Podcast Summary: The Run-Through with Vogue

Episode: Fall Menswear Shows and Trends to Watch | PLUS What's Next for GQ
Date: January 20, 2026
Hosts: Nicole Phelps (Director, Vogue Runway)
Guest: Samuel Hine (Global Fashion Correspondent, GQ)

Episode Overview

In this episode, Nicole Phelps is joined by GQ's Samuel Hine to discuss the upcoming Fall Menswear shows in Milan and Paris, reflect on the evolving menswear scene, highlight fashion's hottest trends and designers, analyze red carpet looks, and muse on what's next for GQ. The duo delves into the mood in Milan following major brand shifts, anticipates American and Japanese designer contributions, discusses the critical transition at Hermès, and names the must-see Paris shows this season.

Milan Fashion Week: A Transitional Season

[00:36–06:12]

• Changing Energy in Milan:

  • Milan has traditionally been the "Super Bowl" of men's tailoring—anchored by big runway shows and a relaxed atmosphere, but with less buzz lately as major brands move to co-ed presentations.
  • "There's been a trend of some of the big Italian brands going co-ed so... there's a bit of a deflationary effect sort of happening in Milan." (Samuel Hine, [01:15])

• Ralph Lauren’s Return:

  • Ralph Lauren returns to Milan, presenting at his palazzo and coinciding with the run-up to the Milano Cortina Winter Olympics.
  • "The big show of the season in Milan is Ralph Lauren... it feels also like a bit of a victory lap. A well-deserved victory lap." (Samuel Hine, [02:27])
  • Ralph Lauren’s enduring appeal: stability, nostalgia, broad cultural pull, and skilled marketing keep the brand relevant to Gen Z and younger consumers.
  • "People are looking for consistency right now... Ralph has things that just feel really solid." (Samuel Hine, [04:30])

• Olympics Influence:

  • The upcoming Winter Olympics is expected to spark related events and collaborations, though not necessarily new trends on the runway.

• Armani's Transition:

  • First standalone men's runway show since Mr. Armani's passing. Expect creative continuity under Leo Del Orco, Mr. Armani's longtime right hand.
  • "It would be very surprising if Armani all of a sudden took a radical left turn... the Armani spirit is very much to look forward to." (Samuel Hine, [07:49])

Notable Milan Shows & Trends

[09:46–13:38]

• Celebrity Attendance & Awards Season:

  • January men’s shows intersect with awards season, increasing celebrity sightings and red-carpet-to-runway synergies.

• Prada’s Experimental Menswear:

  • Prada remains Milan’s centerpiece, with collections intentionally being polarizing and challenging.
  • "The beauty of the Prada experience is it does make you question what is beautiful, what is ugly, makes you question, you know, how you get dressed." (Samuel Hine, [11:08])

• Insider Traditions:

  • The GQ Global team secures a pre-Prada-show gathering at Bar Luce, highlighting fashion insiders’ rituals.

The Japanese Menswear Impact at Pitti

[14:53–17:57]

• Japanese Designers at Pitti:
  • Soshi Otsuki and Shinya Kozuka represent the ongoing influence of Japanese design in global menswear, bringing tailoring innovation and fresh energy to Milan and Florence.
  • "Japanese design has always been just a huge factor in men's fashion and menswear..." (Samuel Hine, [15:22])
  • Younger designers like Luca Magliano and Satoshi Kuwata (Setchu) are also reinvigorating the scene.

Awards Season & Red Carpet Menswear

[17:57–19:41]

• Trends Seen at the Globes and Critics Choice Awards:
  • Timothée Chalamet in Chrome Hearts: praised for his comfortable yet standout three-piece suit and custom Timberlands.
  • "He just looked comfortable. He looked easy. It fit really well on him." (Samuel Hine, [18:11])
  • Notable movement toward open collar tuxedos for men, away from bow ties, signifying a casual shift.

Paris Fashion Week: Anticipated Moments

[19:41–25:52]

• Jonathan Anderson at Dior:

  • Anderson’s unpredictability and eclectic references keep Dior shows at the center of buzz and trendsetting.
  • "The beauty of Jonathan Anderson... is because he is very, very good at keeping people guessing." (Samuel Hine, [20:08])
  • The momentum of late-'80s/early-'90s prep influences is apparent.

