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- [00:00]
A
Foreign.
- [00:06]
B
Welcome back to part two of the GPHG Predictions game, where Alon and I go head to head trying to guess each other's preferences for the upcoming GPHG awards to be held in November very soon. So, Alon, how you feeling after last week's D stop?
- [00:28]
A
Not good. I am behind. I'm adamant to win. I didn't have my reading glasses on because I always freaking forget them and I'm going to read now the underlying pages per watch because that gave you the advantage. So we have a lot of ground to cover. Let's get rolling. Wrong.
- [00:48]
B
Yeah, let's get rolling and let's approach this as we always do, formulaically, straight down the line and see where it takes us. Category number one is the mechanical exception category. Now for this year we have entrants from Arminstrom, Greubel, Forsey, Hazeman and Monin, Louis Vuitton, Luca Soprano and Van Cleef and Arpel who are always dangerous in this category. Alon, do you want to go through and tell me who you think I picked for this challenge?
- [01:27]
A
I definitely do. This is a difficult challenge. Again. So the Armin Strom have a beautiful black version of their dual time GMT resonance. They call it the manufacturer edition. So you have two beautiful, well, basically not sub dials but actual dials and then it basically becomes a half skeletonized movement. If you're familiar with the resonance concept, kudos. If you don't, check back previous episodes with the chaps from Armin Strom. Very interesting natural phenomenon that actually helps watchmakers to have more precision in timekeeping. Grebel Forsey have the Nano Fou Dran. Very interesting piece as well. It has a additional push piece pusher in the case at 2 o' clock and then it seems like a mono pusher in the crown. It looks like a chrono and it is a chrono. Foudroyan is actually a very interesting complication. You'll see an open worked area between the 4 and 5, so it's not in the center. So not bang at 6 o' clock and then two little sub dials at 1 between 7 and 8 and 1 at 9 o'. Clock. Cool watch. Don't think Rob picked it, but let's see. Hazeman and Monin, they call this the school watch subscription. Very, very interesting. Basically skeletonized. I did not click on the underlying page yet to read out all the complications that that watch has. It is in the mechanical exception category and it is exceptional. Again, a Louis Vuitton, a pocket watch this time. Interesting Rainbow is setting gemstones. So princess cut gemstones in an array of colors. Tutti footy. We didn't have that for quite some time, did we, on the podcast? But I think I should trademark it because it has been or actually become a thing in the TRTS community. Shout out to the community. Then we have for me, kind of a newcomer because the brand is called Luco Luca Soprana, not Soprano and not the Sopranos. But the model is called Derek Pratt Remontoire d'. Egalit. But the dial of the watch says Derek Pratt Roman numerals. There is a sub dial. Seconds between 7 and 8, 7 and 9 actually bang at the 8 o' clock position. It's a dress watch. I'm actually very curious to learn more about this watch. I omitted to mention. Sorry. On the Louis Vuitton. I need to jump back one. That there is a beautiful scenery painted. Well, it is. It seems like a dial, but it isn't. It's Point Neuf. So there has to be Paris. So it's a tribute to Paris by Louis Vuitton. And the last one is Van Cleef in Arpel where we see a automaton. It's called the Lady Arpel Bal the Amoureux Atomat. So the name says we'll see a man, a woman holding hands, so obviously they're going to dance. It's diamond set in the bezel. And those are flying lugs, which are a signature for Van Cleef and Appel. Very difficult category. If I need the reason, the last three I'll omit for Rob. I don't think he'll win for a scenic pocket watch. The Derek Pratt I still need to learn. Besides that remontoir, which is difficult. And recently the Dutch GR brothers put the remontoir back on the map. We have a beautiful. It's not a real remontoir, but the same con. The concept of. Of dosing the energy with a leather. I don't think he went for the Van Cleef and Arpel because they had multiple of these calibers already being nominated for gbhg. Now I know he's a fan of Armindstrom, he's a fan of Greubel, and I actually don't know what he thinks about the has, but put a gun to my head. I think he went for the Arminstrom because I call this a stealth complication. This is a if you know, you know kind of thing. It's an intellectual complication. It's a geeky complication. It is cool that you let Nature help you get more chronometer precision. Normally I would have maybe picked for German Force for Rob, but aesthetically I don't think this is their most beautiful watch there is. I know he's not a big fan of the Hazaman, sorry, of skeleton watches. Therefore Hazaman and Monin would not be my choice. But this edition, the fourth edition of us playing this GPHG game, you throw some curveballs because you went for. Well, actually mechanical exception. So I'm in doubt pulling the trigger. I'll go for Armin Strong. Rob, release me out of my misery.
- [07:09]
B
Well, at the top of the show we said to each other before we started recording, hey, we've got to get this done in an hour, hour and 10 minutes max. And he goes, ah, no problem, no problem. And I said, I don't know about that, mate. We've got more categories to go through today than we did last week. And last week ran into 70 plus minutes. And he's just talked there for almost seven minutes, not quite six. Six and bit very interesting reasoning. I also picked the Arminstrom for you. You don't have to tell me whether I'm right or wrong yet just to touch on that Hazeman and moaning. I wouldn't call this skeletonized. I would call this open work. For me, like skeletonized is when you go all the way through the watch and you. But you are right, I'm not a huge fan of open work dials either. I mean, it was similar to the Garrick in last week's episode. I respect it. I much prefer open work to skeletonized because I don't like to see my wrist hair. That's mostly why I don't like skeletonized and I think it's a bit much sometimes. This looks like beautiful work. It wasn't my pick. Neither was the Gribble Forsey, because you know what? I can't look at that watch and not see the Nomos, Glassiter Club Sport World Timer, Neomatic. For some reason I think it's the pusher at 2. Just reminds me entirely of it. It wasn't the Louis Vuitton. The top three for me were the Arminstrand, the Luca Soprano and the Van Cleef and Arpel. And I was torn between two of them. Unfortunately for you, it was not the Armin Strong which came in third place for me. I instinctively wanted to go for Van Cleef and Arpel because I always like to throw a vote their way. I love the work they do. I think that they are exceptional. I think that they are an exception in the industry. And I really enjoy, relish, and appreciate their presence. And so, yeah, they score very highly for me on that front. However, Derek Pratt. Do you know who Derek Pratt was?
