The NYFW Rundown: Spectacle, sparsity and insights into American fashion

Summary

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The Glossy Podcast

Episode: The NYFW Rundown: Spectacle, sparsity and insights into American fashion
Date: February 17, 2026
Host: Danny Parisi
Guests: Jill Manoff (Editor in Chief), Zofia Zviglinska (International Reporter), Mandy Lee (“oldloserinbrooklyn”, trend forecaster & content creator)

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Episode Overview

This episode of The Glossy Podcast delivers an in-depth post-mortem on New York Fashion Week (NYFW) 2026. The team—including special guest Mandy Lee—discusses the shifting landscape of American fashion, the “sparseness” of the official calendar compared to global counterparts, notable runway moments, the merits and drawbacks of NYFW’s unique pragmatism, political and cultural undercurrents, and emerging trends. The conversation is candid, balancing critiques about spectacle and controversy with praise for the authenticity and wearability that set NYFW apart.

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Key Discussion Points & Insights

1. General Impressions: The Mood of NYFW 2026

Sparse Calendar & Waning International Pull

• Mandy Lee sets the tone, noting a lighter schedule and the migration of major brands from NYFW.

  “New York has lost a lot of that staying power with international guests, people who travel.” – Mandy Lee (03:52)

• Other cities—especially London—have leaned into packed schedules and media impact, underscoring NYFW’s more subdued strategy.

• NYFW is called “front-loaded,” with most big shows at the very beginning, then dropping off sharply toward the week’s end.

American Fashion’s Uncomfortable Moment

• Mandy observes that U.S. fashion, and by extension NYFW, is currently “uncomfortable,” shifting in response to broader cultural and industry changes.

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2. Standout Shows & Designer Highlights

Diversity in Inspiration & Execution

• Recurring praise for Kate, Diotima, Altuzarra, Tory Burch, and Sandy Liang:

  • Kate:

    “I feel like she keeps refining and refining and refining...now I think she’s come into her own completely.” – Mandy Lee (08:41)

  • Diatima:

    “Honestly, I thought it was top three of the week. I really did.” – Mandy Lee (08:02)

  • Altuzarra:

    “Gorgeous. Joseph always does such beautiful work. He’s somebody who deeply cares about his community and his girls. …these are clothes that women live their lives in.” – Mandy Lee (09:26)

• NYFW is consistently praised for offering “real clothes for real women”—collections that prioritize wearability and personal style over fantasy.

  “They’re not dressing for the fantasy or for this aspirational cartoon character of a woman. They’re dressing an actual woman.” – Mandy Lee (10:09)

Return of Public School

• The comeback show by Public School receives appreciation for recapturing New York’s “original cool”, feeling both nostalgic and current, with innovative styling inspiration.

  “It felt like street…Almost like a 90s vibe…And again, wearable. And again, some innovation mixed throughout.” – Jill Manoff (15:01)

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3. NYFW’s Influence, Market Distinction, and Longevity

NYFW vs. European Fashion Weeks

• The panel laments the perennial “NYFW is dead” narrative, asserting that NYFW serves a different market—pragmatic, focused on wearable clothes, and more connected to real buyers and practicality.

  “New York is a completely different market than the European markets. …That customer buys real things they can live their life in.” – Mandy Lee (10:51)

Centralization & Shopping Experience

• Danny spotlights efforts by Next Experience to cluster independent designers in accessible spaces, making NYFW as much about the shopping and community events as the catwalks, distinguishing it from Paris or Milan.

  “A lot of people come to New York Fashion Week, and they don’t even necessarily go to a ton of shows, but they go to presentations…and they shop…” – Danny Parisi (13:27)

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4. Cultural & Political Context

Subtlety Over Statements

• Designers are quietly acknowledging politics, e.g. Tory Burch’s Bunny Melon-inspired collection (a nod to changes in the Rose Garden) or accessory choices as protest symbols.

  “Definitely kind of an accessory of the season for the workers backstage and designers was this little white pin with the black ice out type.” – Jill Manoff (17:48)

• Some brands referenced current U.S. political instability without overt statements, choosing subtlety to avoid alienating customers.

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5. Controversy, Low Points, and Critiques

”Rage Bait Casting” and Gimmicks

• The panel strongly criticizes Elena Velez’s show for controversial “rage bait” casting (including right-wing and eating disorder influencers) and ill-fitting clothes.

