NYFW designer Pamella Roland: 'Doing a fashion show is expensive'

Summary

The Glossy Podcast: Detailed Summary of Episode Featuring NYFW Designer Pamela Rowland

Release Date: February 11, 2025

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Introduction

In this compelling episode of The Glossy Podcast, host Dani Parisi engages in an insightful conversation with celebrated New York Fashion Week (NYFW) designer Pamela Rowland. As the founder and creative force behind her esteemed evening wear brand, Pamela shares her extensive experience spanning over two decades in the fashion industry. The discussion delves into her journey with NYFW, the evolution of the event, the intricacies of organizing a fashion show, and invaluable advice for emerging designers.

Pamela Rowland's Early Days at NYFW

Pamela Rowland initiated her foray into the fashion world in 2002, marking her first appearance at NYFW. Contrary to popular belief, her debut show was not at the conventional Bryant Park venue but at the Four Seasons Restaurant. Reflecting on those early moments, Pamela recalls the sense of camaraderie among designers:

"We were part of New York Fashion Week... our very first show was at Four Seasons restaurant." (00:36)

She describes entering the NYFW landscape "blind," without specific expectations, driven by excitement despite the natural nervousness of launching a new brand.

Evolution of NYFW Over Two Decades

Over the years, Pamela has witnessed significant transformations within NYFW. Initially, events like those at Bryant Park fostered a close-knit community among designers, allowing for shared resources and mutual support. Pamela nostalgically remarks:

"Bryant Park was an exciting place to be. I really, really miss it. It was so fantastic." (02:14)

However, as NYFW expanded, the dynamics changed. The shift from communal venues required designers to independently secure and finance their own spaces, escalating costs and logistical complexities. Pamela notes:

"Now everyone's got to get their own place and kind of build their own set or whatever. You know, it's really expensive." (12:11)

Despite these changes, she remains a steadfast NY-based designer, emphasizing her deep-rooted connection to the city's fashion scene.

Upcoming Show at the Rainbow Room

Looking ahead, Pamela is excited about her upcoming show scheduled at the iconic Rainbow Room at Rockefeller Plaza. She shares details about the venue and her inspirations for the collection:

"Our inspiration's London. We have a lot of really great things that we're going to be doing, showing our inspiration." (04:00)

The Rainbow Room offers a versatile ambiance, allowing Pamela to creatively utilize lighting to enhance her London-inspired designs. She appreciates the venue's elegance and functionality, which align perfectly with her brand's aesthetic.

The Process of Organizing a Fashion Show

Pamela provides an in-depth look into the meticulous process of orchestrating a successful fashion show. From conceptualizing the collection to finalizing every detail, she emphasizes the importance of comprehensive planning:

"The first thing you have to do, obviously, before you have a show, is you have to design the collection." (06:26)

Key components discussed include:

• Design and Inspiration: Drawing from art and travel to influence fabric choices and beading techniques.
• Team Coordination: overseeing hair and makeup tests, casting, seating arrangements, and music selection.
• Delegation and Leadership: While Pamela delegates tasks, she maintains a hands-on approach to ensure every element aligns with her vision.

"I definitely am hands on with everything. I know everything that's going on." (07:21)

Challenges and Adaptations

Organizing a fashion show is fraught with challenges, from unexpected technical issues to last-minute model cancellations. Pamela shares anecdotes that highlight her problem-solving mindset:

"I've had shows that the finale, the zipper broke... we have to just keep moving. This is a show and things happen." (08:24)

She underscores the necessity of maintaining composure and adaptability, ensuring that unforeseen issues do not derail the entire event.

Advice for New Designers

Addressing aspiring fashion designers, Pamela offers candid advice on navigating the formidable task of hosting a fashion show:

"Doing a show is so, so expensive. So I think number one, can you afford it? I mean, you don't want to put yourself out of business because you did a show." (11:18)

She emphasizes the importance of financial prudence, suggesting that designers should have a solid foundation before committing to the high costs associated with fashion shows. Pamela also encourages exploring alternative avenues for gaining visibility, such as leveraging social media, especially in today's digital age.

