The Run-Through with Vogue: "Demna's Appointment Ushers In a New Era for Gucci"

Release Date: March 14, 2025 | Host: Nicole Phelps | Guests: Virginia Smith, Mark Guiducci

Introduction

In this episode of The Run-Through with Vogue, host Nicole Phelps delves into significant shifts within the luxury fashion landscape. The focal points include Demna Gvasalia’s appointment as Gucci’s new Artistic Director and Dario Vitale’s promotion to Chief Creative Officer at Versace. Joined by Vogue’s Global Head of Fashion Network, Virginia Smith, and Creative Editorial Director, Mark Guiducci, the trio navigates the implications of these high-profile leadership changes and what they signal for the future of these iconic fashion houses.

Demna Gvasalia’s Appointment at Gucci

Background and Selection

Nicole Phelps opens the discussion by announcing Demna’s transition from Balenciaga to Gucci, highlighting his nearly decade-long tenure at Balenciaga and his role in founding Vetmall.

Nicole Phelps (00:50): "Demna was appointed the new artistic director of Gucci... What will happen to Balenciaga after Demna's departure."

Virginia Smith (02:17): "The last time we had something like this was when Demna debuted at Balenciaga... he changed the way we think about fashion."

Mark Guiducci (03:30): "Demna's always had a way of looking at culture in a very interesting way, and he's very much at the zeitgeist of what's going on."

Impact on Gucci

The hosts discuss the potential transformation Demna could bring to Gucci, contrasting his avant-garde approach with former Artistic Director Sabato di Sarno’s focus on quiet luxury.

Nicole Phelps (05:05): "Francesca Bellatini's quote makes me think they identified him not just because he is a real designer's designer... but also because he does have such a fabulous sense of a dramatic moment."

Virginia Smith (05:44): "Sabato was perhaps an experiment in quiet luxury, and Demna, who knows what he will bring, but almost certainly it won't be that."

Creative Vision and Future Shows

The conversation shifts to Demna’s recent Balenciaga show and his potential direction for Gucci’s future collections.

Nicole Phelps (06:06): "He had this show a few days ago in Paris, and it was quite different... what do you think he's gonna give us?"

Mark Guiducci (06:50): "I think he’s starting something new. It was an ending collection from him, and he'll start something new at Gucci."

Virginia Smith (07:29): "Gucci is at least four, maybe five times the size of Balenciaga as a business... It’s really interesting to see how Demna's brilliant mind will navigate this broader market."

Nicole Phelps (19:15): "Demna was addressing the rumors and he says... what is important is to focus on the clothes."

The Future of Balenciaga Post-Demna

Potential Successors

With Demna departing, the question arises about Balenciaga’s next Artistic Director. Nicole Phelps suggests Nicolas de Felice, designer at Courreges, as a strong candidate.

Nicole Phelps (08:41): "I personally like Nicolas de Felice for this job... He's a real designer's designer."

Virginia Smith (09:12): "And his shows too."

Mark Guiducci (09:20): "I think that's a great idea... if they want to keep it in the family."

Industry Implications

The panel reflects on the importance of internal promotions versus external hirings in maintaining brand continuity.

Mark Guiducci (16:24): "These are really important roles that are going to people who have worked in the background for 20 years."

Virginia Smith (16:44): "It's different than the wunderkind hiring... These are people who have put in the time and experience."

Leadership Changes at Versace

Appointment of Dario Vitale

The discussion transitions to Versace, celebrating Dario Vitale’s elevation to Chief Creative Officer and Donatella Versace’s new role as Chief Brand Ambassador after three decades.

Nicole Phelps (10:39): "Donatella took over at Versace after her brother's horrific murder in 1997... What do you see as Donatella's biggest accomplishments?"

Mark Guiducci (11:18): "The return of the supermodels was probably sparked by Donatella... it's so great how she chose Dario Vitale."

Reflecting on Donatella’s Legacy

Virginia Smith and Mark Guiducci laud Donatella’s three-decade stewardship of Versace, emphasizing her influence and the seamless transition to Vitale.

Virginia Smith (14:00): "She is synonymous with Versace... there is no one who could be more Versace than Donatella."

Mark Guiducci (12:36): "Dario has been behind the scenes in a very influential way... it feels like a really nice, graceful transition."

Virginia Smith (14:15): "Donatella is iconic... it's beautiful how she carries her brother Johnny's legacy with humility."

Industry-Wide Shakeups and Future Prospects

Wave of Designer Appointments

The panel discusses the broader trend of significant leadership changes within major fashion houses, contemplating the reasons and potential outcomes of such shifts.

Nicole Phelps (17:08): "What are we in this moment of such great and profound change with designer hires?"

Virginia Smith (17:08): "Maybe some of these smaller companies could end up being some of the big players... it's all up in the air."

Mark Guiducci (18:11): "Demna going to Gucci and others gives them a fresh slate. There's so much possibility."

Optimism for the Future

There is an underlying optimism about the infusion of new creative visions and the potential for innovation within established brands.

Virginia Smith (18:52): "It's nothing if not really exciting. Who knows?"

Mark Guiducci (18:55): "It's gonna be a really incredible thing to witness."

Conclusion

Nicole Phelps wraps up the episode by reiterating the transformative changes within Gucci and Versace, expressing excitement for the upcoming seasons and the fresh perspectives these new leaders will bring. The panel underscores the dynamic nature of the fashion industry and the continual evolution driven by visionary creatives.

Nicole Phelps (19:18): "Hopefully next season, we'll be talking about the clothes."

Key Takeaways

• Demna Gvasalia’s move to Gucci signifies a potential bold new direction for the brand, moving away from its recent focus on quiet luxury towards more avant-garde and culturally resonant designs.

• Dario Vitale’s promotion at Versace ensures continuity and fresh creativity, building on Donatella Versace’s nearly three-decade legacy.

• Balenciaga’s future may see internal promotion with Nicolas de Felice poised as a potential successor, maintaining the brand’s strong creative leadership.

• Industry trends reflect a preference for promoting experienced, behind-the-scenes talent to top creative roles, fostering stability and innovation within established fashion houses.

• Overall optimism prevails among Vogue’s fashion experts regarding the future of these iconic brands, anticipating exciting developments and influential collections.

Notable Quotes

• Nicole Phelps (05:05): "Demna's profound understanding of contemporary culture... he does have such a fabulous sense of a dramatic moment."

• Virginia Smith (14:00): "There is no one who could be more Versace than Donatella Versace."

• Mark Guiducci (18:11): "There's so much possibility, and I think that is amazing as a designer."

About the Hosts and Guests

• Nicole Phelps: Director of Vogue Runway, leading conversations on major fashion industry shifts.

• Virginia Smith: Global Head of Fashion Network at Vogue, offering insights into global fashion dynamics.

• Mark Guiducci: Creative Editorial Director at Vogue, providing critical analysis and historical context to current trends.

Produced by Chelsea Daniel, Alex DePalma, and Joanna Solotarova. Engineered by Jake Loomis and James Yost. Mixed by Mike Kutchman. Executive Producer: Stephanie Karaoke. Head of Global Audio: Chris Bannon.