The Run-Through with Vogue – Episode Summary

Episode Title: Duran Lantink Takes On Jean Paul Gaultier | PLUS Loewe, Givenchy and ALAÏA
Date: October 4, 2025
Hosts: Chloe Malle (Vogue U.S.), Nicole Phelps (Vogue Runway), Cho Minardi (British Vogue)
Special Guests: Sally Singer, Duran Lantink

Episode Overview

This lively Paris Fashion Week episode goes inside three of the most buzzed-about shows — Loewe, Givenchy, and Alaïa — with insights from Vogue’s editors. The second half is a must-listen in-depth interview with Duran Lantink, the avant-garde designer making his debut as creative director at Jean Paul Gaultier. Listeners are treated to front-row anecdotes, critical takes on this season’s highlights, and reflections on fashion’s power to push boundaries.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

1. Loewe: Jack & Lazaro’s Debut Show

• Setting & Atmosphere: Energetic post-show crowd, palpable excitement.
• Signature Elements: Emphasis on leather, Spanish influences, craft, and authentic representation of Jack and Lazaro.
  • “They talked about the three pillars of Loewe… It has to look Spanish, it has to have a lot of craft and it also has to look like Jack and Lazaro.” – Nicole Phelps [02:12]
• Materials & Innovation: 3D-printed "towel" dresses that are not terry cloth, bold uses of color (yellows, oranges, electric blues).
• Accessories: Praise for slouchy, boxy bags in croc effect and suede, as well as various playful clutches.
• Atmosphere: The crowd’s exuberance led to a standing ovation, even disrupting photographers’ views.
• Soundtrack: Pachanga Boys provided a memorable vibe (“…it’s the second time I’ve shazammed the Pachanga Boys this season.” – Nicole Phelps [04:07])

2. Givenchy: Sarah Burton’s Sophomore Collection

• Vision: Burton is commended for balancing the house’s history with her personal vision; described as "ladylike but not restrained."
  • “She is not intimidated by the weight of the history… she takes from it what works, but also it’s so her own eye and sensibility.” – Chloe Malle [06:19]
• Tailoring: Noted for Savile Row–inspired precision, effortless suits, and clear feminine sensibility.
• Celebrity Guests & Community: British Vogue’s Ray, Gwendoline Christie, Jenna Ortega, and Rooney Mara in attendance — symbolizing the diverse Givenchy woman.
  • “Sarah builds a community of women.” – Cho Minardi [07:22]
• Iconic Looks: Rooney Mara’s micro mini white lace dress with a biker jacket and flat ballerinas was highlighted as a quintessential Givenchy moment.

3. Alaïa: Mirror-Box Show & Unexpected Textures

• Venue: Held in a mirrored box at the former Foundation Cartier—mirrors on every surface, dramatic lighting.
  • “So you have mirrors on the ceiling, mirrors on the floor, so there’s light coming from every direction.” – Cho Minardi [08:41]
• Design Focus: Rich fringe, giant tassels, interior-inspired details, playful movement, unconventional use of color for Alaïa.
• Trend Watch: Stirrup leggings and a new take on the onesie delighted the editors.

Interview: Duran Lantink at Jean Paul Gaultier [12:16–38:56]

A. First Impressions & Creative Process

• On Joining Gaultier:
  • “At this point I think I’m quite confident about what we have put together and what we have accomplished because it’s also a start and it’s a new beginning… I think for what we’re doing is the right direction or the right starting point of where I would like to go.” – Duran Lantink [12:46]
• Early Work During Covid: Created innovative drone-filmed fashion shows in an abandoned Dutch castle, repurposing deadstock during industry lockdowns.
  • “I started this idea of…a whole front row with drone bots that are pretending to be celebrities and journalists…” [13:33]
  • “I was thinking, okay, how can I kind of transform that and put it back into the store?” [14:41]

