
Loading summary
Chloe Mel
This episode of the Run through is brought to you by eBay. EBay. It's the place to fall in love with new, pre loved vintage and rare fashion over and over again. Your favorite designers expertly authenticated. Yes, ebay. Things people love. I'm Chloe Mel.
Choma Menardi
And I'm Cho Menardi. And this is the Run Through. And we are so excited because this episode is one we've been looking forward to forever.
Chloe Mel
Indeed. And we were so delighted by all of the questions we received for today's advice and mailbag episode. We got so many amazing, lovely messages and a lot of queries. And someone even sent us a video of the wallpaper that they made out of old Vogue covers for their bathroom.
Choma Menardi
Oh, so cool. I think it's a genius idea.
Chloe Mel
I know. It really is. And we also invited two of our wonderful friends and colleagues in the office to answer some questions with us. First, let's talk about the news of the week. Choma. I mean, I'd be curious what your take from across the pond was on the inauguration proceedings over here.
Choma Menardi
A heavy sigh. I was actually on the plane as it was happening and sort of landed to a flood of different news stories surrounding the inauguration. And it just felt like we had flipped the switch and stepped into this new era in such a strident way. You know, I think it feels like we're entering a completely different political climate. I mean, Trump kind of comparing himself to the Messiah was, I mean, jaw dropping for me. It felt really sad, actually. It just didn't feel like a vision of America that I can relate to. Yeah, but I'm not American, so I obviously took took this from a very European standpoint. And I know there are lots of people who think that this powerful international stance and his way of thinking and his very decisive approach is like, you know what they want. But I found it quite upsetting.
Chloe Mel
Something I learned a couple weeks ago is that it is in the Constitution that the inauguration always falls on January 20, no matter what day of the week it is. I found it to be sort of adding salt to a wound that that fell on Martin Luther King Day this year. I thought we did some really nice pieces around Martin Luther King Day, especially Leah Fae Cooper did a wonderful piece on the men of Morehouse College. They all dress up very. I saw that, Natalie. And wear their finest looks on MLK weekend. That's Morehouse's Dr. King's alma mater. So I thought that was a really nice pie that we did. I will say, though, Vogue is first and foremost a fashion news Establishment fashion spoke very loudly on Monday.
Choma Menardi
It did, didn't it? There was so much to report on.
Chloe Mel
There was a lot to report on. To me, it was a reminder of when people say, oh, Vogue just covers fashion, it's like, well, fashion conveys a lot and fashion speaks volumes. There have been across different publications, some really interesting, thoughtful analyses of what first lady Melania Trump wore, what other members of the family wore. Rachel Taschen in the Washington Post wrote that they're putting the fashion and old fashioned. And I do think there was this very retro approach to sort of creating an image. And Jose Crias Unzueta wrote a really insightful piece on the business of dressing Melania Trump and comparing what that looks like today versus eight years ago. And I think what all my group chats were and my Vogue slacks were lit up about was all of the designers who chose to dress the first family and the second family. And Usha Vance, Vice President J.D. vance's wife sort of came out as someone everyone was looking at. She wore a sort of putty pink Oscar de la Renta skirt suit.
Choma Menardi
And she wore a Sergio Hudson coat as well, I think.
Chloe Mel
Yes. But apparently she purchased that. He did not dress her. And we talked about that. It's like, what do you do as a small brand if Usha Vance purchases a piece of your clothing and wears it and everyone identifies it? Do you send out a press release and lean into this high profile moment? Do you sit back? Do you let people know it was purchased and you weren't involved there? It does raise a lot of thorny conundrums. Same was true of Adam Lippis, who's a independent New York designer who is very well liked by the fashion and media establishment, very well reviewed on Vogue Runway. And he designed Melania Trump's outfit, which was a navy sort of frock coat and most dramatically, a sort of Carmen Sandiego dark winged duck hat that obscured most of her face. He did not design the hat. Eric Javits, a Lower east side milliner, designed the hat. But it was a very striking look that really was conveying. I don't know, in a way, it was like the formal version of I don't really care, do you? Because it's like you're not really.
Choma Menardi
Don't even try and read me. Don't, don't interpret anything. Don't expect a closeness with my husband because she was definitely making sure that he could not reach in for a kiss or anything. It just conveys like, don't come close, like, stay away. It just Made her seem extra icy.
Chloe Mel
Yes. You know who didn't seem icy? Lauren Sanchez. And her.
Choma Menardi
Not icy at all. Even though she was wearing white.
Chloe Mel
She was wearing a new spin on suffragette white, which was a McQueen pantsuit with a lacy bra very much revealed under the blazer. That was the shirt was the bra top. You know, I will say I went back and looked at the original Sean McGurr for McQueen look that this was from. And it looks. So there's a different vibe on the Runway, but. Than in the rotunda. But gotta respect someone's commitment to their look because it was really like, inauguration dress codes are not for me and I'm going to wear this.
Choma Menardi
You gotta respect the chutzpah.
Chloe Mel
Yeah. But yes. And all of the entire Arnault family was there in full force looking chic and buttoned up and like they were getting on board to avoid future tariffs. Ivanka wore a Dior sort of wicked emerald green skirt suit by Dior with a Lady Dior handbag and a. I don't know if you call it a fascinator. What is that type of hat? It wasn't really a fascinator. Yeah. It wasn't quite landing for me. And then that evening at the inaugural ball, Ivanka went for a big cosplay, splashy moment with Givenchy dressing her in a dress that was a recreation of the dress Hubert Givenchy made for Audrey Hepburn for her costume in Sabrina. Now, of course, you know, the brands were like, we can confirm it's Givenchy, but that's on background. And Sarah Burton did not design it. And so it's like only the atelier designed it. So everyone's sort of figuring out how they're navigating this situation press wise.
Choma Menardi
I think all of this kind of throwback, old Hollywood glamour, 1950s kind of housewife stuff is hitting in totally the wrong way for me. It's bringing back all these old world values, like you said, and I find it quite scary. But there were moments of levity. I really loved Hannah's piece on justice. Ketenji Brown cowrie shell necklace. It was like, you know when you're just looking and you're just thinking, like, how would I feel to be in a room like this? Like, how would I feel? Yeah. To be there and how would I dress to kind of signify my sort of sense of resistance to what's going on? And I think she nailed it. You know, it was so special and communicated everything that I needed to communicate on MLK Day, because, like, I'm sure She would have much rather have been somewhere else celebrating and honoring Martin Luther King's birthday rather than there. It just got me thinking, like, how you show up in spaces like that now.
