The Run-Through with Vogue

Episode: For Anna Sui and Chase Sui Wonders, Fashion Is a Family Affair
Date: October 16, 2025
Guests: Anna Sui (legendary fashion designer), Chase Sui Wonders (actress, writer, Anna’s niece)
Host: Nicole Phelps (Director, Vogue Runway)
With contributions from: Chloe Malle, Chioma Nnadi, Arden Fanning Andrews

Episode Overview

This episode delves into the intertwined worlds of fashion and family with Anna Sui and her niece, actress Chase Sui Wonders. Together, they unpack 90s nostalgia, Anna’s freshly released book Anna: The 90s, the enduring influence of vintage style, and how generational wisdom shapes creativity. The conversation is rich with tales of family gatherings at runway shows, the origins of Anna’s most iconic looks, the vibrant backstage culture of New York fashion in the 90s, and the ways family inspires and propels their creative journeys.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

Setting the Scene: Fashion Week & The Vibe Shift

• Fashion’s Sense of Anticipation
  • Anna reflects on post-pandemic runway seasons and the industry's openness to change, signaling a shift not yet fully realized.
    “I think that there's just a big change coming, and I don't think we've even seen where it's going yet.” (Anna Sui, 17:04)
• Both Anna and Chase highlight Chanel as a standout show for its blend of tradition and innovation, with Dries Van Noten also getting praise for its boldness and dynamic use of color (17:04–19:07).

Anna: The 90s—The Book & The Era

• Genesis of the Book:
  • Anna was urged by her nieces, who rediscovered her 90s pieces at family holidays, to explore her archive. Celebrities like Olivia Rodrigo and Ariana Grande have fueled renewed demand for her grunge-era classics (19:20–20:18).
• The Material Archive:
  • Anna describes her habit of boxing up every season’s memos, polaroids, and clippings—a treasure trove for the book.
    “I just would take everything after the season, put it in a box, and slide it underneath the rack in my closet.” (20:40)
  • The emphasis on physical memories—“I like to have it in my hand and think about it in my hand rather than on a screen.” (Anna Sui, 21:38)

Fashion as Family—Traditions & Influence

• Handing Down Style:
  • Chase routinely wears her mom’s 90s Anna Sui jackets and details how vintage shopping with Anna inspired her appreciation for clothing that outlives trends (22:12–23:25).
• Runway as Family Reunion:
  • Anna’s shows were major family events, doubling as extended-family reunions and celebratory dinners:
    “More and more every season, there'd be more relatives coming… Grandma and Grandpa would come, and there'd always be a big dinner after.” (Anna Sui, 24:57)

The Intimate 90s Backstage

• Organic Beginnings:
  • Anna reminisces about a tight-knit backstage, often just herself, her model friends (Linda, Christy, Naomi), and the core creative team.
    “In the beginning, there wasn't a lot of people. It was just us.” (Anna Sui, 25:48–27:09)
• Nostalgia for Rawness:
  • Fewer cameras and more authenticity; as NYFW grew, so did the chaos and commercialization, but Anna strives to keep her backstage “as chill as possible.” (27:55–28:15)

Aesthetic Origins & Changing Tastes

• Suburban Inspiration:
  • Anna’s first collection was inspired by growing up in Detroit—Seventeen magazine, back-to-school issues, and her first vinyl outfit.
    “My first show was really kind of a tribute to my love for Seventeen magazine.” (Anna Sui, 28:57–29:57)
• Chase’s Journey:
  • Early tomboy years gave way to style exploration via family shopping trips and TV/film (think: Gossip Girl), demonstrating how pop culture and family merge (30:19–32:07).

Fashion on Film—Chase’s Perspective

• Costume as Armor:
  • For her role as Quinn on The Studio, Chase worked closely with the costume designer, blending elements of 1930s tailoring and masculine touches (“clothes are her armor”) and incorporating vintage YSL and Anna Sui pieces.
    “She’s going into battle, and her clothes are her armor. So she’s always wearing pants...it’s all, like, vintage, like YSL. And all the pieces are so special. And we had a lot of Anna Sui in there…” (Chase Sui Wonders, 33:09–34:42)

Mentorship, Independence & Creative Integrity

• Mutual Influence:
  • Anna guides Chase’s fashion choices, but also feels inspired by Chase’s generation.
    “I love going shopping with you...showing her other things…” (Anna Sui, 35:12–36:06)
• Archival Treasures:
  • Chase’s picks from Anna’s archives have even influenced new collections, showcasing real-time intergenerational creative exchange (52:11–53:35).