  “She has been the center of many controversies. …Leaning into rage bait casting…It’s just, I’m sorry, but it’s desperate and it’s pathetic.” – Mandy Lee (21:47)

• Discussion of the waning appeal and effectiveness of runway “gimmicks,” with reference to post-2020 spectacle overload.

  “For a couple of years…brands really relied on this, like runway gimmick…For the most part they have really reeled that in because it’s such a short, temporary gain.” – Mandy Lee (23:17)

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6. Spectacle & Theatricality: When It Works

Unique Presentation Formats

• Highlights include the ASAP Rocky show (a circular runway with live make-up touch-ups), Jack Seavan’s Agatha Christie-inspired murder mystery event, and the Alexis Bittar show, which staged simulated murder as part of the performance.

  “I wish every New York Fashion Week show should contain simulated murder, in my opinion.” – Danny Parisi (28:35)

• The panel appreciates theatrical innovation, especially when it breaks up the standard runway monotony.

  “It really broke up the monotony. …It was, like, novel and made it more fun for me as an attendee.” – Danny Parisi (28:54)

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7. Notable Trends: Wearability with Drama

• Western Belts and Ruffled Skirts: Recurring elements across several shows.
• Apron Detailing:

  “Eckhaus was one of the first to be on my radar, and now…they’re doubling down. There were these, like, leather butcher aprons … and at Sandy they were…very girly.” – Mandy Lee (30:41)

• Color of the Year:

  “I’ve been freaking so obsessed with the color purple…now this season, oh, everywhere. Every show…purple is going to start, like, superseding yellow as, like, the trendy color of the year.” – Mandy Lee (31:18)

• Direct Inspiration: Many designers integrate personal and family stories into their collections (e.g., Sandy Liang and her grandmother).

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Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• On NYFW’s Identity:

  “New York is not the fantasy—it never really has been.” – Mandy Lee (10:48)

• On the “NYFW is Dead” Narrative:

  “New York Fashion Week is dead. God, we hear it every single season…But people fail to realize…they have a different goal and a different customer.” – Mandy Lee (10:23)

• On Spectacle:

  “I wish every New York Fashion Week show should contain simulated murder, in my opinion.” – Danny Parisi (28:35)

• On Politics in Fashion:

  “Tory Burch based her whole collection on Bunny Melon…who designed the Rose Garden for the White House. …It might have been an interesting reference to what was going on politically, without maybe making it so overt…” — Zofia Zviglinska (17:20)

• On Collection Critiques:

  “A lot of collections were very madame…a little bit interchangeable from one another…” – Mandy Lee (19:13)

• On Rage Bait:

  “When I see things like this I’m just like, that’s the goal, that’s the intention. …There’s no thought behind that other than, you know, these people will cause controversy.” – Mandy Lee (23:34)

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Timestamps for Key Segments

• 03:52 Mandy Lee on NYFW’s loss of international draw
• 06:13 Jill Manoff on designer freedom and creative risks this season
• 08:02 Mandy Lee on Diotima as a standout show
• 10:09 NYFW’s focus on “real women” over fantasy
• 13:27 Danny on NYFW as a market and shopping event
• 15:01 Jill on Public School’s nostalgia and innovation
• 17:20 Zofia on Bunny Mellon-inspired Tory Burch collection and politics
• 21:47 Mandy Lee critiques Elena Velez and rage bait casting
• 23:17 Mandy on the decline of runway gimmicks
• 28:35 Danny on simulated murder in runway spectacles
• 30:41 Mandy on apron trend at Eckhaus Latta and Sandy Liang
• 31:18 Mandy predicts purple as color of the year

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Final Thoughts

The panel concludes that while NYFW 2026 may lack the blockbuster appeal and fantasy of European shows, it remains vibrantly relevant—distinctly American, focused on real-world wearability, and increasingly defined by authenticity rather than spectacle. Despite controversies and a sparse schedule, many designers are embracing creativity and personal expression, while audiences find touchpoints of both nostalgia and innovation. The episode closes with optimism for NYFW’s ongoing evolution.