Memories and the Community Aspect

Reflecting on her extensive experience, Pamela fondly reminisces about the collaborative and supportive atmosphere of early NYFW events:

"My favorite memory was Bryant Park. Because you would be able to talk to other designers... there's a lot of value in that." (17:26)

She yearns for the bygone era when designers could effortlessly interact, exchange ideas, and provide mutual encouragement. Pamela acknowledges that while the current landscape is more fragmented, the sense of community from those early days remains a cherished memory.

Conclusion

Pamela Rowland's enduring presence in NYFW serves as a testament to her resilience, creativity, and ability to adapt to an ever-evolving fashion industry. Her insights into the complexities of organizing a fashion show, coupled with her reflections on the transformation of NYFW, provide invaluable lessons for both industry veterans and newcomers alike. As she prepares for her upcoming showcase at the Rainbow Room, Pamela continues to embody the spirit of innovation and dedication that defines The Glossy Podcast.

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Transcript

[Glossy Podcast Host]

Hello, and welcome to the Glossy Podcast.

[Dani Parisi]

I'm senior fashion reporter Dani Parisi, and I'm here with our latest episode of the New York Fashion Week coverage. We are talking to lots of designers and fashion insiders about New York Fashion Week, the shows, the collections, everything that comes with it. This episode, I'm really excited because I'm.

[Glossy Podcast Host]

Joined by Pamela Rowland, who you probably know as the founder and designer of.

[Dani Parisi]

Her namesake brand that's been around, I believe, since the early 2000s.

[Glossy Podcast Host]

Is that right, Pamela?

[Pamela Rowland]

2002.

[Dani Parisi]

Yes, 2002.

[Glossy Podcast Host]

In which I think your first show.

[Dani Parisi]

If Wikipedia is to be believed, was at New York Fashion Week.

[Pamela Rowland]

Oh, yeah. Well, we were part of New York Fashion Week. You know what? No. Our very first show was at Four Seasons restaurant.

[Dani Parisi]

Wow. I mean, so you're. You've been consistently a New York fashion mainstay for a couple decades now, and you're a perfect person to talk to about New York Fashion Week. For those of you listening, if you haven't heard of Pamela Rowland, it's an evening wear brand, I would say, beloved by a vast number of celebrities. Angelina Jolie and Halle Berry. You've also, Pamela, designed a lot of.

[Glossy Podcast Host]

Cool stuff for theatrical productions like the.

[Dani Parisi]

Devil Wears Prada musical.

[Glossy Podcast Host]

I saw you design for the Nashville Symphony recently.

[Dani Parisi]

Just a lot of beautiful couture stuff. And like we said, you have a.

[Glossy Podcast Host]

Long history with New York Fashion Week.

[Dani Parisi]

So thank you so much for being here.

[Pamela Rowland]

Thank you.

[Dani Parisi]

So I want to start by talking about those early days in New York Fashion week back in 2002, when you.

[Glossy Podcast Host]

Were just launching the brand. What was that like?

[Dani Parisi]

I mean, you've been doing this for a couple decades now. What was New York Fashion Week like for a brand new brand just out of the gate?

[Pamela Rowland]

I really. I think I went in so blind, I didn't have any expectations. We were at Bryant park, which was always so nice to be at Bryant park because all the other designers were there. And. And it was really nice. Cause we had a closeness. You know, we're all there together, and it's really, really exciting. I think definitely more nervous. I've done it now for many years, so the nerves aren't as high, but very excited, and you know what's gonna happen. And it just. There's. Bryant park was an exciting place to be. I really, really miss it. It was so fantastic.

[Unnamed Guest]

Yeah.

[Glossy Podcast Host]

And had you attended shows before that?

[Dani Parisi]

Like, what was your fashion background before the debut of the brand?

[Pamela Rowland]

Yes, I had. Zhang Toy and I are very good friends. In fact, he's gonna be at the show. I attended his shows quite a few shows before that. Yes. In fact, I was here 2001 during the 9 11, and I was backstage waiting to go into a show when they cleared us all out.

[Dani Parisi]

Wow. At Bryant park, you know, I never considered, but September is when Fashion Week is happening, so I never even thought of that happening right in the middle.

[Glossy Podcast Host]

Of New York Fashion Week.

