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- [00:03]
Alon Ben Joseph
Foreign.
- [00:07]
Rob Nudds
And welcome to another edition of the Real Time show with me, your friendly neighborhood watchmaker, Rob Nudds and my friendly neighborhood jeweler, co host, Alon Ben Joseph. We are back together in the studio celebrating our two year anniversary which passed just a week ago to take us back to where it all began, analyzing the upcoming GPHG Awards which will be held in Geneva next Wednesday on 13th November 2024 in the teat de la man near the lake, where we are very used to seeing all of our friends at fairs throughout the year. So it's going to be an exciting day I'm going to attend this year. I've never been before Alon, so I'm quite excited to see what it's like in real life. Have you ever been to the GPHG in real life?
- [00:48]
Alon Ben Joseph
So, funnily enough, I haven't. This is my fifth year as a GPHD Academy member and I'm going to do my best to fly out on the 13th of November. It's still up in the air, no pun intended. So I'm actually very excited to see if we can make it together because it's not going to be double the fun, it's going to be 10 times the fun whenever we're together and before we run down all the nominations and do our game, because this is the third time we are doing this game and I believe that if you do something three times in a row, it makes a tradition. So I want to congratulate you for coping with me for two years on the Real Time show. And more importantly, this is a huge thank you to our community and our dear listeners. Thank you for supporting us the last two years, for the passion, the energy, the feedback, the interactions. We call our TRTS community the Watch Asylum. So thank you. We cannot do it without you and we would not have done it without you. So please keep on doing whatever you do because it works. It gives me energy.
- [02:02]
Rob Nudds
Gives you too much energy, in my opinion. But let's harness some of that and see if we can use it to burst through the nominations from this year. The way we're going to do it is we're going to highlight each category as we normally do. We're going to give a brief explanation of the pieces within that category. We're not going to go into too much detail about all six nominations as we will find in every category. We're going to pick out top one or maybe top two each. If there's a bit of a tie, any interesting discussion points will raise around that. We'll bounce back and forth. And then at the very end, maybe we'll do a couple of things. Firstly, we will have a look at some of the models that were nominated or should I say entered into the competition but didn't make it through to the nomination stage. And we'll talk about some glaring omissions. And then finally, we will pick our favorite watch of the entire event. Okay, as always, we kick off with the ladies category, which, to be fair, is not hugely experimental. It's normally much of the same. But there's a couple of interesting points within this selection of six that we should probably discuss. But let's just break down what we've got. We have got from Arnold and son a bejeweled and I say mother of pearl marquetry dial called the perpetual moon 38 night tide. So it uses their big moon caliber Chopard Alpine Eagle 33. It's in gold. It has a turquoise dial, it has a diamond bezel and diamond markers for the intermediary hour markers. So not the Cardinal markers of 12, 3, 6, 9, they're applied Roman numerals. We have Faberge colors of love rose gold, rainbow gemstone watch, which is pretty much what it says in the title. It has a rainbow bezel of stones. It has a guilloche pattern dial and diamond set mad numerals, which are quite cool. Hermes Hermes cut. This is the new sporty time only watch from Hermes. Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF automatic 36 diamond set. Parmigiani always ends up being nominated in this category, and rightly so. They are one of the leaders in the women's sports watch space. But this is much the same from what we've seen before. And then Van Cleef and Appel again. Another regular offender in this category, the Lady Jeu Nuit, which is a beautiful dark blue dial diamond set watch. Okay, Elon, take it away.
- [04:21]
Alon Ben Joseph
So before I take it away, many listeners of this podcast love to scroll while listening and this is very relevant for this episode even more than any other. So go to gphg.org in the menu you'll find 2024 Edition. The submenu is nominated watches and that's where Rob and I are actually looking. So Rob, I think that you went for the Parmigiani Fleurier because you often do. So that's the benefit of something. Become a tradition. You, you have past results to delve from. I believe you were contemplating between the Hermes and the Parmigiani Fleurier, but I stick with my vote and your little hint in your intro feeds my voting right now. So tell us what you've picked and what do you think I have picked?
- [05:22]
Rob Nudds
Okay, so unfortunately you are wrong, but close. I did choose the Hermes and I chose it as I often do with these female categories because I think this is actually a really nice watch for a daily wear. It's accessible, price is good, the quality is great. Hermes has built this reputation from a producer of leather goods, primarily in scarves, up to a very credible watchmaker. I think it's a moment for Hermes to win and to be half competition from the five bejeweled pieces around, it would be quite a statement. Is the industry going to make it? I'm not sure. I think the Van Cleef and Appel might win, but I chose the Hermes. Now, for me, this is a really difficult category to pick for you because you are a diamond expert and there's a lot of stones being set around the place. I'm going to discount the Parmigiani Fleurier and the Chopard because I think that they're just bejeweled versions of non jeweled watches. And I think you would probably lean towards either something like Medias or something that expresses more handcraft. And I'm going to go with the latter because, well, it's your field of interest. And even though I don't like it very much because of the skill and the work that's gone into it, and I know the way you respect this kind of craft, I'm going to say that you went for the Arnold and.
- [06:38]
Alon Ben Joseph
Son, not ding, ding, ding, ding, ding.
- [06:43]
Rob Nudds
Don't tell me it's Van Cleef.
- [06:45]
Alon Ben Joseph
No, it's neither. It's nil. Nil. But my second vote is Hermes indeed. Because what I love here is the voting has shown that the market, and especially ladies that like watches, are a bit offended when you take a regular model that originally was made for men, downsized it for female wrists, and then when you add diamonds, it's suddenly a ladies watch. Right. Women today, and especially the collectors don't like that. So your, your initial analogy was correct. I love the fact that Hermes is in this category without any gemstone on it. And I love Hermes. And the one thing that besides they make beautiful designs and watches and they take the art of watchmaking very serious because they invest in manufactures, et cetera. The fonts, the fonts do it for me.
- [07:45]
Rob Nudds
Yeah.
- [07:46]
Alon Ben Joseph
And also with the Hermes cut, compliments. So I hope that they win. But I went for the Faberge and how Could I have not gone for the Faberge because there are a few voice memes already in the TRTS community.
- [08:00]
Rob Nudds
Oh, no. Tutti frutti. I missed it. Oh, dear. I dropped the ball there. You missed it. Actually, you know, I would have had that one in third, if I'm being totally honest, because I. I respect it, but I don't like it very much. I think it's a bit crass. And I thought. I just had a feeling you were going to go for the more complex style, but, yeah, I get it now.
- [08:17]
Alon Ben Joseph
Okay, so why did I go for it? I couldn't have voted for anything else because of this joke and this internal TRTS joke that I shout to t FR all day long. But from a perspective as a diamante and gemologist, they've done the rainbow, although it's a bit passe now. So Faberge, get with the program. We're getting off the rainbow slash tooty fruity train. But I love the fact that this is a oval watch. Not only do I like the most famous oval watch for women, which is Rand the Naples by Bret or the Gondolo oval by Patek, but this is almost an egg shape. And why is this so important? Because Faberge originally made those beautiful enamel eggs that were collected mostly by Russian royalty back in the day. So I love that fact. I love that the gems go from small to big, from 12 to 6. I love the fact what they did with the numbers. So they're dancing interconnected numbers. So. And look at the hands, Rob. Beautiful hands. So they took watchmaking very serious, very relevant. Arnold Son got a beautiful third position. I guess you voted for that one because I loved the Beware entry for only watch. And that reminds me of that watch.
- [09:39]
Rob Nudds
Yeah, it's not a watch I like at all. I just had a feeling you might go for it. But, yeah, I like your choice. I like your reasoning to a point. But I hope that you're right with the Hermes having come of age and they get rewarded for entering mature and beautiful daily wear into that category. Let's move on to the ladies complication. I'll just run down the models as quickly as I can and then I'll guess yours, I guess, is the way it goes. Right. So it's nil. Nil. At the moment we have again, a world timer from Anderson Janeffe, which, if memory serves, is very similar to the one last year, but I think the one last year was white gold or platinum. This is rose gold with a lovely cherry blossom bridge design. It looks to be Mount Fuji in the background. I think that's what it is from the image. Then we have the Chaumet swing which is a heavily diamond set watch with baguette diamonds around the outside in clear and purple or lilac tones. And then a dial that looks to me like feathers. Continuing with the feathery or at least winged theme we have the Faberge Complique Butterfly Blooms Sincere Platinum jubilee edition which is quite a piece of work to be fair. It has a script style numeral chapter ring around the outside and it has an indicator in the middle of the dial for the minutes. It has a small butterfly on the dial and a beautifully enameled and stone set background. Then we have a Louis Vuitton Tambour Slim Vivienne Jumping Hours Sakura. Some great names, again with a Japanese theme. Interesting. Very nice. I don't really know where to start with this piece but there's a small character with a little parasol and a beautiful floral headdress or something along the lines of that in the middle. And again cherry blossom creeping onto the dial from the 3 to 4 o'clock position and then popping up again around 9 and 10. Then we have the Trilob, the exquisite Hour secret unique piece which is a constellation inspired model using Trilob's traditional. Well it's become traditional indication system with the rotating discs. And this one has a moon phase in the offset sub dial. Then we have the Van Cleef and Appel Lady Appel Breeze Dete. So this is a beautiful dial with micro painted flowers by looks of things. Or is it Champlain enamel? Quite impressive regardless to look at. And it has a diamond set bezel. Right. I have to guess your pick. Lots of stones, lots of good work. But I can't get away from your respect for Trilob. And this is a kind of unusual piece to find in the ladies complication. I think it stands out. I think you're gonna say that one again.
