The History of English Podcast: Episode 177 – Dressed for Success

Host: Kevin Stroud
Release Date: June 26, 2024
Description: The Spoken History of a Global Language

Introduction

In Episode 177, titled Dressed for Success, Kevin Stroud delves into the intricate relationship between clothing and language during the late 1500s and early 1600s. This episode marks the conclusion of the podcast’s exploration of the 1500s, transitioning into the 1600s, and highlights significant developments in Elizabethan theater, particularly focusing on William Shakespeare’s plays Henry V and Julius Caesar.

Elizabethan Theater and Costume Preservation

Stroud begins by discussing the construction of the Globe Theater in 1599, situated near the Rose Theater. He references Philip Henslow’s detailed business records from the Rose, which reveal the high value placed on theatrical costumes. Stroud explains that both the Globe and the Rose had roofs over their stages, primarily to protect expensive Elizabethan costumes made from costly fabrics like silk and velvet. As he notes, “The costumes were so valuable that they had to be protected at all costs” ([14:35]).

Sumptuary Laws and Costume Acquisition

Elizabethan England was governed by sumptuary laws, which regulated clothing based on one’s social class and occupation. Stroud explains how acting companies often acquired costumes by purchasing garments from servants who inherited fancy attire from deceased nobility but were legally restricted from wearing them. This system underscored the significant investment in costumes, sometimes costing more than entire play productions. Stroud cites Henslow’s records, illustrating the immense costs: “We find clothing terms that aren't really used today... one of his actors... paid the equivalent of a schoolmaster's salary for an entire year” ([22:17]).

Shakespeare’s Henry V and the Globe Theater

Stroud transitions to William Shakespeare’s Henry V, positing it as possibly the first play performed at the newly built Globe Theater in May 1599. He highlights the play’s departure from historical accuracy in costume design, emphasizing that characters often wore contemporary Elizabethan attire despite being set in ancient Rome. A notable moment from the play is Henry’s iconic speech at Agincourt: “We few, we happy few, we band of brothers” ([32:04]). Stroud points out that this speech birthed enduring phrases such as “band of brothers” and “household words” ([33:37]).

Thomas Platter’s Account of Elizabethan London

The episode references Thomas Platter, a Swiss physician whose journal provides a rare first-hand account of a performance at the Globe. Platter observed that actors were dressed in elaborate Elizabethan costumes even in plays like Julius Caesar, setting a precedent for historical plays to reflect contemporary fashion. He noted the opulence of attire and the public’s fascination with fashion, stating, “They often stroll out or drive by coach in very gorgeous clothes” ([50:45]).

Shakespeare’s Julius Caesar and Language Evolution

Stroud examines Shakespeare’s Julius Caesar, highlighting how the play incorporates Elizabethan clothing terminology and humor. An example includes the line, “It was Greek to me,” which Stroud explains predates Shakespeare but was popularized through his works ([63:02]). He also explores how Shakespeare used clothing-related terms to influence language, such as “brogue” and “buskin,” which have evolved to describe accents and theatrical elements, respectively.

Linguistic Innovations and Their Origins

The episode delves into various linguistic developments tied to clothing:

• Custom to Costume: The word costume evolved from custom, reflecting the societal link between dress and tradition.
• Habit: Originally referring to clothing, the term shifted to describe a person’s demeanor.
• Garb: Initially meaning custom or habit, it later came to denote specific styles of dress.

Stroud emphasizes how these linguistic shifts illustrate the deep interconnection between clothing and language, stating, “A strong association between a person's clothing and the customs of society” ([45:30]).

Grammar and Pronoun Evolution

Stroud explores grammatical changes, particularly the emergence of reflexive pronouns. He explains how Shakespeare’s phrase “rouse him at the name of Crispian” reflects a transitional period in English grammar, where reflexive pronouns like himself were not yet standardized ([52:10]).

Fashion Terminology and Cultural Impact

The episode highlights specific Elizabethan fashion terms and their lasting impact:

• Ruffs: Elaborate collars that became a widespread fashion symbol, even influencing place names like Piccadilly.
• Hose and Breeches: The evolution of legwear terminology from singular to plural forms, exemplified by words like breeches and trousers ([55:22]).
• Color Terms: Unique Elizabethan color descriptions such as “goose turd green” and “maiden's blush” reflect the period’s vibrant fashion culture ([70:07]).

Innovations Beyond Fashion: Early Industrial Machinery

Stroud briefly touches upon technological advancements, mentioning William Lee’s industrial knitting machine in 1600. Although Queen Elizabeth refused Lee’s patent due to concerns over unemployment, this invention is recognized as a precursor to the Industrial Revolution, marking a significant shift towards mechanization ([60:05]).

Conclusion and Preview of Next Episode

Wrapping up, Stroud reflects on the profound influence of Elizabethan clothing on language and theater. He teases the next episode, which will explore the final years of Queen Elizabeth’s reign and Shakespeare’s renowned tragedy Hamlet.

Notable Quotes:

• Kevin Stroud: “The costumes were so valuable that they had to be protected at all costs” ([22:17])
• Henry V: “We few, we happy few, we band of brothers” ([32:04])
• Thomas Platter: “They often stroll out or drive by coach in very gorgeous clothes” ([50:45])
• Mark Anthony in Julius Caesar: “Friends, Romans, countrymen, lend me your ears...” ([70:07])

Key Takeaways:

• Costume Significance: Elizabethan actors invested heavily in elaborate costumes, often replicating contemporary fashion rather than historical accuracy.
• Language and Clothing: Numerous English words and phrases originated or evolved during this period, deeply intertwined with fashion terminology.
• Shakespeare’s Influence: Through his plays, Shakespeare not only entertained but also contributed to the evolution of the English language and its expressions.
• Early Industrial Efforts: Innovations like Lee’s knitting machine hinted at future industrial advancements, despite opposition from societal leaders like Queen Elizabeth.

Stay tuned for Episode 178, where Kevin Stroud will explore the twilight of Queen Elizabeth’s reign and delve into Shakespeare’s masterpiece, Hamlet, uncovering its linguistic intricacies and cultural significance.