[Dani Parisi]

That must have been wild. And then the very next year, there you were with your first collection.

[Pamela Rowland]

I was going to shows, starting to put my business together and obviously had a little bit of a break after 9 11, so.

[Unnamed Guest]

Yeah.

[Pamela Rowland]

And I'd only been in New York one night and then bang.

[Unnamed Guest]

Yeah.

[Pamela Rowland]

And they didn't shoot us all out. We were all on the streets and, you know, cabs are gone. It was kind of chaotic.

[Glossy Podcast Host]

So what was the mood like next.

[Dani Parisi]

Year then, when people were returning? Was that the first New York fashion week after 9 11, did they do February?

[Pamela Rowland]

Yes. I think a lot of apprehension of people, you know, they're nervous. I don't really remember too much about it because I think my first show might have been. It was spring, so it wasn't that February, it was September.

[Dani Parisi]

Yeah, it was later that year. And so you mentioned showing at Bryant Park.

[Glossy Podcast Host]

Your show this season, which is on Monday, I think, is at the Rainbow.

[Dani Parisi]

Room at Rockefeller Plaza, which is a really cool venue. I just went there for the first time a couple weeks ago for a conference, and it is a very swanky spot and amazing views.

[Pamela Rowland]

It is so fantastic. We did our last show there, but it was much different because it was light. And now with our show being at 6, it's going to be dark. So our inspiration's London. We have a lot of really great things that we're going to be doing, showing our inspiration.

[Unnamed Guest]

Yeah.

[Dani Parisi]

Well, I'm excited to see it. And I mean, you can't go wrong with that room day or night, because, I mean, it's a great view either way.

[Glossy Podcast Host]

So have you been showing in New.

[Dani Parisi]

York consistently from 2002 to now, have you ever dabbled with, like, any of the other fashion weeks or other venues?

[Pamela Rowland]

Nope. New York. I'm a New York girl.

[Unnamed Guest]

Yeah.

[Glossy Podcast Host]

So I'm wondering, over the decades, then.

[Dani Parisi]

That you've been showing at New York, do you have any observations maybe of how it's changed or things you've seen over the years? I'm sure the landscape is very different now than it was back then, but I don't know what's different and what's stayed the same.

[Pamela Rowland]

Oh, it's changed a lot because once we went to Lincoln center and then, you know, they knew we were pretty much on our own. So I showed at the Whitney, the new one and the old one. I'm on the board of. The board of trustees of the Whitney. I have been for, gosh, almost two decades or something. I've been involved with the Whitney for a long time. And then Chelsea Pierce for a while, too. You know, we dabbled in other places here and there, but we did the Rainbow Room last season, and we said, this is an incredible spot. Like you said, day or night, it brings new things to it. In the night, we have a lot of things that we're gonna be doing to work with the lighting. Yeah.

[Dani Parisi]

Well, there's so many beautiful places in the city. I'm coming in from Queens, so I always prefer when the shows are in Midtown or the Village rather than Chelsea Piers, which is a real pain for me to get to sometimes.

[Pamela Rowland]

I agree. I agree. I'm happy about that, too, because that was so busy there.

[Unnamed Guest]

Yeah.

[Glossy Podcast Host]

And in September, it's also freezing and.

[Dani Parisi]

The water coming off the. OR in February. Sorry, I meant to say February, not September. In February, it's freezing with the wind coming over the water, too.

[Pamela Rowland]

Yes. And if you have a snowstorm, it's a pain. Yes.

[Unnamed Guest]

Yeah.

[Glossy Podcast Host]

So what typically goes into a show?

[Dani Parisi]

I mean, you said that your nerves have lessened since those early days, but are you still approaching the kind of. Kind of the creation and the conception of each show the same way as you did back then, or have you evolved the process?

[Pamela Rowland]

Absolutely. I mean, the first thing you have to do, obviously, before you have a show, is you have to design the collection.

[Glossy Podcast Host]

Right.

[Pamela Rowland]

So, I mean, that takes the time and a lot of research with the fabric you're going to use, the beading you're going to use. You come up with an inspiration first. And so my inspirations have typically been around art or travel, because I travel often. But the different things you wanted to know, the different things that go into a fashion show, is that you're asking me?