- [08:56]
A
Well, if I remember correctly, it's an English watchmaker, so probably this is a tribute an Englishman, because what mostly people don't know that besides that Britannia ruled the waves, they were exceptional in watchmaking. So if I remember correctly, that's a famous watchmaker that I've seen in the Natural History Museum.
- [09:20]
B
Yeah, he was around in the latter 20th century, a contemporary of George Daniels, and he didn't die that long ago. I remember the announcement of his death in the horological journal. Let's just find out when he died. So we know he died in 2009. Okay, so that ties up with this story very nicely. Yeah. Using the mechanical concept that Derek Crowder.
- [09:45]
A
Perfect.
- [09:45]
B
Perfected in tourbillon escapements, the Remontoire del Galata a la seconde on a ruby cam, Lucas Soprano has completed the master's work that began in 2009. So he's brought to life a vision that Derek Pratt was never able to manifest in his lifetime. And it's. For me, it's. It's easily the most attractive watch from the front in this collection anyway, but it's definitely the most attractive from the back. It is an absolute showstopper. Beautiful frosted bridges in an English style. Double snail tops on the twin barrels. There's nothing to not like about this watch that pays homage to one of the great watchmakers of the 20th century and a man who George Daniels counted among a frequent collaborator, someone who was involved in the development of a coaxial escapement that obviously has had a ripple effect on the industry ever since. So. So my choice was. Was the Luca Soprano. And I pick for you the Armin Strom. How did that do?
- [10:46]
A
1 mil for Rob Nuds. So was a difficult call for me is I love Gribble, but as you said, this doesn't do for me. And indeed, it reminds me of the Nomos club sports. That's a compliment for Nomos. Then the I love minute repeaters. Striking hours will do it for me. But there is too much going on at the Hazaman morning. And as you've heard on the show, I did not know exactly who Lucas Afrana was. I did not look at the backside because I didn't load the page. But the caliber is stunning, as you just described. It's actually a super fascinating story. Whereas Roger Smith is also an apprentice of George Daniels. And it's beautiful how they continue that work. Breguet also had to have his. Well, his child continue his work. And the Marie Antoinette is in a great reminder of that. I do not think the dial is beautiful. The caliber is. I would love to have him on the show that here his journey. I love resonance watches. So for me it wasn't that difficult to decide. Going quickly to the next category. Chronographs here if I remember correctly, your favorite complication.
- [12:05]
B
G. Exactly.
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A
G. So we have an MVE split second Chronograph World Timer Angulus with a Chronograph telemetric yellow gold ad first time they are on the first position with a Royal Oak concept split seconds Chronograph GMT Large date. One of the longest titles in this award ceremony this year. H. Moser with Streamliner Alpine Driver's edition Louis Monet 1816 and the Min 20.01 Series 5. Rob, is it my turn or yours? Actually yours.
- [12:51]
B
So yeah, you're right. Chronograph's favorite complication. Tough, tough, tough category to work through. Really. My choice will surprise you because it was very easy for me to make. I think I know you think you know. Okay. I struggle to. To place you. I think you're between one of two. Let me go through the ones that I'm discounting. So the Anderson Geneve has got a vertical grained silver tones dial with white cities and white black 24 hour ring around this style. I find it too complicated, too cold, bit off putting. I'm not sure why. The pushers and the crown are on the other side of the case. So it's a destro. I don't really know if it's designed to be worn on the right wrist or whether it's just supposed to be for comfort on the left. No idea. I just don't think it's very attractive. And know Anderson Genev knows that I'm a big fan and knows that I frequently vote for them in this competition with their more with their warmer, more artisanal pieces. This one for me just feels totally without salt. You've not picked that? No way. Order my PG Royal Oak concert Split seconds Chronograph GMT Large date. This is what I love to see from ap. Actually this is the wild concept skunk works shit that you don't get from many places. When wht wild horologists and team kind of ripped off this concept design years ago to make that incredible school watch. Possibly the best value school. The best value watch. I've ever seen in my life. The LCF888 chronograph, of which I am still a proud owner. It was because it echoed this mad creativity. Do I like carbon cases? No. Do I like it when you put colors into carbon cases? No. Do I like, like, like all this angular, crazy titanium shit? No. Do I think this watch is absolutely awesome and would I wear it? Yeah. Hell yeah. It's somehow, it's more than the sum of its parts. It's super cool, but it's a bit crass and it's not really what I think you would go for. The H Moser and C Streamliner Alpine Drivers edition is a is cool. But there's one thing that instantly knocks this out of contention for you, and that's because it's got a blue PVD coated case. And we are not fans of coatings on this show. Generally speaking, The Louis Monet 1816 is a reference to the first Louis Monet chronograph. As we learn from Sebastien Chamonte of Salita and Albus Horn, nobody really invented the chronograph, even though Louis Monet communicates his role in the development thereof. I think Sebastian's point is that there is no like single moment when we can say everything was conceived at one moment in time. But Luminate lays a claim to be an absolutely pivotal figure in the history of the chronograph. This is a nice throwback to that. It's elegant, it's on a really cool bracelet, massively underrated. We did see this one in person at Geneva, so that is a possibility for you. But I think it'll come down in your mind to the Angelus Telemeter yellow gold and the main 2001 series 5. And I think funnily enough, although they're very different watches, I could see both of them on your wrist and looking very at home there. You don't tend to veer towards yellow gold as much as I would like to if my bank balance allowed. But this is a really elegant piece from Angelus. This is really gorgeous. It's a throwback. It shows that they still can produce these timeless chronographs alongside their more experimental, forward thinking stuff. But if I'm honest, you voted for the Ming in the time only. This is like that, but in my mind, 10 times better. And I do think that when you look at these six, you know, just as a snapshot, it really stands out. So my guess for you is the Ming 20.01 series 5.
