Time To Watches: Carl Suchy

Summary

The Real Time Show: Time To Watches with Carl Suchy

Episode Release Date: June 14, 2025
Hosts: Rob Nudds & Alon Ben Joseph

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Introduction

In this engaging episode of The Real Time Show, hosts Rob Nudds and Alon Ben Joseph delve into the fascinating revival of the Austrian watchmaking brand, Karl Suchy. Joined by Dr. Robert Punkenhofer, the entrepreneurial force behind the brand's resurgence, the conversation explores the rich heritage, modern design philosophies, and the challenges of re-establishing a historical name in today's competitive watch market.

Meet Dr. Robert Punkenhofer

Alon Ben Joseph introduces Dr. Robert Punkenhofer, highlighting his multifaceted background in legal studies and the arts. Dr. Punkenhofer shares his journey from being a trade commissioner and art curator to discovering the forgotten legacy of Karl Suchy while organizing an exhibition on Austrian design at the Trenale Museum in Milan.

Dr. Robert Punkenhofer (00:35): "By organizing an exhibition on Austrian design... I discovered Carl Suchy and Cerne. I was flabbergasted because this is a brand that was three generations catering to the Habsburg court... and it was all forgotten."

The Heritage of Karl Suchy

Dr. Punkenhofer elaborates on the illustrious history of Karl Suchy, a brand established in 1822, renowned for serving the Habsburg Empire and esteemed clients like Sigmund Freud. The brand thrived for three generations until the early 20th century when family conflicts and the fall of the Austro-Hungarian Empire led to its decline.

Dr. Robert Punkenhofer (04:54): "It was started out in 1822 and then for three generations, great success, was the leading manufacturer in the Habsburg Empire... different stories around that basically made the company fold."

Reviving a Legacy

Inspired by the brand's rich past, Dr. Punkenhofer embarked on reviving Karl Suchy, collaborating with watchmaster Mark Jenny and designer Milo Schwiestein. The initial production of 20 pieces successfully sold to friends, family, and enthusiasts encouraged him to formally relaunch the company, aiming to honor the original legacy while infusing modern design elements.

Dr. Robert Punkenhofer (06:00): "After some time, I had the first 20 pieces and was able to sell them to friends, family, and fools, basically. And only then I said, why not think about really doing a company and restarting this fantastic brand?"

Design Philosophy: Bridging History and Modernity

Karl Suchy's contemporary collections are deeply influenced by Viennese modernism, characterized by minimalistic yet emotionally resonant designs. The watches feature innovative elements like rotating second discs and guilloche patterns inspired by early 20th-century Viennese architects.

Dr. Robert Punkenhofer (07:16): "I did not want to repeat history, but really to continue from where the old Suchy left... very much informed by Viennese modernism."

Watch Collections and Innovations

The brand has introduced several collections over its eight-year market presence, including:

• Waltz Number One: Celebrates Viennese lifestyle with a design language rooted in Viennese modernism.
• Table Clock: A personal favorite of Dr. Punkenhofer, fully crafted in Vienna with the help of a young female watchmaster.
• Belvedere: Features creative date displays and intricate engravings, reflecting the heritage and artistic influences.
• Vienna with Eric Giraud: A collaboration highlighting detailed decorations inspired by iconic Viennese landmarks.

Dr. Robert Punkenhofer (10:42): "My vision is to bring simply a Viennese perspective into watchmaking... everything about the watches is nicely finished."

Challenges and Strategic Choices

One of the significant challenges faced during the revival was the choice of calibers. Karl Suchy opted for Voshir calibers, a decision driven by the desire to maintain high quality and align with the brand's prestigious legacy, despite the higher costs and complexities for a newer brand.

Alo Ma Joseph (09:28): "You actually answered my question why you use Voscher calibers... you've answered my question because you reference back to where they were."

International Presence and Distribution

Karl Suchy has successfully expanded its reach to over 20 countries, offering its timepieces through select retailers such as Konopasion in Paris, ETOs in New Delhi, and Lavish Attic in Hong Kong. Additionally, customers can purchase directly via the brand's website or visit the Vienna showroom for an immersive experience accompanied by traditional Viennese hospitality.

