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- [00:01]
Unknown Speaker
One of my favorite parts about springtime is switching up my bedding. This season I found fresh fabrics and colors for my space from Brooklinen and I can't wait to enjoy them and the breeze through my finally open window. Now I have two toddlers and I recently asked 5 year old Arthur what his favorite thing to do is and he said watch Winnie the Pooh in mama's bed on the weekend, which is something he's allowed to do. He's not allowed to do that on the weekdays because it is a manic rush out of the house to get. And I have to say if you don't switch up your bed clothes and it's getting not frigid out, you're getting a little warm. So having some fresh breathable linen sheets from Brooklinen is a very important element to Saturday morning Winnie the Pooh watching shop award winners and fan faves in store or online@brooklinen.com that's B R O O K L I N E n get 15% off your first order today. It used to be hard for me to find affordable and ethical luxury items, but not since I discovered Quint's. You can feel the difference in quality with Quint's. I love the Quint's kids clothes that I got. Arthur has a Quint cashmere hoodie that he truly wears two to three times a week. It is his favorite thing to wear. Alice has Quince jeans which are adorable and I'm gonna have to get the next size up and my little niece said that for her first grown up apartment she just got Quint sheets. So quints around the family has been very exciting. Give yourself the luxury you deserve with quints. Go to quince.com runthrough for free shipping on your order and 365 day returns. That's Q-U-I-N-C-E.com runthrough to get free shipping and 365 day returns. Quince.com runthrough.
- [02:07]
Nicole Phelps
This is the Run through. I'm Nicole Phelps. I'm lucky to be joined here in the studio once again by Vogue's fashion news director, Mark Holgate.
- [02:15]
Mark Holgate
Thank you Nicole. Always very happy to be here.
- [02:17]
Nicole Phelps
Thank you. We are recording this episode ahead of Vogue's upcoming Vintage market which is coming to New York on March 29th. Mark your calendars, buy your tickets. The market will be filled with vintage treasures curated by some of the industry's best dressed people, models Enoch Yai and Paloma Elcessor. And our Vogue Colleague Hamish Bowles, to name just a few. Plus, we hit the Vogue rolodex and asked CoverGirls, style stars and top design houses to donate pieces from their very own wardrobes and collections. All of the proceeds from the sale will go to the Entertainment Community Fund, supporting people impacted by the LA fires. We are so excited to have one of the biggest style stars of them all, Lynn Yeager here with us today. Lynn donated to the vintage market as well, so we'll be talking to her about which pieces to look out for while you're shopping. Mark, on the off chance that our listeners might not know about Lynn, how would you describe her?
- [03:18]
Mark Holgate
Well, I always like to say in two words. Lynn Jaeger. In one word, legend. Lyn is a street style star and has been photographed, obviously, so many times over the years. And she is someone who fuses a kind of an incredibly individualistic look. The kind of the tutus, the slightly kind of 20s, 30s kind of air and attitude of the clothing, but then also mixed up with Comme des Garcons and Junior and Simone Rocha and Molly Goddard and someone who's also fiercely intellectual and smart and thoughtful about fashion and the kind of politics and culture of fashion.
- [03:58]
Nicole Phelps
And she's a great writer. I read Lynn before I knew her. Do you remember the shopping column she did in the New Yorker?
- [04:05]
Mark Holgate
Fantastic.
- [04:06]
Nicole Phelps
I mean, I read that religiously, line for line, word for word.
- [04:11]
Mark Holgate
Well, I think it's because she is both deeply inside and then also deeply outside the industry. And the fact that she can kind of maintain those two positions, and those is what makes her so, to me, kind of fascinating as a commentator on all things style.
- [04:28]
Nicole Phelps
Okay, here's our conversation with the one and only Lynn Yeager after a quick break.
- [04:44]
Mark Holgate
Working at Vanity Fair. Our entire lives revolve around press screenings, premieres, film festivals, Q&As, set visits, award ceremonies.
- [04:52]
Nicole Phelps
Not that we're complaining, it's pretty great. But you know that feeling when you see a new film or show and you want to talk about it with everyone immediately? We feel that all the time.
- [05:01]
Mark Holgate
Yes, we sure do. I'm Richard Lawson.