Chloe Mel
Because also, speaking of showing, we need.
Choma Menardi
To see a rejection of this. Yeah, we need to see a rejection of this whole aesthetic, in my opinion.
Chloe Mel
Bishop Marianne Budd is the female bishop who led the church service before the inauguration. And her speech has gone quite viral as she made a very direct plea to President Trump for mercy for people who are endangered by the threats that he is putting forward and is hoping to carry through with in his first few days in office and beyond. And she felt like an inspirational figure on an otherwise bleak day in Washington.
Choma Menardi
Oh, my God. She literally made me cry.
Chloe Mel
Aw.
Choma Menardi
I just thought, I mean, you know, you just think, like, he erased so many people with, like, one fell swoop in his executive orders and in the sort of declarations that he made in his speech. He erased a lot of people. He completely made a lot of people really vulnerable people, like, unimportant and dismiss. It dismissed, you know, a whole swath of people. And it just hearing her just kind of sort of really, in a dignified and super eloquent way, just remind him and the other people in his administration that there are a lot of people who his, you know, executive orders and the policies that he's pushing for, they're going to affect. They're going to massively disrupt and hurt them, you know, and I think she did it in a way that was so dignified and so measured and. Yeah, and I thought it was very brave of her to do that. I mean, he was literally front row speaking directly to him, you know, and what a, what an amazing, like, way to use that moment.
Chloe Mel
So, Choma, I saw a New York Post headline about how Prince Harry is settling with Rupert Murdoch's newspapers about the phone tapping scandal. And I feel very personally invested in this because I loved, as, you know, Prince Harry's memoir, but I also don't really understand this newest thing. Like, is this a big deal in the British press right now?
Choma Menardi
I mean, I don't feel like the tabloids are really going deep on it because they have completely turned against Harry and, and Meghan. And what I'm seeing more of is headlines about how many people in the. Or some of the tabloids here think that America is also turning on them.
Chloe Mel
Oh, yes, because of the Vanity Fair. The dishy Vanity Fair right around cover story.
Choma Menardi
Yes, yes, yes, yes. So they're more focused on that. So this news has not been to me as, like, front and center as others, but it's a big. I think it's a really big deal.
Chloe Mel
Well, Elise Taylor has published an explainer. If anyone has any questions at this.
Choma Menardi
Point, their personal life has been so dragged and every detail of it has been, you know, dissected on all sides that I think we've all had enough. And I think that was probably a wise decision on his part.
Chloe Mel
Choma, tell us about your schedule the next few weeks. It's Men's Fashion Month right now. We're recording this on Wednesday afternoon. And Louis Vuitton by Pharrell was last night. Have you had any strong takeaways from the men's shows or what are you. Are you going to couture? What are you anticipating from couture?
Choma Menardi
I'm. I'm. It's so funny. I just got off the call with Adam Badawi, who the head of GQ here in the uk and he was very, very excited about Pharrell's show. And I took a quick look at it, and I loved what I saw. And he said it was at the Louvre, which is traditionally where the women's show takes place, where Nicolas shows. So this was a new space for Pharrell. Pretty sure. I don't think he's shown at the Louvre before. And I loved what I saw. I loved what I saw. I loved, like, some of the knits, and I loved all the sort of grandparish sweaters underneath suits. And it felt. It felt very cool. I don't have any hot takes right now, but I am headed to the couture shows on Sunday, so I'll see Schiaparelli first thing in the morning and then Dior. So I'm excited to be. To be back at the shows. I think it's always. Couture is always, like, kind of a really fun. A fun fashion week to do because the schedule's much more gentle and the shows feel a little bit more intimate and rare and special. If I had to say what my highlight is going to be for couture, definitely Alessandra Michele's first couture collection for Valentino.
Nicole Phelps
Yes.
Chloe Mel
That's a big news moment.
Choma Menardi
That's what I'm looking forward to most this week. And also, like, just catching up on all the Paris goss. Cause we all know that there's been a million changes. Everything's still in flux. And I hope to report back with some updates or something. Some juice.
Chloe Mel
Speaking of which, I interviewed the adorable Bob Mackie last night at a screening of the new documentary about him. And I think of him as like the father of modern red carpet dressing because he really just sort of leaned into. He invented the naked dress for cherry. He really leaned into sequins, feathers.
Choma Menardi
And didn't he sketch the original Marilyn dress?
Chloe Mel
I was hoping you'd bring that up, Choma. That was actually one of my questions for him that was asked that I not ask about what he thought about Kim Kardashian re wearing the dress. And then an audience member asked him about it and he said, well, you know, she's a nice Armenian girl, but I just think that dress should probably be in a museum.
Choma Menardi
And it was sort of very diplomatic of him.
Chloe Mel
The run through will be back soon. Answering your questions. When your love for sneakers has you chasing limited editions, classics and rare finds, go to ebay, Score your once in a blue moon pair and check off your wish list for those fresh kicks. Get authentic streetwear and expert verified accessories. Think timeless watches, vintage designer bags, and more jewelry than you can wear. Ebay the new place for new pre loved vintage and rare fashion. Yeah, ebay, things people love. And we're back. We have quite a few messages to get through, so let's go.
Choma Menardi
So we received a ton of emails in Instagram DMs asking us about how we got our jobs at Vogue, which is an excellent question. So this email in particular is from Serena. She said, as an aspiring fashion editor myself, I would love to know your Vogue stories. If I'm remembering correctly, you all shared bits about your interview with Anna outfits. Oh, we love, we love sharing that part. But I would love to know your journey to Vogue and how your relationship with fashion and the industry at large has changed over time. And to answer this question, we wanted to invite Nicole, host of the Tuesday show, to answer.
Jose Criatas Unzueta
Hi, Choma. Hi, Chloe.
Chloe Mel
Yay.
Choma Menardi
I want to know this. Actually, I don't think we've ever talked about this.
