Summary of "Bone Yard Stretch" by Kira Salak – The Moth Podcast
Episode Title: Bone Yard Stretch
Host/Author: The Moth
Storyteller: Kira Salak
Release Date: September 7, 2009
Length: Approximately 16 minutes
Introduction
In the episode "Bone Yard Stretch," adventurer and writer Kira Salak shares a harrowing firsthand experience from her travels through Mozambique during its devastating civil war. Her story, told live on The Moth stage, vividly captures the thin line between adventure and survival, illustrating the profound impact such experiences can have on one's perception of life and personal resilience.
The Call to Adventure
Kira begins her story by reflecting on her motivation for undertaking perilous journeys: a desire to defy doubts and push her boundaries.
"Whenever someone tells me not to do something, it has always made me want to do it all the more. I feed on people's doubts in me and I use it to sort of fuel my determination." [03:45]
At the age of 20, overcoming personal struggles with severe depression, Kira found empowerment and joy in solo backpacking across Europe and North Africa. This newfound confidence propelled her into more dangerous territories, leading her to Mozambique, then ravaged by a 17-year-long civil war.
Entering Mozambique and the Boneyard Stretch
Determined to witness and document the realities of war, Kira orchestrates her entry into Mozambique, a country torn by conflict. Securing a visa under unlikely circumstances, she learns about the "Boneyard Stretch," a treacherous road cutting through the war zone.
"I learned about a road called the Boneyard Stretch. It was a road that cut through the northern part of Mozambique's war zone from Malawi to Zimbabwe." [07:20]
Kira's encounter with Jerry, a young Zimbabwean truck driver, marks a pivotal moment. Despite the obvious dangers, including his recently damaged truck from rebel attacks, Jerry agrees to take her through the perilous stretch.
"He said, these are bullet holes... I need you to know that this war is real and there's a chance that we could get ambushed by rebel soldiers and hurt or killed." [10:15]
The Reality of War
As Kira and Jerry embark on their journey, the grim reality of war unfolds around them. The desolate landscape of Mozambique is scarred by violence, with remnants of destruction visible at every turn.
"Mozambique itself was a complete wasteland. It was like dried up savanna land, burnt down villages, towns reduced to rubble and covered with bullet holes." [13:40]
Despite the absurdity of blasting Bob Marley amidst such devastation, the soundtrack underscores the surreal juxtaposition of normalcy against chaos.
Encounter with Hostile Soldiers
Midway through the Boneyard Stretch, Jerry's truck breaks down, jeopardizing their precarious position. The convoy providing protection begins to abandon the area, leaving them vulnerable.
"The government soldiers were just an illusion of protection. But it was enough to sort of give us a sense of enough safety to make the crossing." [16:00]
Suddenly, adolescent soldiers—mere teenagers armed with AK-47s and oversized uniforms—spot Kira. Their presence symbolizes the fractured state of authority and the ever-present threat of violence.
"They looked up and they couldn't believe their eyes. They couldn't believe that I was actually in their war and what was I doing there." [18:25]
The Escape
With the collapse of their protective convoy and the imminent threat of abduction, Jerry and Kira face a life-or-death situation. Jerry attempts to fix the truck, but circumstances deteriorate rapidly.
"We were doing this pathetic 20 miles an hour down the boneyard stretch, completely alone in the middle of rebel territory." [24:30]
When government soldiers attempt to seize her, Kira makes a split-second decision to flee. Drawing upon her athletic background as a high school long-distance runner, she escapes into the night, facing the terrifying prospect of being hunted.
"I would run some more. I was terrified to run. I was terrified to hide. I didn't know what I was going to do." [30:10]
After a tense night of evading capture, the first light of dawn offers a glimmer of hope. Kira spots the Zimbabwean border in the distance and makes a desperate push to safety.
"As I approached, I was right. It was the border post. And I could see these trucks parked out in front... I ran over there, and I made it without the soldier seeing me." [45:50]
Impact and Transformation
Surviving the ordeal profoundly alters Kira's outlook on life and her purpose as a storyteller. She reflects on the fragility of existence and the stark realities faced by those living in war-torn regions.
"I grew up overnight from that experience. I lost all of my childhood innocence in that single day and that single night." [55:15]
This experience reinforced her commitment to taking calculated risks in her adventures, driven by a desire to shed light on the harsh truths of conflict and human resilience.
"The truth about the world and the realities that other people have to live with... the truth about myself and that I wanted to be alive." [58:40]
Conclusion
Kira Salak's "Bone Yard Stretch" is a compelling narrative of courage, survival, and the enduring human spirit. Her ability to convey the intense emotions and vivid imagery of her journey offers listeners an intimate glimpse into the complexities of war and the personal metamorphosis that arises from confronting such extreme circumstances.
Note: Quotes are attributed with approximate timestamps based on the provided transcript. In the actual podcast, exact timings may vary slightly.