- [05:05]
Nicole Phelps
I'm David Canfield. And I'm Rebecca Ford.
- [05:08]
Mark Holgate
On Little Gold Men, Vanity Fair's flagship entertainment podcast, we discuss today's most exciting films and TV shows.
- [05:14]
Nicole Phelps
David and I are fresh off attending the LA premiere last night.
- [05:17]
Mark Holgate
Break down the latest developments in the awards races. Gomez and Grande split the pop girly vote and catch up with Hollywood's biggest movers and shakers.
- [05:24]
Nicole Phelps
Demi Moore, welcome to the show.
- [05:26]
Mark Holgate
Thank you. For having me.
- [05:27]
Lynn Yeager
Whether you're a casual viewer or an.
- [05:29]
Mark Holgate
Industry buff, this is the podcast for you. New episodes are published every Tuesday and Thursday. Follow and listen to Little Gold Men wherever you get your podcasts.
- [05:44]
Unknown Speaker
One of my favorite parts about springtime is switching up my bedding. This season I found fresh fabrics and colors for my space from Brooklinen and I can't wait to enjoy them and the breeze through my finally open window. Now I have two toddlers and I recently asked 5 year old Arthur what his favorite thing to do is and he said watch Winnie the Pooh in Mama's bed on the weekend, which is something he's allowed to do. He's not allowed to do that on the weekdays because it is a manic rush out of the house to get school. And I have to say, if you don't switch up your bed clothes and it's getting not frigid out, you're getting a little warm. So having some fresh breathable linen sheets from Brooklinen is a very important element to Saturday Morning Winnie the Pooh watching shop award winners and fan faves in store or online@brooklinen.com that's B R O O K L I N E N Get 15% off your first order today.
- [06:54]
Nicole Phelps
Welcome Lynn Today hi Nicole hi. We are excited to talk all things vintage with you today.
- [07:02]
Mark Holgate
And Lynn, I need to ask you because we've obviously got a whole focus on vintage in our April issue and also we're going to be throwing a vintage market and you and I in our friendship, professional and personal, have been to many, many, many vintage markets over the years. So I'd love to know what are you donating to this one because we have a sale happening in New York on March 29th.
- [07:28]
Lynn Yeager
You know, I donated four things and I can't remember what one of them is, but one of them I donated a very nice velvet, little velvet sort of evening bag from the 1920s just cause I'm that sort of person that donates things that are nice. And then I donated like a tutu because it was because I thought I liked it. I had it in my sale and then I took it back and then there was always something about it that wasn't quite right. And then I donated some Uggs because people gave them to me but they were the wrong color so I never wore them. And I actually cannot remember what the fourth thing is. But I know I donated four things so. But the bag is really a great thing.
- [08:06]
Mark Holgate
Was it a hat? Was there some hat that you might yes, yes.
- [08:10]
Lynn Yeager
You're a genius. How did you know it? Well, I know that it was a hat that I took from Laura Will's store. It was like an aviator hat. And I said, you know, I love any gift or anything anyone gives me for free and anything. I hate that hat. Can I have that hat? And she goes, it's costume. It's not meant to be. No, I hate that hat. So I took it. But in fact, it was a sort of paper thing, kind of cardboardy fabric. So, yes, that was the fourth thing.
- [08:35]
Mark Holgate
It's not the tweedy Amelia Earhart aviator.
- [08:39]
Lynn Yeager
No, no, no. It's not any of my super good things.
- [08:42]
Mark Holgate
Oh, okay. Okay.
- [08:43]
Nicole Phelps
Should we go around the circle? Mark, are you donating anything?
- [08:46]
Mark Holgate
I am. I've gotta go through. The problem is I'm not a big shopper for clothes, and it's true. And then I tend to just keep things forever. And then there might be a tag on something, but then in five years, I'll be like, oh, yeah, I think I'm ready to wear. But I don't shop very much. But I will go through. I need to see if there's a few. But also, to be honest, all the best vintage Y stuff I had in my wardrobe. And I actually feel quite sick when I say this. I had a terrible breakup years and years and years ago, and I gave away so much Helmut Lang 90s Yoji things that actually I should have just kept, but I didn't. I gave them all to Goodwill.