[Dani Parisi]

Yeah.

[Pamela Rowland]

Well, you know, like, today we did our hair and makeup test. We're doing our casting. When I'm finished with you, I'm doing the seating. You know, a big thing, too, is obviously very important, is the music. You know, once you have your inspiration, then you can work on the music. And I like working with music, and I think we do a pretty good job with it.

[Unnamed Guest]

Yeah.

[Dani Parisi]

How deeply or how closely involved are you with each of those steps?

[Glossy Podcast Host]

Do you delegate some stuff or are.

[Dani Parisi]

You hands on with every single piece?

[Pamela Rowland]

I mean, you have to delegate some, but I definitely am hands on with everything. I mean, I know everything that's going on.

[Unnamed Guest]

Yeah.

[Dani Parisi]

And I'm sure you've got a good team at this point too, that knows what you want.

[Pamela Rowland]

I have a great team. I. I don't know what I'd do without them. They're fantastic. I really have a great team. They work well together. We don't have drama here. Something causes drama, we show them the door.

[Dani Parisi]

I feel like just doing a show is enough drama on its own. You don't necessarily need conflict and stuff backstages.

[Pamela Rowland]

One of the questions of my early days, where they were always like, everything's so calm back here. I can't believe everyone's calm here. And I said, have you ever raised teenage daughters? This is easy compared to that.

[Dani Parisi]

That's a good point of comparison. I mean, I've been backstage at some shows and some of them, you can feel the chaos even in a well run machine. I feel like there's always gonna be a little bit of chaos.

[Pamela Rowland]

Well, I mean, there's, you know, you're working on time, you know, and you gotta get things finished. And things do happen. I've had shows that the finale, the zipper broke, you know, and the dressers look at you. Like, I go, keep going. There's nothing we can do, you know, just have to keep going. I'm not one to sit there and like, dwell on that, you know, we have to just keep moving. This is a show and things happen.

[Dani Parisi]

Well, I think if you've ever been in like a school play or something, you know, the feeling of like you messed up a line or something and you think everybody's focused on it. And then you talk to someone afterwards and like, nobody noticed. So I'm sure there's lots of stuff.

[Pamela Rowland]

You know, and we as a team will sometimes be picky about things, you know, ourselves. I one time had to tell we didn't show a look because I go, this girl can't walk. And I said, didn't we see her? It was crazy. I said, no, you're not going back out.

[Dani Parisi]

Wow.

[Unnamed Guest]

Yeah.

[Pamela Rowland]

So you have to. Those things happen.

[Unnamed Guest]

Yeah.

[Dani Parisi]

And I've also heard from some designers, I'm sure it differs, but that things can often come together kind of last minute. Not out of, you know, procrastination or anything, but just like, that's the nature of it. I think shows are often cast last minute. I'm sure you're bringing in models, like.

[Glossy Podcast Host]

Pretty close to the actual date.

[Dani Parisi]

So what's the timeline usually for sure?

[Pamela Rowland]

Well, like today, I think we only have right now confirmed maybe six and we need like 30 something, you know, so it does come together very, very quick. And you know, you can have somebody not show up the day of they're ill or something comes up that happens. We're aware of that happening. So the first time it happened and go, what do you mean they're not coming? You have to kind of last minute get somebody. And that's not always the easiest because you're not necessarily sure how they walk. But we've been around long enough that we really have had some of the same models and they're good. And because our business has been around and steady for so long, we get really great models.

[Dani Parisi]

Yeah, I mean, it seems like a theme from talking to you is that, you know, you've done it consistently and you have experience. You also are working with, you know, the same people models. I'm sure you've worked with other behind the scenes people for multiple seasons now.

[Pamela Rowland]

Makeup, hair. And we just, we have a team that we work with production now we've had worked with for a number of years now too.

[Unnamed Guest]

Yeah.

[Dani Parisi]

So I want to ask, I talk to a lot of newer designers, younger designers, and one thing I hear a lot is kind of the intimidation of doing a show, especially if you've never done one before. I'm sure it's expensive. I'm sure it's logistically complicated, even if you've got a great team and a good organized machine. I don't know. Do you have any advice on how to approach it? Let's say you're doing your first show ever for maybe a brand new brand.