Dr. Robert Punkenhofer (14:33): "We have more than 20 countries... or come to our showroom in Vienna and we have a nice Viennese coffee and a Sachertorte."

Pricing and Accessibility

The Vienna collection is priced at €18,900, positioning Karl Suchy in the high-end segment of the watch market. While the price point may deter some, the exceptional craftsmanship, detailed design, and historical significance offer substantial value to watch enthusiasts.

Dr. Robert Punkenhofer (15:01): "The Vienna collection we are selling for €18,900 including tax and in euro."

Host Reflections and Praise

Rob Nudds expresses his admiration for Karl Suchy's approach, particularly appreciating the brand's commitment to modernization without merely replicating historical designs. He commends Dr. Punkenhofer's artistic background and the fresh perspective it brings to watchmaking.

Rob Nudds (16:19): "He married the Austrian modernism in the art movements and married that with watchmaking... it's definitely a brand to keep an eye on."

Conclusion

The episode concludes with mutual appreciation between the hosts and Dr. Punkenhofer for Karl Suchy's dedication to maintaining a storied legacy while pushing the boundaries of contemporary watch design. Listeners are encouraged to explore the brand's offerings and witness the seamless blend of history and modernity that defines Karl Suchy.

Unnamed Guest (19:04): "The website is CarlSuchy.com... it's top quality, and I guarantee you won't be disappointed."

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Notable Quotes:

• "I did not want to repeat history, but really to continue from where the old Suchy left..." — Dr. Robert Punkenhofer (07:16)
• "We have more than 20 countries... or come to our showroom in Vienna and we have a nice Viennese coffee and a Sachertorte." — Dr. Robert Punkenhofer (14:33)
• "He married the Austrian modernism in the art movements and married that with watchmaking... it's definitely a brand to keep an eye on." — Rob Nudds (16:19)

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Conclusion

This episode of The Real Time Show offers a deep dive into the revival of Karl Suchy, showcasing how a profound respect for heritage can coexist with innovative design. Dr. Robert Punkenhofer's vision exemplifies the seamless integration of history with modern craftsmanship, making Karl Suchy a noteworthy name in the realm of high-end watchmaking.

Transcript

[Dr. Robert Punkenhofer]

Foreign.

[Alo Ma Joseph]

Hello, watch fans. This is your friendly neighborhood jeweler, Alo Ma Joseph. For the Real Time show. We're sitting here in the glass igloo in front of Villa Saracen. A time to watches. And I'm here in the presence of a big man, a doctor, Dr. Punkenhofer. Welcome. The hair doctor.

[Dr. Robert Punkenhofer]

Thanks for inviting me. Really happy to be on the show and a pleasure. And forget about the doctor.

[Alo Ma Joseph]

I will. We have here in front of us an entrepreneur, an entrepreneur who gaps the history with modernity of Austrian watchmaking. Carl. A brand that I've been admiring quite some time from afar. And I'm very happy to have here with two beautiful watches in front of you that you've collaborated with a designer that I admire a lot, Eric Giraud. Please tell us a bit about the brand and the very important heritage it has.

[Dr. Robert Punkenhofer]

