Summary: Coco Chanel and the Aryan Laws
Podcast: The Greatest True Crime Stories Ever Told
Host: Mary Kay McBrayer
Episode: "Coco Chanel and the Aryan Laws"
Release Date: May 6, 2025
Introduction
In the episode titled "Coco Chanel and the Aryan Laws," host Mary Kay McBrayer delves into the lesser-known and controversial aspects of Coco Chanel's life, exploring her alleged collaboration with Nazi officials during World War II in occupied France. This episode sheds light on the intersection of fashion, power, and morality amidst one of history's most tumultuous periods.
Early Life and Rise to Prominence
Mary Kay McBrayer begins by outlining Coco Chanel's humble beginnings in rural western France, highlighting the hardships she faced after losing her mother at age 11 and being abandoned by her father. Chanel's time at the Catholic Aubazine convent orphanage exposed her to anti-Semitic teachings prevalent in the institution at the time, which contextualizes some of her later actions.
Chanel's foray into the fashion world was marked by her work as a seamstress and a performer in cabaret circles, where she earned the nickname "Coco" from a popular song she performed. McBrayer notes, "Chanel pioneered the 1920s flapper silhouette, introducing feminine features like pockets into women's clothing" (14:30).
Business Partnerships and the Wertimers
In 1924, Chanel partnered with the Wertimer brothers, French Jewish businessmen, to distribute her iconic perfume, Chanel No. 5. This collaboration was initially successful, but tensions arose over profit shares. By 1930, Chanel attempted to sue the Wertimers over alleged financial discrepancies, expressing her frustration by stating, "I let myself be swindled" (23:48). The lawsuit ultimately failed, leaving Chanel feeling betrayed and fueling her resentment towards the partnership.
Nazi Occupation and the Aryan Laws
With the onset of World War II and the Nazi occupation of Paris, the Vichy regime instituted the Aryan Laws, mirroring Germany's Nuremberg Laws. These laws aimed to disenfranchise Jewish citizens and seize Jewish-owned businesses. McBrayer explains, "Under the Aryan laws, Jewish businesses like Parfum Chanel were forfeited to the government" (34:12).
Chanel's Collaboration with Nazi Officials
Determined to regain control of her perfume business, Chanel leveraged her connections with Nazi officials. She engaged in a covert relationship with Baron Hans Gunther von Dinkelage, a German spy, which facilitated her involvement in clandestine operations. In 1943, Chanel participated in "Operation Model Hat," a failed attempt to send messages to Winston Churchill through Nazi channels (45:22).
Chanel's strategic maneuvering is evident in her correspondence with the Nazi administration. She asserted, "Parfum Chanel is still the property of Jews and has been legally abandoned by the owners. I have an indisputable right of priority" (38:55), attempting to reclaim her business assets amidst oppressive laws.
Aftermath and Post-War Consequences
Following the liberation of Paris in 1944, Chanel sought to distance herself from her wartime activities by distributing free bottles of Chanel No. 5 to American soldiers, hoping to mend her public image. However, her past associations with Nazi officials left a lingering stain on her legacy. McBrayer reflects, "Chanel hoped to fly below the radar after collaborating with Nazi agents" (47:10).
Conclusion
Mary Kay McBrayer concludes by emphasizing the complex legacy of Coco Chanel, juxtaposing her monumental contributions to fashion with her morally questionable actions during the Nazi occupation. This episode serves as a reminder of the intricate and often dark intersections between personal ambition and societal upheaval.
Notable Quotes
- Mary Kay McBrayer: "There is the truth, but there's always another truth that lives behind it." (07:35)
- Mary Kay McBrayer: "Chanel hoped to fly below the radar after collaborating with Nazi agents." (47:10)
- Mary Kay McBrayer: "What Coco tried to get away with next was even more shocking." (35:08)
References
McBrayer's narrative is supported by multiple sources, including the documentary The Wars of Coco Chanel, Hal Vaughn's book Sleeping with the Enemy, and the documentary Becoming Chanel. These sources provide a comprehensive view of Chanel's life and the complexities surrounding her alleged Nazi collaboration.
Note: Timestamps in the notable quotes section correspond to their appearance in the transcript.