[Pamela Rowland]

Well, I think especially today, doing a show is so, so expensive. So I think number one, can you afford it? I mean, you don't want to put yourself out of business because you did a show, you know. So if you're kind of wondering, I need to do a show to make my business go somewhere, but if you don't have anything to back it up, you really can't do it. So there's other ways of getting your name out there. I would say yes, shows how help us for sure. But when I started, it wasn't as expensive. You know, everybody was at Bryant park, so we kind of shared the cost. Now everyone's got to get their own place and kind of build their own set or whatever. You know, it's really expensive.

[Unnamed Guest]

Yeah.

[Dani Parisi]

And like you said, you're not sharing as much Resources or structure that's built, you know, to be shared by a lot of different designers.

[Pamela Rowland]

And it's too bad. I wish that we could get that back. I don't know.

[Dani Parisi]

And even as an attendee, I mean.

[Glossy Podcast Host]

I kind of like the energy of.

[Dani Parisi]

A bunch of shows happening in one place. I mean, the location that I think of. I've only been covering fashion six or seven years, is like Spring Studios in soho used to be the place where tons of brands.

[Pamela Rowland]

We went there, too. Yeah.

[Glossy Podcast Host]

And it's a fun energy seeing one.

[Dani Parisi]

Show ending and another beginning. And I don't know, New York is kind of a small, dense place already. But having it all in one location, I think, made that even more so.

[Pamela Rowland]

It makes it easier for everybody. Let's face it. The media, you know, the buyers, we like it too, but somebody's gonna have to get that together. I'd love it as a New York designer.

[Dani Parisi]

Yeah. Maybe we should look into this.

[Pamela Rowland]

I love it.

[Glossy Podcast Host]

When you're doing your show now, is.

[Dani Parisi]

It still kind of the same target audience? Like, obviously, back in the day, it was like a trade show, and you'd be showing to buyers, hoping you'd get picked up at, you know, Bergdorf or whatever. Is that still the aim, or has it expanded to, you know, beyond that?

[Pamela Rowland]

Well, yeah, we have, I mean, obviously friends, family, people that buy our clothes, but the buyers are, you know, obviously number one. And we have more buyers that want to come to the show. We have more media. So, you know, and you only have so much space, too. So you. So. So it can't be an open door. I think that's sometimes that people don't understand. It's not that I don't want everyone in. We just don't have the space for it. We had some that we actually had, you know, we had to count because especially after the pandemic, they were really careful about that. So, you know, we couldn't have hardly anybody there. So I just would have to say to my friends that were coming, and some are customers, I don't have room. Sorry. But luckily, that has changed a little bit.

[Dani Parisi]

Yeah. And also, I mean, the bigger the show and the bigger the guest list, the more expensive, you know, you need a bigger venue, that kind of stuff.

[Glossy Podcast Host]

Is there a sweet spot for you.

[Dani Parisi]

In terms of size or scale of a show?

[Pamela Rowland]

Not really. I mean, I remember having, again, in Bryant park, we had. You had a lot of space, so our shows were much bigger. But the Rainbow Room's not a huge room. Around 250. Yeah. Yeah, but, you know, we've had more. But, you know, we like the Rainbow Room because it shows well and my inspiration is London, so it's gonna be great.

[Unnamed Guest]

Yeah.

[Dani Parisi]

Well, that's a pretty good size. I mean, I've been to plenty of presentations and shows with like, you know, 50 people in the audience or something. So 250 is pretty solid.

[Pamela Rowland]

Yeah, but we've had a lot more before too, so just depends on where you show.

[Unnamed Guest]

Yeah.

[Dani Parisi]

Do you have any thoughts on kind of how to get the most out of a show? I mean, like you said, it is expensive, it can be a big lift.

[Glossy Podcast Host]

There's benefit in the moment for the.

[Dani Parisi]

People in the room. But are there ways that you can kind of, you know, make the most of that investment after the fact, you know, through social media and other things?

[Pamela Rowland]

Oh, definitely social media. But the important people there are our buyers. And we have long standing relationships with many stores. Bergdorf and Nieman, Sachs, Harrods. So they're the people that we want to get our message out to and our customers, but they're the number one important people there.

