Podcast Summary: How Tariffs Could End Italian Pasta in the U.S.
Podcast: The Journal.
Hosts: Jessica Mendoza, Ryan Knutson (not present in this episode)
Date: November 13, 2025
Episode Theme:
This episode explores the dramatic escalation of U.S. tariffs on Italian pasta—potentially up to 107%—and what it means for Italian producers, American consumers, pasta diplomacy, and international trade. Using on-the-ground insights from WSJ reporter Margherita Stancati, the show analyzes the origins, stakes, and strange twists behind a looming "pasta war" that could make Italian pasta nearly disappear from American shelves.
Main Discussion Points & Key Takeaways
1. A Visit to Italy’s Pasta Heartland
- [00:05-01:21] Margherita Stancati tours La Molisana, a major Italian pasta factory, describing the process and unique quality ingredients that define traditional Italian pasta.
- “It’s sweet and nutty…a bit like the smell of freshly cooked pasta. It kind of makes you hungry.” — Margherita Stancati [00:13]
- Key to the process: high-quality flour, spring water, bronze dyes, and a slow drying process keep the pasta “al dente,” enhancing sauce absorption and texture.
2. The Tariff Threat Emerges
- [01:24-02:32] Stancati meets La Molisana CEO Giuseppe Ferro, who expresses deep concern over the U.S. Commerce Department’s abrupt imposition of 107% tariffs on Italian pasta exports—a move Stancati calls an “export killer.”
- The U.S. had previously imposed 5-10% tariffs; these new tariffs would massively disrupt the market.
- “It’s possible that their favorite fusilli, penne may no longer be available in stores.” — Margherita Stancati [02:32]
3. Background: A Long-Simmering Trade Dispute
- [06:14-08:02] The roots go back to the 1990s, when Italian companies were accused of dumping pasta (selling below production cost) in the U.S. The Commerce Department imposed anti-dumping duties then, and subsequent reviews became an annual bureaucratic routine.
- Italian firms, while disputing the dumping charge, eventually accepted low-level tariffs as a cost of doing business in the U.S.
4. A Routine Complaint Turns Nuclear
- [08:06-10:15] In July 2024, two American companies file the usual anti-dumping complaint. The Commerce Department reviews 13 Italian companies, requesting paperwork from La Molisana and Garofalo (the two biggest importers).
- In September, the Commerce Department accuses these companies of being “uncooperative” based on paperwork issues (untranslated Italian, undefined acronyms, missing data), and blanket applies a 92% tariff to all 13 companies.
- “They said, you know, you guys didn’t do your homework properly.” — Margherita Stancati [10:58]
- This 92% is on top of a pre-existing 15% EU tariff, totaling a massive 107%.
5. Response from Italian Pasta Makers
- [11:03-11:41] Outrage from Italian exporters: They insist they followed established procedures; errors were minor and routine in past years but were never grounds for such severe penalties before.
- Italian companies believe Commerce analysts misunderstood Italian accounting and misread some financials (e.g., confusing gross with net prices).
- The new tariffs would force most producers to either double pasta prices for American consumers or pull out of the U.S. market altogether.
- “We would just pull out of the U.S. market.” — Margherita Stancati [11:41]
6. Market Importance & The Complaint’s Origins
- [12:00-13:04] For companies like La Molisana, the U.S. accounts for about 10% of sales. Cumulatively, Italian pasta exports to the U.S. total $770 million annually.
- The original anti-dumping complaint came from two “American” companies—but with a twist.
- “The Commerce Department cannot initiate these reviews. Someone has to file a complaint first. And that someone is usually a domestic producer.” — Margherita Stancati [13:04]
7. Private Equity and the Italian Connection
- [13:04-16:45] One complainant, Winland Foods, is owned by a private equity firm run by an Italian businessman. This same firm also owns Italian pasta makers that are not impacted by the tariffs and could benefit if their rivals are locked out of the U.S. market.
- “Those pasta producers are not subject to the tariffs and could potentially stand to benefit.” — Margherita Stancati [16:30]
- Stancati and Mendoza discuss whether these anti-dumping rules, intended to level the playing field, are instead creating new distortions and “winners and losers.”
8. Diplomatic Fallout & Broader Implications
- [14:59-19:32] The situation escalates into a full-blown diplomatic crisis, with Italy’s government and EU officials intervening.
- “This incident has blown up in Italy…and it’s grown into a full-blown diplomatic dispute.” — Margherita Stancati [15:13]
- Pasta becomes a symbol of national pride. Italian leaders are directly involved, and a special taskforce is set up.
- “Are we entering an era of pasta diplomacy with Italy and the EU at this point?” — Jessica Mendoza [15:47]
- “Well, it’s like, yeah, pasta wars for sure.” — Margherita Stancati [15:52]
- The hosts note the personal impact for American consumers:
- “People have an emotional connection to pasta in the way they don’t about…other items affected by tariffs.” — Margherita Stancati [18:50]
- If tariffs go into effect, Americans will see less Italian pasta in stores, possibly as soon as January.
Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments
- “This is the first time we’re seeing so many Italian companies, literally the bulk of exporters to the US, affected by potentially export-killing tariffs.” — Margherita Stancati [02:15]
- “Italy’s pasta exports to the US are at risk of unraveling like limp linguine on a fork.” — Jessica Mendoza [14:59]
- “This isn’t just about Italy’s exports…it’s about national pride.” — Margherita Stancati [15:15]
- “The biggest losers of all perhaps are US consumers…with fewer choices when they go to the stores.” — Margherita Stancati [18:27]
- Humorous pasta taxonomy: “There’s spaghetti, spaghettone, spaghettini, cappelli d’angelo…And I’ve left out all the stuffed pasta as well.” — Margherita Stancati [05:11]
Key Timestamps for Important Segments
- [00:05-01:21] — Sensory visit to Italian pasta factory, artisanal process
- [01:24-02:32] — Italian pasta makers express alarm over tariffs
- [06:14-08:02] — 1990s dumping case origins explained
- [08:06-10:15] — How this year’s complaint led to an unusually harsh tariff
- [10:58-11:41] — Italian response to U.S. accusations of non-cooperation
- [12:00-12:23] — Economic stakes: why the U.S. market matters
- [13:04-16:45] — Private equity and the Italian twist behind the U.S. complaint
- [14:59-15:15] — Escalation to a diplomatic crisis
- [18:27-19:02] — The personal impact for U.S. consumers
Episode Conclusion
The episode closes by highlighting how an obscure paperwork dispute has ignited a trade and diplomatic crisis, threatening a quintessential part of both Italian and American culinary life. The uncertain fate of Italian pasta in the U.S. raises questions about the true effects of anti-dumping rules and shows how the intersection of business, regulation, and culture hits home—starting in America’s grocery aisles.
For Further Reporting:
- Additional reporting by Gavin Bay.
- No changes have yet been finalized; a Commerce Department decision is expected as soon as January.
[End of Content Summary]