- [12:35]
Alon Ben Joseph
No. Ding ding.
- [12:37]
Rob Nudds
Off to a bad start this year.
- [12:38]
Alon Ben Joseph
We are. And I think it's the lack of sleep, the humongous travel you're doing and either you need more coffee or another drink to top off what you've ended last night.
- [12:49]
Rob Nudds
No, but to be honest, I have no idea what you've picked it. I like, I really don't. I don't even know what my second guess would be. I mean the Faberge is beautiful but I. I just don't know. I don't know.
- [12:58]
Alon Ben Joseph
To be very honest, it's a very difficult category When I had to vote for this I might have lingered the longest time here because the Anderson and the T. Loeb are not really ladies ladies. So they took a watch they have and it's a minor iteration. So I don't think this is the Oscars of the watch industry worthy. Now I leaned towards Vuitton because I found it funny and fun. Although I think the diamonds actually discount the whole artistic design and complication of the watch because I think it's fun. The jumping hours. Now the Faberge go. Same story. I find it fun how the numbers dance. But the diamonds were not necessary. I have no idea what the swing of the Chaumat is doing. So I went for the Van Cleef. Although I was disappointed that the push button at 8:00 is not a minute repeater. It's, and I say this respectfully just for the animation. So that's my vote but not wholeheartedly. Now I have no idea what you have voted so I am scared. You did almost the same reasoning as I did. So I went for the Lady Arpel Brise de as well for you.
- [14:21]
Rob Nudds
Ah, I really thought you were going to get this one because I'm just following exactly the same path as did last year and I'm going for the Anderson Geneve because I kind of like exactly what you described as a negative. Like I think this is a really elegant, beautiful watch. It's a bit more under the radar. It has a feminine esque center dial. Men could certainly wear it as well. But that's what I kind of like. You know, I just think it's the best watch. Watch like the most easy to wear and. Yeah. Okay. Is it, is it particularly outstanding in the category in comparison to the others? Well, no, but it's. What do they, what do the kids say these days? Demure and mindful or mindful and demure? I've seen these memes. I don't know what they mean but it's, it's classy, it's stylish, it's, it's a great watchmaker doing great things. And this dial in particular of these world timers that he does, this is probably my favorite I've ever seen. I think it's just serene. So we're still stuck on nil. Nil. And now we move over to. Okay, we can be quick on this category, I think. So we're on to time only. We have six entrants, a few of which we've discussed at length on the show already. We're going to start with the Berneron Mirage Sienna from our Good friend and former guest on the show, Sylvan Berneron. We've got Bernard Lederer with the three time certified observatory chronometer, a watch that we held in our hands during Geneva watch days and enjoyed talking with Bernard about Chopard Luc Quality Fleurier. This is a very elegant watch with some rather attractive modern horns. It's kind of like a take on the. A modern take on the Conde Vache kind of lugs that we see there. Something for which Chopard is already known. Lovely hands, very interesting, subtle design but not very striking. Japek got dome, which is of course Japek's new promenade model which has the rippled dial in enamel with the offset seconds. HMOZMC streamliner, small seconds, blue enamel. This is the watch that famously brought me to tears in a meeting. I think that was actually the previous Geneva watch days, wasn't it? So this one's been around for a while, but it just snuck in to the eligible watches due to its release date rather than its announcement date and that's crucial. And then the Parmigiani Tonda PF Micro no date gorgeous watch, but again quite basic. Shall we just say our answer in unison? I guess.
- [16:49]
Alon Ben Joseph
No, no. This is a very important category so.
- [16:52]
Rob Nudds
Of course it's an important category.
- [16:53]
Alon Ben Joseph
I'll go first. So you and I would have voted hands down blind Berneron immediately because well, you know me, I ordered one, so I'm not objective here. The moment I've seen the prototype, I believe that's almost three years ago, I fell literally off my chair and I ordered one on the spot. Mine is bound to arrive soon, so enough shouted from there on to Sylvain. Actually everybody who wanted to listen to me that he's going to win a gphg. So to make it a self fulfilling prophecy, I had to vote for him. I did vote for him. So there goes my vote. I already gave it away and I think you did as well. But because you and I both seen the letter, we started hesitating because there goes so much thought and philosophy into that watch that you and I were really taken aback in a positive sense. And then I have a doubt about what you actually have voted for because we know how much of a fan you are of Capek and Xavier and you're a good friend of him and them as a team and you're actually very important to them and you're very discreet even to me because even if I torture you, release secrets on projects you work on, but I have a faint feeling that you might have to Do a little bit about something about the GOT D. And my gosh, how much do I love that dial? My favorite Bulgari ever is the Tadao Ando Octo with the Japanese garden vibe, which does the central. The sub seconds dialogue on around the 8 o'clock position and creates ripples. This is better. I love the collective horology collab with Chapek, which was the sand dunes of the sea on the dial, but my gosh, this is delicious, this watch. So. And we know how much you love the Moser, so. And the Parmigiani. So actually you love all six, and you would have bought all six if you had the funds, but to shut up. You voted Berner on as well.
- [19:10]
Rob Nudds
I did, yeah. Ding, ding, ding. Won a piece. It was it. Look, it was an easy choice because we've been saying it right from the start, as you said, this is a GPHG winner. It deserves it. It's a generational piece. It's incredible. It is one of the strongest brand launchers we've ever seen, but it was lined up against five other great watches. But I have an order for these watches, so I'll just tell you. In sixth place, I would have put the Chopard. In fifth, I would have put the Parmigiani, because I love Parmigiani. It's the only reason why it beat out the show pad, which is excellently finished and interesting in its design. Third place was. Or fourth and third were tough. This was probably later in fourth and Chapek in third because of my bias towards Chapek. But I had nothing to do with this God do model at all, nor the Promenade collection. I was just a very pleased onlooker when they dropped that. This year, second place would be the Moza, simply because this is the model for me that is the greatest execution of the streamliner concepts. And it did make me cry, so I can't ignore it. But number one, by far and away, to be honest, is the Burner Run. I would have voted for that blind, having not seen all six. And when I did, although there's a stiff challenge from the other five, nothing comes close to knocking it off its perch. So one apiece, thanks to Sylvan. Let's move on to the men's category, which is, you know, I had to check then whether this was, like, men's complication, because you look at it and you're like, jesus, is this what they're entering in the men's these days? All right, now, tough one to choose from. We have the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Platinum, which is one of Bulgari's super thin complicated watches. The Garrick S3 MK2 or Mark 2 if you prefer. The Grand Seiko manual winding, high beat 36000, 36000. So that's the operating frequency of the movement. Hajime Asuka Tsunami Art Deco Parmigiani flurry Toric petite second platinum and the Voodoo line and KV2Oi reversed, which has the balance visible on the dial around 12 o'clock. Tough one. Whose choice is it to guess first? It's mine, isn't it? Damn it. Okay, I'm. Oh dear me. I am all over the place on this one for you. I. I'm going to kick out the Hajime and the Grand Seiko immediately and then probably kick out the Parmigiani. I think you respect Garrick a great deal, but next to the Vlan and the Bulgari, maybe it's not quite enough for you. It's a toss up for me. But I'm going to guess that you went with the Bulgari Octofinissimo ultra Platinum.
- [21:51]
Alon Ben Joseph
It's still 1:1.
- [21:54]
Rob Nudds
Dang.
- [21:55]
Alon Ben Joseph
The funny thing is I'm a huge octave fan. And that's why you picked that one.
- [22:01]
Rob Nudds
Yeah.
