Podcast
The Nugget Climbing Podcast
Hosted by Steven Dimmitt · EN
Welcome to a podcast about performance climbing, self-improvement, and being a human being.
5M+ downloads.
"One of the best long-form interview podcasts in the outdoor space." - Climbing Magazine
17episodes
Episodes
Newest firstAll episodes
EP 301: Matt Samet — Escaping Benzo Addiction, Rifle in the Early ‘90s, and Embracing the Moonboard in His 40s
6d ago02:10:38Tap to summarizeMatt Samet is the former editor-in-chief of Climbing Magazine, a writer and author, and a sport-climbing pioneer. We talked about his decade-plus battle with benzo addiction, his advice for people who experience anxiety or depression, what Rifle was like in the early ‘90s, how Chris Sharma broke the paradigm, embracing training to send his hardest routes, his new role with the American Alpine Club, and the inaugural American Climbing Journal coming later this year. You can learn more at americanalpineclub.org Free Masterclass (Unlock Your Full Potential in Climbing) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com Climb Accelerator (Direct Link to Course) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com/climb-accelerator Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/matt-samet Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:02:27) – Teasing topics (00:05:34) – Panic attacks (00:10:19) – Benzos addiction (00:26:45) – Setback & self-care (00:36:32) – Matt’s biggest lesson (00:43:48) – Matt’s advice for anxiety & depression (00:48:36) – Rifle in the early '90s (01:08:07) – Sharma broke the paradigm (01:14:10) – Embracing the Moonboard (01:21:46) – Training results (01:30:24) – Matt’s climbing now (01:32:28) – Moonboard math (01:36:52) – An alternative to 4x4s (01:39:15) – Matt’s route projects (01:45:49) – Loving climbing more than ever (01:50:59) – The American Climbing Journal (02:04:59) – Adam Ondra appreciation riff (02:08:14) – Wrap up
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EP 300: Jeff Patterson — What Climbers Can Learn from Martial Arts (and How 20 Minutes of Meditation Could Change Your Life)
3w ago01:01:11Tap to summarizeJeff Patterson is a martial arts instructor with black belt equivalency in 6x different martial arts, including Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu, Muay Thai, and Tai Chi. We talked about how practicing the meditative arts helped his boxing, how 20 minutes of meditation per day for 1 year can permanently change your life, breathing tips for climbers, how to regulate your nervous system, and much more. You can learn more about Jeff at theyieldingwarrior.com Free Masterclass (Unlock Your Full Potential in Climbing) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com Climb Accelerator (Direct Link to Course) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com/climb-accelerator Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jeff-patterson Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:01:30) – Jeff’s background in martial arts (00:04:26) – How Tai Chi helped his boxing (00:13:37) – The Meditative Arts (00:16:55) – What climbers can learn from martial arts (00:20:31) – 20 minutes per day for 1 year (00:23:58) – 3 considerations (00:33:35) – Nervous system regulation (00:45:01) – Tangible tips (00:51:06) – Make the commitment (00:52:56) – Comparing martial arts (00:55:33) – Letting go of the mask (00:58:35) – Where to find Jeff (00:59:20) – Final advice
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EP 299: Herm Feissner — A Unique Training Philosophy at Age 53, Understanding Hard Moves, and Balancing an Engineering Career with Travel & Climbing
May 1402:09:48Tap to summarizeHerm Feissner is a lifer climber based in Fort Collins, CO. We talked about doing the FA of The Practitioner V11 in Leavenworth, WA, in the early 2000s, his training philosophy at 53 years old, how his relationship with climbing has improved, balancing an engineering career with traveling and climbing, discovering and understanding moves, the boulder he is most psyched to complete, and much more. Free Masterclass (Unlock Your Full Potential in Climbing) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com Climb Accelerator (Direct Link to Course) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com/climb-accelerator Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/herm-feissner Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:01:38) – FA of The Practitioner V11 (00:08:38) – Getting into climbing in 1987 (00:22:18) – Climbing with stronger people (00:27:51) – Evolving through the disciplines (00:33:12) – CATS (00:37:11) – Herm’s training philosophy (00:44:32) – Aging & improving (00:55:22) – Avoiding the expiration date (01:01:05) – How Herm’s climbing has changed (01:07:35) – How hard Herm climbs (01:10:27) – Who will push bouldering to the next level? (01:20:27) – Herm’s grading criteria (01:27:25) – How his relationship with climbing has improved (01:30:35) – Relationships (01:38:22) – Boarding school & engineering (01:50:12) – How to be outside (01:58:57) – Discovering & understanding moves (02:02:59) – I Portici (02:08:02) – Wrap up