- [16:41]
A
Ding, ding, ding, ding, ding, ding. Oh yes.
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B
Get in.
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A
I don't want to say it was easy because I gave away last week that I love Ming and there's literally hardly anything I don't like that they make. But this wasn't that easy because yes, you are right that I could have gone for the angulus, whereas I do love yellow. I like every precious metal, by the way. But I, I, I don't actually. I own one yellow gold watch. But you've seen me respond to the predecess of this watch, which was the angulus monopus, which a lot of didn't like because it had just a center seconds. So that. What is this rubbish? It's a 60 seconds chronograph. But I just loved it. And you saw me in real time perceiving that watch when it was well under embargo. Showed us why I don't like this watch. It's off. The sub dials are too close to the central axis and there's too much air around it. That's a no.
- [17:49]
B
I disagree. They've, they've filled that space pretty beautifully. Now I, I would concede that they could be a millimeter further out each. That would make more sense to me. I, I'm not so much of a fan how they really huddle up against the, the hour hand color, as it were. I think they could be 1 millimeter further out, but otherwise I think it's, it's bloody perfect.
- [18:12]
A
Okay. So that's why I didn't go for that. You are 100% right about Ander Genev and I don't want to spend time on that. The Moser is beautiful. Same caliber as the Ming Aur, which obviously we know why Moser uses it for you. You went for my second pick. If the Ming wasn't there, I would have gone for the Louis Monet. And I think that's your pick.
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B
Oh, alon. Ding, ding, ding, ding, ding.
- [18:41]
A
Very finally.
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B
Very well done.
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A
Yeah.
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B
Yeah. I think you might have seen my response to this piece in real life.
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A
I haven't. Oh, well, in that case, I missed that meeting.
- [18:54]
B
It's, it's great. I took several snaps of this. You know, I'm good friend with Jean Marie, and the fact he's not been on the show over 300 episodes in is a travesty. And I hold my hands up for not pushing for that to happen sooner. He's, he's available and willing and we just need to get a recording date in the books. But yeah, for me, the Luminae is maybe the best chronograph they've done. And that's not to say that I don't like the other ones. Previously. My favorite was probably the Time to Race. I like the green one with the yellow accents. I think that's super cool. I love. I love that open work, to be fair on the chronograph. I think it looks really good and this on paper. And I can imagine that some people will be like, what you've picked up with all these wild things going on around it, like, no, it's done so well. It just feels like the past and the present in perfect fusion on the wrist. I think it's great. It wears a dream. It's all titanium, super light. The bracelet is creative and different. You can't really see from the images here very clearly the effect of having it on your wrist. But in between the satinated surfaces, there's very high polished flanges on each of the links. And it just looks great. Great. It's like. It's kind of like the streamliner bracelet, but sufficiently different to be its own thing.
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A
It is an own thing, Rob. There's only one. I have only one point of critique, and it's the only reason I didn't buy it. Should I let you guess? Or for the sake of argument's sake of rushing through this episode, I'll just blur it out.
- [20:26]
B
I would maybe guess the screws on the dial.
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A
No. Love it.
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B
No, no.
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A
Go on.
- [20:34]
B
Price.
- [20:35]
A
I've seen the images. I fell off my chair. I've always admired Louis Monet. There was never a model that I said, oh, I need to have one. I saw these images. I'm like, wow, this is like a reincarnation of an old pocket watch or hand chronograph. And then in a modern case. And these pushes, they do it for me. Everything is new about it, but it feels so old and as if it's never. It's always been there. So. And. And the caliber is stunning. Is it really manufacturer?
- [21:11]
B
Well, it's made for them by my scrape. My brain. I think that they work with Concepto. I think it's the Jacquet family, I think that does their stuff. So it's not made in house, but it is made exclusively for them to their specifications.
- [21:29]
A
Stunning. If you can get me a piece to test drive it, please do to me that favor. Yeah. Okay. So we. We are. We are tied on this one, but I think you're two points ahead of me.
- [21:43]
B
Let's just very quickly just say the price, because you mentioned it and didn't quote it. It's 31, 240 Swiss francs, which I actually think is kind of okay within the Brain brands bracket, but yeah.
- [21:57]
A
Okay, you know what, let's just briefly do the benchmark. I would recommend people that are on the fence for Streamliner by H. Moser C and Antarctic Chronograph by Chape. I can see what else beautiful high end integrated chronograph integrate bracelet chronographs do you have? I would now put Louis Monet in there. Maybe an Alpine Eagle by Chopard chronograph. And even I would. I would put it up there with a Royal oak, which is not such a beautiful caliber compared to this. Anyone you want to add?
- [22:39]
B
No, no, I. I do think that it's. It's hard when it comes to the integrated bracelet side of things to get away from the models that you mentioned. The. There aren't many that pop out that you haven't already spoken of. I think that it's an interesting one because it's. It does have that very traditional feel to it from the dial, which marks it as very different from the other ones we've mentioned. I think it's a special piece and I think they'll do quite well with it, to be honest. And more power to him. Very pleased that we tied on that. I think that's the first time that we picked differently and guessed correctly maybe so that's really interesting that we. We read each other well in that one. Let's move on to the sports category. Alon, give us a breakdown of this top six.