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Transcript

[Jill Manoff]

Hey guys, it's Jill. You may not know this about me considering all of our fashion talk on the podcast, but I am a big time browser. A shopper, not so much. Part of that is because I'm a sucker for a statement look and I know that the cost per wear is just not going to be there. When I wear something once it has its little moment on Instagram and then I'm on to the next outfit, usually for a glossy event. That's why when it comes to fashion, I actually borrow most everything when that's an option. And I've recently become a fan of Vivrel, which in terms of designer accessories has options upon options upon options. We're talking millions of dollars in new inventory every single week. Vivre is an exclusive fashion and lifestyle membership, unlocking access to thousands of hard to find handbags, jewelry, watches and diamonds. You can just pay a monthly fee and then you make the rules. You can rotate often or you can feel free to take a while with that Celine style that you just can't let go. So check it out. Go to www.virel.com and apply for a membership today using code GLOSSY to get 50% off your first three months of membership.

[Joe]

The code also allows you to skip.

[Jill Manoff]

The Virel wait list. That's V I V R e l l e.com use code GLOSSY for 50% off the first three months of membership. Join Glossy sister brand Modern Retail for their annual marketing Summit taking place April 20th through 22nd in Huntington Beach, California, where brand leaders from Amica Beauty, Thredup, PacSun and many more. We'll dive into how they're navigating a marketing landscape that is changing more quickly than ever before. This summit will equip you with the knowledge, strategies and connections you need through our one on one meetings, working groups, casual networking and more. Don't wait. We're offering $200 off with the promo code SUMMIT2026NOSPACES. Again, that's S u m m I t2026NOSPACES. Go to ModernRetail Co MarketingSummit to learn more and secure your path. Brands and retailers may be eligible for a complimentary pass, so apply on the event page to see if you qualify.

[Danny Parisi]

Hello and welcome back to the Glossy Podcast. I'm your host, senior fashion reporter Danny Parisi. I'm here with our international reporter, Zofia Zviglinska. Hello Zofia.

[Zofia Zviglinska]

Hi everyone.

[Danny Parisi]

I'm also here with our Editor in Chief, Jill Manoff. Jill, thank you for being here.

[Jill Manoff]

Hi everyone. Thanks for having Me.

[Danny Parisi]

And we also have a special guest this week. Mandy Lee, also known as oldloser in Brooklyn on Instagram and TikTok fashion expert, trend forecaster, substacker, content creator. Mandy, am I missing any other. How do you describe yourself?

[Mandy Lee]

No. I mean, you just buttered me up. I'm happy to be here. Thank you.

[Danny Parisi]

Yeah. I want to say thank you so much for being here. We're talking New York Fashion Week, which just wrapped up. Jill and I and Mandy all were out and about. Zofia is watching from across the pond, and I thought we could all gather and discuss some of the interesting things we saw. I want to hear from everybody, but, Mandy, can I start with you? Since you're our special guest? I'd love to just straight off the bat, like, what was your overall impression of the week? Because whenever we do New York Fashion Week recaps, I feel like Jill and I often are like, this one felt depressing, put their heart into it. And then other times, it's like, we're back. New York is back. This was a great week. I don't know what was your thoughts, just your immediate impressions of the week as a whole, and then we can go into specific shows.

[Mandy Lee]

I think coming into Fashion Week this season, before it even started, I thought that the calendar was a little bit sparse. A lot of brands who are a really big pull in New York are either not showing in New York anymore or have chosen to show off calendar, which we can't get into, if you guys are interested in that. But I think it's a very odd decision because with other cities, typically, especially Milan and Paris, they bookend the schedule with really big polls that actually get people to the city and get them to stay for the week. Unfortunately, I think New York has lost a lot of that staying power with international guests, people who travel. You know, I think that London Fashion Week in particular, that's actually where me and Sophia met last season. They had a very big push to bring more people over, pack that calendar. Just they were prepared for a bigger media impact and a bigger conversation. New York is not. That is not happening in New York. And it is unfortunate to me because there are so many good moments. And with American fashion, the, you know, temperature right now, I think, is it's uncomfortable in us right now. And I actually think that the Fashion Week season reflected that.

[Danny Parisi]

I think you're totally right. And it is interesting. I think, like you said, bookending the week, like any good event. I mean, we do kind of the same thing when we're planning A glossy event. You want something, a reason for people to show up right at the start, and you want a reason for people to stay all the way to the end. Definitely have seen a lot of even, like, good American designers going to Paris Fashion Week, like Willi Chavaria. There's still some designers, I think, that are. I didn't get to go to the Kate show, but I was going to mention I really liked what I saw from that. So I feel like there are still some good shows. But you're right. I don't blame people for maybe not wanting to travel to the US at the moment. Yeah. Jill, what. What was your impression being. I mean, you traveled to New York for the week.

