The Moth Podcast Summary: Joby Ogwyn - The Ascent
Podcast Information:
- Title: The Moth
- Host/Author: The Moth
- Episode: Joby Ogwyn: The Ascent
- Release Date: April 15, 2014
Introduction
In this gripping episode of The Moth, host Dan Kennedy introduces the astounding true story of Joby Ogwyn, a world-renowned alpinist and base jumper. Told live in Los Angeles in 2012, Ogwyn recounts his harrowing solo speed ascent of Mount Everest—an endeavor that pushed the limits of human endurance and survival.
The Ascent: A Race Against Time
Setting the Stage
Joby begins his tale from Everest Base Camp, situated at the base of the world's tallest mountain. It's 2:30 PM when his friend Henry delivers alarming news: while the weather remains favorable for a short period, it is expected to deteriorate rapidly. With the season's end approaching, Ogwyn makes the bold decision to attempt the fastest solo ascent of Mount Everest—a feat aiming to summit and descend within 24 hours, a stark contrast to the usual week-long expeditions.
“I was going to try to do it in less than 24 hours, and I was going to be all alone.” [04:00]
Preparing for the Climb
Ogwyn reflects on his departure from his trusted climbing partner, Inyaki, who embodies the traditional, selfless mountaineering spirit devoid of sponsorship and external motivations. This decision underscores Ogwyn's shift towards a mission influenced by commercial interests and the desire to set unprecedented records.
He visualizes his goal, gearing up with determination, and begins his ascent through a challenging 4,000-foot icy and rocky facade. Impressively, within three hours, he reaches the high camp at 26,000 feet, establishing a swift and steady pace.
“The oxygen definitely helped a lot. I was moving faster, my head was clear.” [13:20]
Nearing the Summit
As Ogwyn approaches the final 3,000 feet to Everest's summit under the cloak of darkness, he encounters severe challenges. Despite initially maintaining momentum, he begins to feel the effects of altitude sickness—manifesting as coldness and dizziness. Realizing he has exhausted his supplemental oxygen, Ogwyn attempts to switch bottles but discovers a critical failure: the regulator threads do not match, resulting in significant oxygen loss.
“I knew I had just made the ultimate rookie mistake.” [09:50]
Determined, Ogwyn opts to continue ascending rather than retreating, perilously navigating the narrow ridges and the infamous Hillary Step. However, the lack of oxygen soon takes its toll, forcing him to abandon his ascent entirely.
The Descent: A Lonely Struggle
Faced with life-threatening conditions, Ogwyn initiates an urgent descent. He grapples with extreme cold, fierce winds, and weakening physical strength. Interaction with other climbers brings no relief, as the unforgiving environment upholds its moniker—the "death zone," where assistance is scarce and survival is a solitary battle.
“It really is kind of every man for himself above 26,000ft.” [11:40]
Exhausted and dehydrated, Ogwyn nearly succumbs to the elements, experiencing severe frostbite and acute physical distress. A fleeting moment of false hope arises when he encounters what appears to be another climber, only to discover the individual has perished, reinforcing the stark reality of his isolation.
Miraculous Survival and Reflection
Miraculously, Ogwyn reaches the high camp once more, securing a functional oxygen bottle and receiving life-saving sustenance from a Sherpa. As dawn breaks, the treacherous Khumbu Icefall stands as the final barrier between him and safety. With sheer determination, Ogwyn powers through the icefall's dangerous crevasses and treacherous frozen terrain, ultimately making it back to base camp.
Collapsed in his tent, Ogwyn is reunited with Mara, a fellow expedition member and girlfriend of Inyaki, who survived under similar dire circumstances. This poignant encounter with Mara, juxtaposed with the tragic loss of Inyaki, compels Ogwyn to introspect deeply about his motivations and the ethical boundaries of his climbing pursuits.
“I promised myself at that point that I would never return to the Himalayas for the wrong reasons.” [17:50]
Insights and Conclusions
Joby Ogwyn's The Ascent is not merely a tale of physical endurance but a profound exploration of personal ambition, ethical boundaries, and the human spirit's resilience. Ogwyn confronts the thin line between pushing one's limits and risking one's life, ultimately recognizing the invaluable lesson of prioritizing survival and integrity over record-setting achievements.
His reflection on Inyaki's probable disapproval serves as a humbling reminder of the importance of purpose-driven pursuits. Ogwyn vows to honor his experiences by approaching future endeavors with deeper respect and genuine intent, steering clear of motivations driven by fame or financial gain.
Notable Quotes
- Joby Ogwyn [04:00]: “I was going to try to do it in less than 24 hours, and I was going to be all alone.”
- Joby Ogwyn [09:50]: “I knew I had just made the ultimate rookie mistake.”
- Joby Ogwyn [11:40]: “It really is kind of every man for himself above 26,000ft.”
- Joby Ogwyn [17:50]: “I promised myself at that point that I would never return to the Himalayas for the wrong reasons.”
Conclusion
Joby Ogwyn: The Ascent is a compelling narrative that captivates listeners with its raw depiction of ambition, struggle, and survival. Through Ogwyn's vivid storytelling, the episode underscores the profound lessons learned from confronting one's limits and the enduring human capacity to adapt and persevere in the face of life-threatening adversity.
Thank you for listening to The Moth Podcast. We hope you have a story-worthy week!