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- [00:00]
A
Foreign Watch fans and welcome to another edition of the Real Time show with me, your friendly neighborhood watchmaker, Rob Nudds, and our friendly neighborhood jeweler, Alon Ben Joseph. Today I'm calling in from Copenhagen, my second home by this point. And Alon is calling in from his new home, for now at least, London. Would you believe the time has come round again. This, this is the fourth time we've done this. Now you always say to me if you do something three times, it becomes a tradition. So now this is more than just a tradition. This is a way of life. It is time once again, ladies and gentlemen, for our annual GPHG Awards competition where we go head to head trying to guess each other's picks for the many categories of wonderful timepieces we've seen nominated for this year's Oscars of watchmaking. Alon, I guess I needn't ask if you're excited, but are you ready?
- [00:57]
B
I am not only ready, more than ready. I'm very excited. I've been looking forward to this actually for months. And we owed our dear listeners to have GPHG or somebody of the organization on the show and we've been terrible. Not only have we invited them, not only have they accepted, and not only have they been reminding us to bring them back on the show, we even had an opportunity during Geneva watch days, but we were simply too full. So mea culpa, our apologies. It will come one day. But let's go and dive in because this is going to be a two part episode where apparently Rob thinks I've lost the three previous games. So the pressure is on because I always think of, well, tennis matches have at least six games before a set of the first thing. So we have many more years to come. So Rob, let's go. For our listeners that want to join visually while listening to this episode, we kindly invite you to go to the website gphg.org and then in the menu you can select the 2025 edition and we are looking at the subpage nominated timepieces and we're going to run down every category, six watches per category. And then Rob and I need to guess each other's pick and if you win, that gives you points and at the end of the two episodes we'll know who the winner is. And obviously this year it's me.
- [02:35]
A
I'd be more than happy to lose once because I don't just think that I've won three years in a row. There's six episodes that prove it. So if anyone doesn't believe me, Go back and listen to those episodes again. And to be honest, it's quite a nice little bank of history that we're creating. It's a great thing doing a podcast. I was thinking this the other day when listening to the first episode we did with Sylvan, which I think was maybe even before the Mirage was released and we'd seen it, of course, maybe there were some sketches out there, but it's. It is truly interesting. I know that word's used overused in this watch industry, but it is really, really interesting to go back and listen to how things change, how perceptions change, how people's mood towards the industry changes, and how the styles of watches such as these that we'll analyze today are evolving or devolving or de. Evolving as it may be.
- [03:26]
B
It's actually interesting and it's a cool segue to gphg because I now suddenly remember that I made a bold prediction that I said the Mirage is going to win a gphg maybe two years before it actually won one. Okay, interesting. Very valid point. We are creating audio horological history and I'm quite sure this one day will be incorporated into the watchlibrary.org but that's a different topic.
- [03:52]
A
That is a different topic, but one we should pursue with Martina. Okay, first category this year. Now remind me alon, how do we do the scores if we get each other's right, do we just not add a point? Do we just do plus and minuses? Or do we keep a running total like one point for every correct guess? I think we do it that way, don't we?
- [04:11]
B
The the only way you could have won three times in a row in your perception of reality is that you've cheated. But my common sense says every right choice gives you one point and whomever has more points is the winner.
- [04:28]
A
I have no idea how you're trying to convince yourself or the listeners that you came anywhere close to beating me. And I'm not sure I have to say, and maybe it's easy to say this from the winners podium, but I'm not sure it's necessarily a good thing to win this competition because it speaks volumes of maybe my erraticism. Okay, maybe on one side it means I know you very well, but I don't think that it's fair to say that you know me any less well than I know you. It's just our justifications maybe deviate somewhat in different categories. So let's see how they deviate from one another's. This year we're going to start with the ladies collection. We've got six models. As always, there's six models in every category. There's never been a situation, as far as I know in recent years at least when the process was more formalized that fewer than six watches were long listed for a category. And so we had fewer than six in the final round. But here we are. We have a model from Audemars Piguet, a model from Gerald Genta, a model from Louis Vuitton, a model from Piaget, a model from Tiffany & Co. And a model from Voutelainen. Now, this year you might have noticed we're going to take a slightly different tack. Rather than describe all the models up front, we're going to describe them through our guesses and reasoning processes to try and keep a handle on the time because we know that these things have a tendency to run on because we are chatterboxes when it comes to watches. All right, Alon, why don't you talk us through your reasoning of what you think. My pick for this round was this year.
- [05:53]
B
So before I do so we usually don't prepare this. This is very spontaneous and what we could have done is also add a third pick of what we think the jury will decide to be the final winner. But we sometimes say that just for the sake of it. But this game is really what are we going to vote? And what I love about Rob, you can't put him in a box and that's lovely. He's eclectic and he'll actually shape shift because in the first game we ever played, he utterly hated tourbillons. But you've seen he's evolved, he's maturing. He passed his 40th birth year this year, so it's becoming wiser. I didn't spot gray area but talking of gray, you've definitely did not pick the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, Mini frost Gold quartz. The only reason you would have picked it because it's quartz. But there's nothing new about it. It's not innovative. You will like the frosted finish, but Adama has done it many times before, so. So that one I've written off, the Voutilainen 28CG is stunning. Breguet numerals, vouteline signature hands with the big circles. The guilloche. I spot at least three patterns of guillos on in stunning. But in my own opinion, you didn't choose for that because it's basically a reduced version of a male sized watch. So that leaves us with a Tiffany bird on a rock Legacy Tanzanite. You never go for these watches. Stunning watch. Too many jewels going on. I'm very curious if it's actually an automoton, a tomatone. So if it actually moves or not. But I'm not too sure. Now I've brought down to three and I guess I brought it down to Piaget. In the agenda, why not the Louis Vuitton, the Tambour Convergence platinum stunning piece. There are basically two windows at the top that look like a. An. An Asian motif of a. How do you call that thing that you open up, Rob? I lost the word. Like when you're hot and you open up like a waver thing to a fan. Create a bit of a fan. Yeah, basically a fan. It reminds me a bit of a fan at the top where you have two discs for the hours and minutes. I didn't think you go for that. And then I love the Geogenta Gentissima Ursin fire opal. I also like the 6D Piaget. So the Urchin by Gerald Genta is in a new version because you and I saw the first relaunches. Not this Geneva watches but the one before when we visit Gerald Genta was a black version. I remember. So I need to boil it down to a watch because you simply wear ladies watches. So of these six, I think you would go for the PSA 60. Not only because of it's an odd shaped case, it's a trapezium version of a yellow gold watch, gold bracelet, beautiful turquoise dial, no numbers, no indexes. Stunning piece. It's a re edition, not per se innovative. But that's my pick for you, Rob.