[Jill Manoff]

Yes, I did.

[Joe]

It was cold and crazy. But, yeah, I would agree with Mandy about the sparse varsity. I felt like that the designers who did show, I talked to many, many of them, and I really appreciated, like, that some of them, you know, they were talking about almost throwing caution to the. I spoke with the designer from Dwarmis, which is a young emerging designer. She's always talked about, like, I, you know, I always went in kind of thinking, what will sell this time? I was just like, what? I'm going to feed my creative energy. I'm going to do what I want to do. Something similar from Robert Rodriguez, a Derek Lamb. He's not, like, holding true to all the codes of the brand. He's just going to do his thing. And a lot of people getting more comfortable with color and talking about evening and trying some building out their ward, the. The wardrobe for the. The customer. I just felt like there was more like doing things that felt a little bit more like fashion. You're giving me something that's inspiring and, yeah, it's inspiring. So I felt good about the. The brands that were showing. I thought they did things that were interesting and, yeah, there just wasn't enough of it. So. Yeah, definitely agree.

[Zofia Zviglinska]

I think so, too. At the moment, watching everything from the social media sphere, I guess it does feel like a lot of the big shows were mainly at the beginning, and then it kind of pitted out towards the end. I think Kate was definitely a big standout. You had Tory Burch and Coach always kind of end up taking the beginning part of the week. And then there are some other brands like Diatima who kind of managed to get in right at the end as well. And I think really this season made a big impact. Mandy, what did you think of that show in particular?

[Mandy Lee]

Honestly, I thought it was top three of the week. I really did.

[Zofia Zviglinska]

Yeah.

[Mandy Lee]

I think the show that everyone wanted to go to this week, like, the number one poll, was the Proenza debut for Ravenshot, and I was there. It was a beautiful. It really was beautiful. I did not understand what was happening, though, until maybe the last four looks. So then to see her work at DO team, it's like, holy shit. Like, you are such a. Like, you are such a talent. And I think what's interesting about debuts and designer debuts, we're kind of in our, like, sophomore season for the rest of the calendar. There were so many debuts last season. There's quite a few this season as well. But in my mind, we're going into, like, everyone's sophomore season, and I kind of think that's a better measure of their vision is seeing what they do for the second show. Because the first show, there's so much pressure, there's so much expectation, and I think it's a little bit more like, you can loosen your belt buckle a little bit for the second show. So after I left Pro end, I was just thinking about, I can't wait to see what she does for her second show. But, yeah, I thought it was beautiful. The Diotima, though, was a knockout. I made a list before we chatted just of some of my favorite shows of the week, and definitely Kate was up there. That was crazy. I feel like she keeps refining and refining and refining, and I think when she first started showing, I was like, is this the Row that I'm looking at? What? Like, you know, I thought it was very referential to, like, Phoebe, Philo and Row and all those things, but now I think she's come into her own completely, and it's amazing to see. I also love Altazara. Gorgeous Joseph always does such beautiful work. He's somebody who deeply cares about his community and his girls. And I think you see that because these are clothes that women live their lives in. And I think that's actually the best part about New York Fashion Week. Like, in New York specifically, the brands are dressing real women. They're not dressing for the fantasy or for this aspirational cartoon character of a woman. They're dressing an actual woman. And I think that is a through line you see throughout New York shows in general. And what annoys me personally as a content creator and somebody who actually attends these shows is every season, New York Fashion Week is dead. New York Fashion Week is dead. God, we hear it every single season. And I think what people fail to realize is New York is a completely different market than the European markets. Like they have a different goal and a different customer. And that customer buys real things they can live their life in. So my favorite shows, Kate Diotima, Tory Burch, Altazara, Sandy Liang. All those clothes are for, like, people literally can just buy them right off the Runway and wear them and not skip a beat. It's not looking like, you know, a caricature. You're wearing fashion, of course, but you could, you know, go out in pretty much everything we saw in New York this season. I don't think it's a matter of, like, New York Fashion Week is dead. I think it's just a completely different market that people might not be that excited about because we're all looking for the fantasy that fashion can take us into, but it's just not New York's vibe. It's just. It never really has been either.

[Zofia Zviglinska]

Yeah, it does always feel a bit more practical.

