The Moth Podcast Summary: "Dan Barber: The Story of Boris"
Episode Information:
- Title: The Story of Boris
- Host/Author: The Moth
- Guest Storyteller: Dan Barber
- Release Date: May 27, 2014
Introduction
In this compelling episode of The Moth, renowned chef Dan Barber shares a deeply personal and thought-provoking story titled "The Story of Boris." Delivered live in New York in 2008, Barber's narrative delves into the intricate relationship between humans and animals, ethics in agriculture, and the profound impact of personal experiences on decision-making.
The Situation with Boris [02:18]
Dan Barber begins by introducing Boris, a boar weighing over 800 pounds, residing on the farm that supplies his restaurant, Blue Hill, located in Stone Barns, Tarrytown, New York. Boris was not just any animal on the farm; he was affectionately regarded as the farm's "mascot" and "Mickey Mouse," embodying both a protector and a familiar presence.
Dan Barber [03:15]: "Boris, he's been our friend, our protector, our Mickey Mouse at the Stone Barn center, our mascot."
However, despite his gentle demeanor, Boris exhibited troubling behavior. Barber recounts observing Boris's failed attempts to mate with sows, highlighting a concerning trend where Boris would approach a sow, attempt to mount her, and ultimately fail, leading to frustration and confusion about Boris's future on the farm.
The Dilemma: Deciding Boris's Fate [04:45]
The central conflict arises when Craig Haney, the livestock manager at Stone Barns, suggests that Boris needs to be shot due to his inability to perform naturally. Barber is taken aback by this proposition, given his affection for Boris.
Dan Barber [05:10]: "How could you possibly think of shooting him?"
Unsure of the consequences and lacking knowledge about what happens when a boar is taken out of natural breeding activities, Barber researches the options available, ultimately narrowing them down to four:
- Shoot and Bury: Immediate euthanasia and burial.
- Natural Death: Allowing Boris to live out his life naturally.
- Slaughter: Sending Boris to a slaughterhouse, risking boar taint in the meat.
- Castrate and Slaughter: Removing testosterone through castration before slaughter to improve meat quality.
Dan Barber [06:30]: "Option number one, shoot and bury... Option number two, natural death... Option three, slaughter... Option four, castrate and then slaughter."
Community Reactions and Emotional Struggles [08:50]
Barber describes the varied and intense emotions within the Stone Barns community regarding Boris's fate. Personal attachments and prejudices surface, complicating the decision-making process.
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Craig Haney: Emotional attachment due to his personal history with Boris and his late wife Amy.
Dan Barber [09:20]: "Craig... would have grabbed it, stabbed Boris between the eyes, and ripped his heart out."
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Julie, Assistant Livestock Manager: Exhibits clear resentment and frustration towards Boris, blaming him for disrupting the farm's operations and expressing overt aggression.
Dan Barber [10:05]: "She put her fingers... and she said, stop making this farm into a circus."
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Irene Hamburger: Shares a pertinent example of another sow, Sophie, who was killed after failing to get pregnant, reinforcing the community's pragmatic approach to animal management.
Dan Barber [11:15]: "Good old Boris hasn't gotten a fucking erection in six months... What do you do when something in your field isn't productive."
Barber also contemplates his own biases, revealing a personal vulnerability stemming from his history with testicular cancer.
Dan Barber [12:40]: "I worry that it's colored by the fact that I don't like Boris... I had testicular cancer and I had a testicle removed."
Seeking Guidance and Making the Decision [14:30]
In his quest for clarity, Barber consults his rabbi, seeking ethical and philosophical guidance on the matter.
Dan Barber [15:00]: "Here's my opinion. Castration is the option that's most appropriate as long as you donate 20% of Boris meat to charity."
Shortly after, a veterinarian named Dr. Steve Stanford contacts Barber with an unconventional proposal to perform Boris's castration in exchange for a barter involving diamonds and access to medication for his wife. Despite reservations about the procedure's barbarity, Barber agrees, leading to Boris's eventual castration and subsequent slaughter.
Dan Barber [17:00]: "He made a semicircle around Boris and Dr. Sanford went to work... It was like downright middle ages."
Conclusion: Reflecting on Boris's Legacy [17:45]
Six months post-procedure, Boris is sent to the slaughterhouse. Barber reflects on the complex interplay of emotions and ethics involved, ultimately serving the meat as high-quality sausage while donating a portion to the homeless.
Dan Barber [17:25]: "It was the best sausage meat we've ever had for two reasons... It was a celebration of Boris."
Barber concludes with a poignant moment of remembrance, savoring a piece of Boris's cured lardo and quoting General Douglas MacArthur:
Dan Barber [18:00]: "Old soldiers don't die, they just fade away... And he was delicious."
Final Thoughts
Dan Barber's story of Boris serves as a profound exploration of humane animal management, ethical decision-making in agriculture, and the personal impacts of these choices. Through his narrative, Barber invites listeners to contemplate the deeper connections between food sources, animal welfare, and human responsibility.
Notable Quotes:
- Dan Barber [05:10]: "How could you possibly think of shooting him?"
- Dan Barber [10:05]: "...she said, stop making this farm into a circus."
- Dan Barber [12:40]: "I worry that it's colored by the fact that I don't like Boris... I had testicular cancer and I had a testicle removed."
- Dan Barber [18:00]: "Old soldiers don't die, they just fade away."
This detailed account by Dan Barber not only narrates the plight of Boris but also serves as a catalyst for broader discussions on sustainable farming practices, ethical treatment of animals, and the often-unseen stories behind the food we consume.