- [09:34]
A
Okay, interesting. Your reasoning once again was superb. Especially on the ap which when I first looked at this lineup of six was my choice because I do love for frosting. You're absolutely right. I do love quartz. Absolutely right. And if I were to have any ap, it would probably be maybe not this mini one, but I would, I would love this in. I think they did it in like a 37 mil as well, which was still mechanical. I think I'd probably go for that if they did the 37 mil in quartz. So that would be my dream Royal Oak. But I did dismiss it. You're right on Vuitter linen. Too small. The Tiffany and company. I don't mind watches covered in diamonds. In fact, as I have ticked over into my 40s now, I find myself ever more attracted to diamond encrusted watches. But this one is just a bit too much for me.
- [10:25]
B
Yeah.
- [10:25]
A
Be interesting to know if it is an automaton. I guess it probably isn't, but it wouldn't surprise me. In fact, tanzanite is on like a spring and it kind of wobbled or something. That would be what I guess they'd do or something like that. My choice was actually the Louis Vuitton Tambor Convergence as platinum because I think this is one of the most beautiful watch platforms that's been created in recent years. And even though you could make the argument this is just a diamond studded version of the men's one, I'd wear this. This is the one I would wear, this is the one I would choose. This is my favorite watch of this lineup by quite some way. At the end of the day, I know Louis Vuitton are nominated in six categories, so this may not be the first time that they are a contender or a pick of one of ours. But yeah, I love, love, love that one. Now, I had you down to two pieces myself and I, I don't know how to split them, to be honest, because I could see you wearing that Louis Vuitton. I had you down to the Louis Vuitton and the Piaget. I could see you wearing the Louis Vuitton. But I think you might apply to it exactly the criticism that I just expressed, that it is not enough of a departure. And so I also picked for you the Piaget. My reticence is that as a diamantier, you do like stone setting. But I think you might have kept your powder dry for a later category when it comes to stones, not that you know what's coming, but where they're more replete. So I'm saying I think you picked the Piaget as well.
- [11:59]
B
We both did not score a point. I gave you a hint in my reasoning. I was too excited, so I gave away my enthusiasm.
- [12:09]
A
So you did pick the Gentle.
- [12:11]
B
Yeah, it has to be the Urchin. It's such a cool, stunning, innovative. Well, not anymore, but it's an old design, but it's so contemporary still today that, and in this six picks, it is the most special one. And it's so out there that I, I utterly love that watch.
- [12:33]
A
Okay, well, fair enough. I think we both kind of split the difference between the ones that we thought it could have been for each other and ended up landing on the wrong piece. But yeah, good choice. Nil. Nil after the first round, which is about as good as you could have hoped for, I guess.
- [12:50]
B
And, and just to add to your reasoning, the Tambour is stunning and the diamond could be a diamond frost it could be a hammering on the dots. Very subtle. But, but, but I, I find it too male, the watch. I don't find it feminine enough.
- [13:08]
A
Okay, okay, understood. Let's move on to the next category, which is the ladies complication category. Do you want to run through the watches and then I'll go and pick yours first?
- [13:21]
B
Yeah, yeah, let's alternate. So we have another ad code 1159 Tourbillon Chopard Imperial. A Frank Muller. Good to see Frank Muller back on the scene with a round triple mystery. Gucci is back again. They call it an interlocking model. Hermes with the cut Le Temps Suspendu and Jacob Monko back again with the mystery tourbillon 44. So robe. Good luck. I find this a very difficult category for us this year.
- [13:58]
A
Yeah, I find it difficult because I feel that the answer is obvious. But I also feel that by the same token, it's the least likely one to be picked. Let's have a look at these and let me try and work through what I think you've done. Okay. I'm going to dismiss a few off the top. So the audemars Piguet code 1159 Self winding flying Tourbillon to me is surprisingly dull for a watch of such standing and horological complexity. Basically, the lugs are diamond studded and the dial is a, a really nice top shade, to be frank, but not particularly feminine in a traditional sense, that's for sure. The crown's got some diamonds on it as well, but for me this is just dollars dishwater and is nowhere near the top pick. I think that there's very little chance that you've chosen the Gucci because although it is stone set again, cases snow set. The bezel is set with many small. What looked to be princess. No, sorry. Looked to be brilliant cut diamonds, I think. No, I don't think that's very attractive. I don't think it's particularly innovative. And I think that if you were going to pick a tourbillon, then you would probably pick the Jacob & Co. Mystery 44 because that's absolutely wild. Stone setting is even more incredible. But I don't think you've picked the Jacob and Company because I don't think that fits within your stylistic frame of reference. I am struggling between the Frank Muller, the Chopard and the Hermes. Now this Chopard, I think Chopard has a lot of brands cachet. It's very popular. It often does very well in these events. But I just don't think this is a very attractive watch. I think you might like it for a woman because it's elegant and the stone setting is good and the dial has got some artisanal craft there as well with the. I think it's enameled or micro painted by the looks of things. But I'm going to dismiss that one. The Franck Muller is very attractive. It's very nicely done. It's not as shouty as you'd expect a fully stone set watch to be. You do love stone settings. But for me the obvious choice, the best watch, the most wearable and certainly the most mature in this section is the Hermes Cote le Tempse Ponde which is an incredible complication that allows you to basically suspend the time and the watch to catch up with itself when you reactivate the time telling display. So that is my pick for you. I think that you went for the hermes Wonderful analysis.
- [16:36]
B
99.9% spot on. And it's exact same reasoning. I wouldn't even deviate from anything if the JK McCull wasn't that big because I don't mind big watches on ladies. I find it sexy even. But in my mind women are elegant per definition and the watch needs a bit of elegance at 44 simply is not even elegant for men that are not 1 meter 90 almost. So Hermes and I think that's your pick as well because I think it's copy paste in the reasoning for you and for those that are listening to the show they know that you and our dear Scarlet co host raved about the cut. I didn't have an opportunity rave about. I love Hermes. I love the fact that Hermes not only designs beautiful watches and calibers and they try to seek excellence in everything they produce but the cut is something special, the font is amazing and the suspend do is fantastic. This is elegance. Although it's a full gold gold watch. Stunning. So yes. Ding ding ding for you. And did I score a point as well, Rob?
- [17:51]
A
Yeah, you did, yeah. It was an easy one. I honestly, I love this watch. I think, look, it's 39 millimeters. So is it a woman's watch or is it a man's watch? I think it is perfectly genderless and I'd wear it. That's the only one of those watches that I would cover owning and I do, I think it's brilliant. It's a great addition to the cut to see this complication that we've seen in Dassault models before and I couldn't say enough about it. I think it is absolutely perfect. It's not cheap, comes in at 44,290 Swiss francs, which is a lot for a cut because one of the cut's main attractive selling points, of course, was its entry price. It's rather accessible entry price for an Hermes.
- [18:33]
B
It's not a lot of money because you get so much bang for your buck. I don't know the prices for a Ballon Bleu Baccatie gold on gold, or today, a Ladies Day date that don't have complications. I'm quite sure they're around that price. And looking at this caliber, this is such an amazing price. And yes, I would wear it as well, especially 39. I mean, in 36 I would wear.