[Jill Manoff]

Hey, guys, it's Jill. You may not know this about me considering all of our fashion talk on the podcast, but I am a big time browser, a shopper, not so much. Part of that is because I'm a sucker for a statement look, and I know that the cost per wear is just not going to be there. When I wear something once it has its little moment on Instagram and then I'm onto the next outfit, usually for a glossy event. That's why when it comes to fashion, I actually borrow most everything when that's an option. And I've recently become a fan of Vivrel, which, in terms of designer accessories has options upon options upon options. We're talking millions of dollars in new inventory every single, single week. So depending on the occasion, I could play up a throwback look with a little Dior saddlebag. Or I could round out a New York It Girl look with a bag by the Row. Or I could carry the latest by Bottega, because Jacob Elordi inspired me like everyone else and I don't have to feel guilty about changing it up. Vivrel is an exclusive fashion and lifestyle membership, unlocking access to thousands of hard to find handbags, jewelry, watches and diamonds. You can just pay a monthly fee and then you make the rules. You can rotate often or you can feel free to take a while with that Celine style that you just can't let go. So check it out. Go to www.vivrel.com and apply for a membership today, using code GLOSSY to get 50% off your first three months of membership.

[Joe]

The code also allows you to skip.

[Jill Manoff]

The Vivrel wait list. That's V I V R e l l e.com use code GLOSSY for 50% off the first three months of membership.

[Danny Parisi]

On that note, I was going to mention. I'm sorry, I don't know how to say his last name, because when I met him, he didn't say it out loud, so I don't know the pronunciation. But I met Imad Izemrenne, I think is how you say his name. He's the CEO of Next Experience, which is that company that they had that gallery space by the High Line, and they have a bunch of independent designers all showing together in there. And he's kind of leading the effort to try to encourage more designers to centralize in one location, which we talked about last season, which I appreciate as a journalist, because it makes my job a lot easier. But when I was talking to him, he was saying a lot of people come to New York Fashion Week, and they don't even necessarily go to a ton of shows, but they go to presentations and they go to cocktail hours and they go to. And they shop and they do. And so I think you're right that there is. It is a little bit of a different market. And a lot of people come because they're, like, actually going to buy something or they're going to buy something they're actually going to wear, which I just think does explain some of the differences with, like, some of the other big fashion weeks. Joe, I would love to hear your top shows or highlights. Do you see anything that you were really excited about?

[Jill Manoff]

Yeah, I'll build off what Mandy was saying.

[Joe]

Altazara was one of my favorite as well.

[Jill Manoff]

We did get a great seat and got to go.

[Joe]

But a lot of the. Definitely some wearable pieces that, again, I would grab and wear immediately. Like the. He had some great Western belts. Belts. That was kind of a theme that I was seeing across some shows, the Western belt. But some things like, and. And some great outerwear, obviously. But also there was some drama like I. I saw in a couple of shows, including Tibby and including some of. That wasn't a show. That was a press preview type of an experience. But also. And at adm, there's this kind of dramatic ruffle skirt. A ruffle skirt is like, anyway, an evening moment that everyone's kind of pushing for. For some added drama that also seems kind of kind of wearable. It's not like an evening gown. So I was excited about that. And I was also probably in the best kind of positive mood going in. It was my first show of the season. I really liked. I was proud of them. The Public School show. It was the return of Public School, and it felt so. So like the original Public School. Like, cool New York. Very dark and. And it felt like street. Like, I don't know. And to me, it did. It felt still, like, current and Almost like a 90s vibe or something, but I thought that that was great. And again, wearable. And again, some innovation mixed throughout. Like, for example, there was, like, a trouser and where it looked like a pair of shorts over it, which sounds odd, but it looked really cool. And I was like, you know, is that two pieces or one piece? A lot of styling inspiration for me.

[Danny Parisi]

Yeah. I'm glad you mentioned Public School. I'm a big fan of them. Maxwell Osborne and Dowie Chow. Very happy to see them back. I think it's been seven years since their last show or collection. Also, quick aside, didn't Diatima also have ruffled skirts, or am I thinking of somebody? I feel like there was a lot of ruffled skirts on that Runway, too. But anyway, yeah, it was very nice to see Public School coming back. I agree. I like the Kangal style hats and sunglasses. It looked like something Samuel L. Jackson would wear to, like, the oscars in the 90s. I was. I was a big fan. Zafia, what about you? Anything that you saw from afar that stood out to you?