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EP 298: Sonnie Trotter — Gunning for 5.15, How He Trained as a Teen, and Stamina vs. Strength
Apr 2702:07:52Tap to summarizeSonnie Trotter is a Canadian professional rock climber and one of the most accomplished and respected climbers of his generation. We talked about his goal to climb 5.15, my impression of meeting him at Smith Rock, our parallel family histories, treating life as a game, how the Cobra Crack changed his career, how he trained as a teenager, stamina vs. strength, what makes Dave Graham so strong, and his book, Uplifted: The Evolution of a Climbing Life. Free Masterclass (Unlock Your Full Potential in Climbing) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com Climb Accelerator (Direct Link to Course) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com/climb-accelerator Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/sonnie-trotter Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:03:38) – Connor Herson’s 5.15a FAs (00:09:35) – Gunning for 5.15 (00:11:49) – Meeting Sonnie at Smith Rock (00:20:37) – His life routine (00:24:43) – Sonnie’s kids (00:29:24) – Time warp (00:33:24) – Family history (00:39:35) – Life is a game (00:42:45) – The business side of Sonnie’s life (00:53:19) – Choices & constraints (01:03:07) – Cobra Crack (01:09:20) – The progression of climbing (01:16:24) – Getting sponsored (01:20:07) – The age of print media (01:24:34) – Rifle in the 90s (01:30:52) – How he trained as a teenager (01:36:04) – Stamina vs. strength (01:45:30) – Sticking to the basics (01:49:31) – What makes Dave Graham so strong (01:54:33) – Writing his book
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EP 297: Peter Mortimer (filmmaker) — Dean Potter’s Rivalry with Alex Honnold, His Inner Demons, and The Dark Wizard
Apr 1400:54:15Tap to summarizePeter Mortimer is an award-winning filmmaker (King Lines, Valley Uprising, The Dawn Wall, The Alpinist) and co-creator of the Reel Rock Film Tour. We talked about his latest project, The Dark Wizard, a new 4-part documentary series now streaming on HBO Max about Dean Potter, which shares the full story of Dean in all of his human complexity—as a visionary, climbing legend, and a tormented soul. Free Masterclass (Unlock Your Full Potential in Climbing) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com Join Climb Accelerator (Earlybird Sale) 👉 https://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com/climb-accelerator Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/peter-mortimer Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:01:21) – Peter’s film career (00:11:54) – Hustling (00:15:28) – The Dark Wizard (00:31:14) – Inside Dean’s mind (00:38:34) – Dean’s rivalry with Alex Honnold (00:49:42) – Everything on the table (00:51:25) – Where to watch (00:52:34) – Where to follow Peter
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EP 296: Dave Thompson — Early FAs in Leavenworth, Applying Your Strength on the Wall, and Personal Agency
Apr 701:46:45Tap to summarizeDave Thompson is a 5.14 and V14 first ascentionist, alpinist, and coach for Evoke Endurance. We talked about his early climbing in the North Cascade mountains of Washington State, doing the first ascent of some of the best hard boulders in Leavenworth (Beautification, God is in the Details, The Teacup), how he got so strong, how to apply your strength on the wall, the challenges of endurance training in climbing, and more. Free Masterclass (Unlock Your Full Potential in Climbing) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/dave-thompson Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:02:29) – Dave’s path to rock climbing (00:07:31) – Bob Buckley (00:10:42) – The Teacup FA (00:14:54) – Dave’s coaching philosophy (00:25:53) – How Dave got up to V14 (00:37:05) – A way of moving (00:43:19) – How to improve your gym sessions (00:48:11) – Training (00:55:54) – Dave’s climbing and coaching (00:58:53) – Dave coaches me on The Teacup (01:02:48) – FAs in the Methow Valley (01:06:59) – FAs in Leavenworth (01:11:16) – How strong can adults get at climbing? (01:13:18) – Personal agency (01:20:34) – Catching a wave (01:23:46) – Bouldering efficiency session (01:30:32) – Evoke success (01:36:47) – Training for sport climbing (01:43:25) – Not thinking (01:44:17) – How to connect with Dave
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EP 295: Sam Watson — The Fastest Climber in the World on His Routines, Mental Process, & the Olympics