- [22:01]
Alon Ben Joseph
But strangely enough, the one I have, which is the plain dial titanium. There is no other octophenicium on that besides the Tadao Ando that I would replace my one with. Yeah, technically it's amazing. Well, this is just an iteration of the world record watch of the year before. They just made it in platinum and it has blue sub dials. But what puts me off is those drawings on the big barrel wheel. Yeah, the first one had the QR code which was. I have no idea why. And I'm quite sure Fabio Fabrizio did not design that. I think they it was forced upon him, hence it got now a sunburst vibe. I don't even know if this is a QR code as well, but it draws so much attention to it that you miss how spectacular this watch is. So that's why I've dismissed it now. You know how much I love Art deco and I have great respect for the Japanese people and culture and material. And I love Art deco. So the Hajime Saukwa really drew me in. But how can you not want a Garrick? Oh, so it actually got my vote for me.
- [23:25]
Rob Nudds
It's the best looking of the three open dials. I should have gone with my gut. Really? Yeah. Okay, great. Great choice.
- [23:32]
Alon Ben Joseph
And I'm going with my gut. You've chosen that as well?
- [23:36]
Rob Nudds
I'm afraid not. I might surprise you here, given some of the pieces on show, but I've gone for the Parmigiani Fleurier Toric. I love this model. I think this is pure class. Price points high. But, you know, it got a good bump because the King's a big fan of Parmigiani. And when they released this Tarek, I was like, yes, yes, this is what this line needed. A nice cleanup, a little refreshment, and my goodness, that color dial. Yeah, for days. I love this one. And to be fair, for me, this was actually an easy choice. My second place would have been Garrick. Third Vitellinen, fourth, probably Hajimi. Fifth, Bulgari, and sixth, Grand Seiko. I don't like these overly complicated optos myself at all. I like the plain ones, like you. So that was my order. Surprises all round. One apiece. Still, as we move into the men's complication, do you want to run down these six models for us?
- [24:33]
Alon Ben Joseph
Sure thing. So the men's complication, the first one, Altia, pure Sencho Tourbillon. Blue sapphire case. Huge ass. Central tourbillon. Would Rob choose this because, you know, in the beginning he was anti tourbillon, but he pivoted. My gosh, he's making my life difficult. Byrne B Y R N E Mecca. Cool couple. They're rock stars. Lovely people. Cool watches. The cubes on the 12, 3, 6 and 9 turn. So you have basically four dials in one. Chopard, Luc. Strike one. So the name says it all. Minute repeater with a central crown, so it goes through the crown. A monopusher if you want. D Bethune db. Kind of a grand complication. They have a sense of humor. You'll see their stereotypical case with the open lugs on the top side of things. I see a 3D moon. I see the date on the 9 o'clock position with a sub dial. Month and day. Frank Wheeler brings back the Long Island Evolution Master jumper. So, square case, rectangular, actually. Sorry, I stand corrected. But in a modern iteration, black case with green accents. It's a watch where basically without a dial, you'll see hours, minutes. And I have to guess that the bottom is either seconds or date. And then we have a very interesting new entrant to the gphg, which is Kazuo Maeda, if I pronounce that correctly, Universelle. So it's basically, or I would dare to call it, a tribute to the old, old, old Patek world. Timers, so very interesting. So while I have the mic, I'll keep on talking and trying to guess Rob's pick because this might be the most difficult one this year. As I said, he would never have picked a tourbillon, but since he fell head over heels with the HYT Central Tourbillon, it could be a contender. He did not choose the Fang Wheeler. He did not choose the Kazuo Maeda. Although you have great respect for the Bethune, I don't see you rocking that or even voting for it. Chopar, I guess the crown will put you off. So it's either the Bern or the Altia, and I really have no clue. So that means Shotgun Altia Purity Center Tourn Blue. Did I win?
- [27:29]
Rob Nudds
No, you didn't. Unfortunately, Altia was my fourth pick in this category. Byrne was my fifth, and my bottom was Frank Muller. Although it's probably my favorite version of a complication, which maybe should have meant it won for me, but it looks like it reminds me of a LEGO set, a spaceman LEGO set I had in the early 90s. I remember the guys had black helmets and green visors, and that green was exactly the shade. So that's a nice little callback for me personally, but I just don't like it. I had the Katsui Maida in third. I love the design, but I just feel it's. It's out of its league in this contest with these other pieces. Aesthetically, yeah, definitely a watch I would wear, but I'm not going to vote for it. The Chopard almost had me with its finishing, its beautiful dial color, and I'm a big fan of big crowns, so almost got it. But I just have to say for me, the debut is the. The best and the most attractive and the closest to what I expect from that brand done in an elegant way. So Debituna was my pick. I am similarly struggling with yours because this is a really tough category. I'm going to cop out a little and say that you also picked the De Betoon, because I just think you respect Denny so much and would see this in the same way as I do as like a really on brand execution of a great concept.
- [28:55]
Alon Ben Joseph
Almost dang. If it did not have Roman numerals, that would have been my number one. But I have gone for the Chopin because I love minute repeaters. This is the complications category, although the outer came very close.
- [29:11]
Rob Nudds
All right, well, we are still tied on 1:1. This has been an absolute shocking start with a lot of curveballs all over the place. Perhaps we Both should have done a little bit better given our history with one another. But I think there's so many tight categories. It's very understandable that we're all over the map. Okay, Iconic Collection next. Probably the most annoying title for a category, but we have some good entries here this year. Ones that really do live up to the billing. First we have the Breitling Navitimer B12 Chronograph 41 Cosmonaut that's in a rose gold case with a dark green dial and red accents. Then we have a Hublot Classic Fusion original yellow gold 29 millimeters. This is a callback to the early 80s when Carlo Crocco first launched Hublot with the precious metal and rubber combination that at the time was shocking to the world. IWC Schaffhausen Big Pilots Watch 43 Tourbillon Marcus Buhler so it's a standard looking pilot watch with a very interesting turbine inspired sub dial. Tourbillon Sub dial is Louis vuitton Tambour Piaget Polo 79 and the Urwerk UR102 Reloaded. So it's my turn to guess. First tough one. I think it could have been one of three, but I'm just going to keep this short and I'm going to guess that you went with the Urvic.
- [30:26]
Alon Ben Joseph
Ding, ding, ding, ding, ding.
- [30:28]
Rob Nudds
Praise be. Praise be.
- [30:31]
Alon Ben Joseph
So, so it was easy. Although I almost tipped over to the Piaget Polo 79 because I'm vintage 1979. I had a lot of family members that rocked this watch and gold Piaget. I have fond memories of that watch. And that begs the question that we've dealt on the pod actually many times, what makes something iconic? Right? What's in the name? What's the definition? So can a young brand like UC or Hublot be iconic even? And Louis Vuitton, do they make watches more than 25, 30 years to be iconic? So I love the Tambour, but with all due respect, I don't think Louis Vuitton should have been in this category. Is a big pilot, a pilot watch by the C. Iconic? Hell yes. Is a Navitimer iconic? Is a Cosmonaut iconic? Hell yes. But for argument's sake, yes, Hublot belongs in here by now. The Classic Fusion is such an iconic design. Hate it. Love it. It does deserve to be here in my humble opinion. And Urburg has rewritten watchmaking history, so yes, they deserve to be here for you. Dear Rob, I am actually in doubt between the Piaget and Hublot and I have a strange feeling because of your Wonderful mustache. You went for the Piaget because that suits your porn star vibe, dude.
- [32:06]
Rob Nudds
Oh, alon. Ding, ding, ding, ding, ding. Finally. Finally, you nailed this analysis. I was absolutely 5,149 between the Hublot and the Piaget. You know, I love Hublot. This execution, 29 millimeters in gold. It's about as good as it gets. For me, that is an iconic watch. And for me, an icon for a brand is the watch that best defines what that brand is. And this is everything that I love about Hublot in a compact and very straightforward package. Easy to understand, elegant, not something that you would associate Hublot with very often. But I have to admit, The Piaget Apollo 79 is not just an icon for the brand, but quite an icon for the industry. In the fifth and sixth places, I had the Breitling iwc. Both great watches, both icons for the brand. Not my kind of thing. Louis Vuitton came in fourth for me because I think the Tambour revamp of recent years has been extremely successful. The Urwerk, 100% an icon, 100% the brand I respect. But you know, I love gold these days as I'm getting older and my mustache fills out.
- [33:16]
Alon Ben Joseph
And just to add something that people know we're not BSing, I actually ordered the reloaded ur102. Didn't get it allocated. My buddy Roy Davidoff did. So whenever I see him, I have the pleasure of holding it and wearing it for a few minutes. So, yeah, I really love that one. So going on quickly jumping to the tourbillon category.
- [33:40]
Rob Nudds
O.