- [23:24]
A
Another Adam Albiquet. This time an offshore self winding chronograph royal oak. We have a Chopard Alpine Eagle 41SL cadence H8H F. And if I remember correctly, he voted for this one in one of the previous editions. So mental note to myself, this might be a pick for Rob Grand Psycho Tokyo Lion Tentagraph. Bit of an octagonal Orlinsky vibe. Ish hublot thing. Interesting Laurent Fourier this time with a full seems to be pink gold. I'm not reading out Sports Auto 79 which is my birth year. So hey, this could be something for me. Rob gift for my birthday. Now 5th runner up by Magentifloer again this time Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Ultra Summit. No idea what that means, but maybe Rob will tell me. Last one in his category this time with the newest model integrated bracelet launched at Geneva Watch days. If I'm not mistaken, the GMT sport chic watch type 7. Dear Rob, what did I pick?
- [24:53]
B
Well, you're throwing it back to me without telling me what you think I picked first. But I. I have my pick for you in mind. Okay. What do you think? I.
- [25:00]
A
Because, Well, I. Just to keep the speed up. I didn't think you go for the Audemars PK because it's not so innovative and it's a modernized version of the Offshores. And usually the Royal Oaks don't do it for you. Coming back to the Chopa at the end because I think that's your pick. You didn't go for the Grand Cycle because it's right fugly.
- [25:27]
B
Yes.
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A
For our non English listeners, especially the Americans, can you explain to them what rank means?
- [25:33]
B
It just means disgusting. Like, you know, like it's gone off. Like rotten.
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A
No, it smells rank.
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B
I mean, that. Yeah. Or taste rank or. But I mean, this thing, that color, I mean, it's. Forgive me. It's baby.
- [25:51]
A
Like.
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B
That's what it is. I see that.
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A
It is. It is. It is. It's not Havana brown. It's the chocolate brown. It's.
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B
It's baby shit, Brian.
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A
It is.
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B
And the case.
- [26:04]
A
Yeah. And. And you don't even have babies.
- [26:07]
B
No, no, I. Maybe that's why. Because I'm not a fan of that collar. The case is just. Look, I really appreciate people trying to do stuff differently. I do. But, like, sometimes there's a reason why there's so much homogeneity in watch case design. You know, because we know what works in this for me. It doesn't. It looks like a weapon, and not in a good way. So you've given me The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41SL Cadence 8HF, have you?
- [26:38]
A
I haven't given you that one, although I know you like the Laurent Ferier's Gateau Galet. Galet. They call it Cal. The Pebbleish Integrated Bracelet watches. Although I don't think you're utterly in love, especially not for that price. Because it's fully gold. Or gold. Parma, Jani, you do love. And you love your torics. Although this is a tonda, it has a knurled bezel, so it gives toric vibes. But it is called a tonda. And my second runner up was the results. I know you admire the watches and the creator as much as I do, but I don't think this watch does it for you. Okay. I'm doing a safe bet.
- [27:19]
B
So you're going for the chopard and.
- [27:20]
A
Going for the chopard and. Yeah. And you know why? It's a stealthy look. It has this gunmetalish color to it. I don't know if it has a finish. The dial is stunning. The numbers, the applied numbers and indexes are tansu t like this stealthy charcoal black, grayish on a beautiful dial with orange accents. And we know how much you and I love orange.
- [27:44]
B
Well, what can I say? I have got a big soft spot for the Royal Oak offshores. I've got to say, you know, chronographs, love them, love the silhouette. Respect Emmanuel greatly. I've enjoyed some chance to spend some time with him recently because of his involvement with Denison, a brand with which I'm also quite friendly. So it's never easy for me to dismiss those. The Grand Seiko had no chance. The Lauren Ferrier is beautiful, but I don't see the solid rose gold as particularly sporty. I think it's gorgeous, but yeah, more of a classy piece. Cermet, just so you know, is a combination of ceramic and titanium. So the case piece is quite futuristic in its composition. I love, love, love, love, love this renaissance. I think it is one of the best looking restaurances, maybe even my favorite of all time. So I, I rate it higher than you probably had in your estimation. You were right to place it second though. And you were right to choose to show about Alpine Eagle because it was my pick. Congratulations.
- [28:42]
A
Ding, ding, ding, ding, ding.
- [28:44]
B
So that puts you up to five points. I think you've gone for the restance.
- [28:49]
A
I haven't. Oh, my days, I think is the not the least. It comes in number two from the bottom for me.
- [28:57]
B
Wow.
- [28:58]
A
I I, yeah, I I It doesn't work. It doesn't do it for me. You know what I feel is I think they felt they had to go on the integrated brace of bandwagon and they got okay, stuck. I'm not saying they could have done better because.
- [29:16]
B
Oh, you are.
- [29:17]
A
No, I'm not saying that. Well, apparently you like it and you think it's the best one. So then, then I'm wrong. Right? But we know what we always say in Dutch. So I always say sales figures tell the truth in what works and doesn't work. I'm not saying it's ugly, but you know what I even think is the bezel maybe puts me off. And I don't like the 70s vibe of the case where you have these lug. It's almost a lug less case. And maybe I'm too much wired by the original pebble ish designs of raisons. I need to wrap my head around this because I didn't held the watch at Geneva Watch days, I haven't seen it. Unfortunately, I didn't make it out to the suite. And here on the website, they use renders, which I don't think it does it justice.
- [30:15]
B
Right, right, right. This watch, when you look at it from the side, when you look at that bezel, the bezel is actually concave. It slopes up towards the crystal, which then domes. So there's a lot going on. Architecturally, you're right. Very 70s case. I love it. But let me try and work this category out as quickly as I can, because we are pressed for time. But if that was your second from bottom, then the Grand Seiko's got to be in sixth position. That's got to be the last correct restaurants in position five. I'm guessing you'll probably put the AP in four because it's not very interesting. I'm really struggling. I. I suppose. I don't know. Maybe Parma Johnny third, and then maybe. Maybe you went for the show part as well. And Lauren Ferre in second.
- [31:01]
A
Almost top two.
- [31:03]
B
Wrong way around.
- [31:05]
A
Yeah. I still need to buy me a gold gold watch. This Laurent Fe is one of the most elegant gold gold watches out there.
- [31:12]
B
Yeah.