[Zofia Zviglinska]

Yeah, I mean, I think we were talking about this with Mandy a little bit before the episode, but I was really interested, I guess, like, with the environment in the US like, if any designers would end up kind of referencing what was going on. And obviously with Rachel Scott, that was front and center with Diotima. But I also thought it was quite an interesting reference that Tory Burch based her whole collection on Bunny Melon. Is that right? And she's this horticulturist who's basically a big word for a gardener who designed the Rose Garden for the White House. And then obviously, we know what's happened to the Rose Garden in the last six months and how it's been redesigned. And I thought it might have been an interesting referen to what was going on politically without maybe making it so overt that you'd risk kind of alienating customers.

[Joe]

That's interesting. I would definitely say it was a topic of conversation in my interviews. Kind of the state of the political environment and how that informed some of the designs. Definitely kind of an accessory of the season for the workers backstage. And designers was this little white pin with the black ice out type. And that was Worn backstage by Campillo. Campillo, Is that how you say the designer's name? But definitely him and all of his workers. He's a Mexican designer. Talking about bringing a Mexican label to a global scale and how nobody's really done that before. And also worn by Zankov, Henry Zankoff. Backstage, several designers were wearing it and talking about. They're kind of alluding to the political environment. Maybe nobody really talked about it in a super hard way.

[Danny Parisi]

Yeah, I think I saw Hilary Taymor wore the pin also when she came out at the end of the Cline Estrada show. Yeah, some designers I think spoke more specifically. Sergio Hudson, I believe, said I wasn't at that show, but I heard that he talked about it. But on that note, I was going to ask about low points of the week and definitely that's kind of grim, depressing one. Mandy, did anything else stand out to you? It doesn't have to necessarily be a show. But anything else that you thought was like a low point of the week or just any, I don't know, critique or concern?

[Mandy Lee]

I think because the week was so front loaded. And by that I mean really like all the big brands showed the first. Well, they showed either off calendar at the start of the week, Ralph Lauren and Marc Jacobs, or they were front loaded into the first, like two days that. The first week of. Or sorry, the first day of Fashion Week. It was, it was intense. It was like five shows in one day. And I have to, I have to be honest. These are just my thoughts and kind of like first impressions. But I thought a lot of collections were very madame. Very, very madame. And honestly like a little bit interchangeable from one another. Like Carolina Herrera definitely has her own style, but I did not understand the prince and whatever was going on there. It looked like it was meant for a much, much older woman, which I think would be completely fine. But the way that they market and the influencers that they have at the shows are young, beautiful women. So I don't see the connection whatsoever between sending extremely mat share a collection down a Runway and you know, dressing up these like 20 year old girls in it, you know, trying to like act like this is not for a much more mature customer. And that really bothers me because if you're going to lean hard into that more mature customer, please invite more mature customers and influencers, a plethora of them. So I don't understand why that happens. And also Coach, I mean, I thought Coach really hit it out of the park with their ready to wear last season. That's always been. I mean, I love Coach. I work with the brand very often, transparently, but I think they're ready to wear is always a sore spot. And I thought they did so well last season, but is right back to being essentially a like chalkboard blank slate for the accessories. And I had a problem with that as well. Other than that, like I said at the top, I thought a lot of the week was very like girl on the go, real woman. So I can't really fault the collections for having this like, you know, vision and muse of somebody who's actually out and about. But one of the, I think my least favorite collection and just like honestly, brand that shows at Fashion Week in New York is Elena Valdez. She has been the center of many controversies. Her clothes do not fit the models. She is now leaning into rage bait casting, like inviting these like eating disorder influencers to walk the carpet or, sorry, walk the Runway. And it's just, I'm sorry, but it's desperate and it's pathetic and I, I don't, I don't understand what's going on over there at all.

[Joe]

That's interesting that you say this, Mandy, because I was planning to attend that show. I got a confirmation that I was going to be attending that show. And then I'm looking and like the confirmation and my invite doesn't have an address. I just never got a follow up like with the address. And like, I guess I'm not going anyway. I didn't go. Maybe they're a hotbed.

[Mandy Lee]

I would not attend one of her shows.

[Zofia Zviglinska]

No, I don't think so as well. I think they, they had Claviculo who's like a big right wing kind of influencer walking the actual run. And it doesn't feel exactly right in this kind of environment to be aligning that way for the sake of it.