Thanks. Yeah, the heritage really was what captured my attention because my doctor refers actually to legal studies and my other background is arts. So I was for many, many years, for decades, I was working as a trade commissioner and as an art curator. And by organizing an exhibition on Austrian design at the Trenale Museum in Milano, I discovered Carlos Zucchi and Cerne. And I was flabbergasted because I saw this is a brand that was three generations catering to the Habsburg court. They had clients such as Sigmund Freud, and it was basically all forgotten. And in a sort of a crazy mood swing, I decided I do my own watch. Based on this unique legacy and being used in working in the arts and creating beautiful stuff out of nothing, in my case, most of it exhibitions. I said, yeah, I do my own watch. Connected with a great watchmaster, Mark Jenny, who was a member of the Academie, the model. I connected with a young designer, Milo Schwiestein, and basically, after some time, I had the first 20 pieces and was able to sell them to friends, family and fools, basically. And only then I said, why not think about really doing a company and restarting this fantastic brand? And with the aim to carry on the ashes, Carry on the fire and not the ashes. That means that, okay, think about design language, think about the movements, et cetera, to be at the same level as the old such was. And the old such became furnissure au Roy, or, yeah, furnishing the Royal Court, because he was a very innovative entrepreneur at that time, 1822, and he was present in Vienna, in Prague and in La Chaut Faux. So already his sons, one of his sons was sent to La Chaudefonds. So we had and have in this kind of history, this Viennese elegance and this position ingrained. And yeah, now we are eight years in the market again. And here at Time to watches in Geneva, we present the fourth collection. We have done first the waltz number one, referencing of course, our Viennese lifestyle and playing around with a design code that you see across all collections now that is very much informed by Viennese modernism. That means that it's a very reduced, minimal language, but with usually an emotional kick, like a rotating second disc instead of a hand, a guilloche pattern that is very influenced by Hoffman, by Lawes, by these architects around 1900, when Vienna was really a creative intellectual capital of this world. And next came the table clock, which was for me really a matter of my heart, because everyone told me, Robert, who needs the table clock? But we were able to do the table clock all in Vienna. So with a young female watchmaster. Then we present to Belvedere and finally this year, the Vienna with Eric Schiroult.

[Alo Ma Joseph]

Congratulations. I have two beautiful watches in front of me. But before we go there, what years did the brand Karl Suchi and Sone run and when did it end until you revived?

[Dr. Robert Punkenhofer]

It was started out in 1822 and then for three generations, great success, was the leading manufacturer in the Habsburg Empire. And after, like between 20 and 30, 1920. 1930, it faded out slowly. And the reason behind it was that this was already the third generation and there were several family members that wanted to be the boss. So it was family conflicts on the one hand. And on the other hand, of course, the fall of the Austrian Hungarian Empire. Also that Therese Sukhi, the last to the Habsburg court with this official title, she was addicted to gambling. So different stories around that basically made the company fold. And yeah, for many, many decades it was lost. And after, I always say, like a beauty sleep of a couple of decades, I kissed it awake again.

[Alo Ma Joseph]

So they actually never made wristwatches, did they?

[Dr. Robert Punkenhofer]

That's interesting question, because when I started out and there was no archive left, basically. So slowly but surely I'm building up again an archive. And every month I get like historic pieces offered from all around the world. And for a long time, for the first two, three years, I believed that only famous big clocks, table clocks foremost. And then came suddenly a pocket watch into my hands. We have one upstairs in the showcase. But then suddenly, clients, collectors sent me wrist shots of. Of course, at the beginning, you know, ladies watches. Yeah, it's a lady watch also, like a sporty watch. Early on, like it was used to, you know, you convert a pocket watch into a wristwatch. But we do have in our archive wristwatches.

[Alo Ma Joseph]

Yes, but no trench war watches, field watches.

[Dr. Robert Punkenhofer]

Yes, we do.

[Alo Ma Joseph]

You have?

[Dr. Robert Punkenhofer]

Yes, we have.

[Alo Ma Joseph]

So if I remember your collections correctly, you didn't do any retro inspired, vintage inspired watches. You went straight to modernity.

[Dr. Robert Punkenhofer]

Yes, because you know, I am working in the cutting edge contemporary arts field, so I did not want to repeat history, but really to continue from where the old Suhi left and that was classicism, et cetera. Next came really Viennese modernism and that what we are trying to Update for the 21st century. And if you look at our table block, it's really a contemporary piece with our own movement. But the case, the shape is all in my opinion, super contemporary, you know, and that's. I want to be relevant today and not just repeat the past.

[Alo Ma Joseph]

Did you contemplate just starting a brand with a different name, your own name or a made up name?