- [09:32]
Nicole Phelps
Well, I told Mark that if he gives away or he donates any of his Margiela zip neck, zip zip front cardigans, I would be buying them because I love Mark's zip front Margiela cardigans.
- [09:45]
Lynn Yeager
Well, he does have 150 of them, so maybe I can donate 100.
- [09:49]
Mark Holgate
So I will donate one. I will donate one. I promise.
- [09:52]
Lynn Yeager
He could make do with 149 of them.
- [09:54]
Nicole Phelps
The request came in while we were in Europe, so I have not yet donated. But it just dawned on me that I have an in incredible pair of hot pink satin embroidered maharishi pajama pants from late 90s, early 2000s that sadly no longer fit me. And maybe I'll donate those. I think those could be a high, high value item.
- [10:20]
Lynn Yeager
Yeah. How much is the admission to the market, do you know?
- [10:23]
Nicole Phelps
$25.
- [10:24]
Lynn Yeager
Oh, okay.
- [10:25]
Mark Holgate
Cheap at twice the price for access to all of these treasures.
- [10:29]
Lynn Yeager
Yes. The paper thin aviator hat, the brown Uggs. Yeah, there's, like, things.
- [10:35]
Mark Holgate
The Uggs is a bit of a surprise, Lynn. I mean, I know that you are. People wouldn't necessarily think of you as being a kind of simple life, you know, type with the Uggs.
- [10:46]
Lynn Yeager
I mean, it's just I wear Uggs all winter. I think they just have such a cuteness and they're so comfy. And, you know, I have my Molly garter embroidered one, which is like my favorite. And then I have really old ones. That was a Liberty of London collab that they did. And, you know, I'm full of unexpected style salvos over here in Lin land.
- [11:10]
Nicole Phelps
Speaking of unexpected style Salvos, eBay is our partner for the vintage market, as you know, probably. And you are a crazy ebay shopper. Am I? Am I right?
- [11:22]
Lynn Yeager
Ebay shopper.
- [11:23]
Nicole Phelps
There is an article circa 2010 where you say, here's what I do every single morning in between teeth brushing and waiting for the coffee to boil. I turn on my laptop and type baby locket into ebay. Is that what you're.
- [11:35]
Lynn Yeager
I did it this morning. I did it this morning. I put antique baby locket. I thought maybe something came in. I did it this morning. Yes, I do that. I. I mean, I did it this morning. I put in. I'll tell you what I looked for. I looked for antique baby locket, nothing. Antique baby brooch, nothing much. Carved. Anti carved moonstone. Because I like a moonstone with a baby face. Nothing. Then I tried Etsy as well, even though they're not our partner and we love ebay. But yes, I did that this morning. So obviously things don't change. What's 15 years, you know?
- [12:09]
Mark Holgate
And Lyn, I mean, you and I are both kind of avid ebayer addicts, you know, and we all have our own.
- [12:18]
Lynn Yeager
Oh, I have such a cute story about Mor. Can I just tell this, please? I was visiting him in the office on Times Square, and he had this salt and pepper shakers, these like, kind of. I don't know. And then two seconds later, he looked at. He said, it's sold. It was because I bought it for him. He goes, God damn it, it's sold. I was like, yeah, that was fun.
- [12:37]
Mark Holgate
I still have those. There's little Arabia. Finland. Yes. From the late 60s, early 70s. I know. I mean, life is just. I feel with ebay, life is full of regrets about what you didn't bid on or you didn't get to buy it now quickly enough. But what is it, Lynne? Because knowing you so well, so much of your vintage collecting is tenacious. So what is it about? The thrill of the chase? What is it about? The looking. And I know it can be ebay, it can be Porte de Venve, the flea market in Paris. It can be a flea market that you and I used to frequent every Saturday and Sunday in Chelsea in New York. What is it about the thrill of the chase that is so cool?
- [13:19]
Lynn Yeager
Well, it's all one of a kind, you know, so there's that. It's all one of a kind. And it's way cheaper than new stuff. Everything's cheaper. It just is. Especially now with the prices so high for everything. And I don't know, it's fun. It's just like. Because the things. Because it's very unexpected. Like, remember the white velvet smock story? So one time I said to Mark, we're sitting in my living room and I said, you know what I want for fall? A white velvet smock. And Mark goes, well, we've been at every show in four cities. There was no white velvet smock. There is no white velvet smock. Okay? At the flea market, there is a chance that there's a white velvet smock. You don't know what's going to turn up. You don't know what old Comme des Garcons is going to turn up on somebody's rack. You just don't know. I mean, it's so. It's the thrill of the chase, I.