Jose Criatas Unzueta
I was an editor at Elle magazine when Janet Ozzard left Style.com, and she called me up and said, do you want my job? And I had by that time fallen in love with Style.com, it was my bible. I was reading Sarah Mower's reviews like they were the, you know, the word from on high. And. And so I interviewed with Anna because At the time, Style.com was the online home of Vogue and W magazine. And I worked@style.com for a long time. And when Conde Nast decided to try to make style.com an e commerce site, the archive that we had built for 15 years, came over onto vogue.com and I've been at Vogue ever since then.
Choma Menardi
Were you writing reviews at Elle?
Jose Criatas Unzueta
No, no, I was writing Fashion News. I remember the first season because the first season would have been a February season. And sometime, you know, that spring, waking up in the middle of the night, literally, you know, sitting up in bed and thinking, oh my goodness, those reviews are gonna be on the Internet for the rest of time. And really feeling the overwhelming sense of responsibility about that.
Chloe Mel
The ghost of Romeo.
Choma Menardi
I have to say, like reviewing is like. It's like the Olympics of, of this industry, of this office, because you just.
Chloe Mel
It's so hard.
Choma Menardi
So hard.
Chloe Mel
I don't know how you just do it.
Choma Menardi
I remember the first season I did it. I mean, like, Nicole is the most efficient person, writer, editor, I know. I don't know how you write as many reviews as you do.
Jose Criatas Unzueta
I write a lot less than I used to.
Choma Menardi
Not every review is equal.
Chloe Mel
Right, but you're air traffic controlling all.
Jose Criatas Unzueta
We also used to write very differently, you know, even 10 years ago. But going back further than that, our reviews were, were much, much shorter. And now they're, they can get really long. Especially from some of our contributors.
Chloe Mel
I want to know, did you always want to be in fashion and did you start in fashion media or did you start in more traditional news media?
Jose Criatas Unzueta
I studied women's studies and English in college and moved to New York after college because I wanted to be in magazines. And I wound up doing a PR job for a couple of years not in fashion.
Choma Menardi
This I did not know.
Jose Criatas Unzueta
And I really didn't like it.
Choma Menardi
I bet you hate it.
Jose Criatas Unzueta
I am like, do not, do not put me. I don't want to be making the cold calls. I guess I'm okay to be getting some cold calls.
Choma Menardi
What was the pitches that you had to make?
Jose Criatas Unzueta
I worked at this company called Voyager, which was actually co owned by the people who went on to sort of run the Criterion Collection. But in any case, we made CD ROMs, like really high brow CD ROMs. Art Spiegelman was in there, CD ROMs in the building because we did a CD ROM of Mouse, for example.
Choma Menardi
I studied that in college and, but.
Jose Criatas Unzueta
I was not good at pr and thank goodness my ex boyfriend's aunt worked at W magazine. And that's how I got my, my, my job at Womenswear Daily and nw. So one of my first assignments at Women's Wear, once I moved on from being an assistant, was to do reviews of New York Fashion Week.
Choma Menardi
Wow, so you'd Already done so a little bit. Yeah.
Jose Criatas Unzueta
You know.
Chloe Mel
All right, Choma go.
Choma Menardi
Who's next? Choma Mine is so long winded. How do I make it short?
Chloe Mel
All right, why don't I do Choma's and you can edit it and annotate it. Shoma came to the U.S. yes. 15 years ago.
Choma Menardi
20.
Chloe Mel
20 years ago. And started working at the Fader.
Choma Menardi
No. Started working at a magazine that no longer exists called Trace, which was kind of like a style magazine. Then I went to work at the Fader, but I had a newspaper background. My first job in journalism was at a newspaper where the Evening Standard magazine.
Chloe Mel
Ooh, lovely.
Choma Menardi
But the first magazine, the first kind of. It was a weird, long winded way about how I got to the US Because I wrote a letter to the editor of this now defunct amazing style magazine called Trace. And it was like collage, it was like an art piece. And then he kind of scanned my letter and printed it in like full page in the magazine. And then I was in New York and I cold called him from a payphone. And then I went to his office and he offered me a job. He saw some talent, he saw some raw talent. So that's how I got to the States, which is a big leap for me at the time. And then I met Mark Colgate for a friend who is beloved colleague. And so that was kind of my first interaction with anyone from Vogue. And I just thought, oh, this he's such a nice guy. Like, I. It made the idea of working at Vogue less scary. And then actually I was looking for a job. I was at the theater and one, one of our dear friends, Hamish Anderson, who was editing Men's Vogue at the time, he said, you should apply for a job here. And I was like, no way, I never get a job here. And then he was like, I'll talk to Sally Singer. And I was like, ooh, scary. And then he talked to Sally Singer. And the HR department didn't think I was Vogue material. That was their feedback.
Jose Criatas Unzueta
I think I had the same experience.
Choma Menardi
Yeah. But then another job came up. So Mark was like, hey, come on in. So I was remembering, very flustered at the second interview. And I've told this story a million times, but I wore jeans because I. I didn't have any time to prepare. I was told on Friday morning to come in and thank God I was at least had a blazer. I wasn't like in like sweats.
Chloe Mel
And you met with Anna?
Choma Menardi
I met with Anna twice, yeah. And I remember going through an issue of Giving, like, feedback on an issue.
Chloe Mel
Oh, wow. Did she ask you to do that?
Choma Menardi
Yeah. And she was, like, fascinating. And there was some layout that was like, I really didn't like it. And I was like, I don't know. And she was like, I totally agree with you about that layout. And I was like, oh, my God. Yay. So that was interesting. That's how I got here.
Chloe Mel
Wow. Whenever young people ask me about how to get into fashion or media, my biggest piece of advice is always take the meeting. I also say that to single friends who don't want to go on dates. But, for example, I was working at the New York Observer. First I wrote about real estate because that was the open opportunity, even though I knew nothing about real estate. And then I was writing lifestyle features and profiles. And then I was doing stories for the Style at the Times, and there was an opportunity to interview for a job at Vogue. And I thought, I don't particularly think of myself as a fashion person. I love fashion, and I. I love seeing people who have fun getting dressed. But I thought, well, it's interesting, and I should just sort of take. Take the meeting. And what I was most impressed by. Cause I. At Vogue, when you interview, you meet a lot of people. It's like, oh, my God, the seven rings of hell going through, like. And I was just so impressed by how everyone I met with was. And I met with Anna, and no one told me the memo that Anna doesn't like black. I thought it would be appropriate. I wore a little like a sort of a short black dress, a Dion Furstenberg dress with a collar, sort of polo collar, and a striped Philip Limb blazer that I still have.