- [31:13]
A
And I love what Chopard. I love Chopard. We've said this on air many times. I love the high frequency of this piece. There's one thing. The Roman numerals Number. There's not numerals. There's just one number. There was no need to put there a Roman 12 there. There's so much going on with the eight screws, the orange, the HF. No need.
- [31:39]
B
Okay. All right. Well, you clawed a point back there at 6. 5 in the standings. Moving on to the jewelry category, one that always gets our juices flowing. We've got models from Bulgari, Chopard, Dior, Montreux, Piaget, Simonbrett, and Van Cleef and Arpel. Once again, it's your turn to go through them. I think.
- [31:57]
A
I think we can do the game here again that we shout out the. The. The. Our pick and see if it's stereo or not. But let me run down quickly. I think you've picked Bulgari with Simon Brett as a close runner up. Ironically, they're both white diamond set with green emeralds. So it's funny that green is leading here, but it's not that funny because green dials were very popular in watchmaking. So the Bulgari is a Serpenti and with a small pointy head. Actually very funny, because this seems like a design you've sketched for them many years ago. Not saying they got inspired by you, but I know it will resonate with you. The Chopard is a probably a mystery watch. It's a 3D shaped swan.
- [32:53]
B
With a.
- [32:54]
A
Little watch hidden in the middle of the body of the swan with blue gemstones. Definitely not you. The Dior is a bouquet of flowers with a pink color leading everything. Definitely not your pick. The Piaget swinging Swoitoir could have been you. It's very Copacabana 1967. Is vibe going on there. But if you were drag queen.
- [33:24]
B
Is that how you see me?
- [33:25]
A
Well, no, I said if you would have been a drag queen, this would be in your pick. Yeah, but even for you, this is a bridge too far. Although you've rocked diamonds or panties or two tones or panties. The Simon Brett. I'm picking that because it's beautiful watch. But what he did here is in an elegant way, just splash a lot of gemstones on it. You would choose it maybe because of mechanical exception. The Van Cleef and Arpel is a reissue of a late 60s, early 70s model of the Cadena. It's a link bracelet thingy. Reminds me of the 101 by Jaeger LeCoultre. So the smallest caliber they ever made in a bracelet. But yeah, I'm sticking to the Bulgari.
- [34:14]
B
Oh, dear. I'm afraid that's not correct. I did go for the Simon Brett.
- [34:21]
A
Oh, really?
- [34:23]
B
Yeah. I. Against my better judgment. Okay. Because the jewelry category is often one where we do slide away from each other a little bit. Because you're a jeweler and I'm a watchmaker. And so I tend to go for the more like boring style, I would say, in many cases. I mean, I could see myself wearing this Simon Brett. I would wear that like quite happily, this Bulgari. Although. Yeah, I see what you're saying. It's not a million miles away from the kind of more angular style that I propose to Bulgari. But it's too sort of arrow shaped for me. There's not enough form in it. I lose the snake a little bit along the way. And I. I don't like. This is like an articulated. In a one position articulated bangle more than it is the classic serpenti that wraps around the wrist and hugs tight because of all those individual links. And it's the links of all things that I like the most about the serpent. So this bangle collection, while it's very beautiful and I do like it very much as an addition to the line, it is not for me. It is not the one that I would go for. It wasn't even my second choice. There's an argument that it wasn't even the third as well. The ones that I instantly jumped to with you in mind were the Bulgari, the Chopard and the Simon Brett. Now, I think the Chopard is stunning. I think it's probably likely to win actually, because I think it is most deserving in this category. And I know you'd have respect the stone setting skill there. I think like me, you would like the Simon Brett. I think you did pick the Bulgari though, because I think that you love the brand. You love the Serpenti, how iconic it is and this model ticks a lot of boxes for you. So I'm going to say the same thing right back at you. And I'd say that your second and third are probably Chopard and Brett.
- [36:09]
A
Yeah. Ding, ding, ding. Bulgari. I loved the fact that. It's amazing six decades down the line, if I correct count correctly, even seven decades down the line, they can still make it not only relevant, but modernize or play on the theme that is ancient. I mean, think of Cleopatra. She used to wear bangles on her biceps that were snakes. That's the inspiration of it all. Besides obviously the start of the Bible with Adam and Eve and the snake. But I love how modern it is. And it is a jewel piece, but they didn't let diamonds lead here. They let green and I think the emeralds lead. So very on point. And I don't want to say they feel the pulse of the trends. Boger is usually a few years ahead of the curve. So their trend setting. I am for. For the sake of keeping up with speed. We could talk longer and I, I can rebuttal everything you said, but the Chopard didn't definitely didn't do it for me.
- [37:19]
B
Interesting.
- [37:20]
A
Yeah. At all. Too much going on. But let's jump to the next category. Artistic crafts. Chopard got dominated with an Luc Quatro spirit. 25 straw marquetry edition. Hermes with the ar. So Rocabelle de Rira. Louis Vuitton with a tambour Bushido automata Piaget with altiplano skillets and high jewelry Metiers de Arles. Funny. Could have been also in the previous category, but okay. Tiffany and company. Another bird on they call this not on a rock but on a flying tourbillon. Azure Blossom. A Voutiliner with a 28 GML.
- [38:13]
B
Difficult one, is it?
- [38:16]
A
No. You chose the V line.
- [38:18]
B
And so did you.
- [38:19]
A
Yeah. Ding, ding, ding. Ding, ding, ding, ding, ding. Let's talk about second and third. Second for you was the Chopard with the straw marquetry, and the third might have been the Hermes. Correct.
- [38:32]
B
Yeah. Interesting, interesting. I. The reason why I think it's interest easy this category is that I don't think any of them bar the Ritter line and they're very nice at all. What would my second choice be? I think you're probably right. The Chopard is very clean. It's John Power complication there with hour down there. 6. And a really cool minute hand again. I mean, Chopard is smashing it with hand design. It's just innovative and unique. Lovely to see then. I don't know. For me, the third place would have been between the Hermes and the Tiffany. If I'm being honest, I think the Hermes looks a bit too much like a Polo Ralph Lauren watch. Do you not see that yourself?