B. Design Evolution

• Upcycling Roots: Known for blending deadstock and branded pieces in original ways.
• Shift to Volume/Shape:
  • “Somehow I started seeing [upcycling] a bit more and I was like, okay, I kind of need to reinvent myself... So I started thinking about, what if we don’t mash it up but what if we change the form of the closing piece?” – Duran Lantink [15:56]
• Influence on Others: Humble about trendsetting, welcomes designers taking inspiration (“If other designers do something which is similar…they do it in their own ways and I think that’s fine.” [33:28])

C. Philosophy & Vision for Gaultier

• Not Literal, but Energetic:
  • “I’m really trying to catch the energy of it… For me, for instance, Jean Paul Gaultier Jr. is such a relevant label, and it was very much about youth. About now. About…urgency.” [18:22]
• Decision to Delay Archive Access:
  • “I’ve decided for now to approach it a bit like the Charlie and the Chocolate Factory. So basically, I’m not entering the archive. I’m keeping it closed for now… I want this to be a fresh start.” [21:58]
• On Being ‘Radical’:
  • “If we’re not being radical, then what are we doing?…I just don’t want to be part of a conservative society.” [24:08]
• Relationship with Jean Paul Gaultier:
  • “We don’t necessarily talk about fashion. We more talk about film or music or just fun things…. He’s just a very kind person and I like that.” [26:09]

D. Personal Reflections

• Handling Pressure and Career Milestones: Admits to being nervous but keeps perspective by focusing on day-to-day work, not the broader spectacle.
• Last Season’s Viral Latex Torsos: Playing with body forms wasn’t about controversy but about playful transformation. Surprised by the Internet’s reaction.
• On Pausing His Own Brand: Prioritizing the new Gaultier role—“I want to make sure that I create something with Jean Paul Gaultier that is good and that there’s full focus on.” [34:38]

E. Advice for Aspiring Designers [35:16]

• Follow Your Instinct:
  • “I think it’s very important that you follow your own vision and try to find help with people supporting your vision rather than being insecure about it.” [35:38]
• On Non-Traditional Creativity: He’s always struggled with rules but insists that unusual processes can lead to real innovation.
  • “Everybody always has an opinion and thinks that they know better what you are than yourself…Just go for whatever you think is right.” [37:13]

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• “It was leather 365 days a year, for every situation.” – Chloe Malle on Loewe [02:26]
• “This show was so optimistic, not just in the feeling of the audience, but in the colors, the clothes, the ruffle, the shapes…” – Sally Singer on Loewe [04:40]
• “Sarah [Burton] builds a community of women.” – Cho Minardi on Givenchy [07:22]
• “First of all, I’m not the one that invented shapes on bodies. I mean, it was there way before me… I just don’t allow myself to be a bitter person.” – Duran Lantink [33:28]
• “If we’re not being radical, then what are we doing?” – Duran Lantink [24:08]
• “I want this to be kind of…a fresh start. So I’m a little bit scared if I go into the archive I get too inspired and it becomes too much like a kind of literal copy…and now that I don’t have access to it…I’m more free to kind of twist it.” – Duran Lantink [22:44]

Timestamps for Key Segments

• Loewe Show Recap: [00:29–05:16]
• Givenchy Show Recap: [06:19–08:19]
• Alaïa Show Recap: [08:29–10:06]
• Duran Lantink Interview Begins: [12:16]
• Lantink’s Creative Approach & Early Work: [13:17–15:56]
• Vision for Gaultier: [18:02–24:08]
• Being ‘Radical’ & Society: [24:08–25:54]
• Relationship with Jean Paul Gaultier: [26:09–27:06]
• Viral Latex Torso Collection & Trend Influence: [30:17–34:27]
• On Pausing His Brand: [34:27–35:16]
• Advice for Young Designers: [35:16–38:24]
• Reflections & Interview Close: [38:24–38:57]

Conclusion

This Paris Fashion Week episode offers a whirlwind of runway recaps and creative commentary, highlighted by Duran Lantink’s candid insights into the pressures, philosophies, and playful spirit behind his eagerly awaited debut at Jean Paul Gaultier. Listeners come away with a vivid sense of this season’s mood — and the enduring importance of fashion’s rule-breakers and visionaries.