- [33:41]
Alon Ben Joseph
This is a difficult one for me to guess. So five of the G on the dial side, only one doesn't. The first pick is the Chopard Lucas 1860 flying to Rio. A watch that actually, I think a lot of kudos goes to where you call in the Revolution magazine team is that they made not one, but I think two collabs with this model and put it really on the map and gave it the attention that it deserves. Very elegant, very relaxed. There's a yellow gold case. The dial seems either made of gold or the same color. Second entry is the Daniel Roth. This is actually an iconic watch and could have been in iconic category because this is almost a one of one replica there. I use that word of the original. I mean, Daniel Roth has risen from its ashes like a phoenix. And I know the old Daniel wrote watches actually very well. I've been admiring the brand ever since I'm a kid. I've owned one very briefly. Not at the wheel. Well, you and I Had a lovely meeting with Louis Westfalen, who nowadays works for Public du Temps subsidiaries like Daniel Rothenta. And we had a nice sit down and studied these watches and it is magnificent, as it should be. Third one is the H Moser C Streamliner 2 wheel skeleton. I guess you can visualize what it is. It's a real, real skeleton. A lot of brands call a watch a skeleton, but often they just remove the dial. But this is really elimination of all the bridges and material that you can. It's Almost C throw. Fourth entrant is the Remico Atelier. Gives me old FPjun vibes or Breguet tradition vibes. So very basic in a good way. Sartori Billiard SB6 24 HM La Nuit the night. It seems to be a retrograde meteor dial, flying tourbillon at 6 o'clock. So it's a mix between contemporary and. Well, actually it's rather contemporary. Very interesting piece. Very interesting. What Sartori does. Last one, Voutilanda. So the only two we own that's not visual on the dial side. 20th anniversary. We'll see a retrograde vibe. Power reserve, big sub dial for the seconds and the circle for the hours is asymmetrical. So it's a very interesting play on the dial. Three brigade numerals 12, three and nine. So, my gosh, what did dear Rob vote for in the days that he hated to be. He would have gone for the V Linen. He did not pick that today. And you're not a fan of skeleton, so that eliminates the Moser. I'm in doubt between the SA and the Daniel Roth. Remy Coles could have been a contender, but I think you like the fonts and the. The playfulness of the Dao of the Bila. So you went for the Sato Bila.
- [37:29]
Rob Nudds
Wow. Incredible. I did, yeah. Congratulations. Really lovely reasoning nailed on with every comment. Congrats. I think you went for the Daniel Roth. I think you went for the. I think you went for the Daniel Roth.
- [37:47]
Alon Ben Joseph
I actually did not. It was a close call. I'm intrigued by the Remy calls, but as I said, it reminds me of Initial FP jeans and old Brez and it. It. And it seems he didn't bring it in the 21st century, so I didn't pick that one. I'm. I'm very intrigued by the V Linen. As you know, I don't like teardrop lugs, so he used a rather modern Germanic case here. I love the playfulness of the dial, but you know where I stand with the Rubios I do want to see them, and if they are flying to Romeo, I'm happier. So I went as well for the sat rib, and also because I don't gravitate so much to the brand. And honestly, I don't know enough about him and the brand, and I'm very eager to have him on the show, but I find it very interesting. Beautiful font. It's contemporary with a nod to art decoism. Ish. And the lugs are very sleek.
- [38:53]
Rob Nudds
Yeah. If anyone's not seen this, the thing I'd point out is the hands. Take a good close look at those hands. They are incredibly well finished and constructed. So lovely watch. That makes it 3:2 to you. So you've got a lead, which would be the first time you've won if you're able to maintain that. So good luck as we move on to the calendar and astronomy round. I don't mean it, obviously. Okay. First up we have the Anton Suranov Chronotope, which is a very interesting watch. It uses rubies in the aesthetics of the watch. On the dial side, on the tips of the hands, we have little tiny rubies that look very much like palette fork jewels, interestingly enough. Then we have the Frederic Constant Slimline Pet Perpetual Calendar, manufactured designed by Pete Speke. The. Then the H. Moser and C. Endeavor Chinese Calendar, the IWC Schaffhausen Portuguese Eternal Calendar, the Lahon Ferrier Classic Moon Silver, and the Parmigiani Flier Tonda PF Hijiri Perpetual Calendar. So this is a wild category to look at. I'm going to keep my guess succinct, and I'm going to say that because of your fondness for Kurt Klaus and respect for new complications, you chose the IWC Schaffhausen Portuguese Eternal Calendar.
- [40:07]
Alon Ben Joseph
Ding, ding, ding, ding, ding. Finally, what would have been my second pick?
- [40:12]
Rob Nudds
Probably the Freddie C. Yeah, probably.
- [40:17]
Alon Ben Joseph
Although I think it's amazing what Peter Speak did, because he's actually a magician in eliminating stuff, and it actually works very much. The Anton Suhanov intrigues me, but I don't find it visually beautiful. And if there is a calendar or astronomy watch, I want moon phases on there as big as possible or double ones. And I'm a huge fan of Lauren Foyer, but again, very elegantly done. But I don't like the Roman numerals. The EG is uber cool. Would have this been the first time they've entered the competition this as a novelty? I might have picked that because I love the fact when watchmakers play with different lunar calendars, but this is just a new dial, so that's why I didn't pick it. The Moser. It's. It's cool what they did because it's. It's basically retrograde. Ish vibes, but it really does not appeal to me. I.
- [41:21]
Rob Nudds
So hang on a second. Did you just list those in order? Because that's exactly the order I had them in for you. I had the lwc, then the Freddie C, then the Anton, then the Lan, then the Parmigiani, then the Moza for you.
- [41:31]
Alon Ben Joseph
Yeah. Well done.
- [41:33]
Rob Nudds
Good.
- [41:33]
Alon Ben Joseph
But. But I find the Moses ugly even.
- [41:36]
Rob Nudds
Yeah, so do I. I don't like it, unfortunately. I love the Parmigiani, but similar to you. Yeah. Interesting stuff, that dial, though. Incredible. So what did I go for? It's three all at the moment. You've got a chance to take back the lead.
- [41:50]
Alon Ben Joseph
Yeah. So you gave me some hints, although I knew you would never in your life pick the Moser. Freddy C, neither. You're in the Gold Vibes. You love Parmigiani. I. Well, actually, you are quirky, so you could have picked the Anton Zuano, but maybe because you are a watchmaker, I think you should pick the iwc. So I'll go with that logic.
- [42:21]
Rob Nudds
Exceptional as always. Ding, ding, ding, ding, ding. It's 4:3, 4:3 to the big man. Right. Moving on to the mechanical exception category. And this is a visual feast, to say the least. It's a funny thing because they're very different watches, but when I look at them simultaneously, it kind of feels like one explosion of futurism and darkness dystopian watchmaking coming at me. So what have we got? Bove 1822, recital 28 prowess 1. Now, Bove, as we know, has a habit of being somewhat extravagant when it comes to aesthetics. This is a pretty dark energy dial from Bove, and a cool one, to say the least. Then we have the Bulgari Optofinissimo Ultra Cosc. Very similar to the model we had in contention earlier, but a couple of changes, especially aesthetically with the dark gray subdials as opposed to blue sunburst. Then the Hermes Asso Duc Atelier, which looks to me to be a triple axis tourbillon. And the striking mechanism, I can't see exactly, but it's complicated as hell. Then we have the MB&F HM 11 architect, which of course is one of the most recognizable watches on the market today with its four protrusive elements at the cardinal markers. And then we have the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon. Exceptionally thin Tourbillon dark watch with gold accents from Piaget. Very handsome. And the Ulis Nadan Freak S Nomad, which we've discussed at length on the show previously. Alon.
- [43:49]
Alon Ben Joseph
I believe it's my turn and I knew immediately what you picked. I didn't even need to think split second. Freak ass Nomad.
- [43:58]
Rob Nudds
Correct. Dang, I am so transparent. I struggled with this for you, really only between two and I may even be wrong with both of these. But I thought you were somewhere between the Ulise and the mbnf and I know you love at least as well. But I am going to guess that you went with the MB and F. But I'm not confident at all.
- [44:19]
Alon Ben Joseph
Pity, because you did not guess correctly. I went as well for the Freak S Nomad because I love these freak watches. It was a tough call. I've looked at the Hermes. I love the case of the also, but not for me. But I love that they created it. It's super elegant. It's very interesting what's going on there with the minute Repeater and the 3D Tourbillon. And it's crazy and you won't expect that from us. I love MB&F as much as I love Uber. I'm very happy that they created this watch because it had to be created, apparently because that creativity. Creativity was sitting somewhere and need to come out. And there is no other brand that MBF that can do this and should do this. But it's maybe the first time ever that I would use the word ugly linked to MB and F. So aesthetically it. It does not appeal to me at all. And I don't dare to say they shouldn't have made it. What I did say about the MB and F. Oh, I'm sorry, the Moser in the category before, they simply should not have made that watch. I'm not going to say that about the HM11 architecture. It's technically bizarre. It's bonkers. You can twist it around. It has four dials basically, and a top side view. But strangely enough, I prefer the Mad one over this one. And you both have a visual effect on the. On the top dial side. And that's not a compliment, but it.