[Dr. Robert Punkenhofer]

Not at all. No, not at all. Because that was really my driving force or inspiration to see this kind of legacy. And I told you I was not in the watch industry. But what I always loved all my life is to create beautiful stuff out of nothing. And there was basically nothing. And through research we went to the imperial archives, et cetera, reading letters. Just a year ago, for example, Laurent Pichotto from Colopacion, who is our retailer in Paris, he sent us an invoice with the royal insignia, you know, that we serviced the clocks in the Schlosschenbrunn. So it's a nice storytelling, but you know, no one buys a watch from us due to the fact that we were purveyor to the Emperor Franz Joseph or Elizabeth the Empress. And that wouldn't interest me too much. But it's still when we think about details, and we think about a lot of details, it informs us, you know, more from an ethical point of view that we want to be at the same level as the old Suhi was, you know, from the positioning, the price point, the quality. We are working, for example, with the movements with. And yeah, that's more this kind of ethical code from the biostat informers and not really the aesthetic codes.

[Alo Ma Joseph]

Interesting. You actually answered my question why you use Voshir calibers. Because it's not the most logical choice, especially if you're a new brand. Top quality, the price is there doesn't make your life easy. But you've answered my question because you reference back to where they were. What I wanted to ask you, do you know the brand Albis Horn, the watchmaker.

[Dr. Robert Punkenhofer]

It rings a bell, but not more so.

[Alo Ma Joseph]

Sebastian is also an academic, like you, historian, philosopher. He created a brand that reimagines history. Okay, so he makes pilot watches that. What if it was that era? And he makes that up.

[Dr. Robert Punkenhofer]

Nice.

[Alo Ma Joseph]

Okay, it's interesting, your first response.

[Dr. Robert Punkenhofer]

Yeah, that's a nice take also. Indeed.

[Alo Ma Joseph]

Yeah. I'm actually thinking you're doing something similar. Not completely. You're not making up stuff. But I always ask watchmakers, especially those that make military issues, Mil spec watches. So mark 10, 11, 13, type 20, 21. I said, why don't you make up 23, 24? It seems you follow that analogy. Am I correct to assume that?

[Dr. Robert Punkenhofer]

Yeah, not consciously perhaps, but again, what my vision is to bring simply a Viennese perspective into watchmaking. And that's very much with the tablecloth. Also with, for example, the work with Eric Giroud, with the decoration with many little details. You know, on the wristband we have the decoration reflecting the roof mosaic of the St. Stephen Cathedral. We have, for example, the Court de Vienne. When you look at the movement, it's not the Cote de Chiner, it's not the Cote du Soleil, it's the Cote de Vienne. And it's like a circling decoration that reflects the Viennese walls. You know, that we are turning around when winter comes and we start to dance at the famous Schlosschenbrun or the Hofburg or the Musikverein.

[Alo Ma Joseph]

Begs the question, why didn't you choose an Austrian designer to help you?

[Dr. Robert Punkenhofer]

We have an Austrian designer, Reiner, who is doing the table clock. And I have a couple of projects where we might work. But you know, it's also my work in. I mean, I. I'm really in the sense Viennese. No, but then again, you know, I was working always as a diplomat, so I love to be on the road. And also when I do my exhibitions, it's not just 10 Austrian artists. No, I want to have the best talents in the world, you know, and also such was back then, Braque, Vienna, La Chaudfond. So it was from the outstart, a more global vision. And now we have been. Yes, we have been sending our watches to more than 20 countries to collect us. And yeah, it forms very much. It's our heritage. The artistic, aesthetic, language. Everything, of course, is Viennese. But then again, I don't want to sit in my Viennese showroom and just think about Austria.

[Alo Ma Joseph]

Would you call yourself an Austrian brand or not so much?

[Dr. Robert Punkenhofer]

Yes, definitely. Viennese brand, I would even say, because Austria, you know, like Switzerland perhaps we have two sort of cliche codes. One is the more alpine, rustic, mountainous, snowy. And the other is this kind of imperial elegance of Vienna. So I think we are more on that side, you know, even so from for example, the dial always are very minimalistic, but then you turn it around. These are quite, I would say not baroque, but very bold movements, no, Very much so.

[Alo Ma Joseph]

For those that might not know who Voscher is. Mother company Spammy Johnny Floyer together with.

[Dr. Robert Punkenhofer]

No, the mother company is the Sandor and Hermes Foundation.