Choma Menardi
Oh, there's some. That's something graphic.
Chloe Mel
It was graphic. And then I had my interview with Anna, and she said, what do you like to do in your free time? Which you're supposed to say, like, tennis and theater. And I said, I like to sleep and cook. Lori Jones, who was the Love Laurie, inimitable managing editor at the time, and really one of the reasons I was so seduced by Vogue, because she was such a. The towering figure. She called me after my interview and said, what did you say to Anna? And I told her, and she said, oh, my God. And I heard her yell to her husband in the other room, fred. Chloe told Anna she likes to cook and sleep. She said to me, and she was like, honey, she doesn't do either of those things. So then I had to re. Interview. And Lori also said, she doesn't know if you're visual enough. So I came in with a literal scrapbook with like collages, because I do. I used to. Not anymore, because I have no time, but I used to make what apparently TikTok now calls junk journals, but, like, where you're sort of scrapbook journals. And so I brought in like a fashion scrapbook journal I made and was like showing her, and she was like, take this off my pristine desk and go forth.
Choma Menardi
I love this story. I didn't know anything about this. I didn't know anything about this. Okay, so we get a ton of questions about what a typical day in the office looks like and what our daily routines are. And a listener named Mary asked, what time does your alarm go off? And what is your bedtime?
Chloe Mel
I do Nicole's schedule.
Choma Menardi
Do you drink coffee or tea?
Jose Criatas Unzueta
I. Lately I've been setting my alarm a little bit earlier, some somewhere between 6 and 6:15. I make my son's breakfast and lunch even though he's a junior.
Choma Menardi
I love school.
Jose Criatas Unzueta
I love that I should really be training him.
Choma Menardi
What does he want training him to do? What does breakfast entail?
Jose Criatas Unzueta
Oh, nothing like toast with peanut butter and banana slices and a peeled clementine or something. And I've also been trying to go to bed earlier to get those full eight hours. So I like to have dinner, clean up, and, you know, close the door to my bedroom like after nine and go read for an hour or so.
Chloe Mel
So do you watch any tv?
Jose Criatas Unzueta
I watch tv, yes. But I'm trying to not, you know, not to be on screens, you know, with that thing that we're all supposed to do.
Choma Menardi
You read so much as well. What are you reading right now?
Jose Criatas Unzueta
I just finished the Didion Babbitts book, which is super dishy. And I read that book, Orbital, which is about the astronauts on the space station, which was so poetic.
Choma Menardi
Is that the one that won the.
Jose Criatas Unzueta
It won the Booker Prize.
Choma Menardi
Yeah. Yeah, that was interesting.
Jose Criatas Unzueta
It's a slim little book. It's very easy to read.
Choma Menardi
Oh, cool, I need to read that.
Chloe Mel
Okay, so then what do you eat for breakfast?
Jose Criatas Unzueta
I eat my breakfast at the office. I have a yogurt, a plain yogurt with granola, and my mom shout out to my mom, Nance Phelps. She makes the world's best granola and at Christmas time she gave me a big container of it, so.
Chloe Mel
Wow. What time do you get to the office?
Jose Criatas Unzueta
I've been getting to the office really early. This early bird recently too. Yeah, I like to be here definitely by 8:30, but between 8 and 9 is like, the best time at the office. Cause there's nobody here who's sort of, you know.
Choma Menardi
I know. It's true.
Jose Criatas Unzueta
And it makes me feel better about wanting to leave at five in the last year or so. The days are ending earlier at Vogue, which I never thought would happen.
Chloe Mel
Hmm.
Choma Menardi
Yeah. It's true.
Jose Criatas Unzueta
I think it's because there are moms here now, and moms have things to do, you know, with their kids. And it's much better.
Chloe Mel
Yeah.
Jose Criatas Unzueta
Creating a nice, nice culture that I'm appreciating.
Chloe Mel
Yeah. All right, Choma, what's your daily schedule?
Choma Menardi
I'm not an early bird, so I'm actually in the office later. And I tend to get to the office a bit later. My alarm.
Chloe Mel
We need specifics.
Choma Menardi
Okay. My alarm. I'm trying to sleep more too. So I try. And, you know, we're all obsessed with the Oura ring. You know, I have. I'm always trying to get like a crown every day. My. Or a 90% or whatever it is.
Chloe Mel
Crown is a check mark to tell you that you slept well on the aura ring. If people are not familiar, Shoma's not getting an actual crown monarchist. She may be.
Choma Menardi
No, no, no. I didn't get my crown today. Cause we had to be in the office very early. So I usually. My alarm usually goes off at 7:37, 37:38. I live quite close to the office, so it's a half an hour walk, which is really somehow between getting dressed and getting to the office. I don't have time to have breakfast, but I've been really into having bone broth in the morning.
Chloe Mel
In the morning?
Choma Menardi
Yeah. Yeah. So I don't know what that makes me or what you think of that, but that's the routine. And I try to go to bed. I can't imagine going to bed at 9. Like, I just can't. I wish I could.
Chloe Mel
I know. I really try, and I find it really challenging.
Choma Menardi
Yeah. I mean, I can't imagine with everything they have to do with the kids and everything. I usually get to bed between. If I'm really good, I get to bed by 10:30. I mean, usually on the weekend when I'm actually exhausted and just can crawl into bed at 10. I do. But usually, like, last night was 11. It used to be before midnight was like the cut off.
Chloe Mel
Wow.
Choma Menardi
But I'm trying to cut, like, roll that back. Because I do think that, you know, as we know from the data that we receive from our Oura ring, my deep sleep moments happen before midnight.
Chloe Mel
I Love that all these people were asking questions about our work experience and our schedule and all we're all talking about is our sleep.
Choma Menardi
I know, I'm telling you, sleep is what keeps your brain sharp.
Chloe Mel
It's very important.
Choma Menardi
What about you?
Chloe Mel
What is my daily schedule? Today was sort of a good typical example. I wake up at 5:30, I check my phone. We have wonderful UK colleagues who are already up and running and so sometimes I'll have messages from them. I'll send our daily lineup. And then this morning I ran to my boxing gym, which I love and worked out from six to seven. And then wow, how many days a week do you do that boxing? I do one to two, but I try to.
