The Glossy Podcast

Episode: The NYFW Rundown: Spectacle, sparsity and insights into American fashion
Date: February 17, 2026
Host: Danny Parisi
Guests: Jill Manoff (Editor in Chief), Zofia Zviglinska (International Reporter), Mandy Lee (“oldloserinbrooklyn”, trend forecaster & content creator)

Episode Overview

This episode of The Glossy Podcast delivers an in-depth post-mortem on New York Fashion Week (NYFW) 2026. The team—including special guest Mandy Lee—discusses the shifting landscape of American fashion, the “sparseness” of the official calendar compared to global counterparts, notable runway moments, the merits and drawbacks of NYFW’s unique pragmatism, political and cultural undercurrents, and emerging trends. The conversation is candid, balancing critiques about spectacle and controversy with praise for the authenticity and wearability that set NYFW apart.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

1. General Impressions: The Mood of NYFW 2026

Sparse Calendar & Waning International Pull

• Mandy Lee sets the tone, noting a lighter schedule and the migration of major brands from NYFW.

  “New York has lost a lot of that staying power with international guests, people who travel.” – Mandy Lee (03:52)

• Other cities—especially London—have leaned into packed schedules and media impact, underscoring NYFW’s more subdued strategy.

• NYFW is called “front-loaded,” with most big shows at the very beginning, then dropping off sharply toward the week’s end.

American Fashion’s Uncomfortable Moment

• Mandy observes that U.S. fashion, and by extension NYFW, is currently “uncomfortable,” shifting in response to broader cultural and industry changes.

2. Standout Shows & Designer Highlights

Diversity in Inspiration & Execution

• Recurring praise for Kate, Diotima, Altuzarra, Tory Burch, and Sandy Liang:

  • Kate:

    “I feel like she keeps refining and refining and refining...now I think she’s come into her own completely.” – Mandy Lee (08:41)

  • Diatima:

    “Honestly, I thought it was top three of the week. I really did.” – Mandy Lee (08:02)

  • Altuzarra:

    “Gorgeous. Joseph always does such beautiful work. He’s somebody who deeply cares about his community and his girls. …these are clothes that women live their lives in.” – Mandy Lee (09:26)

• NYFW is consistently praised for offering “real clothes for real women”—collections that prioritize wearability and personal style over fantasy.

  “They’re not dressing for the fantasy or for this aspirational cartoon character of a woman. They’re dressing an actual woman.” – Mandy Lee (10:09)

Return of Public School

• The comeback show by Public School receives appreciation for recapturing New York’s “original cool”, feeling both nostalgic and current, with innovative styling inspiration.

  “It felt like street…Almost like a 90s vibe…And again, wearable. And again, some innovation mixed throughout.” – Jill Manoff (15:01)

3. NYFW’s Influence, Market Distinction, and Longevity

NYFW vs. European Fashion Weeks

• The panel laments the perennial “NYFW is dead” narrative, asserting that NYFW serves a different market—pragmatic, focused on wearable clothes, and more connected to real buyers and practicality.

  “New York is a completely different market than the European markets. …That customer buys real things they can live their life in.” – Mandy Lee (10:51)

Centralization & Shopping Experience

• Danny spotlights efforts by Next Experience to cluster independent designers in accessible spaces, making NYFW as much about the shopping and community events as the catwalks, distinguishing it from Paris or Milan.

  “A lot of people come to New York Fashion Week, and they don’t even necessarily go to a ton of shows, but they go to presentations…and they shop…” – Danny Parisi (13:27)

4. Cultural & Political Context

Subtlety Over Statements

• Designers are quietly acknowledging politics, e.g. Tory Burch’s Bunny Melon-inspired collection (a nod to changes in the Rose Garden) or accessory choices as protest symbols.

  “Definitely kind of an accessory of the season for the workers backstage and designers was this little white pin with the black ice out type.” – Jill Manoff (17:48)

• Some brands referenced current U.S. political instability without overt statements, choosing subtlety to avoid alienating customers.

5. Controversy, Low Points, and Critiques

”Rage Bait Casting” and Gimmicks

• The panel strongly criticizes Elena Velez’s show for controversial “rage bait” casting (including right-wing and eating disorder influencers) and ill-fitting clothes.