- [19:01]
A
I'm not saying that it's not worth the money, relatively speaking, to what else is around it, but let's not get into the habit of saying that 44 grand is not a lot of money. It may be value for what it is in the context of watchmaking, but that is not a watch that many people in the world will ever have the chance to own. I would not spend 44,000 on that watch, even though I like it very much and would want to own it. It's a huge amount of cash. So just to remind people, we're now totally out of touch. All right, next up, we've got the Time Only collection. This is a tough one. This is always difficult because, of course, a huge variety of styles can find themselves slotted into this category. Just so people know how things work behind the scenes, anybody can actually nominate themselves for the long list. I wasn't aware of that, you know, until this year, actually, because I was always thrilled that Archinaut was getting nominated by people in the industry. And as it has been for the last two years, it's been long listed in four or five categories in total. But then I find out that anyone can do it themselves. So it doesn't mean that much to put yourself in the running for selection for the top six. Getting into the top six means you've been chosen by the GPHG members themselves. That matters. That's a real accolade. And what you get for that selection, I think, is huge. So it costs about 800 francs to nominate yourself or be nominated for the long list. And if you pick for the top six, you have the option of accepting that nomination. And you have to pay around 7 or 8,000 francs to be in this top six, which funds like the organization of the event and the roadshow that the watches go on. But the great thing about it is a brand then gets coverage for 8,000 francs from every major title, every podcast worth its salt, every content creator influencer in the world. It's the best value marketing spend you can find in the watch industry. So it's worth being strategic about what category you are putting yourself into. So, to be totally frank, the Garnet Goblin that we released for Arkanaut this year, which was nominated in two categories in jewelry and in artisanal handcraft, was conceived partly because last year in the jewelry category, there were only six models in the long list. So all six made it through. So I studied the long lists, I counted up all of the pieces that are nominated for each category, and the reason why I mentioned this is because Time Only, which we'd been nominated in last year with the Havander, I believe, had about 36 entries. So I was like, okay, well, you've got a one in six chance of getting nominated in the Time only category in 2024, whereas in 2024 in the jewelry category, you had 100% likelihood of getting through to the final six. So I said to the guys at Arkonaut, we need to design a watch that has a jewelry element and uses stones. And so the concept of working with Garnet had been lingering around for a while because, you know, I love Czechia and I have good friends in the Czech rep. So I reached out to Jan Lydmanski, who's oatchefood on Instagram, a real mover and shaker in the watch scene in the Prague region specifically, but across all of Czechia. And we developed this concept together, which we made in collaboration with Chronoshop, a retailer in the center of Prague run by a guy called Jakob Civek, who's a very nice chap. We just recently had a launch event for it in Prague and it was fantastic. But unfortunately, the Archonaut did not make it through to the final six because it seems many other people had looked at the category categories in the same way I had. And this year the nominations for the jewelry category had sprung up from 6 to around 18 off the top of my head. But it was a lot more than it was the years previously. It still didn't hold a candle to the Time Only collection though. So we have watches here from Daniel Roth, Ming Parmigiani, Fleurier, Piaget, Raul Pages and Tasaki. Quite different. All that unites them is that they are Time Only. Where to begin? Alon, take us through your reasoning.
- [22:59]
B
Wow, this is so difficult. So I know you like the Daniel Roth re editions of the Extra Plat. We see a Rose gold version here with the typical round case where the sides are cut off. A signature Daniel Roth case. We'll see a beautiful taupe color dial where the hour ring is probably gold plated with Roman numerals. The Ming Project 21 is a very special project. It's a watch Ming himself, Ming Chen said when he came up with the idea this is. Well, actually, collectors in Asia asked him what will be the ultimate Ming watch he would wear himself and want to produce. He came up with Project 21. So I believe 15 or 20 collectors backed him. They had no idea what it was. They put a deposit down and years later they produced this watch. It's a collaborative project, meaning he got supported by collectors. They took old Piguet 21 calibers, vintage calibers that they found in Switzerland. And then they turned to their friend Joe Shapiro of GN Shapiro to have the tantalum cases made by him. And also they replaced a bridge in the vintage caliber that's made of gold. So that's this watch. Then we have the Parmigiani Fleurier. Another Tonda, another Micro Roto Platinum. We've known you've been voting a lot for this model, so hence I'm very much skewed to picking this. But I hope he didn't. Piaget brought another vintage piece back. This is called the Andy Warhol watch Clue de Paris edition. So we'll see the cushion shaped case and then the bezel has a crude Paris finish which are the Pyramids. Raoul Pages RP 2. 1. This watchmaker is young, rather new, won an LV prize, very clean, very high end. I know you respect it. Don't think you've picked it. And then we have Tasaki. So Tasaki is a Japanese pearl manufacturer and jewelry manufacturer. They turned to, I call her Rockstar designer Fiona Kruger and she's been on the show. If you have no idea who she is, I highly recommend that episode. I'm a big fan. This Japanese retailer turned her to come up with a complete new design for a watch. And that design urged them to make a new caliber with a micro rotor. And what you'll see on the mother of pearl Dao, how could they not use. Mother of pearl is a disc on the front that spins. So very difficult. Rob, I think I silently hope you went for the Tasaki.
- [26:19]
A
No, interesting. Interesting one. I'll just reveal this off the top before I go through my analysis. I picked the Tsaki for you as well because I think that you have a very strong fondness for Fiona and her work. And because you are a jeweler, I think you might like the dynamic aspect of this dial. But no, it wasn't. It was fourth for me on the list, along with, I would say the. Well, it beat the Piaget and the Ming. This Ming is. Is not one that I like very much, actually. I don't like the bezel less case. It looks very ipod ish to me, which is not an insult, but it's not what I imagined from Ming. And I don't like how small, thin the crown is. That really puts me off. So the Ming was probably bottom of the pile for me. Then the Piaget, which is super cool, but it just feels like it doesn't quite come together enough for me to have chosen it. Then the Tasaki, because I think the movement is nice and I like the creativity, but it isn't a watch that I have any desire to wear. Then came the Parmigiani Fleurier. Simply because I do love the brand and I do often throw my votes in that direction. I think the dial color and the finishing is superb. If it had been 36mil and 40mil, it would have jumped up at least one place and it would have overtaken the Daniel Roth, which initially would have been my pick because I thought, you know, I love this case shape. I love the rebirth, the faithfulness of the designs to the originals and how well done they are. But for me, the Raul Pahes is not only a beautifully clear and clean design, it has the. The most attractive movement of the bunch, in my opinion. And it has a lovely crown that looks like it could be wound. It's just well balanced in every facet. I really can't say enough about this design. It may not be loud enough to grab too many people's attention, but I think it's the kind of watch that just gets better and better with time. It's something that would live very easily on the wrist. And 89,000 francs for a young and dynamic maker new to the market. I think that it's a contender. I think that it's in the sort of rechepi bracket for both brothers. I really do think it is a timeless classic. And I'll say that and maybe end up with egg on my face in 10, 15 years time, but I do doubt it. So I went for the Tazaki for you. Did I get a point or did I miss the mark?