• Julian Klausner at Dries Van Noten:

  • His first men’s show received acclaim for its emotional resonance, particularly the finale with Lou Reed’s ‘Perfect Day’ remix.
  • "[He] really learned a lot from Dries Van Noten about clothing and emotion and how to sort of intertwine the two in a fashion show." (Samuel Hine, [24:10])

Honoring Veronique Nichanian at Hermès

[27:03–31:53]

• Veronique’s Legacy:

  • After 37 years, Veronique Nichanian is revered for her independent vision and a category-defining blend of elegance and casualness in menswear.
  • "She followed what she had an idea for what Hermès menswear should be 37 years ago... and she's basically just kept doing that for almost four decades." (Samuel Hine, [27:42])

• Grace Wales Bonner’s Appointment:

  • Bonner will debut as Hermès men’s creative director—an exciting, carefully prepared transition.
  • "She is so academic, she's a researcher... I'm also glad that Hermès recognized that you can't rush that." (Samuel Hine, [31:06])

Must-See Paris Shows & New York Designers in Paris

[31:53–39:27]

• Personal Paris Picks:

  • Rick Owens remains a perennial highlight for its engagement with societal issues and unique showmanship.
  • "Rick is just the man... you go to Rick's show and you're just like smacked in the face with reality." (Samuel Hine, [32:05])

• Louis Vuitton/Pharrell:

  • Anticipation surrounds Pharrell’s globe-hopping thematic spectacles.

• Willie Chavarria:

  • A New York talent making waves in Paris, noted for bold political statements and impactful showmanship.
  • "I think that Willy has really risen to the occasion." (Samuel Hine, [36:40])

• Emerging Designers:

  • Kartik Research and Eli Russell Linnetz (ERL) are highlighted as rising American talents bringing fresh perspectives to Paris.

Industry Moves and Rumors

[39:56–42:03]

• Versace’s Open Creative Director Role:

  • Dario Vitali praised as a strong, but likely overlooked candidate.
  • Speculation about Peter Mulier and dream scenarios including Hedi Slimane and Kiko Kostadinov.

• Exclusive Insight:

  • "To see how [Kiko Kostadinov] would reinterpret it [Versace] in his very technical, sort of very complex and interesting way, I think would be really, really interesting." (Samuel Hine, [41:28])

Macro Trends & The GQ Bowl

[42:07–44:27]

• Men’s Fit Shifting:

  • Slim fits and even skinny fits are poised for a return among early adopters, spurred by recent Gucci looks.
  • "We should not be surprised if we see them embracing the slim fit, even the skinny fit." (Samuel Hine, [42:25])

• GQ Bowl:

  • GQ’s fashion-football hybrid event returns Super Bowl weekend, building on last year’s successful Bodhi fashion show.

GQ’s Future and Farewell

[45:08–46:21]

• Leadership Change:
  • Will Welch, GQ’s Global Editorial Director, is set to depart for a Paris-based role with Pharrell. Hine credits Welch as a mentor and signals a united GQ team focused on upcoming projects.

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• On Ralph Lauren’s Endurance:
  "Ralph has things that just feel really solid. An aesthetic that has been basically unwavering and has evolved in interesting ways... for almost 60 years." (Samuel Hine, 04:30)

• On Prada’s Polarization:
  "They've always been... challenging, they're polarizing, I think, intentionally." (Samuel Hine, 10:48)

• On Hermès and Veronique:
  "She likes to say that she's her own archive. And she's definitely, after 37 years, is leaving behind a pretty big one." (Samuel Hine, 29:34)

• On Anticipating Dior and Jonathan Anderson:
  "If you could guess what those things were, he wouldn't be who he was." (Samuel Hine, 21:47)

• On Willie Chavarria’s Political Statements in Paris:
  "He really brings these bold political statements to the runway and to his shows." (Samuel Hine, 36:40)

Key Timestamps

• Milan Mood and Changes: [00:36–06:12]
• Ralph Lauren’s Victory Lap: [02:27–04:27]
• Armani After Mr. Armani: [07:17–09:19]
• Prada’s Runway Experimentation: [10:43–13:38]
• Japanese Designers at Pitti: [14:53–17:57]
• Red Carpet Menswear: [17:57–19:41]
• Paris Standouts & Trends: [19:41–25:52]
• Veronique Nichanian on Hermès: [27:03–31:53]
• Rick Owens & New York Designers in Paris: [31:53–39:27]
• Versace Creative Director Rumors: [39:56–42:03]
• Slim Fit Comeback Debate: [42:07–43:36]
• GQ Bowl & Football-Fashion Crossover: [43:36–44:27]
• Will Welch’s Farewell: [45:08–46:21]

Conclusion

A comprehensive, insightful preview and analysis of the Fall 2026 menswear season, this episode highlights the pivotal changes in Milan and Paris, celebrates enduring creative visionaries, and predicts the pulse of what’s next in fashion. For the style-interested—or anyone curious about the industry's big moves and its personalities—this episode is a must-listen for understanding the landscape heading into the big shows.