[Alo Ma Joseph]

Yeah. Which owns Parmigiani Fleurier.

[Dr. Robert Punkenhofer]

So Richard Millennium.

[Alo Ma Joseph]

So. So this is top, top, top micro rotor. The. The. The pattern is stunning. Congratulations. I did not know that. I love the walls Philosophy. I would like to speak to you for hours. You are a philosopher, sir. You're a poet. Please come on the show for a one hour episode to come back to earth to practicality. I'm in love. Hypothetically, where can I get it besides At Lolo in Paris, on Saint Honore?

[Dr. Robert Punkenhofer]

Yes. You can get it at Konopasion in Paris, but you can also get it in New Delhi with ETOs. You can get it in Hong Kong with lavish attic. And we slowly but surely increase our retail network. And the best thing of course is send me an email and they ship it to you directly. Or come to our showroom in Vienna and we have a nice Viennese coffee, a Sacha Torte and the handover.

[Alo Ma Joseph]

And what's the price of these two beautiful pieces?

[Dr. Robert Punkenhofer]

The Vienna collection we are selling for €18,900 including, including tax and in euro.

[Alo Ma Joseph]

Thank you so much, congratulations and hope to see you soon.

[Unnamed Host]

So Rob, this is a conversation I was very excited about, looking forward to and even raised my affection and love for the brand. Carl Sucri enserne Dr. Punken Hove. I am not sure if you've met him before. I didn't. I've been watching and studying the brand ever since Dr. Punkah Nova relaunched the brand three years ago, teamed up with Eric Giraud. But actually I didn't know too much about the brand, why he had revived it, what the philosophy was behind it and where he wanted to take the brand because he didn't make his life too easy as he used Vaushere calibers so high end. The prices are rather high. But I was very, very charmed by his story. And before I give you my breakdown, I'm curious what what your take is on the brand.

[Unnamed Guest]

Well, I've loved the brand for years, to be honest. I was a big fan of their initial waltz and I'm a huge fan of the recent Belvedere. I really love the detail in that watch. I love the creative way of showing the date. You know, having the, the date itself not move, but the window move around the dial. That's super cool. That's something that you don't see every day. It's again, it's Robert. Dr. Robert Punkenhofer, the founder CEO of Kalzuki, being creative within the restraints of having basic calibers now, they're very nicely decorated. Everything about the watches is nicely finished. The underside of the strap is an engraving of the Belvedere garden, which is like an incredible touch and functional as well as aesthetically pleasing. I think that there's a lot of care and attention put into these pieces. I do think the one, the one negative. And it's just a gripe that I have and I guess it's unfair because I know how much it costs to do things at this level of refinement, but the price is going to put a few people off. It's not a cheap watch. It's not an entry level brand, to say the least. It's a very special thing. I think it's something for watch lovers and people that love the story that Robert's creating and the legacy of Karl Suki and also the, the Austrian ness of it because there aren't many Austrian brands around. I mean, hammering is the one that pops to mind, but beyond that, I can't think of any others bar these two, can you?

[Unnamed Host]

I actually can't. And what I loved about his philosophy and strategy is with this 200 years plus history of this heritage brand, he easily could have tried to replicate watches from the back catalog and do a classic thing, but he didn't. And he took it to modernity. And what I loved is he married the Austrian modernism in the art movements and married that with watchmaking. And if you're wondering why, well, he received his PhD as a art curator, so he has an arts background. And I found that very refreshing because I've said it several times on the podcast. It's interesting when people from other industries or designers that don't have so much experience with watches that bring a fresh view on watchmaking, like your dear friend Anders with Archinaut, actually. So I found that very wrenching. And this is definitely a brand to keep an eye on.

[Unnamed Guest]

I couldn't agree more. I love what they're doing and I need, need, need to get Robert on the show for a full hour because he's a really interesting character. So go over to the Kazuki website, check out the stuff that they're doing because it really is top quality, and if you're lucky enough to get to an event where they're displaying, then go along. And I guarantee you won't be disappointed with the execution of the watches. The website is C a r L S u C H y dot com.