- [29:00]
B
You've got a salute on the palace because I also think he's in that bracket. The recsep category, the siblings category, hands Down. I love that he didn't use a logo on his dial or name.
- [29:18]
A
Well, there is one, actually. If you look closely around the 4 or 5 o' clock marker, it's. It's like a ghost signature. A bit like an old Breguet style trick.
- [29:28]
B
Yeah. So very elegant and discreet. I would have gone for the Tasaki if the Ming wasn't there.
- [29:36]
A
Oh, no, you didn't pick them. I thought you might pick the Ming for political reasons. Ah, God, no, no.
- [29:43]
B
You know, we don't do politics on this show. I'm not sure I believe the Real Time show. We're called the Real Time show because we're real. We don't do politics. We're independent. We're not subsidized. We don't. We do whatever we want on the show. I almost ordered the Project 21 for myself. Wasn't it for the fact that the civilian version is a goldish colored dial instead of the blue dial we see here on the website. Because the first backers, the first 15 or 20, I just. I need to do my research again. Got the blue dial and just because they knew it was a hit, they made and double quantity with a gold color. I almost ordered the gold colored dial. But when I learned it wasn't a solid gold dial, I pulled away. I love tantalum. I love Joe Shapiro. I love Ming. And I do love that the bezel is blank. The subtle crown, I've seen it in the metal. So it. The picture doesn't do it justice because the tantalum has this beautiful luster and color to it and heft. And the caliber is stunning and the finish of the gold bridge. So I'm skewed, but I love what Kruger has done for Tasaki. It's really new and innovative. But you're right, the most interesting caliber here is the Raul pages. Well done, Rob. But unfortunately, three votes in, it's still zero.
- [31:22]
A
Well, we're tied on one. We both got the Hermes, remember, so.
- [31:25]
B
Yeah, but the balance is no different, as you said.
- [31:28]
A
Yeah, yeah.
- [31:28]
B
Balance is zero. Jumping to the next category, which is the men's category, very difficult one as well because it's technically a time only category. Might have a sub dial, might have a little power reserve or a date function here, or small seconds first.
- [31:47]
A
Not time only.
- [31:49]
B
No, fair enough, fair enough. But no complications. Nothing too crazy.
- [31:54]
A
A date's a complication, so.
- [31:56]
B
It is. It is. I agree. It is. It is. It is. We've learned that at NOMOS again during the forum.
- [32:01]
A
Oh, yeah.
- [32:04]
B
First one is Chopard Luc Quatro Mark IV. Then we have the Garrick S3 deadbeat seconds, power reserve Grand Psycho with a spring drive UFA Laurent Ferrier Classic Auto Horizon, and the urman Jurgensen. The UJ2 double wheel, natural escapement. And this is an interesting one because they've relaunched Urban Jurgensen only a few months ago. And the last one is the Zenith GFJ caliber 135. And that's the 160th anniversary tribute piece in platinum with a stunning blue dial, which is half lapis, and on the outside it's engraved or even rose engine cut, mother of pearl. Rob, good luck picking my vote.
- [33:01]
A
Yeah, this is a really tough category because I think there's not much to choose between a lot. Lot of these watches. I'm going to discount a couple straight off the bat. I'm going to chuck out the Grand Seiko because I don't think it's a particularly good Grand Seiko. Not hugely attractive, in my opinion. And it's. Although the spring drive is probably my favorite mainstream caliber, it's just a spring drive. I'm also going to get rid of Valorant Ferrier Classic Auto Horizon. Beautiful shade of blue. Perfect execution as usual. Lovely sliding date window. I think it's. It's great, but it's just something we've seen many times before. Tough to choose between the other four for you. I've got arguments for all of them. I'm gonna dismiss the Chopard and the Garrick from the running for you because I think that one's too basic and one is maybe just what we've seen before. A little bit from Garrick, I mean. And then that leads me to the Urban Jurgensen and the Zenith. It's tough, right? Because I think that this Zenith photographs horribly. I think it's nowhere near a representation of what it looks like in real life. And it received major, major plaudits when it made its way into the hands of journalists. Recent events. The Urban Jurgensen. It's a reimagining for sure. You know, like, I see a lot of Bulgari in those lugs and I see a lot of Roger Smith, George Daniels and even Breguet in Dial. I think it's very, very. No, here's what I think. I think all the elements are very nice individually. I'm not sure they hang together as well as I would need it to to make it the pick. Love the crown size. Very interested to see how it wears on the wrist. It looks like the lower Lugs are longer than the top lugs, which would be interesting from a wearability perspective. Very useful for a wearability perspective, actually, if that's the case, props to them for taking those ergonomic steps. I'm going to say that you picked the Zenith because I think that you have quite a soft spot for the brand. You know quality when you see it. I think you've had this watch in your hand and so can attest to its brilliance in real life. And I think it's the most exceptional of them. Perhaps. Ding, ding, ding, ding, ding. Yes.
- [35:20]
B
You've done a perfect reasoning. Perfect reasoning. I. And you could have added one more thing. Why I didn't pick the Urban Jurgensen. Because there's only one thing that put me off. And what is that? Rope. Only one.
- [35:37]
A
Only one thing that put that off. Oh, it's going to be the numerals. Roman numerals. You hate Roman numerals.
- [35:42]
B
Yes. I love what they did there. The hands are stunning. I also racked my brain. Are these lugs asymmetrical? I love. I also immediately got George Daniels, Roger Smith vibes because of the huge seconds sub dial. I love that it's concentric, so it's off center. The hour track, a minute track. Therefore, it's interesting they chose zero because I had big discussions with Raketta. Raketta always starts with a zero. So they explained to me that the Russians always say, why does. Why do watches start at 12? Time starts at 0. So everything is 0 with them. So it's an interesting pick here. Caliber wise, stunning. But Garrick could have been a contender for me. I love what Garg does love Garrig watches. I do love skeleton watches. You less. But I think that with this beautiful big balance wheel, it works better with a closed dial. So when you have a physical dial, actually not a closed dial, but an actual dial. So the Zenith on paper, indeed, you're right. Doesn't do it justice. And. But when you have that beautiful noble platinum metal in your hands and you know that afterwards, after launching the watch, they added a platinum bracelet to the watch and that's breathtaking. It's. It's very elegant. You get this jeweled experience on your wrist, but when people look at yours, they think it's just a simple blue dial, but there's depth into it and there is not so much luster, but you see vivid colors that you can't mimic by plating or dialing or enabling even. So, yes, they could have done by dumping the G F G off the dial. I think it's not needed there. So that's basically my only point of criticism, pivoting around to what you've picked. You definitely didn't choose the Chopard and, well, Grand Psycho, you've just explained why you and I both love Laurent Ferrier. But I don't think you mentioned the sliding date. So initially I thought you were talking about that, the date, disk slides, but there is a little slope there from the central axis towards.
