The Grand Tourist with Dan Rubinstein
Episode: Erdem Moralioglu: “I’ve Always Been Attracted to Things with a Human Hand”
Release Date: April 2, 2025

Introduction

In the season finale of the 12th season of The Grand Tourist, host Dan Rubinstein engages in an in-depth conversation with renowned womenswear designer Erdem Moralioglu. With nearly two decades of successful independent design, Erdem shares insights into his creative journey, personal inspirations, and the challenges of maintaining a unique label in a rapidly changing fashion landscape.

Early Life and Influences

Erdem Moralioglu opens up about his childhood in Montreal, highlighting the significant influence of his multicultural upbringing. Born to a Turkish father and an English mother, Erdem reflects on how his diverse heritage shaped his aesthetic and worldview.

• Childhood Memories:
  “My earliest memory of childhood is probably the lake I grew up in, a little yellow stucco bungalow in the suburbs of Montreal... that lake was just this big expanse of water.” (00:50)

• Artistic Beginnings:
  Erdem describes himself as a shy child who found solace in drawing, particularly fascinated by women and their expressions. This early passion would later evolve into his distinctive fashion designs.

• Cultural Duality:
  Growing up with frequent visits to both the UK and Turkey, Erdem experienced a blend of British and Turkish cultures, enriching his creative perspective. “I always kind of grew up with the sense that my parents were living somewhere where neither of them really belonged.” (06:55)

Educational Path and Move to London

Erdem discusses his academic journey in fashion, starting with his studies in Toronto before pursuing a master's at the Royal College of Art (RCA) in London.

• Influential Internship:
  An internship with Vivienne Westwood was pivotal for Erdem, igniting his ambition to establish his own label. “That was a real seminal moment. I was suddenly, I was doing this.” (12:52)

• Decision to Study at RCA:
  Despite missing the deadline for St. Martin’s, Erdem's acceptance into the RCA became a turning point. He recounts the challenges of financing his education and the enriching, yet tough, experience at RCA, especially after the loss of his father. “It was a time of real discovery.” (15:27)

Launching His Own Label

After completing his education, Erdem shares the story of founding his label and the initial hurdles he faced in the competitive fashion industry.

• First Collection:
  Utilizing overstock fabrics and inspired by Victorian ornithology illustrations, Erdem created his first collection with limited resources. “It culminated in this very English collection, all made in London.” (25:54)

• Breakthrough with Barney’s:
  His debut runway show led to his pieces being sold at Barney’s, marking the significant moment when his career truly began. “That was like a little moment where my career began…” (23:20)

• Early Challenges:
  Erdem discusses logistical issues such as stolen shipments and the emotional toll of losing both parents within four years. “The challenges came from lots of different aspects, both personal and professional.” (28:44)

Creative Process and Inspirations

Erdem delves into his meticulous creative process, emphasizing research and storytelling as the backbone of his collections.

• Research-Driven Design:
  “I go to the library every Tuesday, where I research... I sit there and I draw. If I can't think of something, I look at books.” (33:19)
  His latest spring/summer 2025 collection is inspired by Radclyffe Hall’s novel The Well of Loneliness, exploring themes of gender and identity.

• Prints as Storytelling:
  Erdem explains his affinity for prints as an extension of narrative, blending modern abstraction with historical references. “Print is like an extension of the storytelling.” (39:20)

• Collection Inspirations:
  Past collections have drawn from figures like Maria Callas and the Duchess of Devonshire, intertwining personal stories with historical and cultural elements.
  “The idea of lineage and inheritance was so interesting.” (43:15)

Recent Projects and Achievements

Erdem highlights his recent collaboration with Chatsworth House, where he co-curated an exhibit inspired by the Duchess of Devonshire, blending fashion with historical narratives.

• Chatsworth House Exhibit:
  “We were able to create things out of textiles that belonged to her, things that were in her bedroom.” (43:15)
  This project underscored the intersection of fashion, history, and personal legacy.

• 20th Anniversary Plans:
  Looking ahead, Erdem discusses plans for his label’s 20th anniversary, including a forthcoming book and another exhibit. “There are definitely some interesting, exciting projects happening in the future.” (48:21)

Personal Life and Interests

Beyond fashion, Erdem shares personal aspects of his life, including his passion for collecting busts and his cherished family traditions.

• Art Collection:
  Erdem has a notable collection of busts, primarily inspired by early 20th-century sculptors. “We’re just under 30.” (42:16)

• Holiday Traditions:
  During winter, Erdem and his partner Philip enjoy hosting gatherings in their Georgian house near the British Museum, embracing the festive spirit with cooking and family time. “There’s lots of turkey and having friends coming and going.” (47:06)

Conclusion

Erdem Moralioglu’s journey from a shy, art-loving child in Montreal to a celebrated independent fashion designer is a testament to his resilience, creativity, and unwavering passion for storytelling through design. His ability to blend personal experiences with historical and cultural narratives continues to set his label apart in the ever-evolving fashion industry.

As the episode concludes, Erdem reflects on his identity with the words, “Curious. Bookish. A dreamer.” (49:12), encapsulating the essence of his artistic spirit.

Notable Quotes:

• Erdem Moralioglu:
  “I've always been attracted to things that have a very human hand... that idea of a humanness.” (00:00)

  “Print is like an extension of the storytelling.” (39:20)

  “Curious. Bookish. A dreamer.” (49:12)

• Dan Rubinstein:
  “Staying independent today with your own fashion label can be quite the daunting task.” (02:31)

Key Takeaways

• Multicultural Influences: Erdem’s Turkish and English heritage significantly shapes his design aesthetics.
• Research-Centric Creativity: His collections are deeply rooted in extensive research and storytelling.
• Resilience in Fashion: Navigating the challenges of the fashion industry while maintaining an independent label.
• Integration of Art and History: Seamlessly blending historical narratives with modern design elements.

For listeners seeking inspiration from a seasoned designer who masterfully intertwines personal history with creative expression, this episode offers a compelling glimpse into Erdem Moralioglu’s illustrious career and artistic philosophy.