Choma Menardi
And then what else? You have other.
Chloe Mel
Then I do Pilates one morning and I try to run.
Choma Menardi
You are my goals.
Chloe Mel
7 to 8am in our house is extremely chaotic. It's sort of trying to get kids fed and dressed and also not attack each other, which has been a recurring theme lately. So either Graham or I or both of us will take the kids to preschool, which is like a 15 minute walk away. That drop off takes like 10 minutes to about 9am Then the 4 or 5 train is right near there. So then I take the train down to the office and I usually am in the office by 9:20 or 9:30. We have a very packed meeting schedule. Like I feel like I'm very much chatting with people all day about various things. So it's either group meetings or one on one. So I'm trying to be better about blocking off time to reply to emails, get actual work done, get through my to do list instead of doing that at night when I get home I am one of those people who leaves the office early. Alison, Artie, eat dinner around 5:30. So by 6 it's bath time. Then they get to play a little bit. Then we read stories or do puzzles. Then their bedtime is like 7 or 7:30. Then I like to watch TV for like an hour or two hours. So by the time we watch TV it's like 10. By the time I actually go to bed at like 10:30, 11.
Choma Menardi
Oh gosh, your day. Woo.
Chloe Mel
Well, I think we all have pretty robust schedules, including not least of which Nicole Phelps, who has somewhere to run to right now. So thank you very much for stopping by, Nicole.
Choma Menardi
Thanks so much Nicole.
Jose Criatas Unzueta
It's great to talk to you both.
Chloe Mel
Bye Nicole.
Choma Menardi
Bye.
Jose Criatas Unzueta
Thank you.
Chloe Mel
Okay, what's next?
Choma Menardi
So this question comes from Jonathan. They wrote I'm curious one when and how each of you realized you Had a facility with words. And two, what are some writers that you found particularly influential? I think someone else pointed it out to me. One of my mentors, I was emailing them about working in magazines. I really wanted to be a stylist. And at the time, emails were like these long letters that you wrote to each other. And Polly Vernon, who's a very well known, amazing journalist in the uk, writes a lot for the Times of London. She at the time was. Was kind of like a young editor just starting out in the business. And she was just like, you have a way with words. Like, do you sure you want to be a stylist? Do you not want to intern with us? And I was like, dunno, I'm kind of tired of writing all these essays for school. But all right, if you think that, if you think there's something there, that's when I realized it was other people telling me. And then I remember one of the editors at the magazine that I first worked at as a features assistant, she was like, you wrote this. This is really good. And I was like, oh, my God. Like, you know, when you're just like, oh, my God, I know it means.
Chloe Mel
So much, it means so much.
Choma Menardi
But writing so hard. As far as fashion critics, I was a big fan. I was like, Sarah Mo was definitely one of the first sort of fashion critics that I read religiously. And Polly Vernon, who was my. My mentor and I interviewed and I learned a lot about how to do an interview from transcribing her interviews, I.
Chloe Mel
Would say from when I was like 8 years old. I loved writing and I found it to be very therapeutic and that. That was a way that I really liked expressing myself and also sort of cataloging the world around me. I think maybe the first writer I loved was Harriet the Spy. Harriet the Spy was really just a good journalist. She was a spy because she was just reporting on what was around her. So I have such a specific memory of being in staying. My mom and I always traveled together, the two of us, because I was an only child and my father died when I was young. So it was very much like the two of us on these amazing trips around the world. And we were at an amazing hotel in Venice when I was like 8 years old. And I, like, Eloise just went with the hotel stationery pad, walking around, writing down notes about people I saw, like at the pool and at the restaurant and fast forward, that was basically what party reporting was 20 years later. But yeah, so Harriet the Spy, a lot of credit. And then I had a Similar experience with Troma, where I worked on the newspaper in high school and college. And people were always very nice about my writing. But it really wasn't until I started working at the New York observer with people who I was completely in awe of. Journalists and editors, reporters who were such sort of legends in their field. And I remember the copy editor was a very lovely but quiet man and who didn't give a lot. He wasn't sort of an over praiser. And I filed just. It was actually remember what it was. It was my first story as a party report about Nora Ephron's play Love Loss and what I wore. And Chris and Alexandra, my editor told me, you know what, this was great. Chloe. And Chris actually asked me, how much did you change this? Because it was really good. And that was really meant a lot to me. And I'm still very insecure about my writing. So when people write me after something and it never goes away, say they like it.
Choma Menardi
I don't even like to call myself a writer.
Chloe Mel
Oh wow. Choma.
Choma Menardi
I know.
Chloe Mel
I mean, I don't really either anymore, but. Cause I haven't been writing lately. But yeah, that's. It goes a long way. I would also say. I mean, I'm always amazed when I read really good nonfiction. How inspiring that is to be writing. Like if it's memoirists like Vivian Gornick or Mary Carr or. I remember reading Tom Wolfe's essay Radical Chic, which is so scathing and funny and thinking, oh, this is something that I could and want to do. We are going to take a short break and we will be right back with more questions. EBay. It's the place to fall in love with new pre loved vintage and rare fashion. Over and over again, your favorite designers expertly authenticated. Yeah, eBay. Things people love. And we're back with our next question from a listener named Noah. He wrote, since I was 6, sewing and sketching have been my favorite things to do. I would love to know what people at Vogue look for when spotting up and coming designers and talent in the fashion industry. If you have any advice or insights, I would love to know. Chum, I'm gonna kick this one to you.
Choma Menardi
Yeah, I mean, it's such a good question. Cause when I started at Vogue, I used to do a lot more of what we call death sides where we invite designers in to the office to show new designers. And I remember actually my interview with Anna being very kind of, you know, very obsessed with new designers. And part of what I did at the Fader was spotting talent and finding new designers. So it's always been something I've enjoyed. And I remember when I first met, for example, Raul Lopez of. Who at the time was part of buyer. And just thinking, these guys are going to be big. And they were, you know, so it's always sort of wonderful to meet someone at the beginning of their career, whatever creative field they're in. But especially with fashion, if you're a fashion nerd like me, and what I usually look for is what you tend to find is that, you know, we're all influenced by the world around me, around us. Right. We're all influenced by the world around us. And a lot of.