- [38:12]
A
Yeah, that's what I meant. Sorry if I was a bit misleading.
- [38:14]
B
Aperture. Yeah. It's interesting that you said that because I also perceive it as a slide. So I know you love Garak as well. I would have picked Urban Jurgensen for you, but because of listening to your reasoning, I think you went for the Zenith as well.
- [38:35]
A
Oh, no, I'm sorry. Urban Jurgensen would have been my second choice. I went for the one you dismissed immediately. I went for the Chopard, which might.
- [38:44]
B
No way.
- [38:45]
A
Yeah, way. Way. Way. Way. I can explain myself. I love what Dave does at Garrick. I think that the watch is actually really beautiful, but I don't like open dial watches very much myself. So although I think it's an absolutely superb piece, I wouldn't change a thing about it for what it does for the collection, but it's just not for me, that Grand Seiko. I think the dial is actually. I think it's rank and I think it's one of the worst spring drives they've done. So that was just nowhere near a contender. I find Lauren Ferrier to be beautiful but benign. They never move me very much at all. There are loads of makers like the Rahul Raul Pajes that we saw in the previous round has a similar sort of esthetic to the movements and I just rather have that because I think it's a much more attractive and interesting watch on the wrist. I think this Zenith looks crap on screen. Amazing in real life, but I just don't like it very much. I just. It doesn't. Doesn't touch me in any way and I can't really get to grips with whether it's a sports watch or a jewelry watch. So it wasn't near the top for me. At best it was third, but probably fourth behind the Garrick. I love the Urban Jurgensen. I think I don't have a problem with the Roman numerals as much as I do with the fact that they seem to be squeezed in there a bit, like they look way too small for the openness of the dial. I would have just not had them to Be honest, I would have got rid of them and I might have put the Urban Jurgensen maybe on two lines or at least over at 9 o' clock across the center axis. Like you might see in some Ulisnardans, they do that when they move the name away from the center. Because I think that this. The elements are beautiful, but like I say, they don't go together very well. Like they. They just seem huddled and a bit cramped. And I could do with those, the apertures on the hands as well being a bit bigger. You know, if you look up, of course, Viland is heavily involved in the rebirth of, of. Of Urban Jurgensen. But if you look up to the first category, to the ladies and take a look at Vinen's hands, now give me a handset with those proportions on what looks to be a bigger watch to begin with and I'm all there. So I think Urban Jurgensen has got loads of stuff going for it. I think they'll find their way. I'm sure there'll be a market for it because people love Kari and everything Kari touches turns to gold. But I think that there's things that could be different about that watch. The only one of these pieces that I think is pretty much perfect is the Chopard. I think the crown is nicely sized and interestingly shaped. I love the dial finish. I think the hands are a thing of absolute beauty. They're structural and elegant at the same time. The date indication sharing the sub dial with the go in seconds is neat and tidy. And I think also from the case back, it's one of the nicest movements going and a nine day power reserve. So yeah, for me it actually, despite being a real curveball that you dismissed right off the bat, probably the easiest choice so far.
- [41:30]
B
I dismissed it because the index for the 6 o' clock is cut off and you see that the caliber is probably a bit smaller because I would have liked to see this maybe in a 36, 37 where the subdial reaches the minute track. So that's why I dismissed it so quickly. But I do want to go on the record and say Chopard and especially Luc doesn't always get the credit and love that I think they deserve. And for those that are maybe not aware, Ferdinand Bertu is also a member of the Chopard Group and the chauffeur Le Babies. So you know, these guys have a long term vision and they have the ambition to make beautiful mechanical watches at the highest possible level there is. Because at Geneva Watch Days they launched the. The handmade piece Which I think is part of the Aeon Watch project.
- [42:37]
A
You know, you're absolutely right that Chopard doesn't get the pop that it deserves in almost all four of watchmaking. The only one where that isn't true is the gphg. It frequently walks home with multiple gongs. And I could see this model because we haven't been saying which ones we think are going to win the overall like in the actual competition. I think that the Louis Vuitton will win the ladies. I think the Hermes will will the comp will win the complication. I think probably in the time only the Daniel Roth might win. And I could see this one winning here because it's Chopard and they have the inside track when it comes to this event. So watch this space.
- [43:13]
B
Interesting, because Urban Jurgensen I'm quite sure will win at least one.
- [43:17]
A
Yeah, but it's nominated in like some people five categories or something.
- [43:21]
B
Exactly, exactly. Well said. And that's my secret to the men's complication category. That in this category probably this is not the most interesting. Urban Jurgensen. So it won't win. So very interesting. I think you're right. It's either the Chopard or the Zenith that will. Yeah. So jumping quickly to keep the speed up a bit. I'm going to deviate, Rob, because I think before we describe the watches or you know what, this time I will describe all the watches because I think it's a very easy win. And you and I have picked the same one. So after I've described them, we're going to going to shout simultaneously which pick we have for each other.
- [44:01]
A
Okay.
- [44:01]
B
It's probably going to be stereo. Why we see another Audemars Piguet as the first pick in this category because they're ranked alphabetically. So don't think there is a prejudice here. It's a royal oak perpetual calendar 150th anniversary open worked. So skeleton version of the Perpetual Beauvais 1822 with the recital 30. So we'll see a big case pushers and if I see correctly, it's a very busy dao. We'll have a day night indicated in the middle and we'll have world time times I think across the board going to Chopard. Another nomination for them is a Luc Lunar one with which is a perpetual and a big date salmon dial. I owe the answer what metal. It is probably precious because when you look at the GPHG nomination list which I'm reading out now and describing visually what I see, I have to click on each image to read what materials there are, which I didn't do right now. Fourth runner up is the Louis Vuitton in a collab with voutilainen. It's the LV KV02. It's a pig watch. The funny thing is the lugs seem to be a bit in an X patch. So my eyes think tricks on me. Robo, help me out.
- [45:38]
A
No, they do look to be slightly flared. Yeah, they do look to point out slightly. So kind of cool. Looks different.
- [45:44]
B
Interesting. Yeah, interesting. And obviously nobody else does it better than Voutelainen. It's a mosaic of probably enamel on the hour track of Roman numerals. We'll see a subdial. We see a power reserve at the top and a subdial at the bottom that is yellow and bluish.
- [46:06]
A
Possibly the coolest day night indicator of all time. Maybe the only one that hands a candle to it is the Lange one. I reckon Lange one moon phase because that's a super cool method. But yeah, this is sweet. Yeah, yeah.
