Episode Summary: "How Jane Birkin Became The Ultimate It Girl"
In this insightful episode of The Run-Through with Vogue, host Choma Manati engages in a captivating conversation with Marissa Meltzer, the acclaimed author of It Girl, a comprehensive biography of the iconic Jane Birkin. Joined by correspondent Sam Sussman, the discussion delves deep into Birkin's enduring legacy, the recent monumental auction of her original Birkin bag, and the timeless allure that has cemented her status as the quintessential "it girl."
1. The Historic Birkin Bag Auction
Sam Sussman's Live Coverage
Sam Sussman provides an exhilarating firsthand account of the auction for Jane Birkin's original Birkin bag at Sotheby's in Paris. Reporting live, Sam describes the atmosphere as “totally incredible” (02:51) despite the auction being smaller than anticipated. The Birkin bag, enclosed in a glass case, became the centerpiece of intense bidding that began at 1 million euros and culminated in a staggering 7 million euros hammer price, totaling $10.1 million with fees (04:05).
“It sold 7 million euros. And then all in all, I think it was 8.6 with fees. Million euros. And that means $10.1 million for our US listeners.”
— Sam Sussman (04:05)
Atmosphere and Participants
Sam recounts the competitive energy among bidders, noting the presence of “representatives” from different countries who engaged in a spirited back-and-forth, generating gasps and cheers from the audience (02:00). The event was marked by a blend of high fashion and fervent anticipation, transforming the auction into what Sam humorously likens to “our version of sports” (03:02).
“There weren't a lot of fans of Jane Birkin, but there were a lot of fans of Hermes.”
— Sam Sussman (05:55)
Speculations on the Buyer
While the identity of the buyer remains private, Sam shares speculations ranging from a private Japanese collector to playful rumors involving celebrities like Kim Kardashian, who dismissed the notion in her social media stories (05:10).
2. Marissa Meltzer on It Girl: Exploring Jane Birkin's Legacy
Inspiration Behind the Book
Marissa Meltzer discusses her inspiration for writing It Girl, revealing a personal connection to French culture and a longstanding admiration for Jane Birkin's multifaceted persona. Her time spent in Paris and her academic background in French literature fueled her passion to uncover the layers of Birkin's life beyond her public image.
“I fell in love with Serge Gainsbourg and Jane Birkin's music... There's a lot under the surface.”
— Marissa Meltzer (27:15)
Research and Discoveries
Marissa details her extensive research process, which included interviewing close associates, exploring archives, and visiting significant locations such as Birkin's former residences. A pivotal moment in her research was accessing Jane Birkin's personal diaries, offering an intimate glimpse into her thoughts and emotions from a young age.
“There are diaries that started when she was a literal child... personal thoughts and real-time reflections.”
— Marissa Meltzer (31:11)
Jane Birkin's Authenticity and Style
The conversation highlights Birkin's effortless style and authentic approach to life, which transcends fleeting fashion trends. Marissa emphasizes how Birkin's comfort and simplicity in her fashion choices, such as her preference for minimal makeup and signature bangs, contribute to her lasting influence.
“She was comfortable, not a big makeup person... fully herself.”
— Marissa Meltzer (38:09)
Defining the "It Girl" Phenomenon
Marissa and Choma explore the essence of being an "it girl," asserting that it stems from a blend of multifaceted talents, authentic presence, and the ability to capture the zeitgeist. Jane Birkin epitomizes this archetype through her diverse pursuits in acting, singing, and fashion.
“The truest it girls cannot be defined by one profession... multifaceted.”
— Marissa Meltzer (33:41)
3. The Impact of Social Media and Modern Fashion Trends
Social Media’s Role in Birkin’s Enduring Fame
Marissa discusses how social media has amplified Jane Birkin's legacy, introducing her to new generations and maintaining her relevance in contemporary culture. Platforms like TikTok and Instagram have facilitated a resurgence of interest in Birkin’s style and personality.
“She keeps being discovered by new generations... flatten who she is, but biographies fill in the blanks.”
— Marissa Meltzer (44:39)
Evolution of French Girl Style
The dialogue shifts to the modern interpretation of French girl style, examining its authenticity and how it has been influenced by global fashion dynamics. Marissa notes that while social media often misrepresents French style, the true essence lies in a cohesive and thoughtfully curated wardrobe.
“People in Paris shop thinking about an outfit and a look in a way that Americans do not.”
— Marissa Meltzer (50:10)
4. Personal Reflections and Anecdotes
Hosts Share Their Experiences
Choma and Sam intertwine their personal experiences with the broader narrative, discussing recent visits to cultural events like theater performances and film screenings. They reflect on how these experiences parallel the themes of authenticity and effortless style embodied by Jane Birkin.
“I love how Chloe's mom has her Bergen bags and she's doing paintings.”
— Chloe Mel (26:22)
Balancing Legacy and Personal Identity
Marissa opens up about the challenges faced by Birkin's daughters in forging their own identities while honoring their mother's legacy. This conversation underscores the delicate balance between maintaining a family legacy and pursuing individual passions.
“It's so stressful... having to follow one of my parents.”
— Marissa Meltzer (53:28)
5. Conclusion and Final Thoughts
As the episode wraps up, Marissa Meltzer expresses her gratitude and excitement for spreading Jane Birkin's story, highlighting the timeless relevance of Birkin's life and style. The hosts commend her work for providing a nuanced and comprehensive portrayal of an icon whose influence continues to resonate in the worlds of fashion and beyond.
“I have to say, she just didn't seem to try hard about anything.”
— Choma Manati (47:18)
Notable Quotes with Timestamps
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Sam Sussman (04:05): “It sold 7 million euros. And then all in all, I think it was 8.6 with fees. Million euros. And that means $10.1 million for our US listeners.”
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Marissa Meltzer (27:15): “I fell in love with Serge Gainsbourg and Jane Birkin's music... There's a lot under the surface.”
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Marissa Meltzer (33:41): “The truest it girls cannot be defined by one profession... multifaceted.”
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Marissa Meltzer (44:39): “She keeps being discovered by new generations... flatten who she is, but biographies fill in the blanks.”
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Choma Manati (47:18): “I have to say, she just didn't seem to try hard about anything.”
This episode offers a profound exploration of Jane Birkin's influence and the elements that make her an enduring symbol of effortless elegance and authenticity. Marissa Meltzer's It Girl provides a detailed narrative that complements the rich discussions, making it a must-listen for enthusiasts of fashion history and iconic personalities.
Timestamps Reference:
- 02:51 - Sam describes the auction atmosphere
- 04:05 - Sam reveals the final auction price
- 05:55 - Sam comments on the audience's preferences
- 05:10 - Speculations on the auction buyer
- 27:15 - Marissa discusses her inspiration
- 31:11 - Marissa on Jane Birkin's diaries
- 33:41 - Definition of "it girl"
- 38:09 - Birkin's authentic style
- 44:39 - Social media's impact on Birkin's legacy
- 47:18 - Hosts' reflections on authenticity
- 53:28 - Marissa on balancing legacy and identity