The Moth Podcast: Steve Barnes & Drew Nieporent Release Date: May 3, 2016
Host: The Moth

The Moth podcast episode titled "Steve Barnes & Drew Nieporent" features two compelling true stories from the world of food and restaurants. Delivered by Steve Barnes and Drew Nieporent, the episode delves into themes of personal adversity, professional challenges, and the intricate dynamics between restaurateurs and critics.

1. Steve Barnes: An Unexplained Attack in a Posh Parking Lot

Timestamp: 02:01 – 15:46

Steve Barnes, a restaurant writer based in Albany's Capital Region, recounts a harrowing experience where he was violently attacked in the parking lot of Creo, a high-end restaurant in Stuyvesant Plaza. What begins as a typical evening dinner outing with his friend Josh swiftly devolves into a traumatic encounter.

The Attack:

As Steve and Josh leave Creo, they notice two men approaching them quickly. Steve describes the aggressor as "bald and muscular" wearing fingerless gloves. Without warning, the man assaults him:

"His fist crashed into my temple. I turned to get away and he tripped me and shoved me, and I went face first into the pavement."
[Timestamp: 02:30]

Despite the brutality, the attacker remains silent, leaving Steve disoriented and in pain until Josh intervenes, managing to subdue the aggressor with a headlock. Bystanders' intervention causes the attacker to flee without explanation.

Investigations and Aftermath:

Local police struggled to find evidence, primarily due to inadequate camera coverage in the parking lot. Steve reflects on the ambiguity surrounding the motive behind the attack:

"There'd been no robbery attempt. The obvious intent had been to separate us. And since I'd gotten so much the worse of it, it looked like I'd been targeted."
[Timestamp: 07:15]

Speculations arose about the assault being a hate crime or retaliation for Steve's journalism, but concrete reasons remained elusive. Months later, a photo array led detectives to identify the attacker as a professional mixed martial arts (MMA) fighter. Despite media frenzy and public scrutiny, procedural errors by the assistant district attorney resulted in the fighter's acquittal.

Steve narrates his complex emotions during the legal proceedings:

"I was indignant. Middle aged? This was five years ago, so I was less middle aged then."
[Timestamp: 13:50]

The story culminates with the revelation that the restaurant owner, implicated by the DA, was concurrently facing unrelated legal issues, ultimately leading to his imprisonment for tax evasion. Steve concludes with a sense of vindication and a profound empathy for victims of unexplained crimes:

"I developed a tremendous sense of empathy for people of random or anonymous crimes who can never say I know why this happened to me."
[Timestamp: 14:30]

2. Drew Nieporent: Navigating the High-Stakes World of Food Criticism

Timestamp: 16:06 – 27:07

Drew Nieporent, an acclaimed restaurateur known for establishments like Tribeca Grill and Nobu, shares an anecdote that underscores the precarious relationship between restaurant owners and food critics.

The Challenge of Opening a Restaurant:

In the late 1970s, Drew aspired to open his own restaurant. He secured a lease for a 1,500 square-foot space in West Broadway, an area that was nascent in its culinary scene. Despite the excitement, Drew was wary of critical reviews, especially from influential critics like Brian Miller of the New York Times.

An Intentional Encounter:

Determined to impress the critic, Drew orchestrates a meticulous plan to observe Brian Miller dining at his upcoming restaurant, Montrachet. Donning a tuxedo and blending into the environment, Drew captures numerous photos of Miller, albeit without a clear shot of his face:

"I developed the film. 18 shots of his fucking back. I didn't have one shot of his face, honestly."
[Timestamp: 24:30]

The Critical Moment:

On the evening of the review, Drew notices that Brian Miller has reserved a table under the alias "Benson." Prepared to ensure a favorable experience, Drew and his team go the extra mile. However, a mishap occurs when a dish—rabbit salad—accidentally includes a chewed piece of kidney, leading to a frantic kitchen scramble.

"Out came a flying piece of fucking kidney that had been chewed and gnarled."
[Timestamp: 25:00]

Despite the blunder, Drew anxiously awaits the critic's assessment. The subsequent review is surprisingly positive, awarding Montrachet three stars and omitting any mention of the kidney incident. This validation is a pivotal moment for Drew, reinforcing the impact of critical acclaim on his venture.

Reflections on the Industry:

Drew emphasizes the significance of reviews in the restaurant industry, particularly the lifeline they can be for new establishments:

"Every person's life savings in the place... the food was good."
[Timestamp: 26:00]

He concludes by highlighting the unpredictable nature of critiques and the importance of perseverance and attention to detail in sustaining a successful restaurant.

Conclusion

This episode of The Moth intricately weaves two narratives from the food industry, showcasing the vulnerability and resilience of individuals navigating personal and professional crises. Steve Barnes's story is a raw portrayal of unexpected violence and the quest for truth and justice, while Drew Nieporent's tale highlights the delicate balance between culinary passion and the influential power of media criticism. Together, these stories offer listeners profound insights into the human experiences behind the restaurant world's facade.

Notable Quotes:

• Steve Barnes:

  • "I couldn't imagine for what."
    [07:45]
  • "It was also a direct affront to the First Amendment."
    [14:10]

• Drew Nieporent:

  • "If you ever get the name Benson, just take good care of him."
    [26:30]
  • "Every person's life savings in the place."
    [26:00]

This comprehensive summary provides an in-depth overview of the "Steve Barnes & Drew Nieporent" episode, capturing the essence of both storytellers' experiences and the broader themes they explore.