[Unnamed Guest]

Yeah.

[Dani Parisi]

I want to go back a little bit to our earlier talk about the early days of, you know, doing New York Fashion Week in. In the 2000s. Do you. Well, actually this is.

[Glossy Podcast Host]

This applies to back then and still now.

[Dani Parisi]

Do you have time to go to many other shows during the week or are you, you know, busy with your own stuff?

[Pamela Rowland]

You know, you are. You're just busy. And I think now over the years when you do your own show. I don't go to other shows. I go to Zhang again. Zhang Toy and I are good friends and we go to each other's shows, but sometimes it doesn't work out because he might have a show directly after mine or so I just, I would say no, but I used to go in the beginning because it's always nice to see what someone else is doing. We didn't have social media in the beginning. So now all you have to do is look on, you know, your Instagram and you can see what everyone's doing.

[Dani Parisi]

Yeah.

[Pamela Rowland]

See, I think that's another reason why we had bigger numbers too, is because we didn't have a social media.

[Dani Parisi]

Yeah. And if pictures do kind of disseminate, it's not gonna be five seconds later. It's gonna have to be maybe days or weeks even.

[Pamela Rowland]

Oh, yeah. Remember the old days they used to sneak people in France, they would sneak them in and sketch. And so it's not that far back, but yeah, it was much different.

[Glossy Podcast Host]

Well, and then the last thing I wanna ask.

[Dani Parisi]

So, I mean, I think you are by far not the only designer who has told me that they don't really have time to see other shows. A lot of times I ask people, what was your favorite show from the week? And they're like, I had no time to do anything other than focus on my own show.

[Glossy Podcast Host]

But do you have any favorite New.

[Dani Parisi]

York Fashion Week memories from the last two decades could be related to your own shows or to someone else's.

[Pamela Rowland]

I really have to say my favorite memory was Bryant park. Because you would be able to talk to other designers. I don't see them that much. I might run into them at a store or, you know, at an opening of a collection if I have to be in one of the stores or something. But in general, I don't see the other designers. And it is nice to be able to talk to them and see, hey, how are things going? And, you know, you learn a lot when you talk to each other, but we don't have that anymore. So that would be my favorite time is definitely Bryant Park.

[Unnamed Guest]

Yeah.

[Dani Parisi]

And it definitely seems like that's a little bit of a loss for every designer. Just like you said, there's a lot of value in that. Not just to kind of see what, you know, see what the competition's doing, but also just moral support, you know, keeping up with what's going on in.

[Glossy Podcast Host]

The industry, knowing who your peers are.

[Dani Parisi]

I can see a lot of value in that.

[Pamela Rowland]

There was a really exciting vibe, too. Right. Even in the hallways where the different. You know, you went into the different rooms and they. Right. You know, your show is showing up on a screen or right after. At least, you know, you were watching shows. You could sit out there and watch in the hallway. There's a big room, watch someone's show going on. It was just an excitement.

[Unnamed Guest]

Yeah.

[Dani Parisi]

Well, I really appreciate you telling us a little bit about your New York.

[Glossy Podcast Host]

Fashion Week memories and your new show.

[Dani Parisi]

Which again is on Monday at the Rainbow Room, which is, again, such a cool venue.

[Glossy Podcast Host]

That's all the time we have.

[Dani Parisi]

But, Pamela, thank you so much for being here, and thanks for answering my questions.

[Pamela Rowland]

Thank you. Are we going to see you Monday?

[Dani Parisi]

I will be there. I already rsvp.

[Pamela Rowland]

Okay, good.

[Dani Parisi]

And I will be looking out for my seating assignment when that comes.

[Pamela Rowland]

Oh, we have it. I saw your name.

[Dani Parisi]

Well, thank you again, Pamela. For those of you listening, thanks for listening. And don't forget to give us a rating and a review on Apple podcasts or Spotify or wherever you listen to this because that helps us out so much. And don't forget to subscribe to the Glossy podcast because we are doing New York Fashion Week coverage all week. We have interviews with industry insiders every Wednesday and we have week interview episodes every Friday. Until then, thank you for listening and thank you again, Pamela, for being here.

[Pamela Rowland]

Thank you so much for having me.