[Mandy Lee]

No, I mean, I think choices like that are, they just reek of desperation, in my opinion. Sorry to be harsh, but like, I think at this point post 2020 and the introduction of short form content kind of ruling how we see Fashion Week nowadays, whether that's on Instagram, on TikTok, it's just how brands earn a lot of media value. And when I see things like this, I'm just like, that's the goal, that's the intention. There's really no other, there's no thought behind that other than, you know, these people will cause controversy. I'll get talked about and, you know, more eyes on me. And I think one of my, because I also am A trend forecaster. I've been doing that for 10 years, and I would say maybe a year and a half ago, I predicted that the Runway gimmick would sort of fizzle out. I think for a couple of years. Again, post 2020, this must have been like, from 2020 to 2000, 23ish brands really relied on this, like, Runway gimmick. I think the biggest, most successful one was the Coperni spray dress on Bella Hadid. And I think that just started this, like, crazy domino effect of brands. Like, what's the craziest thing we can do? And I think for the most part they have really reeled that in because it's such a short, temporary gain that in my opinion really does not amount to any actual long standing value. So to see a brand just like do that in 2026, it's like, first of all, you're a little behind. But also it's like this is, this technique is so over and to be uplifting these people who have, like, really problematic viewpoints. Like, the other person that I saw there walking is this influencer called Liv Schmidt. And she has this like, platform of, well, here's how I can give women eating disorders and I will disguise it with like, shady language so I don't keep getting banned from these platforms. And it's, it's disgusting. Like, these are.

[Joe]

Liv Schmidt walked. I die. Mandy, I didn't know that.

[Mandy Lee]

I mean, look at the photos. I'm not going to say anything mean, but just look at the photos. But yeah, I mean, like, I think any brand who is, like, willing to participate in this already has, like, very shady, like, ethics behind the brand. And like, personally, I don't want any part of it because it's like attention farming. So something that I'm actually going to start tracking in my own research. Coming off of this, Eleanor Valdez casting is rage casting. I would like to know if this is something that other brands might be interested in doing. Because again, the Runway gimmick where like the set is crazy or there's like a crazy performance that is really not happening too much anymore. It's just kind of like over. It feels like an old, you know, trend. And when we're talking about the trend curve, that's towards the end of it, I would say. So I'm really curious to see if this, like, yeah, rage bait casting is something other brands who might be in a similar position start to do.

[Joe]

Do anybody else see?

[Jill Manoff]

Speaking of, like, I don't know, gimmicks or.

[Zofia Zviglinska]

Yeah.

[Joe]

Going out of Their way to be to make a spectacle like. Like the. The sets, like anything interesting in terms of, like, where and when things were happening. Because, like, the one that I thought was the most interesting or that stands out in my head, which wasn't really, like, I don't know, shocking or it was just new. And I was like, oh, that's interesting. Was the ASAP Rocky show. Is his brand called Awge or Augie or. I don't know how you say it.

[Jill Manoff]

The fact of the matter is they had.

[Joe]

It was like a circular Runway, and in the middle were kind of. It was created in a circle kind of like facing in like, vanities where they were doing hair and makeup. And so every once in a while a model would just kind of stop and get like a little touch up. And it was kind of few and far between and then walk out and then. And they also kind of. I was like, who are these hair and makeup people? Because they were very casual and just talking amongst themselves. Like they. Anyway, like, I think they might have been actors because I was like, they're acting like they don't care. I would be like, oh, my God, all these people are looking at me. Anyway, it was interesting and kind of fun.

[Danny Parisi]

Yeah. There were two shows that I saw that I. Speaking of, like, something theatrical or interesting? Both that I really liked. So first I went to the Seavan show. Jack Seavan is a menswear designer and it was called Murder at Stephen Manor. And it was all like, murder mystery, Agatha Christie themed. I was slightly disappointed because you sit down, it's in this beautiful 20th century mansion and there's string music playing and you get a program and it's the cast and it's the inspector and the groundskeeper and everything. And I was kind of expecting a full on murder mystery play. And it was more just. It was a regular Runway show, but all the models were dressed like characters in a murder mystery or something. Beautiful clothes also, but a very cool concept. I kind of wish it was even more conceptual. I wish there was an actual play. And the Alexis Bitar show was actually more like that. That's the one, Jill, that you sent me the invite. And the invite was like, content warning contains violence and simulated murder. And I was like, there's gonna be simulated murder in the fashion show. I have to see that. And it was kind of like a mini play about a woman who murders abusive men with a set and she drags a dead body across. And very theatrical. I wish that there was more stuff like that because it really broke up the monotony. I wish every New York Fashion Week show should contain simulated murder, in my opinion. I thought those two were very fun. And just because I go to a lot of shows and we all do unexpected. It's unexpected. And it kind of broke up the monotony of go to a venue, sit down, people in nice clothes, walk around, which is like, it's all that it needs to be. Like, that's totally fine. Lots of great shows are like that. But it definitely was, like, novel and made it more fun for me as an attendee. So I liked both of those.