Chloe Mel
Well, influenced by the world around Choma.
Choma Menardi
We're all influenced around me. But. But no, we're kind of. It's hard to have, like, a really seriously singular point of view. And those are the people I really think, oh, I've never seen this before. And, oh, this feels like new. And it's like a. It's. It's not derivative of someone else. It's not influenced by someone else.
Chloe Mel
And like, it feels authentic to them.
Choma Menardi
It feels authentic to them.
Chloe Mel
I hate that word.
Choma Menardi
No, but it's true. And. And it feels like only they could make this stuff and only. And it's a story only they could tell. And I think the same, as a writer, there are some stories I know only I could tell this story. Right. And that's often what gets me off my butt to write something when I really know I have to write something. Cause I know no one else could tell that story. And I think it's the same with fashion. Like, there aren't, like, step by step, do this, and you'll be. But you have to kind of have a story to tell and have a really very specific pov.
Chloe Mel
You know, you have to see something and think, this can only come from this person. This is so central to the core of who they are. Like, I just remember when Emily Boddy started and it was like, this is kooky and weird. And so, as Anna likes to say, loving hands at home. But that is who she is. And her brand has become such a staple of American fashion because she has stayed true to that.
Choma Menardi
Yeah. Okay, so next question. So this is from Catherine. She wrote, I will be getting married in June 2025, which is soon. It's around the corner. This is my second marriage and I am 51 and only 5 foot 4. I would love to wear something chic and short, but yet age appropriate. Any suggestions? Chloe, having not been Walked down the aisle. I'm going to leave this to you.
Chloe Mel
Well, I will say that two of our best performing wedding stories this past year were about older brides. And I'm first of all, I'm gonna say 51 is not old.
Choma Menardi
No.
Chloe Mel
But we did have two brides that were. One was 70, one was 80 and.
Choma Menardi
They look so incredibly chic.
Chloe Mel
So chic, so fabulous. But both of them I think were second weddings. Maybe at least one of them was a second wedding. And so there is this question of I don't wanna have the classic froofy white again. And I also, I don't know if that's the right point of view for a more mature bride. So what I really liked in Barbara Guggenheim's story, she wore an off the shoulder addersy suit which was, I think it was a duchess, a dutchess satin or duchess silk.
Choma Menardi
That was one of my faves.
Chloe Mel
And it was so elegant and beautiful. And she had a great quote in her story where it was like the shoulders are the last to go. It was like expose your shoulders. So I really liked that. I think. And also actually the, the, the 70 year old bride wore off the shoulder. Gabriella Hearst. So I do think that finding a designer that you love and that you feel confident in and then looking for whatever their evening wear option is or their more formal designs, I don't think you have to go for quote unquote wedding dresses. I think that the row has great dresses for all occasions. Gabriella Hurst Addersy. As far as short.
Choma Menardi
Yeah. I was gonn. Cause how tall are you?
Chloe Mel
I'm five three and five eighths.
Choma Menardi
Okay. So you can relate.
Chloe Mel
I can relate. I did not wear a short wedding dress.
Choma Menardi
I don't think of you as.
Chloe Mel
Thank you choma.
Choma Menardi
But yes. Okay.
Chloe Mel
Towering volume, I think for short, I think that new Alessandra Michele Valentino has some great short options that would work for all ages if that's in your budget. The benefit of getting married as a more mature person is that you know the brands and the cut that work for you. So I don't think, I think lean into that rather than what you think is appropriate or what you think is quote unquote bridal.
Choma Menardi
Yeah. I almost feel like don't go to like don't start with bridal. Look at ready to wear first and.
Chloe Mel
Yes, exactly.
Choma Menardi
You know.
Chloe Mel
Next question is from Kendra from France. She asked, I'm curious what Vogue staffers wear to the office and more. So what is expected to be worn? Does it have to be all or Mostly high end designer. Or would someone be snubbed for coming in with a Gap sweater or Old Navy jeans?
Choma Menardi
Oh, this is a good one. Yeah. It's so funny because one of our former colleagues, Liana Sattenstein, recently wrote about the Gap sweater that everybody is coveting a vintage, stripy Gap sweater so you would never be snubbed for wearing. It's much more about.
Chloe Mel
Especially not now. Like, as we learn from our democratization of fashion conversation with Willow and Jose and Hannah, it really has become a point of pride for someone to say, ooh, I love that sweater, and say, mm, it's J. Crew.
Choma Menardi
Yeah, exactly. And I also think it's just about how you style things. I remember when I first came to Vogue, I was very preoccupied with this because I didn't have a huge budget, and as a fashion writer, I didn't, I didn't earn very much, and I wasn't able to buy designer clothing. So I got very creative. But it was such a joy for me to get dressed because I was among other people who appreciated getting dressed.
Chloe Mel
It is so much fun being in the Vogue office and appreciating each other's clothes. It feels like being at a high school sweetheart.
Choma Menardi
Yeah. I mean, like, I was, I, I, I recently bought a Marc Jacobs cardigan, which I was very obsessed with. But I felt a bit of guilt because I was. I was only wanted to buy one sweater that day, and I bought two. And this sweater wasn't too. I mean, it was $200.
Chloe Mel
It was so cute.
Choma Menardi
It was so cute.
Chloe Mel
A shrunken red cable knit with jeweled, mismatched, jeweled buttons. And it's distressed in just the most subtle ways.
Choma Menardi
Yeah. Yeah. So I felt truly vindicated and very much less guilty when two of my colleagues, including Chloe.
Chloe Mel
Oh, me and Sam Sussman, were like, we're both buying that immediately because it was also on sale for $200. And Sam and I were hardcore influenced. I mean, I will also say that there is a big difference from when I started working at Vogue 15 years ago. Like, you know, we all wore heels.
Choma Menardi
I remember I would buy all of my heels from the Manola BL. They were $100 a pair, and that was what I wore to work.
Chloe Mel
It's amazing to me now to think about the heels that we wore all day long.
Choma Menardi
Oh, my God, I could never.
Chloe Mel
But I also was always barefoot because I would, like, kick them off when I got to my desk and then forget and, like, walk out barefoot. It was not a great look. Also, I think it's very accepted at Vogue to re wear your clothes often. I think that Chumas are wearing the same pair of Phoebe Filo pants for the entire two weeks she's been here. It's one of the most impressive amortization situations I've ever seen.