- [46:18]
B
So and then we jump to the fifth one which is a Parmigiani Fleurier. This time they're nominated with a toric case and a Quan Chem perpetual. We'll see a white metal, probably precious, could be steel with Parmigiani Fleurier. Very clean dial. Only small indexes for the hours and two subtiles that are positioned below the center, so lower than the central axis. So the position in between the 3 and 4 and the 8 and 9. And we'll see on the right hand side the months plus an index four when we have the leap year. And on the left we'll have probably the seconds running and the day indicators with an icy lilac ish blue dial.
- [47:05]
A
I actually think that there's no seconds hand on this because if you look at it on the left hand dial there's the day and the date. Two hands on the right hand dial it's the month and the year. And the case is platinum by the way. So It's a limited 50 piece edition. 92,000 francs and yeah, carry on.
- [47:24]
B
Since you opened the actual page for the watch, what color do they call this dial? I'm very curious.
- [47:30]
A
They don't give it a color. Let me just look at. Not in the specs, but maybe in the description. No.
- [47:40]
B
So you, you have, you have proof on air we did not prepare this. And then the last runner up while Rob is researching, if we can find. I'd call it a clue that they named it themselves. Blue Icy.
- [47:51]
A
I'd call it Sky Blue, probably. Or cornflower blue, maybe baby blue. I, I don't know.
- [47:59]
B
Interesting. Anyways, colors. Parmigiani does best. They always have these beautiful, elegant, toned down, vibrant colors. Then we have another Urban Joergsen as I just mentioned before. This time they're nominated with the UJ3, a perpetual calendar with again a double wheel escapement. We'll see again pink, gold, black dial, leather strap. And this time they didn't go cold. Centric so much actually a tiny bit. And we'll have a power reserve at 12 o'.
- [48:31]
A
Clock.
- [48:32]
B
We'll see a date indicator at 9, a month indicator at 3 o'. Clock. But actually above the central axis between 4 and 5, we'll see the date. And I'm guessing here, I don't have my glasses on. This has a second hand. And then we'll see a beautiful moon phase in between the seven and nine.
- [48:56]
A
O' clock and the day. So nine.
- [48:59]
B
Yeah, I mentioned that I, I went off a bit. I, I zigzagged back and forth. I didn't go clockwise.
- [49:04]
A
Right.
- [49:05]
B
I'm sorry for that. Now, Rob, do you agree with me we should just shout out each other's pick or not?
- [49:09]
A
We gonna do the brand?
- [49:11]
B
Agree with me. It's an easy pick.
- [49:12]
A
I think it's, I think it's a piece of cake really. But there is one that sort of lingers in my mind. I just don't think you'll have picked the second one. I, I. Do you want to do brand or model when we shout it out?
- [49:22]
B
Brand.
- [49:23]
A
Okay, well let's do three, two, one and then we go.
- [49:26]
B
Okay. Three, two, one. Johnny.
- [49:29]
A
Yeah, yeah, yeah, Agreed, agreed. I was worried that you only one that held a candle to it for me was the Louis Vuitton because I think that that Mosaic Hour track is gorgeous. But again, Roman numerals and a bit wacky. The Toric is probably the nicest watch in existence right now. And I know that's a huge thing to say on a watch podcast, but I just think this rebirth is majestic and quite literally so I believe it is the choice of the king. So. Yeah, good on you, Charles.
- [49:58]
B
It is, it is. King Charles is still wearing historic. I see him now most daily in the media in the uk and you'll often see his elegant Tauric. I believe he has a chronograph 36 or something. It's a vintage piece that he's been wearing for over 25 years. Because I always say something becomes vintage. It's a. If it's at least 25 years. Old but. And you're talking about the rebirth. So it's not completely fair because Parmigiani hasn't been rebirthed. Michel Parmigiani founded the company. It's never stopped to exist or work. But you mean ever since Guido Terrini took the helm at the company? Is that what you mean? Rome?
- [50:33]
A
No, I mean. No, I mean the rebirth of the turret because the whole turret collection was re revamped and brought back in like a year or two ago and it changed it from what was somewhat lot of a stuffy line I think into the most elegant, chic and forward facing thing that they do. So yeah, love it.
- [50:52]
B
Yeah, it's and it and, and, and the brand Parmigiani flu always has been elegant. Michelle has an elegant design language. His, his signature for a long time was the Tonda case with the tear shaped lugs. If you look from the side, I think also why it's good that the tour came back because they don't have the tear shaped lugs. And but what Guido does and he does best, he adds this Italian flair to Parmigiani, what he did at Bulgari for a long time. And here comes one of my favorite slogans of all time. Molto non tropo which means a lot but not too much. And there is a lot of bang for buck. There's a lot going on but it's definitely too much. It's so elegant. That's why I would have picked this watch. And what I also love. I didn't mention that in my description. They didn't write Al Parmigiano fleurier in a full name on the dial. They just did the ellipse egg shaped PF logo which he brought back because a while it was gone, which I think is very elegant.
- [52:00]
A
Yeah, I think it really, really benefits from that. I just, I think this is maybe a good example to put up against the Urban Jurgensen to express exactly what I critiqued the UJ for. And that was that all the elements were great. They were just kind of in the wrong place. I think the Taric, especially this complicated Contiem perpetual model is just supremely well arranged. Like everything is just perfectly proportioned in its place leading to exquisite balance, visual harmony. I can't say enough about this watch. I just think that they have a real sensitivity when it comes to color as well. I've decided I'm going to call this light cornflower blue. That's my, that's my description of it. They do a sage green. They do like a Warm Tobacco Brown. They are just smashing it. When it comes to chromatic selection, let's move on to the Iconic. I want to try and get through two more categories in this episode, if possible. Alon. And then we'll leave the remaining seven or eight for episode two.
- [53:03]
B
Sure thing. And if I may suggest, Dear Rob, I think we can pull the same trick on the Iconic category that's next up because I think you should describe the six and we'll do the game of counting down. 3, 2, 1. And shout the name again.