- [45:53]
Rob Nudds
Is to the Mad one, really. And the Mad one S is great. I had it on my wrist again the other day at the Watch Pro salon and I really, really, really respect that watch. Okay, so you're five three ahead. Now you've got some daylight between us. This is looking like it might be a first win for you. So get the confetti ready. Chronograph coming up. Okay. You know, chronographs are my favorite complication. I'm wearing a chronograph right now, and this, I have to say, was a bit of a disappointing category for me. Let's run through the nominated timepieces. We have the Angelus instrument divides very traditional looking doctor style chronograph. To be fair, we have a Louis Vuitton with re LVR01 chronograph as Sonori. Very memorable watch with striking lugs. They don't literally make sounds. They're just visually striking. Messina Lab chronograph Monopresoir Sylvan Pino and Messina Lab. We have the Parmigiani Flurier Toric split seconds chronograph, the tag Hoya Monaco split seconds chronograph, and the Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Zo. It's my turn to pick.
- [46:59]
Alon Ben Joseph
Yes.
- [47:00]
Rob Nudds
Tough one. I was wildly uninspired by pretty much everything in this category. It came down to a choice between two for me. I feel like it will come down for a choice between two for you as well. Although actually a different two from the two I was struggling with. To keep things concise, I will say you went for the Massena Lab chronograph Monopasois, Silvan Pinot and Massena Lab.
- [47:21]
Alon Ben Joseph
Almost.
- [47:22]
Rob Nudds
Ah, man, I am getting battered today. It can't be almost. There's nothing almost like it out there.
- [47:28]
Alon Ben Joseph
Almost. You know what?
- [47:30]
Rob Nudds
Wow.
- [47:30]
Alon Ben Joseph
Because you're giving me daylight. Yeah, I'm gonna give you a bone. A bonus pick. What was. What is my second, and if you guess that one, you'll get a point.
- [47:40]
Rob Nudds
Look, I don't need your pity. And more to the point. Yeah, I heard it.
- [47:47]
Alon Ben Joseph
Grab it with your hands. I'm. I'm reaching out a hand to you. Grab my hand.
- [47:51]
Rob Nudds
Look, I'll have another guess, but I'm not taking a point, even though I get it right. Honestly, I'm. Look, let me work through the reasoning. The tag is ugly, and it's not what a Monaco should be. The Louis Vuitton and RPI collab. I think it's a disaster. Aesthetically. I absolutely abhor the case. You're not a huge Parani fan, and I don't think that the chronograph makes the most of the a toric case for you at least, and means it would be that between the Angulus and the zenith. And I know you love the zenith, but you had a great deal of respect for the Anglis when you had it in your hand. Ah, I'd say the Angulus.
- [48:32]
Alon Ben Joseph
You still don't get a point.
- [48:33]
Rob Nudds
Okay, good.
- [48:34]
Alon Ben Joseph
I did. I did try to order the anglers for my private collection, but I did not manage to obtain the limited edition. I love that watch. I love Monopol. But there's one thing that I love more about chronographs and that's rap Split second watches. Double chronographs. You chose very happy. No, which one did I choose?
- [48:54]
Rob Nudds
The tag?
- [48:56]
Alon Ben Joseph
No, Parmigiani. Dude, I do love Parmigiani. I love Parmigiani Flier. And another meme and signal word by Alona. The trts. Utterly. Yeah, I love Michel Parmigiani. I used to retail the brands for a long period.
- [49:13]
Rob Nudds
Yeah, Yeah.
- [49:14]
Alon Ben Joseph
I think it's maybe the most elegant brand out there. And Hermes is very elegant. But Parmigiani takes the crown. Guido Terrini is fantastic. I think that's a match made in heaven. I love gold watches. I'm not too keen on the turn bezel, but the simplicity of the dial forgives the details on the bezel. Now I went for that one. What a choice. Yeah. There are many monopushers and many rattrapants in this category. The TAG Heuer is fugly. I have no idea how that passed a study committees at Tag Heuer Manufacture, but I'm happy they made it. Does Tagore. Should Tagore make a rattle pont? Hell yes. They're all about racing, aren't they? So I'm very happy that they made the caliber, but the execution punish points. Now I'm with you. I'm with you 100%. Rexepi is amazing. He's. He's a genius. Love what he does, caliber wise, but the designs are not there for me. I'm happy that Vitton managed to twist his arm to get a collab out of it. I have no idea how they did that. But the backside is more beautiful than the image we're seeing on the main page. Which is the smoky sapphire dial with gold accents. The other side is more beautiful to me. But you're right, if the Palm Jenny wasn't there, I would have gone for the anglers. It's splendid. And regarding Zenith, I love Zenith. I love the Chronomaster. I own many Zs, but the Triple Callan doesn't do it for me. I don't know why. All right.
- [50:59]
Rob Nudds
Okay. Well, I think that was a great pick on your part. But what did I choose?
- [51:02]
Alon Ben Joseph
Same as me. Bamijani Floyer torque, split seconds, chronograph I actually didn't.
- [51:07]
Rob Nudds
Although if I could own one of these watches in isolation, I would choose that one. But I voted for a watch that was relatively more impressive to me in its price point, but also because of its context, where it sits in the market, what it's competing with. So for me, I voted for the Taric earlier the time only for me, that's the topic I would choose. And even though chronographs are my favorite complication, that doesn't mean that I would take every time only dial and slap a chronograph on there if I could. And I feel that Taric I described the previous one I think is serene, or maybe I said that about the Amazon Geneva, but that it has that, that sage green blaster dial was just, it was serene, it was, it was classy, it was elegant, it could be worn in the evening. It's subtle enough and to be honest, it has enough presence to be worn casually as well. This one for me is an exceptional watch and one I'd love to own, but it isn't an improvement on the time only. Whereas the model I chose, the Zenith, is I think, the best thing that you can get from the Chronomaster line. The triple calendar for me really works. I normally bulk the use of a traditional gold on blue date in a modern sports watch, but here, because of that charcoal almost anthracite dial, I feel that it's extremely elegant and extremely cohesive and that's the one I picked.
- [52:33]
Alon Ben Joseph
Yeah.
- [52:33]
Rob Nudds
So the Zenith was my choice.
- [52:36]
Alon Ben Joseph
Interesting. Your, your reasoning is spot on. It's. It's such great value for money and all of you listening, if you don't own an Amiga Speedmaster with an 1861 or a 3861 caliber, do yourself a favor and get one. And if you've never owned an El Primero caliber, do yourself a favor either jump on the old bandwagon of the 400 El Primero calibers, their sheer joy. But the newest 3600 platform is spectacular and a lot of people are complaining that they're expensive. But still, if you benchmark it to current offering, it's amazing value for money. So I agree. Well done, Rob. Going quickly to the sports section because you call this a sports watch, but now GPHG shows six different models or the members of the academy. And now the jury is going to give their verdict next week. So first up is the IWC Schaffhausen Pilot Watch Performance Chronograph 41 Mercedes AMG Petronas Formula One Trademark.
- [53:45]
Rob Nudds
Team Trademark.
- [53:47]
Alon Ben Joseph
Just for that title. Just for that title.
- [53:50]
Rob Nudds
Disqualified.
- [53:51]
Alon Ben Joseph
Disqualified immediately. And I'm still on the fence. If they did a good thing by marrying pilots watches that are meant for actual pilots up in the air to F1 pilots. So we can debate about that later. Second entry is the Ming 37.09, the blue fin Parmigiani Fleurier. Again, it's amazing how many entries they have this year. Yeah. Sport Chronograph. As you see, I'm skipping the description what they look like. Although for the next one I urge you to look Singer Reimagined dive track. This for me could have gone straight to the iconic category and they don't need to wait 25 to 30 years for me. But okay. Fifth one, Tudor Pelagos FXD Chronograph Cycling Edition.
- [54:53]
Rob Nudds
Yeah.
- [54:53]
Alon Ben Joseph
What's up with these brands? Whenever they make a full black out watch, they make super long titles.
- [54:58]
Rob Nudds
I have no idea. Last one.
- [55:02]
Alon Ben Joseph
Last one. Zenith again. Defy Extreme Diver. Total new watch. Interesting that it's not in the dive category, but sports category. But okay. It seems this category is a bit all over the place this year. I actually don't need to think you chose the single reimagine drive track and if it wasn't there, you've would have chosen the Ming. Do I get two points?