The 90s Grunge Shift—Changing Culture

• Anna recalls how 90s grunge was sparked by both music scenes and models moving away from head-to-toe designer looks in favor of vintage finds and individuality—mirroring today’s hunger for authenticity.
  “Suddenly we were hearing about bands coming out of Seattle instead of LA or New York...I thought, well, maybe there's a chance for me now. There's something changing.” (Anna Sui, 41:16)

Today’s Style Climate—Shorter Cycles, Chaotic Mashups

• Chase points out that trends now recycle rapidly, with youth adopting chaotic, undefinable aesthetics as a response to algorithm-driven sameness:
  “It’s a very chaotic sense of style...doesn’t quite make sense and it can’t quite be defined.” (Chase Sui Wonders, 43:43–44:54)

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

Opening Reflection on Change

• Anna Sui:
  “I think that there's just a big change coming, and I don't think we've even seen where it's going yet.” (17:04)

The Power of Tangible History

• Anna Sui:
  “I like to have it in my hand rather than on a screen...It's just having that material thing.” (21:38)

Family, Clothing, and Memory

• Chase Sui Wonders:
  “I feel like it’s kind of the way to keep originality and ensure that clothes are made well and that they’ll last and they will persevere through trend cycles.” (22:16)

The Original 90s Backstage

• Anna Sui:
  “We would just be sitting around gossiping, watching Francois doing the makeup and Garren doing the hair...the models fighting over who would get their makeup done first…” (25:48–26:56)

Anna’s Philosophy on Creative Integrity

• Anna Sui:
  “You can't be everything to everyone...that's when you get lost...there’s always a solution if you keep exploring, keep trying, keep going around a different way.” (54:07)

The Lesson of Staying True

• Chase Sui Wonders:
  “Jealousy is the thief of joy...It’s very easy to get caught up in that jealousy spiral, but that’s gonna distract from your natural path.” (55:54)

Important Timestamps

• 00:00–03:00: Podcast host banter, recent Vogue cover stories, and season recaps.
• 16:32—Interview starts: Nicole Phelps introduces Anna Sui & Chase Sui Wonders
• 17:04–19:07: Debate on the shifting mood of fashion; highlights from Paris Fashion Week.
• 19:12–20:18: The genesis of Anna’s book and the 90s revival.
• 20:40–21:49: Anna’s process for archiving + love for physical fashion history.
• 22:12–24:35: Family legacy, Chase wearing/vintage 90s pieces, early runway show memories.
• 25:48–27:53: Descriptions of intimate, family-like backstages in the early Anna Sui shows.
• 28:57–29:57: Anna’s Detroit/Seventeen magazine inspirations.
• 30:19–32:27: Chase’s journey from tomboy to fashion enthusiast.
• 33:09–34:42: How costume design shapes Chase’s character on The Studio and the inclusion of Anna’s vintage pieces.
• 40:37–41:16: Anna’s start in New York; being fired sparked her business launch.
• 41:16–42:45: The cultural “vibe shift” of the 90s grunge era.
• 43:04–44:54: Shorter trend cycles and today’s chaotic fashion mashups.
• 49:43–51:58: How the 90s were more intimate and less corporate; Anna’s independent business model.
• 52:11–53:53: Mutual generational inspiration and Chase’s influence on new Anna Sui collections.
• 54:07–55:34: Anna’s advice to young creatives: find your own way, stay true, solve obstacles creatively.
• 55:40–56:50: Chase’s biggest lessons from Anna—avoid comparison, follow your path.

Takeaways for Listeners

• Fashion and family are deeply intertwined—from Sunday dinners to runway shows, Anna and Chase’s bond reveals how creativity is nurtured generationally.
• 90s nostalgia and vintage shopping are not only trends, but vehicles for self-expression, individuality, and sustainability.
• Authenticity, independence, and openness to inspiration—whether through music, archives, or each other—are integral to lasting creative success.
• “You have to really believe in what it is that you’re trying to do...there’s always a solution if you keep exploring, keep trying, keep going around a different way and taking a different angle.” (Anna Sui, 54:07)

This episode is a must-listen for anyone interested in the legacy of women in fashion, the meaning behind the 90s revival, and how creative family ties can shape—and reshape—the culture.