- [39:11]
A
Yeah, I feel you. It's a bit gimmicky, maybe with the.
- [39:15]
B
I think it's cool. It's fine.
- [39:17]
A
But the dial is stunning, the way it's made.
- [39:20]
B
Yeah, but I really. I've never liked these. These Louis Vuitton Sylvester Stallone watches is what I always think of when I see them. It reminds me of Monte Grappa or whatever that brand was that he represented for some time. Like, it's. It's obscene. It's. It's cool, I guess. But yeah, it's definitely not for me. And the Piaget, I honestly think, and I hate to say this about Piaget, it's a mess. It's. It just looks so chaotic. Not a fan. No, I agree.
- [39:51]
A
I agree. 100 and just a shout out to Voutilena. I love how he marries Eastwood west because again, he teamed up with the Japanese lacquer master Tatsu Kitamura, which, as you can hear, I need to read out that name. And it's mind blowing what he created for Voutilaine. And I love that Vautilaine gives the platform to this artist, but it's, It's. It's vibrant, it's a jewel. Although no gems have been used.
- [40:26]
B
All right, next one. Petit Aguil.
- [40:29]
A
Always.
- [40:31]
B
In fact, this and the challenge category are always the most interesting for me. I think that they are. Yeah, competitive, to say the least. We've got Amida, Christopher Ward, London, H. Moser and C with a smartwatch, which is cool as mad. Editions Nomos Classic Otsuka low tech champions from last year. So where to begin? Alon, Give me your reasoning and tell me what I picked.
- [41:04]
A
So difficult I think that if I have to slash 3 off, you're left with Amida, Nomos and Moser. Wow.
- [41:15]
B
Okay.
- [41:17]
A
But I think. I think you can wear all three. I think you would wear all three. Our friends behind the Mida, we love. Our dear friend Adrian Buchman designed the C12 Loco by Crystal Award and Sequence Applied Technology for the Moser Streamliner Alpine Mechanics Edition, the smartwatch. So he's behind and not so much in front of the design. Eric Giraud teamed up with MAD Editions for the MAD too. I don't think you're so much in love with it. I did win one and I did buy one. Well, we both know what we think of the World Timer and T otsuka Lotek. Yeah. There's also something you could have picked, you know what? Shotgun Amida.
- [42:17]
B
Oh, well, let me tell you what I think you picked. You don't have to reveal it before I go through my analysis, but I think you picked the Nomos.
- [42:27]
A
Ding, ding, ding, ding, ding.
- [42:30]
B
My analysis is this. Now, I like the Ameder and I like this version with the. Is it sapphire or is it mineral? I can't remember the top. Crystal Sapphire.
- [42:41]
A
The name is Open Sapphire.
- [42:42]
B
It's extremely complex. I think it's a really cool addition to the line. I like casquette watches. I mean, I like them as much as they are a niche. And by that I mean they are very much a niche. And therefore my love of them is tempered by how often I think I would really want to wear one. My favorite is the gp and I guess that's the only casket watch I would ever need. So although I think it's great that Amida are back and I think that it's really cool how this technology works with the little prism that flips those numbers up and around so they can be read on the wrist. It's really nice. But no, it wasn't my pick. It was probably fourth in this category for me, amazingly. And this is only because I think it's a really strong category. The Christopher Ward would have been at the bottom and the MOSA would have been fifth. Now, I think the MOSA is very, very cool and I feel feel like it's not available for general purchase. Is that correct? Is it only available with the other one? With the mechanical one as well or correct?
- [43:48]
A
So it was a limited edition run and all the mechanics. That's why it's called the Mechanics edition of the Alpine Race team. Got one. And I believe that if you bought the mechanical version that was a limited edition series. You either got this watch together or it was something linked that you needed access to buy, something like that. But it was a success for them. Bold move, but a success.
- [44:19]
B
Yeah, I mean, Moser is smashing the Bold Moves recently, every season we have something to talk about with them, which is laudable and progressive. The MAD editions. I really like this watch and I think that that would have probably come in third place for me. The Otsuka Low Tech is. If not, well, it's either this or the Nomos for me is the most impressive mechanically. It's super cool. And I tell you what, our friends Lydia and Vu from this watch life are going to have some split loyalties here because I think vu's got at least one Otsuka Low Tech. They were hugely in support of it winning last year. It did, did. They were totally thrilled. I was sitting right next to Lydia and she just leapt out of her seat nearly through the roof of the auditorium when it won because I. I don't think maybe she expected it. I didn't expect it to win last year. It did. It's got pedigree. Will it win two years on the bounce? I think that's unlikely. I think this is Nomos year and this is my pick as well. I went for the Nomos. You know that I'm a recent convert to the club sport Nematic World Timer. I think this is the least attractive of the executions, but I still think that it's just incredible, incredible value for money. €3,940 for in house World Timer from a beloved German maker. So yeah, I'm sorry, mate, I. I thought we were going to get each other on that one and both go for the Nomos. But yeah, I agree with you, it's the best. It is.
- [45:48]
A
And we've seen three new limited editions in Glacier when we were there together for the sixth forum. Ever since, as a nomos retailer, I get flooded with requests and I told you, remember I told your buddy Florian, please don't tell me you only did 175 and not 1,750. Please tell me you made 17,500, which obviously they could not even manufacture. But the demand is there, so the market dictates it's a winner. I truly hope that although all six of them deserve an award, Nomos gets it. Whereas on paper it looks the most boring. It is the craziest bang for Buck. You can get the challenge category, another interesting category and six very interesting watches. I know already which one you picked, but let's run through the six and actually they're very interesting because these are all non established names if I may say so. The mainstream brands first one is atelier wen with the Mille CM 2024 and then I hope I pronounce it correctly in mandarin is mu. The second one is the Bida Eclipse. Third one is Barons with the Orion one. Christopher Ward in a collab with Mr. Jones. So two English brands teaming up and how cool was that interview that we did with Mr. Jones? So if you haven't caught that one, I highly recommend it.