Choma Menardi
I just didn't have. I just was like, I can't make a decision about my wardrobe.
Chloe Mel
We got a great question on the Vogue app which said, do you feel like we are entering a new era in fashion, marked especially by Mathieu Blase at Chanel, Sarah Burton at Givenchy, and possibly a shakeup at Dior?
Choma Menardi
I know this phrase is used often, but there's a total vibe shift in fashion. We're seeing a new generation of designers, some who we've known who've got amazing, you know, chops, as Sarah Burton, who's an industry vet, and then someone like Blase who's kind of made his mark at Bottega in a very short time and kind of his ascent has been very rapid. So it's sort of interesting to see that. I mean, they're kind of on opposite ends of the spectrum as far as experience and trajectory, but these two can exist in the same moment. We're going to see a different mood in the next year. I think there's going to be a real shift in the way we. We dress.
Chloe Mel
Yeah.
Choma Menardi
Okay, so next question. We have this really great question for our wonderful colleague Jose. It's from Carlos, and it says, if you walk around Bushwick or the Lower east side, you'll often see a lot of people wearing the same outfit. So if we take Jose Criatas Unswerta's definition of the trademark of a great designer as changing, inspiring the way people dress, then an inspired generation would share a similar design language, not the same outfits. I agree. I believe we are living in an uninspired temporality. What is the biggest obstacle to designers looking to change this conformist attitude in the way we dress? So, Jose, welcome.
Nicole Phelps
Hi, divas.
Chloe Mel
What's up, Mr. Crealis? Nzweta.
Nicole Phelps
You know, just around, just hanging out. I love this question, mainly because it means you paid attention. Carlos. What a real one. To me, this sort of, like, sameness in outfits is actually a design language translated to the street, you know, like, in a sense, yes, it's more of a styling language than a design language. But the mark of this decade in fashion has been styling as a language or like merchandising and styling as a language in clothing, whether it's on the Runway, on the street, on street style or whatever it is, right? Think of like the rise of normcore 10 plus years ago, what Demna did at Vetemont and then at Balenciaga, like, that whole design language is actually what we are seeing translated onto the street and the sameness of outfit. I think the biggest obstacle actually is the Internet. The reality is that when you think of this generation, whether it's like younger millennials or into Gen Z, what we share is an access to images and access to inspiration. We share the same references. Right. When you think of past generations, if you sort of want to think that, you know, all of these celebrities, they looked, quote, unquote, better, they looked more interesting because they weren't styled or whatever. They also didn't share the same references. The designers making clothes, we're also looking at references whether it's on a museum or a library or whatnot. Now we're all looking at the same for you pages and Instagrams and sort of mood boards. Right.
Choma Menardi
So it's the algorithm that we need to be mad at.
Nicole Phelps
Exactly. And like, you know, it's. It's. It's like, it's so interesting because. Yes, and it's also. But also at the same time, the algorithm is like the easiest thing to sort of like, you know, blame sort.
Choma Menardi
Of ambiguousness, our own laziness, maybe.
Nicole Phelps
Exactly. And like, we build our algorithms, right? Like, we do have the same references, but because we are liking the same images. Right. Like, Carolyn Bassett Kennedy is on everyone's sort of mood board, not because, you know, there's sort of like an insidious force, sort of like putting her in front of us, but because we are liking her images. Right. So, like, the barrier, in a way, is the Internet, but it's also ourselves. Like, yes, we are uninspired, but are we uninspired because no one is inspiring us or because we are just not doing the work to get inspired? So I think, you know, the sort of boundary I find, and again, I love this question, is less so on the designer side and more so on the person. Like, what inspires you to get dressed every day? Is it the same photo of, like, the same influencer or the same vintage photo of a celebrity, or is it a passion you. You have to look a certain way? You know what I mean? So I think we are actually the barrier. More so than, like, what's on the market?
Choma Menardi
What a fantastic question to end on.
Chloe Mel
Thank you for having me.
Choma Menardi
Yeah. Thank you so much for stopping by. Yeah, no, but like, food for thought.
Chloe Mel
The fairy godmother waves her wand and then she disappears.
Nicole Phelps
I know. She's got to go have lunch, honey. And thank you, Carlos. That was great.
Choma Menardi
I know.
Chloe Mel
Thank you to everyone who sent us questions. Thank you so, so much. We have a lot more questions to get through and we will definitely, definitely do another one of these episodes again. So stay tuned until then. We will be back next week. Bye.
Choma Menardi
Bye.
Chloe Mel
The Run through is produced by Chelsea Daniel, Alex DePalma and Joanna Solotarov. It's engineered by Jake Loomis, Pran Bondi and James. Yeah, it is mixed by Mike Kutchman. Stephanie Karaoke is our executive producer and Chris Bannon is Conde Nast's head of global audio. When you have high standards and fancy all the fancy things like an iconic Dior saddlebag or a stunning diamond tennis bracelet, you go to ebay. There you'll find new loves that never disappoint. Expertly authenticated. Whether it's that vintage pearl necklace, brand new ruby earrings, a Prada crossbody bag to be besties with your other handbag, or an eternally classic watch like a Rolex oyster or Cartier tank, you know the one. Ebay's experts ensure that you're getting the real deal. That way you can be confident that the designer finds you came for the luxury wardrobe you've always wanted. It's all real. In fact, it's verified authentic. So bring your high standards and never limit what you can truly find. Yeah, ebay. The place for new, pre loved, vintage and rare fashion. Ebay Things people love.
Choma Menardi
From prx.
In-Depth Summary of "How We Got Our Jobs At Vogue and More... We (Finally) Answer Your Questions!"
The Run-Through with Vogue released its highly anticipated episode, "How We Got Our Jobs At Vogue and More... We (Finally) Answer Your Questions!" on January 23, 2025. Hosted by Chioma Nnadi (Choma Menardi) and Chloe Mel, the episode delves into personal career journeys at Vogue, recent fashion news, and addresses a myriad of listener questions. Featuring insights from colleagues Nicole Phelps and Jose Criatas Unzueta, the episode offers a comprehensive look into the vibrant world of Vogue and the broader fashion industry.