- [55:27]
Rob Nudds
You don't, no. But my answer for you was exactly the same. It was between the Ming and the singer for you. And I think you went with the singer and Ming was second, a close second.
- [55:40]
Alon Ben Joseph
You get two points from me.
- [55:42]
Rob Nudds
Don't stop having pity on me. It's only 54 now. I've closed the gap. But no, to be quite honest, the model I chose is neither of those pieces. Although I do think they're the obvious ones. I'll give you a clue. Okay. Did you know that I'm synesthetic?
- [55:55]
Alon Ben Joseph
No.
- [55:56]
Rob Nudds
So I mean it's like a feeling color. Right. So like I interpret the world like everything has a color to me, like words or feelings or memories. Like they're all colored. Yeah. So I'm very sensitive to certain color combinations in a good way and also in a bad way. Like I react violently to clashes, but I enjoy subtle harmony between colors. And there is one watch in this collection which is unlike any other I've seen on the market. So which one is it?
- [56:19]
Alon Ben Joseph
Zenith?
- [56:21]
Rob Nudds
No, that one. I mean that's low hanging Fruit Fani Paran.
- [56:24]
Alon Ben Joseph
So you went subtle.
- [56:25]
Rob Nudds
I went subtle.
- [56:25]
Alon Ben Joseph
Subtle, yeah. Yeah. I should have known him because you talked about the Sage. Yeah. So again, what you said, I said it's so elegant, the brand and everything they do. And you're right. It's so elegant. I don't even know what the. The color is to describe it. Yeah, the sub dials and the flange, I don't even know what color it is.
- [56:46]
Rob Nudds
I'd say it's like a steel gray blue or something along those lines, but with the texture of the white, which is really important because if it were a flat white dial, it would be a bit stark and it would be very cold and a bit too weak. But that texture adds warmth to the dial, which pulls in this steel blue gray. And not only does the texture add warmth to the dial, the texture on the strap, which is a paler version of the steel blue gray, pulls in the dial. So this is something I always talk about. Right. Bringing the outside in. So to make the watch a cohesive hole, this is a really successful execution. The date window between 4 and 5. Because I normally hate contrast states. I like color match dates. So you would think, okay, the sensible thing there would be a white wheel with a black or a steel blue number. But for some reason, because they've aligned it horizontally so it just sits there as like a very functional aperture through which the date can be read. And paired it very subtly with a little tiny black hour markers. There is a cohesiveness there that is legible and also satisfying. So that's my pick, and I think it's a really, really nice under the radar piece. Who do I think is going to win this category? It probably should be Singer and. But I feel like Ming's got a really good shot of winning this category. I really, really do. But let's see. It's an interesting one, and I'm very.
- [58:05]
Alon Ben Joseph
Curious to hear what you would have picked if the Palm Jani wasn't there with such an elegant dial.
- [58:09]
Rob Nudds
Yeah, I mean, the IWC would be bottom for me, then the Tudor, then the Zenith. And I'm not a huge fan of that Zenith in person. It's much better than it looks on pitchers. But what would I have picked? I was really leaning towards the Ming because I think it's a cool way to do a dive Watch. But come on, you. You can't really overlook the majesty of the singer and the genius of Marco. So, yeah, it would have been the Singer number two and the Ming number three for me.
- [58:37]
Alon Ben Joseph
I agree. I agree you're going to describe the jewelry category, but I'm gunning. I do have a bit of pity on you. Don't fall into the rainbow pitfall this time. I'm giving you a hint here.
- [58:50]
Rob Nudds
I still don't know if I'm going to have a chance of getting this one right, but. Okay. The rainbow one that Alan is talking about is the Gucci G Timeless Planetarium which uses enormous colored stones for the hour markers. It's a. It's a site for, well, eyes, I guess. Not sore eyes. It might finish them off. Okay. We also have the Bulgari fence high jewelry secret watch, which is one of the most remarkable objects I've ever seen in my life. The Chopard Laguna High jewelry secret watch. Again, like this is real fine. Fine jewelry happens to also tell the time. The Damiani Margarita Desert Garden secret watch. Now this is a stunner. Colorway is perfect. Lots of yellow, I assume diamonds or citrines or something like that. And then emeralds and oh God's two times. It's that special Dior Montreux Grand Soir de Abil. The hardest watch to pronounce in this year's contest and I've definitely butchered it. This is. What is it? A bee, A bejeweled bee or a sea of diamonds? A bed of diamonds is quite striking. It does tell the time, but only just via two little hands positioned at 12 o'clock. And then the last one is the Piaget or a high jewelry watch which is a all diamond encrusted watch with a dial comprising mostly not baguette cut. There's many cuts in there, but mostly dark rubies I believe. So whose guess is it? It's. Don't say it's mine. Is it mine? It's mine. Damn it. Oh, Jamie. Marcus. Yeah, this is a tough one for me. I'm gonna discount. Well, you gave me the clue to discount the Gucci, but it wouldn't have come close anyway.
- [60:34]
Alon Ben Joseph
Would you have discounted it?
- [60:36]
Rob Nudds
Yeah, 100%. I think it's absolutely a bar.
- [60:37]
Alon Ben Joseph
Okay.
- [60:38]
Rob Nudds
I'm proud of you.
- [60:39]
Alon Ben Joseph
I'm proud of you.
- [60:40]
Rob Nudds
The. I'm getting rid of the Dior. That's gross. I think the show powder is really impressive, but I'm gonna drop that out of your category. I think the Piaget is a bit too Jacob and company for you. I'm looking between the Damiani and the Bulgari. These are extremely fine pieces of work. The Bulgari is actually like a sort of peacock design, I believe. Some kind of bird at least looking back towards the dial. Damiani is just incredible. What a cough. So my feeling is, I don't know if these are your top two. But my feeling is you're slightly biased towards Bulgary because it's Bulgari and that is an exceptional and artful piece. But there's this though guy, I think the Damiani is something you would have a lot of respect for. So I'm going to go for the Damiani.
- [61:25]
Alon Ben Joseph
No, you over thought it. Don't overthink things. So this is very interesting. Four of the six are actually jewelers originally that start making watches. And then we have two fashion houses that also made watches and then later jewelry. So Dior and Gucci really don't get it. There's nothing elegant about it and no hardcore material. Now Piaget did something from the 70s again and the crown has been taken by Jacob & Co. And does it better. So you were right, they should stick to manufacture things and ultra planos and whatever. Now I think the Damian is cool, but to cliche with their daisies elevated to art. And it was a close call. But Fabrizio has my heart. Bulgari used to have my heart. They're bolder and remember molto non tropo.
- [62:34]
Rob Nudds
A lot, but not too much.
- [62:36]
Alon Ben Joseph
Not too much. And that's it. So Chopar gets a close second, but it's. It's too much with these shells and tortoises. Although. And I love secret watches. So you did guess, right? Because three of the success secret watches. Love that. And without hearing your intro, I would have picked Bvlgari for you as well. But because of your intro and you guessing Damiani for me, I think you also went for the Damiani.
- [63:04]
Rob Nudds
I didn't. I went for the Piaget.
- [63:06]
Alon Ben Joseph
Oh.
- [63:08]
Rob Nudds
Because it appeals to my sort of slightly, you know, inner porn star.
- [63:13]
Alon Ben Joseph
Yeah, I know. Okay.
- [63:16]
Rob Nudds
I'd wear it though. I would wear it. Yeah. Love it.
- [63:19]
Alon Ben Joseph
You know what? You know what? It will look amazing on you. On that hairy wrist and those fluffy shirts you wear.
- [63:26]
Rob Nudds
Fluffy shirt? Fluffy shirts. Yeah, fluffy shirts.
- [63:30]
Alon Ben Joseph
And. And you have a velvet tuxedo, don't you?
- [63:33]
Rob Nudds
Oh, yeah. Oh my God, that watch. Is it burgundy? It is burgundy, yeah.
- [63:38]
Alon Ben Joseph
Oh, yeah. You know what brands that are listening, please, please invite Rob to a red carpet event. And if it's by coincidence is a Piaget event, please loan him this watch.
- [63:48]
Rob Nudds
Do you know how much I get it?
- [63:50]
Alon Ben Joseph
I don't care. You know how many clicks you're going to get if Rob is going to rock this watch?
- [63:56]
Rob Nudds
Yeah, true. It's 1.67. 1.67 million Swiss francs, by the way. So I would gladly take A loan of this piece, but yeah. All right.
- [64:05]
Alon Ben Joseph
Bargain, bargain.
- [64:07]
Rob Nudds
Yeah. Moving on. It's still 540. You. We're on to. We've got three categories left and not much time, so let's whiz through this one quickly because it's the least interesting of the three. The artistic crafts, Anderson Genre Jumping Hours, Black Jade, Stone Shopard, Luc Qu Spirit, 25 years of the Dragon, Hermes, Arus, Stella Stellarum, Louis Vuitton Escape, Cabinet of Wonders, Snakes, Jungle Piaget, Glowing Weave watch. And the Van Cleef and Arpel Lady Arpel J.