- [47:33]
B
They'd struggle too considering it's not out yet. But yeah. Oh.
- [47:40]
A
Okay, you guys now see how long our back catalog is and actually I would like our listeners to vote if we should go back to putting out two episodes a week instead of one as we geared back. But the collab watch that is out Here is the C1 celestial moon phase. Fifth runner up is Dennison with the natural stone tiger eye in gold. And the last one is the kurono Tokyo with the jubilee sensu aol and then I hope my Japanese is good enough. Shirai shirai. Rob, it's my turn, isn't it? And I told people up front that I know what you picked and I won't keep them waiting. It's simply because you're so utterly in love with both the denison watches and the team behind the brand that it has to be your number one pick and just for argument's sake have to choose a second one. And the funny thing is I don't think there is any real candidate for a second one for you. But the atelier when is your second one with maybe beda as a close runner up and maybe because you like Mr. Jones the Christopher award does it for you because the regular C1 you don't like at all. How did I do?
- [49:04]
B
Pretty good. Yeah. Ding ding ding ding ding. You're correct. I did go for denison. Yeah. I mean everything you said was true. And in addition to that, I think that they are just riding the crest of a wave at the moment and it wouldn't surprise me if they won because I think this category is extremely competitive. I think it's really hard to pick. You said and your second choice would be blah blah blah then you named all of them except the corona Tokyo and it could be any of them. You're absolutely right. I think if I were forced to order them I might put the Christopher ward at the bottom of the pile with the corona on top of it slightly. Then those top three, the Italian when the bedar and the Barons. I just think they're all great. And I think Barons would be my second choice because I think that that's a lot of watch for the money. And I am a huge fan of the newest atelier when the Arcana. I much prefer it to this one, but I just can't choose between the Italian and the Beda. I think they're just really, really elegant, wearable watches. So I'm struggling to know what to pick for you. Honestly, I'm torn between the Barons and the Denison. I'm just gonna go with Denison because I think it's the best.
- [50:12]
A
Ding, ding, ding, ding, ding, ding. Very good. You. You are such a fan that you don't even give me the space to express my enthusiasm for the brand. But I'm saying it while laughing, and it's semi sarcastic, but semi realistic. But in our enthusiasm of both of us, that we're like two planets, like, turning around each other and never collide in the sense that we'd never had a philosophical discussion why we love the brand so much. But what I love about it is they went. When one of the top designers, Denison, is or was originally an heritage brand that made the cases for all the top brands, including Rolex. I believe you came up with the term the name behind the brands or something like that.
- [51:09]
B
I certainly did not come up with that. I wish I was the name behind the names. No, that was a. That was a creative agency that Denison worked with, and I frequently extolled it as possibly the greatest tagline in the industry. So kudos to that agency. Yeah, brilliant. The name behind the name.
- [51:27]
A
Yeah. So you see how it works? Because I heard you. I heard you say it on the Real Time show. Because I wasn't on that recording, so I listened to every episode that I'm not on. So it resonated with me. But it democratizes pure design, and that's what I love about it. So for the price points, although I don't like gold plating, I'll forgive them because I love every Denison model, even the off catalog diamond set ones. And I love the people behind it because the moment I saw the watch, I had a brainwave for a design for them in collab or without collab. I just said it needs to be born, so please make it so very cool. And. And honestly, for me, the Christopher Ward with Mr. Jones was a runner up. I didn't pick it for here. I don't find it so much a challenger watch because I. I think in this category, it needs to challenge more on price and not creativity. It's a super creative watch. I love what Mr. Jones has done. I would even buy the watch. I don't think you can even read the time of that watch, but it doesn't matter. So hands down, Denison. Although a shout out to Bida. Cool looking piece.
- [52:54]
B
Okay, we are finally at the last category. I don't know if there's any point in me talking about the scores at the moment because it's turned into a bit of a sh.
- [53:05]
A
Don't. Don't rub it in now.
- [53:07]
B
Let's not mention it. So this is the mechanical clock category. Now, in previous years we've actually addressed this one earlier because basically nobody gives a flying. But there are, when I looked at this, at least three, maybe four, maybe five, arguably six contenders for the title. It's extremely compelling. I'm still a bit stuck on the one I'm gonna settle on. I'm torn between three. I think your eyes have snapped to one in particular. But I urge you to open up each of the windows and just have a little closer look at each of these things that's going on. Just give yourself a moment while I'm just introducing them because there's a lot of really cool stuff in this category this year. And yeah, we're very watch focused. So we do often dismiss the clocks a little bit. But I could see myself. You know what, I guess maybe the way I should make my decision is see myself. Which one of these could I see myself owning? Which one could I see myself displaying on my desk? And there is one above all that stands out in that regard for me. What we have here is Anton Suhanov with the St. Petersburg Easter egg tourbillon clock. Fiona Kruger mystery box. Forget time by Fiona Kruger and Denis Flageolet of all people. That's the man behind Debitune, the genius watchmaker who we all very much admire. Just snuck in there as a collaborator with Fiona. So congrats to Fiona. That's a real coup. Then we've got the Lepe 1839 albatross. Lepe 1839 x MB&F. Now we know Lepe and MB&F have made clocks together before, so that's slightly less exciting but no less impactful. Then there's a Louis Vuitton. Louis Vuitton Louis Vuitton Montgolfier arrow which is a hot air balloon styled clock with the basket rendered in the famous monogram pattern of Louis Vuitton's steam liner luggage. Then we have the Mickey Eleta by 21dez12me clock. It's a lot, but it's Mickey, so that makes sense. And then this is a real revelation. Trillope trilobe, as people with no French inclinations would say, les temps gratuvez, which looks like a Greek or Roman statue that's been split apart with the clock and the eyes quite creepily as the brains of this pseudo philosopher that we're looking at here. So alon a lot to pick from. I can't wait to hear what you think I've picked. And I can't wait to be wrong about what you've picked.