[Zofia Zviglinska]

I saw that one, the Alexis Patar one. Like, that one was really good.

[Danny Parisi]

It was pretty cool.

[Zofia Zviglinska]

Yeah, I really like that one.

[Danny Parisi]

Mandy, do you have any thoughts on unique formats or anything unusual like that?

[Mandy Lee]

I did not go to any presentations this season. I feel like that's actually where brands can make something more conceptual because it's sort of like this room on loop in a way. I think most of the. I mean, I. I went to like 10 Runway shows this season, I want to say, and they were all pretty straightforward. The Altazara venue was very gorgeous. And it was weird because I get acupuncture in like, the building next door. So I was like, oh, my God. Like, is my acupuncture is going to be here. It's crazy. But no, I think again, the whole Runway gimmick sort of grab is not really a thing anymore. And it was never that big of a thing in New York anyway. It was very straightforward. I did see. Not really related to the venues or the sets, but I saw a few trends that I was excited about that I did think were, you know, something that actually has staying power. Eckhouse Lada and Sandy Liang, two of my favorite, favorite brands on the whole fashion week calendar. They're, you know, young. They have a very dedicated community, and they're so, like, involved in their community, which I think gives them such an edge. But at both, I saw little aprons, like little waist aprons. And that's a trend I've been tracking for a little over a year now. And I mean, Eckhouse was one of the first to be on my radar, and now, you know, they're doubling down. There were these, like, leather butcher aprons over leather pants. Very, very cool. And at Sandy, they were the complete opposite, like, very girly. All the backstage Sandy people were wearing little, like, ruffled aprons as well to do, like, touch ups and stuff. It was really cute. And also the color Purple guys I've been freaking so Obsessed with the color purple. It was a color prediction I made in 2025, at the beginning of 2025, and didn't really happen last year, but now this season. Oh, everywhere. Every show. I'm excited to see that one come back because I feel like purple is, like, not everyone's favorite. Just, like, how yellow was, and then we saw what happened with yellow. So I am betting money that, you know, purple is going to start, like, superseding yellow as, like, the trendy color of the year.

[Zofia Zviglinska]

I love that. Yeah, I'm a big purple fan as well.

[Danny Parisi]

Yeah, I agree. And I also. Mandy noticed the little apron kind of style at the Sandy Lang show. I think I read that they were partially inspired by Kiki's Delivery Service, one of my favorite movies. And I definitely felt that in the collection.

[Mandy Lee]

Yeah, there's a photo of her grandmother on the mood board, and she's wearing this hot fuchsia, sort of like, ruffled quilted apron. And that was one of Sandy's inspirations, was her own grandmother, who was also in attendance, like, her whole family.

[Danny Parisi]

That's so sweet.

[Zofia Zviglinska]

I love that.

[Danny Parisi]

Oh, I love that.

[Mandy Lee]

Yes.

[Danny Parisi]

Okay. I think that's all the time we have, but thank you guys all so much. And a special thank you to Mandy for being here. Thank you for joining the Glossy Podcast and sharing your wisdom and insight.

[Mandy Lee]

Thanks for having me, guys. We could have talked for, like, five more hours.

[Danny Parisi]

I know. There was so much to see, so much interesting stuff. I always like going to New York Fashion Week. I feel the same as you, Mandy, when people say New York Fashion Week Week is dead, I always get a little annoyed because it's just a different beast. So I. I enjoyed it and I enjoyed talking about it with all of you. Thank you, guys.

[Mandy Lee]

Thank you, guys.

[Danny Parisi]

And thank you for listening to the Glossy Podcast. Don't forget to give us a rating and a review on Apple Podcasts or Spotify, wherever you listen to this, because that helps us out so much. And don't forget to subscribe to the Glossy Podcast to hear interviews with. With industry insiders, and we can review segments where we break down the news. The new episodes come out every Friday. Until the next time. Thanks for listening.