The episode kicks off with a discussion about the recent U.S. inauguration, focusing on the interplay between politics and fashion. Choma shares her perspective on the new political climate:
Choma Menardi [01:17]: "I think it feels like we're entering a completely different political climate... it was really sad."
Chloe highlights Vogue's coverage of the inauguration, emphasizing how fashion conveys deeper societal messages:
Chloe Mel [03:05]: "There have been across different publications, some really interesting, thoughtful analyses of what first lady Melania Trump wore..."
The hosts examine the challenges faced by smaller designers when their creations are worn by high-profile figures without direct collaboration. Choma touches on this dilemma:
Choma Menardi [04:31]: "What do you do as a small brand if Usha Vance purchases a piece of your clothing and wears it...?"
Notable moments include Lauren Sanchez's avant-garde outfit and Ivanka Trump's Givenchy dress, sparking conversations about designer authenticity:
Chloe Mel [06:13]: "She was wearing a new spin on suffragette white... really like, inauguration dress codes are not for me and I'm going to wear this."
Choma expresses concerns over the inauguration's retro, old Hollywood glamour aesthetic, associating it with outdated societal values:
Choma Menardi [08:13]: "It's bringing back all these old world values... I find it quite scary."
Conversely, they acknowledge uplifting moments, such as Bishop Marianne Budd's impactful speech advocating for mercy and compassion:
Choma Menardi [10:12]: "She just kind of really... reminded him... that there are a lot of people who... they're going to massively disrupt and hurt them."
Chloe brings up the recent settlement between Prince Harry and Rupert Murdoch's newspapers over a phone-tapping scandal. Choma adds context regarding its coverage:
Choma Menardi [11:59]: "I don't feel like the tabloids are really going deep on it because they have completely turned against Harry and Meghan."
Choma shares her excitement for Men's Fashion Month, highlighting Pharrell's innovative show at the Louvre and upcoming couture collections from Schiaparelli and Valentino:
Choma Menardi [13:14]: "I'm headed to the couture shows on Sunday, so I'll see Schiaparelli first thing in the morning and then Dior."
Nicole Phelps reminisces about her interview with iconic designer Bob Mackie:
Chola Mel [15:14]: "I interviewed the adorable Bob Mackie... he really just sort of leaned into. He invented the naked dress for cheetahs."
Listener Serena inquires about the hosts' journeys to Vogue. Choma and Jose, joined by Nicole, share their experiences:
Jose Criatas Unzueta recounts his transition from Elle to Style.com and eventually Vogue:
Jose Criatas Unzueta [17:27]: "I was writing Fashion News... when Conde Nast decided to try to make style.com an e-commerce site, the archive... came over onto vogue.com."
Choma Menardi narrates her move from the UK to the US, starting at Trace, then The Fader, and leveraging connections to join Vogue:
Choma Menardi [21:27]: "I wrote a letter to the editor of Trace... then I cold called him and got offered a job."
Chloe Mel shares her path from the New York Observer to Vogue, emphasizing the importance of seizing opportunities:
Chloe Mel [23:21]: "Whenever young people ask me about how to get into fashion or media, my biggest piece of advice is always take the meeting."
The hosts provide a glimpse into their daily lives, balancing demanding careers with personal responsibilities.
Jose details his early mornings preparing breakfast for his son and striving for ample sleep:
Jose Criatas Unzueta [26:33]: "I've been setting my alarm a little bit earlier... trying to go to bed earlier to get those full eight hours."
Choma discusses her focus on sleep, bone broth mornings, and managing a late-night schedule:
Choma Menardi [28:50]: "I try to go to bed... remember my deep sleep moments happen before midnight."
Chloe describes her active mornings with boxing and Pilates, followed by a hectic family routine:
Chloe Mel [30:10]: "I wake up at 5:30... ran to my boxing gym... have kids to get ready and out the door by 9am."
The hosts discuss their realization of their writing abilities and the authors who influenced them.
Choma Menardi [37:00]: "I don't even like to call myself a writer."
Chloe Mel [34:30]: "Harriet the Spy was really just a good journalist... that's what party reporting was 20 years later."
Nicole emphasizes the importance of authenticity and a unique point of view when identifying emerging talent.
Nicole Phelps [38:23]: "What you tend to find is... a really seriously singular point of view... it's authentic to them."
Chloe and Choma offer guidance for brides seeking chic, age-appropriate wedding attire, suggesting ready-to-wear options over traditional bridal conventions.
Chloe Mel [41:17]: "Barbara Guggenheim's story... she wore an off the shoulder addersy suit... very elegant and beautiful."
Choma Menardi [43:25]: "Don't go to bridal. Look at ready-to-wear first..."
The discussion highlights the blend of high-end and casual styles among Vogue staff, emphasizing creativity and personal expression over strict fashion rules.
Choma Menardi [43:53]: "It's much more about how you style things... I got very creative."
Chloe Mel [45:42]: "I couldn't make a decision about my wardrobe, but now we are appreciated for showing our style."
Choma and Chloe analyze the shifts in fashion brought about by both veteran designers and rising talents, predicting a new mood in upcoming seasons.
Choma Menardi [46:39]: "We're going to see a different mood in the next year... a real shift in the way we dress."
Nicole and Choma discuss the role of the internet and individual inspiration in combating fashion conformity, attributing the sameness to shared digital influences and personal engagement.
Nicole Phelps [49:33]: "The algorithm is like the easiest thing to sort of like blame..."
Choma Menardi [50:26]: "What inspires you to get dressed every day?... it's you."
The episode wraps up with gratitude towards the listeners for their engaging questions and a promise for more interactive episodes in the future. The hosts encourage continued participation and express enthusiasm for upcoming discussions.
Choma Menardi [51:02]: "Thank you so much for stopping by."
Chloe Mel [51:02]: "Thank you to everyone who sent us questions... We will definitely do another one of these episodes again."
This episode of The Run-Through with Vogue offers a heartfelt and insightful exploration of the hosts' personal journeys within Vogue, the intricate relationship between fashion and current events, and practical advice for aspiring fashion professionals and enthusiasts alike. By addressing listener questions with authenticity and expertise, Choma, Chloe, Nicole, and Jose provide valuable perspectives on navigating the dynamic world of fashion journalism and design.