  “She has been the center of many controversies. …Leaning into rage bait casting…It’s just, I’m sorry, but it’s desperate and it’s pathetic.” – Mandy Lee (21:47)

• Discussion of the waning appeal and effectiveness of runway “gimmicks,” with reference to post-2020 spectacle overload.

  “For a couple of years…brands really relied on this, like runway gimmick…For the most part they have really reeled that in because it’s such a short, temporary gain.” – Mandy Lee (23:17)

6. Spectacle & Theatricality: When It Works

Unique Presentation Formats

• Highlights include the ASAP Rocky show (a circular runway with live make-up touch-ups), Jack Seavan’s Agatha Christie-inspired murder mystery event, and the Alexis Bittar show, which staged simulated murder as part of the performance.

  “I wish every New York Fashion Week show should contain simulated murder, in my opinion.” – Danny Parisi (28:35)

• The panel appreciates theatrical innovation, especially when it breaks up the standard runway monotony.

  “It really broke up the monotony. …It was, like, novel and made it more fun for me as an attendee.” – Danny Parisi (28:54)

7. Notable Trends: Wearability with Drama

• Western Belts and Ruffled Skirts: Recurring elements across several shows.
• Apron Detailing:

  “Eckhaus was one of the first to be on my radar, and now…they’re doubling down. There were these, like, leather butcher aprons … and at Sandy they were…very girly.” – Mandy Lee (30:41)

• Color of the Year:

  “I’ve been freaking so obsessed with the color purple…now this season, oh, everywhere. Every show…purple is going to start, like, superseding yellow as, like, the trendy color of the year.” – Mandy Lee (31:18)

• Direct Inspiration: Many designers integrate personal and family stories into their collections (e.g., Sandy Liang and her grandmother).

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• On NYFW’s Identity:

  “New York is not the fantasy—it never really has been.” – Mandy Lee (10:48)

• On the “NYFW is Dead” Narrative:

  “New York Fashion Week is dead. God, we hear it every single season…But people fail to realize…they have a different goal and a different customer.” – Mandy Lee (10:23)

• On Spectacle:

  “I wish every New York Fashion Week show should contain simulated murder, in my opinion.” – Danny Parisi (28:35)

• On Politics in Fashion:

  “Tory Burch based her whole collection on Bunny Melon…who designed the Rose Garden for the White House. …It might have been an interesting reference to what was going on politically, without maybe making it so overt…” — Zofia Zviglinska (17:20)

• On Collection Critiques:

  “A lot of collections were very madame…a little bit interchangeable from one another…” – Mandy Lee (19:13)

• On Rage Bait:

  “When I see things like this I’m just like, that’s the goal, that’s the intention. …There’s no thought behind that other than, you know, these people will cause controversy.” – Mandy Lee (23:34)

Timestamps for Key Segments

• 03:52 Mandy Lee on NYFW’s loss of international draw
• 06:13 Jill Manoff on designer freedom and creative risks this season
• 08:02 Mandy Lee on Diotima as a standout show
• 10:09 NYFW’s focus on “real women” over fantasy
• 13:27 Danny on NYFW as a market and shopping event
• 15:01 Jill on Public School’s nostalgia and innovation
• 17:20 Zofia on Bunny Mellon-inspired Tory Burch collection and politics
• 21:47 Mandy Lee critiques Elena Velez and rage bait casting
• 23:17 Mandy on the decline of runway gimmicks
• 28:35 Danny on simulated murder in runway spectacles
• 30:41 Mandy on apron trend at Eckhaus Latta and Sandy Liang
• 31:18 Mandy predicts purple as color of the year

Final Thoughts

The panel concludes that while NYFW 2026 may lack the blockbuster appeal and fantasy of European shows, it remains vibrantly relevant—distinctly American, focused on real-world wearability, and increasingly defined by authenticity rather than spectacle. Despite controversies and a sparse schedule, many designers are embracing creativity and personal expression, while audiences find touchpoints of both nostalgia and innovation. The episode closes with optimism for NYFW’s ongoing evolution.