Podcast Summary: The New Yorker Radio Hour

Episode: “Kelly Slater’s Perfect Wave Brings Surfing to a Crossroads”

Hosted by David Remnick | Reporter: William Finnegan

Date: December 27, 2019

Overview:

This episode dives deep into the intersection of technology and tradition in surfing, centered on Kelly Slater’s artificial “perfect wave” at the Surf Ranch in California. Pulitzer-winning writer and lifelong surfer William Finnegan reports from the man-made facility, examining how Slater’s innovation is transforming professional surfing, stirring controversy, and prompting existential questions within surf culture.

Key Discussion Points & Insights:

1. The Arrival of Artificial Perfection

• [00:59] William Finnegan recounts how Kelly Slater’s release of a video showing an artificial, perfectly formed wave at the Surf Ranch in Lemoore, California sent shockwaves through the surf world.
  • “It's an artificial wave. It's not in the ocean. It's incredibly precise, machine tool-like... But then Slater paddles out and takes off on a wave and it's six feet. I mean, it's just the most incredible wave you've ever seen.” — William Finnegan [01:46]
• Previous wave pools for surfing existed, but nobody had created one rivaling the quality, power, and length of ocean waves until now.

2. Engineering the Wave & the “Level Playing Field”

• [04:25] Slater and his team conducted extensive simulations and real-world tests to develop the wave—aiming for uniformity to eliminate luck.
  • “So often in the ocean, a person wins because they got the right waves, not because they were necessarily the better surfer. So... the best surfer to win.” — Kelly Slater [04:42]
• The wave pool makes for fairer competition, crucial for professional contests.

3. Pro Surfers Respond: The Allure and Challenges

• [05:33] Stephanie Gilmore, seven-time world champion, discusses the unique pressures and opportunities of surfing the artificial wave:
  • “When you take off on the wave, you can't. I mean, the feeling of having the most perfect wave come towards you... All these crazy little things that you shouldn't even think about.” — Stephanie Gilmore [06:06]
• The pool allows for scheduled, broadcast-friendly competitions, helping the sport grow and attract new audiences.

4. The Business & Technology of the Surf Ranch

• [07:39] The World Surf League’s (WSL) acquisition of the Kelly Slater wave company signals a push to mainstream surfing—hoping to become as prominent as NBA/NFL.
• [09:00] Gerald Kubiak and Adam Fincham (lead engineer, specialist in fluid dynamics) reveal the advanced machinery and engineering at work—compared more to mining than a theme park.
  • “We're not a theme park, we're not a ride... we're more akin to a mining industry.” — Adam Fincham [10:51]
• They can program the wave for various skill levels, literally creating a “God’s control room” for surf conditions.
  • “I'm gonna open up the barrel, make it go faster, make it smaller, bigger.” — William Finnegan [11:52]

5. Nostalgia and Existential Questions

• [13:50] Finnegan considers how, while the perfection of the pool is alluring, it’s “like falling in love with a robot”—missing the ocean’s unpredictability and adventure.
• [14:16] Stephanie Gilmore reflects on the changes:
  • “We could sit here and be sad about it, or we could just accept it... those [ocean] moments are still the most magical moments in surfing.” — Stephanie Gilmore [14:19]

6. Surfers’ Worries: The Future and Purity of Surfing

• [16:13] Concerns that surfing could become crowded and accessible to those without essential ocean skills.
  • “Somebody could learn to surf incredibly inland somewhere and be like world champion material and be unable to paddle out. Doesn’t know how to duck dive.” — William Finnegan [16:13]
  • “Yeah, they can win in a wave pool, but they're probably going to drown at Pipeline.” — Stephanie Gilmore [16:29]

7. Reflection with Matt Warshaw: Surfing’s Meaning

• [18:38] Finnegan calls surf historian Matt Warshaw to process the experience. Both marvel at the perfection of the Surf Ranch wave yet feel it undermines decades of questing for ocean waves.
  • “It reminded me of 1986 and the drugs have run out... I just wanted more and more and more. And I've ridden a lot of great waves ... I’ve never surfed a wave like that before. So it seemed to somehow make smaller, you know, my whole lifelong pursuit of good surf.” — Matt Warshaw [19:50]
• They agree that much of surfing’s appeal comes from the ocean’s caprices, not just riding a wave.
  • “The only reason the sport is interesting is because of the ocean... Otherwise we're just doing parkour, right?” — Matt Warshaw [21:43]

Memorable Quotes:

• William Finnegan [01:46]: “It's an artificial wave. It's not in the ocean. It's incredibly precise, machine tool-like... It's just the most incredible wave you've ever seen.”
• Kelly Slater [04:42]: “So often in the ocean, a person wins because they got the right waves, not because they were necessarily the better surfer... allow the best surfer to win.”
• Stephanie Gilmore [06:06]: “All these crazy little things that you shouldn't even think about.”
• Adam Fincham [10:51]: “We're not a theme park, we're not a ride... we're more akin to a mining industry.”
• William Finnegan [13:50]: “It's like falling in love with a robot.”
• Matt Warshaw [19:50]: “It reminded me of 1986 and the drugs have run out... I just wanted more and more and more.”
• Matt Warshaw [21:43]: “The only reason the sport is interesting is because of the ocean... Otherwise we're just doing parkour, right?”

Timeline of Important Segments & Insights:

• 00:59 – The shock of Kelly Slater’s artificial wave
• 04:25 – Engineering for a fair and replicable competition
• 05:33 – Stephanie Gilmore on adapting to man-made waves and broadcast benefits
• 09:00 – Gerald Kubiak and Adam Fincham on the machinery and technology
• 13:50 – The existential “robot love” of the perfect wave
• 14:19 – Gilmore on navigating nostalgia vs. progress
• 16:13 – Fears of diluting surfing’s ocean-based skills and culture
• 18:38 – Surf historian Matt Warshaw’s personal, conflicted reaction

Tone and Style:

Warm, reflective, sometimes wistful, the episode balances awe at technological progress with questions about surfing’s soul. The voices of legends and experts blend nostalgia, excitement, and skepticism—offering listeners an insider’s tour through a sport at its own crossroads.

Final Thoughts:

The Surf Ranch and Kelly Slater’s perfect wave stand as symbols of surfing’s shift—offering an unprecedented, controlled experience, pro-level fairness, and new commercial horizons. Yet, the sport’s heart remains tethered to the unpredictable ocean, with many, like Finnegan and Warshaw, uncertain if perfection is a worthy trade for adventure.

For further reading: Check out William Finnegan’s article on Kelly Slater’s artificial wave at newyorker.com.