- [55:57]
A
I think you have picked the LE 1839 with MBNF.
- [56:05]
B
Can I just interject there? Because I want this to be fun and I didn't pick that one, so I'm going to give you a mulligan on this. I knew you were going to say that because it's the obvious one. It's the one I was going to pick until I opened up all the windows, which is why. Why I was so encouraging that you should do the same. I didn't pick that one. So have another go. I'm going to pretend that I'm going to go with that. You didn't pick that one either. Although I think that if you had thought about it less, you might have done also. But go ahead, have another go.
- [56:38]
A
Well, then I hope you pick the Fiona Kruger with Dennis Flejolais.
- [56:42]
B
Now, I think that's the one you did pick in the end. I was torn between that, the Louis Vuitton and the trilob.
- [56:53]
A
Really?
- [56:54]
B
What? Yeah. What are you most surprised by?
- [56:57]
A
The trilom. Because mechanically and the concept is brilliant. It's. It's amazing. There's only one downside. It's so narcissistic because you have to buy a bust that's your own face. And you are very full of yourself, but you're not narcissistic.
- [57:17]
B
Oh, I didn't realize that was the case. I didn't know that it was on my own face.
- [57:21]
A
Yeah, yeah. So it's a piece unique. They customize it to the owner. They make a bust According to your 3D scan of your face. They make a fragrant for you and then it mimics the colors of your eyes. It's very narcissistic.
- [57:39]
B
Jesus. Okay, well, that. I didn't read that closely enough, obviously. But yeah, no, I'm more interested in it when it's just a cool, like, Greco Roman statue. But no, that would creep me out having, like my own Face staring back at me. No. Okay. No. All right, well, do you want to tell me whether I was right with the Fiona Kruger?
- [58:05]
A
No, you were right. You were right. So. So I intellectually, I love the Trilob. I was blown away when they presented it to me. I wrote an article about it even. But I don't blame you because it was in Dutch. So I forgive you that you didn't know about the narcissistic traits of that piece of art. Um, yeah, of course, you know how much I love Dennis Flejule and, well, I've said it on air here, Fiona Kruger. Um, but it's technically the most boring of all on paper. Um, because in the end, if you buy a clock like this, you want things to happen. You want action, you want movement, you want to see things dancing, moving. So that's why I thought, well, I know you like plane trains and. And cars or boats. So that's why, I guess. But it makes sense you would consider the Louis Vuitton. I think that mechanically, Mickey Eletta's piece is amazing, but it's not your style. The dominating gold color.
- [59:13]
B
Yeah, true, but what are you choosing for me?
- [59:15]
A
You choosing as a second backup or. You gave me hints, so it's vital.
- [59:20]
B
Yes, it is. I went ding, ding, ding, ding, ding. Well done. It was Louis Vuitton for me. I think that this is just cute and beautifully executed and not too overbearing or self serious piece. One that I could very much happily have on my desk or on my shelf and enjoy reading. It's just very simple to read it. It's got all the calling cards. You know, I love transport you right to go in the direction of the airship. But the balloon, even better. So, yeah, I think it's cute as hell and really, really tight and well done. So Louis Vuitton for me. All right, that brings us to the end of our fourth annual GPHG Head to head showdown. And I am absolutely devastated to reveal that I remain undefeated by almost embarrassing scoreline of 11 to 8. Oh, dear. What happened now?
- [60:19]
A
Oh dear.
- [60:20]
B
Oh dear. Oh no. Oh, no.
- [60:25]
A
You're elusive as fuck.
- [60:28]
B
Sometimes I think that you get in your own head about it. And sometimes you read me like a book. And other times you read me like a book and somehow make the wrong pick and go for Ameda when Nomos was just sitting right there. I don't know. I think you're a masochist. I think you do it to yourself.
- [60:44]
A
No, no. You know. You know what the problem is?
- [60:47]
B
Yeah. You.
- [60:47]
A
You didn't like the club sport from the beginning.
- [60:52]
B
Four nil, mate.
- [60:53]
A
Okay, you know what? No. Yeah, it's. It's time for a drink. It's the end of the day. I'll let you bask in your glory and your win.
- [61:01]
B
I just feel bad and I feel bad about it. I don't want to win.
- [61:04]
A
I don't. You know, the win for me was the joy of doing twice an hour on this. It's a tradition. And it's also tradition for all our beloved TRTS community members to play this game in our community. So if you want to join in, send us a DM email or whatever and join our community. We have a lovely community. Everybody's equal. We don't. We have a zero asshole policy, so assholes are not allowed.
- [61:35]
B
Wait, am I banned? Am I banned from the group or something?
- [61:39]
A
Oh, quality. Quality is diminishing very rapidly. Put the outro in and let's go, Rob.
- [61:46]
B
All right, this year, for the first time ever, we're going to do some breakdowns of our choices on Instagram so you'll be able to see the images of the watches that all I and I selected. And we will save that on our IG profile at therealtime show for posterity so you can check back in. And we'll do that every year from now on so you can see which pieces we picked in each category and you can vote on who you think has the best selection en masse. If you'd like to get in touch with us about this or any other show that we've recorded or could record, then please do so via our emails, either Rob Alon or David herealtime show via that aforementioned Instagram handle. If you want to reach out to Scarlett, she can be found at scarlintheshire S C A R L I N T H E S H I R E We will be back with more interviews with the industry's finest and eventually a review of the GPHG results when they come through. We can't wait to see how close or how far away we were this year. Until then, please stay safe and keep on ticking.
- [62:48]
A
Sam.