- [64:35]
Alon Ben Joseph
So what did you vote do? I think since I am going to stick very closely to the category Artistic Craft, I hope you did not vote just visually or because of your color. A Yoga, Spirit, Animal vibes. I hope he just looked at artistic craft. I must say, I'm not really hardcore impressed with all the artistic crafts shown here.
- [65:03]
Rob Nudds
Yeah.
- [65:04]
Alon Ben Joseph
I find maybe that Louis Vuitton did the most together with Van Cleef is not bad. I don't know why, but I have a feeling you went for the Chopin.
- [65:15]
Rob Nudds
I didn't, but it was probably my second. I went for Anderson Genev again because, you know, I love that watch.
- [65:22]
Alon Ben Joseph
Yeah.
- [65:22]
Rob Nudds
Yeah. I just. Yeah, I mean, I. I'm voting for what I'd wear sometimes.
- [65:27]
Alon Ben Joseph
Yeah, okay.
- [65:28]
Rob Nudds
Yeah.
- [65:29]
Alon Ben Joseph
Okay, Fair enough. I. Well, I think these six, I would have bought that. I love Anderson, you know, but is it really artistic? Hasn't this watch been in a category already? I have a deja vu. Yeah, I have a deja vu vibe. Is this the entry for the only watch? I believe it is the cat. Of course. Why not?
- [65:48]
Rob Nudds
Why not?
- [65:49]
Alon Ben Joseph
So I think we voted for this watch already. Okay, what did I pick, Rob?
- [65:52]
Rob Nudds
I think you picked the Van Cleef.
- [65:54]
Alon Ben Joseph
Yeah, I did.
- [65:55]
Rob Nudds
Oh.
- [65:58]
Alon Ben Joseph
Yeah, I did. Although. Although I'm not in love and I think they should have dumped the diamonds because the dial is beautiful and I love the fact that the central axis of the hours a minute sits in a bursting sun or whatever it is.
- [66:11]
Rob Nudds
Yeah.
- [66:12]
Alon Ben Joseph
Could. It could look like a microscopic COVID 19 bacteria. But okay, going to the 14th category.
- [66:20]
Rob Nudds
Petit Aguil is 55 now, by the way, it's back on level terms.
- [66:25]
Alon Ben Joseph
You're very adamant to say that I skipped over that very quickly. Okay. Petite Aguile. That category is the little main prize issue. Right. Overall category, thing that doesn't have too hefty of a price tag. First one, Amida. Amida is revived. It's back by an amazing designer. He does a great job for others and Mathieu Alegre. Great guy, great designer, very elegant, very modest. And he's decided to step into the manufacturing side of things, and I'm happy he did because this is a casket watch. They call it a Takeoff edition. Second one, Christian van de Cl with the Ariadne. So Duchies are competing. Interesting. The third one is Federicon in a collab with second. That took the watch industry actually by storm. So it was very cool to see Ferland Murray with the perpetual one. They teamed up here originally with Tixier Renault. So very, very interesting technically. K with the three Salmon. Also very visually interesting. It is retrograde. How do you call this? This discaliber, Rob. I forgot the name. Where it jumps in three layers of retrograde.
- [67:57]
Rob Nudds
It doesn't jump. The hour hand has three hands on it, and they're all different lengths. So as, like, one passes out, the other one passes in.
- [68:05]
Alon Ben Joseph
Right.
- [68:05]
Rob Nudds
That's why they've got the bottom half.
- [68:07]
Alon Ben Joseph
They covered the.
- [68:08]
Rob Nudds
It's kind of similar to, like, the Urwerk Wandering Hours concept in terms of how the time is told, but on levels instead of wheels. Much simpler. You can do that with just a basic movement for dial layers, Right?
- [68:21]
Alon Ben Joseph
Yeah. And then the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT. So novelty for this year. Black and burgundy GMT Bezel Guild out version. So actually a tough call for me to guess for you.
- [68:42]
Rob Nudds
I think it's me to go first, isn't it, on this one?
- [68:45]
Alon Ben Joseph
Is it?
- [68:45]
Rob Nudds
I think so.
- [68:46]
Alon Ben Joseph
Please go.
- [68:47]
Rob Nudds
So, yeah, it is tough. This is an extremely competitive category. If you look at the models that were entered into this category, you will see basically four or five lineups of six pieces that could all have been just as worthy as being in the final runoff as these six. I'm amazed at some of the pieces that didn't make it, and a little shock of some of the ones that did. Obviously, we would expect to see the Tudor here because Tudor is always there. Amida is striking. The others, though, good. Some very good. But the competition was so stiff. It's just. It's hard to believe sometimes. What doesn't make it into the final six? Me. For me, this is very tough to choose. Yours. I'm not at all confident. I think it's maybe between the Christian van der Klau and the Frederick Constant as second. I'm actually gonna go with that, the Freddie C, because I think that, you know how important that was to the brand and to Ramaric, and it was very popular. So that. Yeah, that's my choice.
- [69:46]
Alon Ben Joseph
Ding, ding, ding, ding, ding.
- [69:47]
Rob Nudds
Oh, yes. Oh, that's the best guess of the day for me. Finally.
- [69:51]
Alon Ben Joseph
Well done. I actually found it very difficult to pick for you. I eliminated the Tudor.
- [69:59]
Rob Nudds
Yeah. Because I hate it.
- [70:01]
Alon Ben Joseph
Yeah. And technically I think you admire what Furla Mary did. But you wouldn't have not bought this watch because simply you don't like the skeletonized or the lack of a subdial. Basically, it could have been in a me. The. I think you would prefer the Girard Perego casket. Van Der Cloud doesn't tickle your. Well, you know what? So kidoke. Freddie Constant, I know how much you love Romaric as well. I'm not sure you would have bought this Freddie console. Maybe you would, but this is my pick for you.
- [70:37]
Rob Nudds
I'm afraid not. And this, this would have been a difficult one for anyone to get because you're right. Your analysis of the fellow married was correct. I don't normally like open sub dials, but it was what I picked in this category. In the second place for me was Christian van der Klein, which is surprising maybe because, yeah, it doesn't tick many of my boxes, but I've had your Ariadne on my wrist and I've really grown to appreciate and love it and see it as like a bit of a throwback to the earlier stages of my career. And it's a really good value watch for a brand of such report, in my opinion. So I would say that's my number two. Amida is probably number three. Freddie C, number four could okay five and Tudor six. But the Furl and Mary, it's just the best looking watch in my opinion. And it's also impressive what they've done. I don't care that it's a Ferland Mary per se, although the one Furl and Marie I own is exceptionally well made. There's Mecca quartz chronograph, like the very first. I've got one of the prototypes actually, from the early days. Great watches. This is a nice one. So that is my pick. And that means that we enter the final category with me leading 6:5 in a stunning comeback. And this category, in contrast to the previous category, is about as heavy hitting as I've ever seen a lineup of six. There is one model from this six that I don't think should be here, but the other five, any single one of them would be a worthy winner. So what do we have? We have the bo blue boble second francaise from our good friend Nicholas Dukador. Fam. And this is interesting because the second circle, that's the one towards the outside. Of the dial is. Is actually on a disc, on a transparent disc. So it's floating above the dial. If you haven't seen this in real life, it's a really striking aesthetic. I love these watches. They have been soaring since Nicholas launched the brand about four, five years ago now. It's really hit the ground running and these are up and comers like few others. Next up we have a Christopher Ward London C1 moon phase with a Aventurine style dial and an enormous moon. Then we have the Ferland Marie Disco Verde which is one of the most, I would say talked about new releases in recent times. It's a floating circular watch. The Disco Volante I think is the collection name. Comes with a brown dial and a blue dial as well. And it has been wowing people who have had it on the Wrist. The Colloquium Project 1 of course we know this brand very well. We had the guys on the show, we love them all and we think this is one of the most stunning pieces of recent years. The Otsuka Low Tech number six. This has really been a popular watch amongst the hardcore collectors community in recent years. Check out this brand if you don't know it. The way they indicate time is incredible with little dial side modifications. And then the space 1 tellurium, one of the most discussed watches on this show as well as one of the most discussed brands headed up by Teo Ofre and our good friend sexy boy Guillaume Led Day Alon I think does it fall to you to guess my piece And I do not envy you here, Joe.