- [53:17]
A
Oh, good grief. I'm not sure that's as simple as you think it is, but we'll have a go and see what we result in picking. So. All right, what we have here are the Anderson Genev. It's another one of our world timers. They always enter one of these pieces. I'm a huge fan, as everybody knows. I love the micropaint center dials. I think they're extremely elegant. They often pop up in the ladies category and I often vote for them there because I think that they are very genderless watches. Why not wear one of those on your wrist with the sunken crown, similar to the David Kando system that we've seen. You could just get away with that on a very petite wrist with no problem whatsoever. Then we've got an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak perpetual calendar in a very interesting shade of gold. It's called sand gold. It has a grand tapisserie dial. It's beautiful. It's most similar to Lange and Zehna's Honey gold that they sometimes deploy on their special editions and believe they have done recently on a new ultra thin Saxonia model which is very, very nice. This is your standard perpetual calendar from Royal Oak, basically, apart from the sand gold. Nothing to see there. The Breguet Classique Subscription 2025. It's a single handed model. It's like a fancy Meistersinger. Hopefully no one from Breguet hears that and comes after me. It is beautifully done. It is expertly executed as you'd expect. It has the kind of movement that you demand from Breguet. They're really leaning into these engravings and scroll works and whatnot on their movements. I find them a bit much sometimes, but it is pretty tasteful as far as modern Breguet goes. 45,000 francs. So not chump change then. We've got the Bulgari XMBNF Serpenti, one of the wildest, most recognizable watches and brand collabs ever. It's the first male Serpenti as listeners will know, we've actually designed male serpenti for Bulgari on the Real Time show, but they haven't picked up that idea and run with it just yet. But this one has obviously been in the works for quite some time. It is a wild piece. It is very cool from certain angles. When you can really see the snake's head from others, it doesn't quite reveal itself for what it's supposed to be. But I think this picture, this color, makes it quite obvious where we see the snake. Then we've got another entry from Parmigiani Fleurier, the Tonda Pfgmt rattrapant in a gorgeous green color. They have their typical grain dorge hand geoche dial pattern here. And the BI color. Well, the use of BI color metal to indicate the second time zone. It's gorgeous. It's wearable. It's only 40 millimeters wide and 10.7 millimeters thickness. It's about as good as a watch of that complication gets. And then there's the Piaget Andy Warhol with this beautiful stepped case. It's a squashed oval or a squarish oval or a rounded rectangle, if you prefer, with a tiger's eye Dial time only. Elegance incarnate. A classic Piaget. Are we ready to shout out our winning brand?
- [56:18]
B
Yes.
- [56:19]
A
Give us the countdown.
- [56:21]
B
Three, two, one. Yeah.
- [56:25]
A
Okay, good. So we're on the same page there. Yeah. What to say, really, it's. It's a complete outlier in this collection. Right. I mean, did anything come close for you?
- [56:35]
B
Well, how can you. Well, we both love Fabrice Buonmasa. We love Bulgari. We love MB and F. And. And what are the Oscars of the watchmaking for to award the exceptional? And in this category, that is the most exceptional. If the. The Bulgari wasn't there, I think both of us would have gone for the brigade. Maybe just for the fact that it's a. What is it, 250th or 280th anniversary? I don't even remember. And it's a subscription model. And, and, and. And they deserve it, and.
- [57:15]
A
Well, speak for yourself. I would have gone for the Anderson.
- [57:18]
B
Okay, fair enough.
- [57:19]
A
And I would have gone for the Parmigiani before the Breguet. And I would have gone for the Piaget before the Breguet. I might even have taken the AP before the Breguet. Ow. I know. I like the sand gold. I think it's cool.
- [57:32]
B
Okay. All right. That. Maybe that's. That's a oracle subject and very interesting article analysis subject. And especially if David writes it as a Frenchman being the most important. Well, not only French maker ever, watchmaker ever, but worldwide, historically the best watchmaker ever. Very interesting. But to go Back to the MB&F, an interesting little fact. Recently I saw Fabrizio posting on his Insta that he enjoyed working on the second chapter with mbnf, which is this serpent that you and I both picked as one of the most challenging projects ever for him. And he's worked a rather complicated project, so I found that very interesting and fun to see. Any final thoughts or should we jump to your. Well, ex favorite complication?
- [58:33]
A
I have two final thoughts. First one is, I know Breguet was Swiss French, but are we really giving him to the French because he was born in Neuchatel. Like he's not a French born watchmaker. He was very involved in the French court, obviously, but. And he obviously had French nationality at one point in his life, but we called him French. Since when did we call him Breguet French?
- [58:53]
B
The French, French are claiming him, so for goodness sake.
- [58:59]
A
Okay, right, so the French have claimed Breguet who. And this is my second point. Point looks a lot like car over to Leinen. Do you not think like when you look at the portrait of Brega that like Kari could easily like dress up as him, pull it off? What is it about that sort of head shape that makes for a good watchmaker?
- [59:18]
B
Is the big, the forehead and the receding hairlines?
- [59:23]
A
Yeah. Is that all you need to be a good watchmaker? A massive forehead and a receding hardly, apparently. Okay, that's a winning combo.
- [59:30]
B
Hence you're not a good watchmaker. You still have hair and you're very handsome.
- [59:36]
A
Oh, thanks very much. It's the best excuse I've ever heard.
- [59:39]
B
Correlation proven.
- [59:41]
A
Correlation. There we go. Proof. Yeah, proof is in the pudding, as you like to say. Right, so we're moving on to the tourbillon category. That's gonna be the last one we address in part one of our usual double header as well. You know, here we have models from Arnold and Son, Bulgari, Czapek, Fam. Al Hout, Louis Vuitton and Urban Jurgensen. Once again. So I, well, I, I, who's describing what? We did a slightly different thing with the last two categories, didn't we? So let, let me go through this reason. Or do you want to do it first? No, whatever.
- [60:11]
B
Fine, go.
- [60:13]
A
I struggle here because I, I think it's between, it's between two possibly Three of these watches. I think I know who's going to win this category and that is going to be my pick, I would guess. But what to do for you? Hmm. I'm instantly going to dismiss Arnold and son. I'm going to dismiss Bulgari. Even though I know you love Bulgari because we've seen a lot of these ultra thin tourbillons from Bulgari and I'm instantly a dismiss Chapek. Despite our love for the brands, I don't think that that this Antarctique Tourbillon and Glacier Blue is the most remarkable or novel thing we've seen here. So that takes me to the three models arranged on the bottom line of these three. The last three alphabetically. The Fam Al Hoot, the Louis Vuitton and the Urban Jurgensen. And the Pham Al Hoot has been gaining a huge following around the industry because it is a reasonably priced, I would say tourbillon for what it is. It's 26,500. It's very unusual in its shape. The execution is by all accounts excellent. It looks more like a fitness tracker than a luxury watch to be fair. When you use a silhouette.
- [61:32]
B
Yeah, funny you say that.
- [61:33]
A
It does though, doesn't it?
- [61:34]
B
That's the only reason I don't pick it, cuz it's amazing.
- [61:40]
A
Yeah, it is, it is super cool. But yeah, I, I, I wouldn't want to wear it. I know Dave Sargent from Fratello. My mate from Fratello is hugely into this watch. It's right up Dave Street. He loves all the Baron stuff and you know, all the really wild like out there open complication stuff which is becoming more and more affordable as people get more and more ambitious with their designs. Takes me to a Louis Vuitton Tambor Tykyo Spin Time Air Flying Tourbillon, which I think is super cool. I love their spin time complication. And I would maybe pick this for you, but for one thing, arm hair. You don't love totally transparent watches and you, like me, have gorilla wrists and that would make this watch pretty unwearable like or not very attractive on the wrist. Which leads me to the Urban Jurgensen. Now it does have roman numerals. Will you be able to overcome that or will that push you back into the arms of your old lover Bulgari? I don't know. But Urban Jurgensen is almost certainly going to win a category somewhere along the way. I think this is the one where the door has been left ajar by the other five models. I think that you will probably think this is the best layout of the three dials we've seen thus far. And this is the third and final Urban Jurgensen to be nominated this year. I have to say that I think you're gonna pick that one.
