
Hosted by At Present · EN

Marc Bridge and Charlotte Groeneveld at the launch dinner for The World of Charlotte Groeneveld, presented by At Present. Raf’s New York, September 9, 2025. Charlotte’s dress is by ALMADA Label, Necklace from At Present.Charlotte Groeneveld—aka The Fashion Guitar—joins me during New York Fashion Week to talk about how blogging became the creator economy, why authenticity (not algorithms) is her north star, and the thrill/terror of debuting our new jewelry capsule together. From front-row politics to fabric snobbery and the “feel” test, Charlotte traces her path from WordPress fits to building a modern luxury business that’s personal, precise, and proudly independent.We get into: how NYFW is regaining its spark, the job-to-be-done for creators and brands, and Charlotte’s rubric for partnerships (“know your audience; be consistent; work hard”). She opens up about the mental gymnastics of invitations, the power of a tight network, and why her style starts with quality—then proportion.Then we unveil highlights from the At Present × The World of Charlotte Groeneveld capsule: an open-front diamond choker that “feels rich” without feeling heavy, its sister version tipped with organic pearls, a rose-quartz-kissed pearl choker, a saturated green fluorite strand with adjustable length, and a (soon!) ear climber. The brief we set for ourselves: make pieces that feel unique yet instantly wearable—day to night, knitwear to gala.Charlotte also shares what’s exciting her now—from TWP’s fabric-and-fit mastery to the return of the Chloé Paddington—plus why emerging designers face a brutal money/creativity tradeoff while mega-houses wrestle with the inverse. We close with where to follow her long-form writing (yes, Substack) and why community—DM by DM—still matters.Callouts & linksHouses & heritage* Chanel – the Karl Lagerfeld photo that inspired her blog’s name and the dream of sitting their shows. * Ralph Lauren – anchoring NYFW’s renewed excitement. * Chloé – current collection inspiration + the return of the Paddington bag. * Valentino – early adopter of working with bloggers. * Burberry – among Charlotte’s first European brand collabs. Contemporary & indie she’s watching* TWP – fabric, fit, and a “keeper” brand; new store out east. * Nordic Knots – rugs; a home brand she admires. * Interior NYC – beloved, now-closed indie; she still wears and tags their pieces* Ellison Studios – Australian home brand; small-batch furniture.People & media* The Fashion Guitar – Charlotte’s platform (site & Substack). * Vogue Runway – street-style time capsule. * Leandra Medine (Man Repeller), Susie Bubble, Bryanboy, Aimee Song – early era peers Charlotte cites.* The Frick Collection – where she plans to wear the diamond choker. Our capsule (At Present × The World of Charlotte Groeneveld)* Open diamond choker – front-closing, twin diamond tips (elegant, breathable “feel”).* Open pearl choker – same silhouette with organic pearl tips.* Pearl + rose-quartz choker – short, sits high; daytime-to-evening.* Green fluorite strand – lush color; subtly adjustable length. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com

Sommyyah Awan and Marc Bridge, Hotel Chelsea, New York City, September 13, 2025For this episode of The Materialist, recorded during New York Fashion Week, I sat down with Toronto-based content creator, communications strategist, and fashion multihyphenate Sommyyah Awan. Known for her irreverent and stylish “dual life” — corporate strategist by day, luxury fashion influencer by night — Sommyyah brings sharp insights on style, material culture, and what it means to live intentionally with objects.We traced her journey from Houston to Toronto, from Tumblr blogs to TikTok virality, and from sewing her own clothes as a teenager to walking red carpets in Sergio Hudson and Hermès. Sommyyah explained how her training in communications shapes her content, why she thinks of herself as “Hannah Montana,” and how her five beloved F’s — fashion, film, fast cars, flying planes, and foreign policy — drive her creativity.The conversation moves from her playful irreverence (skateboarding with a Birkin, wearing a necklace backwards) to serious reflections on taste, storytelling, and the enduring power of artisanship. We discuss her philosophy of high-low styling, her perspective on Hermès versus hype-driven brands, and her ambitions for the future — including Substack writing, styling services, and the perfect timepiece.Sommyyah reminds us that intentional materialism isn’t about being owned by objects, but about choosing what amplifies who you already are. She brings wit, candor, and joy to a conversation that ranges from handbags to geopolitics, lipstick to algorithms, and the meaning of living life at full tilt. And if you want the full DL on what she chose to wear for our conversation, conveniently she made a video about it here!Find Sommyyah on Instagram, TikTok, and Substack. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com