- [73:40]
Alon Ben Joseph
This is crazy. I've never had in my life that all six watches I want to buy. I already own two of the six so that would make it very easy for you. And it's a. It's a matter of time that I buy an Otsuka Lotic Bo Blow shout out to Frederick Tempier are one of the first TRTS community members. He helped out the boys there and put it on my radar. I was blown away. Love what they do. I've never had a watch without lugs until our ikipod collab. It might be that the Disco Feather becomes my second watch ever. That is a full circle without lugs. Not using my cup of tea. You said initially one shouldn't be here. Are you referring to the C1 moon phase by Christopher Ward?
- [74:35]
Rob Nudds
I am, yeah. It's well out of its leak here.
- [74:39]
Alon Ben Joseph
Well, funnily enough, it might be the most boring Christopher Ward if you look at the case and not innovative because Christopher Ward is really Pushing them, doing great stuff the last five years. And I have a feeling that Adrian Borchman had something to do with it. What you didn't mention is that it seems there's just one moon floating because the disc of the moon phase is exactly the same Aventurine as the Dao and there's nothing else on there besides Swiss made. So I love the fact that they took off their logo. No hour markers, no minute markers, no nothing. And therefore I do think they deserve it. And strangely enough, this could be my third Christopher Ward because the first one I have on my desk, second one I'm waiting for, which is the Bel Canto, and this might be the third one because I love big moon phases and if you can't afford an Arnold sun, they don't leave you a choice. So I already own the Space one and the Colloquium. For me to guess what you have picked is a close call between the Bo Blue and the Colloquium and I think you voted for the Bow blow at this competition for this category. Please give me a point.
- [76:03]
Rob Nudds
I can't give you a point. I'm so sorry. I'm. I'm. Look, I do have a massive man crush on Nicholas. Yeah, that's fair. He knows that well enough. We were out together in New York the other day and getting quite married.
- [76:16]
Alon Ben Joseph
Both with your mustaches.
- [76:17]
Rob Nudds
Both of our mustaches. They did not touch, regrettably, but they did stand side by side at a overpriced bar and, yeah, topping very wide grins, shall we say, and nestled just beneath some blurry eyes. It was a wonderful evening. Always great to see him and always great to see his watches. But no, this category was an absolute humdinger. It was a tour de force. These are watches that retail for less than €3,000. Can you believe it? Like, okay, the Christopher Ward for me is a great watch. It's just happens to be standing alongside five of the most incredible value propositions I think watchmakers ever see. Okay, so the Christopher Ward would come in six for me. The choice between fourth and fifth is a really painful one for me to admit because it is between Bubbler and Ferland. Mary and I put Ferl and Marion fifth, which is shocking because if this watch wins, it is a deserved winner. Absolutely. And Beau Blur, I am biased because I love the brands, I love the people behind it. But the top three, look at that colloquium. The Atsuka, Low Tech and the Space One. I mean, they are all more. Well, the Otsuka and the Space One are More complicated. And the Colloquium is just so wild in the way that it's made with the cast case and then this multi level luminous dial. It's an incredible entry into the market. And one that I need on my wrist. I had one on my wrist at Windup, actually, and I was just very impressed by the way that it wears. Third place for me was the Otsuka. Low tech. I think it's gorgeous. But the Colloquium topped it because of the way that it's made. But number one for me, thanks to wearability and to be quite frank, complication at this price point, originality and ambition was the Space One Tellurium. I, you know, I had to go with my head a little bit here over my heart, which might have led me to the Bubbler, the Colloquium or the Otsuka, but I want a Space One. I want us to do a Space One Tellurium collab with the brand. And normally when I see a watch like this, I'm like, okay, it's cool, it's great, it's ambitious, but it's going to wear like shit and it wears incredibly. It's so comfortable on the wrist. And I don't think you're going to get anywhere near as many questions about any of these other pieces, maybe the Colloquium as you are about the Tellurium when it's on your wrist. It's just an incredible piece of work probably, if I'm being frank. I think it's the best thing Guillaume's ever released and that say something, but it's just, it's peerless at that price point. And so to my choice for you. Yes, you own two of them, which may be a bit of a giveaway, but choosing between those two would hard enough. Anyway, I do think you've got a lot of time for the Otsukulotek, but I think you went with the Colloquium.
- [79:13]
Alon Ben Joseph
Shit, I hoped you would vote Space One. No, but I did vote for the Colloquium and, and, and you did an amazing analysis because I ordered both immediately on the spot. And seeing the prototypes, I fell head over heels for both. But ratio is, I love astronomical watches, moon phases and I mean quant, just tail of. Yes, this is the best thing that Guillaume Ledet did. And it might be that Wonder Boy and Sexy Boy gets criticism by bringing those old records, those musical hits back and not innovating. I think he's shown it with the first chapter of Space 1 and with the Tellurium, he Hit a home run. Because this is rewriting watchmaking history as well. And I usually call them unofficially the MB&F and UX for 3K. So do yourself a favor. I'm not saying go run and buy one, but at least study one and wear one because it's amazing. But that's also racial. The emotion is. I Amma had a prototype of the Colloquium, I believe, two years ago on his wrist. And again, I often fall off my chair.
- [80:38]
Rob Nudds
Yeah, you need to get a better chair. To be honest, mate, you're constantly on the floor.
- [80:41]
Alon Ben Joseph
No, it's always in. It's always in bar, strangely enough, and it's always in Switzerland. And it's strangely. I see a pattern here when you're around and too much of alcohol usage. Do you think there's a correlation there, Rob?
- [80:54]
Rob Nudds
I just think that the stools are a bit ropey in the Grand Duke. That's all it is. Nothing to do with the beer. It's great.
- [81:00]
Alon Ben Joseph
I always say I love to connect people. And one plus one is not two. It's synergy. And that's what you see with colloquium and space one, space one. You see two genius together. Colloquium are three geniuses together. And yeah, I don't know, I think all of them challenge. But because Colloquium is totally new and it's a new brand and it's their first chapter, they deserve it.
- [81:34]
Rob Nudds
So that's it. Scores. 7 5. Sorry, mate. Still undefeated. Keep coming.
- [81:39]
Alon Ben Joseph
Congrats. Congrats. Well deserved, well deserved. Good comeback.
- [81:43]
Rob Nudds
Yeah, it's fortunate. I think some. Some weird curveballs there and some almost impossible ones to. To choose between. Or shall we just very quickly say the. Our biggest snub. We don't have much time, so we can't go into it too much, but like, which watch we think should have been in the contest. And then we'll also pick our favorite watch of everything. Just really quick couple of minutes.
- [82:07]
Alon Ben Joseph
Yeah, sure.
- [82:07]
Rob Nudds
And then we'll go for it. So.
- [82:10]
Alon Ben Joseph
So first snub. Super subjective. Sherpa TRTS edition. Sorry, I have to say it. And it should have been in there. And one of the biggest snubs for gphg. There's no dive watch category.
- [82:24]
Rob Nudds
Oh, yeah.
- [82:25]
Alon Ben Joseph
That made it difficult because the Ming and the Zenith and the Singer, three dive watches took important positions in the sports category. So a double snub. In my humble opinion. The overall. I need more time, so you give me your snub. While I'll think going to win the overall Although I found my answer, by the way.
- [82:45]
Rob Nudds
So, okay, super biased, obviously. Arcanor, devastating. I do think that maybe this is one year too early for the brand, but you look at some of the pieces that made it in there and you think, okay, they're really cool watches. But, you know, could there be a little bit of diversity in these selections occasionally? I think so. I think there's space for that. But we'll see what the next year brings, basically. But I'm not too salty about it. I think it was extremely competitive number of nominations in the category in which we were entered. So we'll see next year if we can finally get up to that level.
- [83:20]
Alon Ben Joseph
Final notes on my side, who do I think needs to win the overall? It's somebody or a brand or watchmaker or designer that does something totally new in that year and a new brand in this award ceremony is Berneron. He did something new, total new design, had made a total new caliber retaught, putting the hour hand above the minute hand. It's a shape watch, a shape movement. He pushed the envelope so far and obviously I'm biased and I think he deserves this. So that's my pick. Very curious to hear yours, Rob.
- [84:08]
Rob Nudds
Yeah, mine too. Absolutely Same logic. I think it's, to be quite honest, easily the one that deserves to win it. But we shall see. We've had curveballs thrown at us in the past, so we're going to do our analysis show the following week after the awards are all said and done. So please do tune in for that. If you'd like to get in touch with us, you can do so via the usual channels, either via our official Instagram page, which is the realtime show, or via our private channels. For me at A L O N B E N J O S E P H for Alon and at Dava for David. You can contact us via email either Rob Alon or David Therealtime show or via the contact form on the website www.therealtime show. We'll be back soon to analyze the results of this incredible event. Until then, stay safe and keep on ticking.
- [84:57]
Alon Ben Joseph
SA.