- [63:00]
B
No, I didn't.
- [63:03]
A
Damn it.
- [63:03]
B
I. I love watches that have tourbillons that are hidden on the front side, which sounds idiotic, right? Because they're not hidden and they weren't always visual. And you know, old Pateks with tourbillons come to mind. I. I can't overcome those numbers. The. The Urban Jurgensen is stunning. I love what this brand is doing. But you. You mentioned it. Besides that, the Roman numerals. There is a dissonance by using a zero and Roman numerals. But you're right, they're a bit compressed. They're too compressed. There's so much detail in the dial and the gyosh and the finishing and everything. And then these printed numbers. But truth has to be told, I've never held one in my hands. And I always said I never form an opinion for myself to buy or not buy a watch until I've held the watch. So. So I went for the Capek. Actually. Dear Rob.
- [64:03]
A
No way.
- [64:04]
B
Yeah, hands down. I didn't even need to think about it.
- [64:08]
A
Wow. Well, props to Jeff A and team. Yeah, yeah, yeah.
- [64:11]
B
Really. Because you know what? The. The. The Antarctic is splendid. It's superb. Love it. From day one I loved it. I can't criticize anything about it. In the beginning you and I had big discussion about if it's a U link or a C link. And obviously it's a C link, but I still see use. But I thought there were two sharp. These Cs, the edges, the 90 degree angles. But in real life it works. Stunning piece. Whenever I see you with your green dialed one, I steal it off your wrist and don't want to return it to you. And often I hope you get so drunk off your face, surrounded by beautiful woman that you forget, but you never forget. So I still don't have you or Chapek now to add something to that I think would deteriorate the design, but I don't know how they did it. It's a stunning watch. I love that there is like this verticalness and horizontalness going on, meaning you have the barrel at the top at 12 o' clock tourbillon, which is a flying tourbillon at the 6 o' clock position. And then this bridge holding everything together running from three sweetest nine. It works. And I love it. Why didn't I pick the Arnold the sun?
- [65:29]
A
I always.
- [65:30]
B
I love Arnold sun, but it's too much of Breguet vibes for me going on there. So it's a mix between Jacques DRO and Breguet for me. So I. I don't feel it. You're right about the Bulgari and I love the concept of the Ultra, but still the Bulgari I have. So one of the OGs with just a plain closed dial is the one I love the most. Then. The Famal Hut is fantastic. I think they're going to win the jury award this year because it's.
- [66:08]
A
You mean like Audacity? Like Sylvan won last year?
- [66:10]
B
Either that or in this category one. I think they're gonna win something. Something. Okay.
- [66:14]
A
Yeah. I think they might get the Audacity. I could see that. Although we haven't been through the rest of the models yet. But I think that they are primed for something like that. Yeah.
- [66:22]
B
Yeah. And I'm dying to get them on the show because I believe they're Asian. Arabic name. Mobius is a Germanic name. So I just want to know what's going on. And for this price point, it's mind boggling. So I thought there was a zero missing there in the price. Now the two. The. The Louis Vuitton. You're 100% right. Are us with the gorilla hands. If it's such a stunning watch, I'll forgive a transparent dial, but usually I don't buy them and I don't like the LV Lotus so much. It's. I'm like, really? Did you have to do that? I know they need to brand the brand and a lot of people buy Louis Vuitton because it's Louis Vuitton and not so much because of the Metier des Art, as they say. So that's my reasoning why I chose the Czapek. I didn't need to think twice. Now I'm very much worried what to choose for you because I haven't chosen yet. I've been listening very careful to your reasoning. I would have gone for the Fam Al hood, but when you said fitness track, I'm like, ooh. You were put off for the same reason, a stupid reason, as I did. You didn't go for the Bulgari. You would have gone for the Vuitton if it wasn't that transparent. You've dismissed the Chapek, but strangely enough, that's my pick for you.
- [67:43]
A
Oh, Alon. Alon.
- [67:45]
B
No open goal.
- [67:47]
A
Mate, I pretty sure that I revealed it unintentionally. I've gone for the Urban Jurgensen.
- [67:55]
B
Oh, no.
- [67:56]
A
Yeah, yeah.
- [67:57]
B
No, it wasn't that clear. No.
- [67:59]
A
Oh, sorry. Well, so, okay.
- [68:03]
B
So, yeah, we're rounding up part one of a two part episode where we run through seven categories and I'm sad to say you're in the lead.
- [68:14]
A
Yeah, marginally. I'm. I'm four, three up. I thought you were going to tie it up there because I thought. I thought I was going to get your pick here. I was miles off. Absolutely miles off. I would have thought you'd have ranked the Chapek 5th. So I was nowhere near on this one. I have to hold my hands up. Just a bit of color and then we'll wrap up because we have a meeting to jump into actually with 360. Watch our agency. I love tourbillons when they're hidden. What I don't. What I never liked about tourbillons was that they often dominated the dial and created too much visual disruption for me. I've always been a fan of them when they're hidden because I think that that's really beautiful. Elegant and mature design. The movement on this Urban Jurgensen is ridiculously hot. Like, it's just gorgeous. It's like the supermodel of movements. It's just stunning. All of like the elegance and refinement and paired back style that you'd expect a man of Kari's experience to be able to bring to a project like this. Absolutely top draw for me. So, yeah, I'm sorry, I thought we were gonna end on what would have been a nice kind of cliffhanger to begin the second part tied at 4 all. But yes, I finish this episode with my nose slightly in front.
- [69:23]
B
Yeah. And I'm an idiot. Yeah. Part two, I'm putting on glasses, reading glasses, and I'm going to check out all the underlying pages because I'm only looking now at the picture of the Urban Jurgensen and it's mind boggling. I didn't even know it was remontoir and I would have put this caliber, flipped it and put that at the front without hands. It's stunning.
- [69:46]
A
Well, we have eight categories left to explore in episode two. Plenty of chances for alon to catch up, overtake me and secure that elusive win. Please tune in next week to find out the conclusion of our GPHG rundown for 2025. If you want to get in touch with us, add some comments to this episode already, then please do via either the network on WhatsApp which you can join by contacting us via our emails either Rob or alonherealtime show. You can find us on Instagram Robn u u d d s or a l o n b e n j o s e p h David. You can email @David TheRealTime show or via his Instagram account. That's D A V a u c h e r and Scarlett can be found on Instagram @Carlintheshire S C A r l I n t h e s H I r e We'll be back very soon to conclude this thrilling run through of the nominated watches for this year's Oscars of watchmaking. Until then, stay safe and keep on ticking.