Podcast Summary: Aurora James on the Future of DEI in Fashion

Episode Title: Aurora James on the Future of DEI in Fashion
Podcast: The Run-Through with Vogue
Host: Nicole Phelps
Release Date: June 10, 2025

Introduction

In this enlightening episode of The Run-Through with Vogue, host Nicole Phelps engages in a profound conversation with Aurora James, the visionary founder of the 15 Percent Pledge and luxury accessories brand Brother Vellies. The discussion delves into the current state and future of Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion (DEI) in the fashion industry, exploring both the strides made and the challenges that lie ahead.

Defining DEI in the Fashion Industry

Aurora James begins by emphasizing the importance of clearly defining Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion. She states, “It's about creating a diverse meritocracy and ensuring a multitude of voices are represented in every sphere” (02:10). For James, DEI goes beyond mere representation; it’s about fostering an environment where diverse perspectives drive innovation and cultural relevance.

The 15 Percent Pledge: Origin and Impact

Nicole Phelps introduces the 15 Percent Pledge, a nonprofit initiative launched in 2020 aimed at encouraging retailers to dedicate 15% of their shelf space to Black-owned businesses. Aurora James shares the genesis of this movement, highlighting its rapid adoption: “By day 10, Sephora became the first major corporation to commit to the 15% pledge” (04:37). This swift endorsement from industry giants like Nordstrom underscores the pledge's significant impact on promoting economic equity within the fashion sector.

Success Stories and Achievements

Aurora James recounts several success stories that illustrate the pledge's effectiveness:

• Sephora's Accelerator Program: “We worked with Sephora to focus on women of color, leading to businesses like Danessa Myricks experiencing exponential growth” (06:17). Danessa Myricks’ brand not only gained shelf space but also became one of Sephora’s top-selling lines, demonstrating the tangible benefits of DEI initiatives.

• Topicals: Another highlight is Topicals, a beauty brand that swiftly rose to prominence after joining the pledge: “She ended up being one of the top five fastest growing skincare brands at Sephora, raising her Series A at a $95 million valuation” (09:52). This success underscores the significant potential unlocked when diverse brands receive the support they deserve.

Challenges Faced by DEI Initiatives

Despite these achievements, Aurora James candidly discusses the hurdles facing DEI efforts:

• Political Climate and DEI Rollbacks: “The current administration has turned DEI efforts into a bad word, making fundraising and sustaining initiatives incredibly challenging” (12:36). The politicization of DEI has led to setbacks, with major retailers like Target and Home Depot retracting their commitments.

• Access to Capital: James highlights the systemic issue of limited access to funding for Black entrepreneurs. She shares personal anecdotes about financial struggles, emphasizing how crucial capital is for sustaining and scaling diverse businesses.

The Business Case for DEI

Aurora James articulates a compelling business rationale for DEI, asserting that diversity leads to better decision-making and innovation. She explains, “You need diverse points of view in the room. It just makes things better” (18:32). By bringing diverse voices to the forefront, companies can better cater to a varied consumer base, fostering growth and resilience.

Balancing 15 Percent Pledge and Brother Vellies

Managing the 15 Percent Pledge alongside running Brother Vellies has been demanding for Aurora James. She reflects, “I've had to take a huge portion of my life and change how I spend my time” (07:28). Despite the challenges, her dedication to empowering other entrepreneurs remains unwavering, even as it means scaling back her own brand’s operations to focus on broader DEI initiatives.

Future Vision for the 15 Percent Pledge

Looking ahead, Aurora James envisions expanding the pledge’s reach both within the United States and internationally. “We have the 15% pledge in Canada as well, and that's 25% of shelf space going to BIPOC founders” (26:31). Her goal is to create a sustainable ecosystem where diverse businesses can thrive, contributing to a more equitable fashion industry.

Personal Reflections and Legacy

Aurora James shares personal motivations behind her DEI efforts, rooted in her upbringing: “My mom raised me with this Nigerian proverb. Until the lion has a historian, the hunter will always be the hero” (21:58). This philosophy drives her commitment to preserving diverse narratives and ensuring that marginalized voices are heard and celebrated within the fashion landscape.

Conclusion

In this episode, Aurora James provides a comprehensive overview of the progress and ongoing challenges in advancing DEI within the fashion industry. Through the 15 Percent Pledge and her work with Brother Vellies, James exemplifies how dedicated efforts can foster meaningful change, paving the way for a more inclusive and equitable future in fashion.

Notable Quotes:

• Aurora James on DEI definition: “It's about creating a diverse meritocracy and ensuring a multitude of voices are represented in every sphere” (02:10).
• On the rapid adoption of the 15% Pledge: “By day 10, Sephora became the first major corporation to commit to the 15% pledge” (04:37).
• Discussing the impact of the accelerator program: “We worked with Sephora to focus on women of color, leading to businesses like Danessa Myricks experiencing exponential growth” (06:17).
• Reflecting on DEI challenges: “The current administration has turned DEI efforts into a bad word, making fundraising and sustaining initiatives incredibly challenging” (12:36).
• Emphasizing the business case for DEI: “You need diverse points of view in the room. It just makes things better” (18:32).
• Personal motivation: “My mom raised me with this Nigerian proverb. Until the lion has a historian, the hunter will always be the hero” (21:58).

This summary captures the essence of Aurora James' insights on DEI in the fashion industry, highlighting both her achievements and the obstacles that remain. For those eager to understand the transformative power of DEI initiatives in fashion, this episode offers a wealth of knowledge and inspiration.