What does it take to translate timeless brands into the digital age—and what happens when you refuse to play by algorithmic rules? This week on The Materialist, I sit down with Ruthie Friedlander, a digital pioneer who has shaped how we see luxury fashion and jewelry online.Ruthie’s story defies linear career paths. She started as Dan Abrams’ assistant in the early days of Mediaite, carved out one of Chanel’s first digital roles, joined the Olsen twins at The Row when the company was barely 25 people, and later helped lead digital strategy at ELLE and InStyle. Today she runs At Large, the creative agency she “accidentally” founded after burning out on editorial quotas that demanded 80 stories a day. Along the way, she has become a leading voice on what it means to build brands that endure.Highlights from our conversation:* On brand integrity: “It’s either right or it’s wrong.” Ruthie draws a through-line from Chanel to The Row to At Large: the best brands refuse compromise.* On digital shortcuts: chasing algorithms creates short-term growth but erodes identity. She explains why so many millennial “playbook brands” fizzled out.* On jewelry’s unique challenge: unlike sweaters, fine jewelry brands must finance inventory, consign pieces, and absorb the risk—making scale almost impossible without deep pockets.* On lab vs. natural diamonds: chemically identical, yes—but “I will always look at natural diamonds and lab diamonds differently from a spiritual perspective.”* On building healthier workplaces: having recovered from an eating disorder exacerbated by fashion’s culture and starting The Chain, a nonprofit dedicated to eating disorder advocacy in fashion and entertainment, Ruthie is committed to running a company where therapy, boundaries, and health are non-negotiable.Why it matters for The Materialist communityJewelry and design aren’t just about objects; they’re about the stories and structures behind them. Ruthie helps us see how storytelling sells, why clarity outlasts trends, and how the jewelry industry mirrors broader questions of value, scarcity, and meaning. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com

On Instagram, it looks effortless: the infinity pools in the Maldives, the safari sunsets in South Africa, the couture fit checks against a perfect backdrop. Laura and Nicolas Herbert — known to their hundreds of thousands of followers as @laurandnicolas — seem to embody the ultimate lifestyle: global travel, editorial style, and a business powered by beauty.But as Laura reveals in this week’s episode of The Materialist, the dream is much more complicated.From Antwerp to EverywhereLaura began her career in Antwerp’s fashion world. But a six-month trip with Nicolas — meant as a sabbatical — changed everything. They started an Instagram account to document their travels, posted every single day (sometimes setting alarms for 2 a.m. to catch the right window), and slowly transformed a personal experiment into a professional platform. Hotels began reaching out. Fashion brands followed. And eventually, the couple built a dual business: influencer distribution and commercial photography for luxury clients.The Cost of BeautyWhat looks like vacation is actually work. For every perfect sunrise photo, there’s a wake-up call at dawn. For every dreamy campaign, there are countless emails, logistics puzzles, and the stress of feeding an algorithm that rewards relentless output. Laura admits to burnout, to losing the ability to see some destinations as “vacations,” and to the ongoing negotiation of how much intimacy to share with an audience that feels they know you.“It’s our job to make it look like a vacation — but it rarely is.”Style, Mystery, and the Magazine MagicLaura also reflects on how Instagram has changed. Once it was about editorial photography, thoughtful composition, and images that felt like magazine spreads. Now, the push is toward photo dumps, immediacy, and intimacy. Laura misses the mystery and magic of the editorial era — and wonders if there’s a way back. Her own style, she says, is classic but playful: she dresses to the destination, and she believes accessories and jewelry turn an outfit into a statement.The Places That Still Take Her Breath AwayDespite the grind, there is still wonder. For Laura and Nicolas, South Africa remains the most magical place they’ve ever been — from the conservation-driven safaris at Royal Malewane and Tswalu to the light and food of Cape Town. Namibia, just an hour away, is another favorite, with landscapes that feel cinematic. These are the places where the dream and the reality align.Listen NowThis conversation is about more than travel and style — it’s about the costs and rewards of turning passion into profession. Laura Herbert shares what it really takes to live the life that looks like a dream.Laura Herbert and Marc Bridge, The Hotel Chelsea, August 26, 2025 This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com

This week on The Materialist, I’m joined by Tiffany Lopinsky — co-founder and president of ShopMy, the platform quietly powering your favorite creators.We cover a lot of ground: the evolution of influencer marketing, why affiliate and subscription revenue might just save the creator economy, and what it takes to build something useful, without a playbook.Tiffany speaks with the clarity of someone who’s seen behind the curtain — first as a content creator herself (shout out to Boston Foodies), and now as the operator behind a platform with 175,000 creators and 30,000 brands.“There’s no playbook for something that hasn’t been done before. Otherwise, you’d have to write the playbook once you do it.”That could be the ShopMy manifesto — and it wouldn’t be a bad one for the rest of us, either.📌 Highlights from Our Conversation• The 3 ways creators make money todayFlat-fee partnerships, affiliate revenue, and subscriptions. (Spoiler: Tiffany thinks the second and third are where freedom — and taste — live.)• Why micro-influence isn’t just a buzzwordThe power isn’t always in scale — it's in specificity. Smart brands know that the right creator with 10k followers can outperform a scripted macro-influencer with a million.• The changing role of press & retailLegacy media and department stores are losing ground. Creators now function like boutique editors and independent shopkeepers — and they’re often better at it.• The invisible architecture of tasteShopMy isn’t just helping brands find creators — it’s helping good taste scale.🛍 Brands Tiffany Loves (and Why)Here are a few brands Tiffany mentions in the episode — all discoverable (and shoppable) through ShopMy:* Le Monde Beryl — Elegant flats rooted in timeless design.* Emme Parsons — Sandals and refined footwear with a minimalist soul.* Porta NYC — Brooklyn-based earthenware shop she can’t stop talking about. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com