Mar 2301:55:13Tap to summarizeSam Watson is the current world record holder in speed climbing (4.64 seconds) and an Olympic Bronze medalist. We talked about breaking the world record in Paris, how he makes a living, building a social media following in China, the future potential of speed climbing, recovery routines and tools, chess, favorite books, airport stoicism, and more. Free Masterclass (Unlock Your Full Potential in Climbing) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/sam-watson Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:01:38) – Winter Olympics (00:05:48) – Breaking the World Record in Paris (00:14:20) – Winning Bronze in Paris (00:25:50) – LA Olympics (00:30:11) – How Sam makes a living (00:34:49) – Building a following in China (00:38:40) – Different speed formats (00:42:38) – Pro Climbing League (00:51:15) – Sam’s intro to speed climbing (01:12:35) – Sam’s future career arc (01:20:48) – Recovery routines & tools (01:24:15) – Journaling & Chris Sharma (01:29:31) – The culture of speed climbing (01:32:08) – The potential of speed (01:38:43) – Speed Classic (01:40:42) – Sam’s potential & the 0.1 rule (01:46:03) – Sub 6 for the women (01:47:33) – Hobbies & books (01:51:23) – Sam’s upcoming goals (01:52:08) – Airport stoicism (01:53:34) – Where to find Sam
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EP 294: Melissa Strong — Dying and Coming Back to Life, Having Her Arms Sewn Together, and Returning to Climbing with 7 ¾ Fingers
Mar 901:30:45Tap to summarizeMelissa Strong is a boulderer and restaurateur based in Estes Park, CO, who nearly lost her life in an electrocution accident in April 2017. We talked about her accident, what she experienced on the other side of the veil, having her arms sewn together, what climbing was like before and after the accident, skin graft DNA, the healing process of writing Climbing Through, and much more. You can learn more about Melissa at melissaistrong.com Buy Her Book: Climbing Through: A Courageous Story of Grit, Healing, and Second Chances by Melissa Strong Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/melissa-strong Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:01:40) – Melissa’s hands (00:04:54) – Life before her accident (00:09:05) – The accident (00:14:56) – The Forest & The Tunnel (00:30:55) – Arms sewn together (00:47:25) – Climbing before & after the accident (00:58:29) – Skin graft DNA (01:00:20) – The expiration date of climbing (01:08:34) – What comes after climbing (01:14:40) – Writing her book (01:21:03) – What’s next (01:24:46) – Where to buy the book (01:26:13) – How Bird & Jim got its name
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EP 293: Joel Unema — Unlocking V14 Finger Strength, the Key to Long Roof Boulders, and a Better Way to Train Power Endurance
Feb 2302:04:01Tap to summarizeJoel Unema is a high-performance rock climber and coach for Climb Strong, and has climbed V14 and 5.14b. We talked about how Tyler Nelson helped him unlock V14 finger strength, how Steve Bechtel helped him send a 20+ move roof boulder, how to optimize your power endurance for a sport climbing trip, and much more. Buckle up for a good old-fashioned training chat. The Nugget Training App (14-Day Free Trial) 👉 http://training.thenuggetclimbing.com FREE Finger Training PDF 👉 thenuggetclimbing.com/grinds The NUG 👉 https://frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/joel-unema Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:02:00) – Hurricave (00:04:37) – Dirtbike crash (00:07:22) – Balance vs. compromise (00:12:30) – The bigger picture (00:16:22) – Joel’s breakthrough season (00:22:43) – Finger Training with Tyler Nelson (00:37:20) – Roof Training with Steve Bechtel (00:46:51) – Ice cube moments (00:58:58) – Hi-Low (01:05:53) – Training for a sport climbing trip (01:11:54) – Pacing & metabolic specificity (01:15:45) – Training for a sport climbing trip continued (01:18:10) – Riding the rollercoaster (01:26:18) – Floor & ceiling (01:35:55) – Achievement to experience (01:39:00) – Strength training (01:45:39) – My Hueco goals (01:49:03) – Joel’s goals (01:52:13) – The Teacup (01:56:03) – Wrap up
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EP 292: Tom Randall — How to Program Your Training Like a Pro (Repost from Patreon)
Feb 901:48:07Tap to summarizeToday, I am resharing one of the most valuable episodes I have ever recorded. This episode with Tom Randall was originally aired on Patreon in Feb, 2022. We talked about how to use your friends to discover your strengths and weaknesses, how to work backward from goals, how long it takes to make major changes in your climbing, like switching from bouldering to sport climbing, and much more. Don’t skip this episode if you are a self-coached climber.The Nugget Training App (14-Day Free Trial) 👉 http://training.thenuggetclimbing.comThe NUG 👉 https://frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugKey Takeaways PDF 👉 https://thenuggetclimbing.squarespace.com/s/Key-Takeaways_Updated.pdfFull Show Notes 👉 thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tom-randall-repost-from-patreon
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