C) [26:28]

• Speculations on Format Changes:

  • The guests discuss the idea of NYFW moving to only one edition per year (September), citing emerging designer preferences and established brand moves. Jill references Wes Gordon/Carolina Herrera’s multi-city, multi-event approach as a sign of evolving tactics.

6. Style Predictions: Microtrends for the Week (29:59–31:25)

• Accessory and Footwear Trends:

  • The team forecasts a prevalence of Labubu figurines as accessories, flats, ballet sneakers, and windbreakers as dominant “street style” trends.
    • “I think everybody will be wearing cute flats...ballet sneakers...wind parkas coming about. I feel like that's going to be a bit of a trend. Everyone wants to be practical.” — Jill (C), Zofia (B) [30:12–30:39]

• General Wardrobe Mood:

  • Citing Vogue, basic looks like “blazer and jeans” à la Julia Roberts are in, reflecting the week’s more relaxed and practical tone.

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• On Venue Fatigue:
  “A Brooklyn show is just mean when they do that.” — Zofia (B) [01:53]

• On Minimalism-as-Thrift:
  “It’s a little bit like we're using paper plates this time. Just because it's cool, even though it's clearly like to save some money.” — Danny (A) [12:06]

• On International Absence:
  “Feel like fewer big kind of international brands...at least in previous years, has been a big thing concept. Korea would often bring a bunch of Korean brands...Alibaba used to do a thing bringing a bunch of Chinese fashion brands...Latin American versions of kind of the same thing. I feel like I'm seeing less of that.” — Danny (A) [22:00]

• On NYFW’s Evolving Purpose:
  “There is definitely a shift, an emerging kind of definition of New York Fashion Week that is contemporary and advanced contemporary. I think these brands are taking over.” — Jill (C) [26:28]

Segment Timestamps

• 00:20–03:38 | Venue sprawl history and the push for venue consolidation
• 04:49–08:13 | KFN’s Venue Collective: structure, aims, and skepticism
• 08:13–12:06 | Affordability, minimalist trends, showroom presentations
• 13:09–16:23 | Designer highlights and notable shows
• 17:31–19:44 | The rise of exclusive, intimate, off-calendar events
• 20:06–22:00 | Are big spectacle shows disappearing?
• 22:00–24:35 | Observations on international designers and showcases
• 24:35–29:59 | NYFW’s shifting identity: advanced contemporary and commercial models
• 29:59–31:25 | Fashion week microtrends: accessories, footwear, and practical style

Tone & Takeaways

The episode features open, candid industry insiders’ banter, sprinkled with wry humor about the realities of covering NYFW. Through their shared insights, the hosts surface a portrait of an NYFW in flux—shifting toward cost-efficiency, intimacy, and a new generation of brands, even as it wrestles with its place on the international stage.

For those planning to attend, report on, or watch NYFW unfold—expect substance-over-spectacle, a more accessible commercial spirit, and perhaps some surprise hybrid formats shaking up the traditional runway.