- [14:09]
Nicole Phelps
Guess, you know, let's raise a virtual glass to the flea Market on 26th street and 6th Avenue. It's some stupid high rise apartment building now. And that was my favorite thing to do. Go to that flea market garage.
- [14:25]
Lynn Yeager
Which one?
- [14:25]
Nicole Phelps
The garage, the outdoor part. And then if I still had energy, I would go to the indoor one. Down. Down the. Not on the avenue. Down the. Down the street. Right.
- [14:34]
Lynn Yeager
Yeah, that was the best. I would have spent a thousand bucks there in five minutes on what? Patchwork quilt, diamond charm and something else. Maybe like a fur scarf or. I don't know. All I know is it was just like a cavalcade of treasures.
- [14:50]
Nicole Phelps
Lynn, were you vintage obsessed, you know, from the beginning, or how did this, this habit or this passion of yours take shape?
- [15:01]
Lynn Yeager
Well, I guess at some point in my 20s, I decided that I really looked good in 1920s clothes. And I was only going to wear 1920s clothes, so I had to build an entire wardrobe. I once went to London with six beaded dresses in my suitcase. I mean, I was very committed to this vision of 1920, so. And of course, it was a long time ago, so the things weren't as old as they are now. And they. And I didn't have the money. So it was basically. I sort of thought looking like this 1920s flapper was sort of this idea I had about myself. But also, I didn't really have the money for the fort, for new clothes, for the kind of. For that same quality, for the quality that I could get in vintage. I could not. I didn't have the money, so.
- [15:49]
Mark Holgate
But, Lynne, I'd love to ask you, because at that point you weren't working in fashion, right? I mean, you were doing something different with your life. Were you working at the Village Voice at that point and working at fashion?
- [15:59]
Lynn Yeager
I was working at the Village Voice. I was working initially, before I started writing, in the advertising department and. And I was the head of the union, so that was fun. But I was always obsessed with fashion. Obsessed, like, from the beginning of my life.
- [16:16]
Mark Holgate
And was that idea of going towards this 1920s look, of wearing these 20s dresses. I mean, it was both the kind of narrative, I guess, inside your head of that era and as a period. I know that you really kind of love, kind of culturally, you've got a lot of interest in. For all sorts of different reasons, but it was also a way to kind of differentiate yourself a little bit. And when you were starting out in the industry, you know, was it a way to kind of give yourself a bit of a look?
- [16:40]
Lynn Yeager
No, no, it came from a very deep place. It wasn't. You know, I always laugh at these people who sort of dress up to go to fashion shows because, you know, obviously I. You know me, so I don't have any other clothes. You don't have any normal clothes. So I wouldn't know how to. So, no, it wasn't. I don't know, it was just what looked right to me. And then I just became very obsessed with it. And then, of course, you learn a lot about clothing, construction. And I mean, those early clothes are just really beautiful. I mean, they were. People did not have as much. So if you had a coat, I mean, my mom once told me you had, like, growing up, she had like, two pairs of shoes, like this day, the school shoes and like the, you know, the synagogue shoes or whatever. And that was it. I mean, they just didn't have the volume of stuff. People in Europe still don't have the volume of stuff that we have. So, I don't know. You know, it's. I mean, obviously you get attention if you're dressed like a flapper on the Lower east side and, you know, the 80s or whatever, but. But no, it came from A very deep idea of how I was gonna present myself to the world. I don't know.
- [17:48]
Mark Holgate
And how easy was it to find those things back then?
- [17:53]
Lynn Yeager
Well, Mark, you know, I can find anything. So, you know, it was challenging, but I could find anything.
- [18:01]
Mark Holgate
And what was the kind of vibe of vintage in New York at that point? Cause it was interesting. I was talking to this woman called Gil Linton, who has a company called Byronesque.
- [18:11]
Lynn Yeager
Oh, I know her.
- [18:11]
Mark Holgate
Yeah, yeah. And she and I were talking last week. She just had this big Margiela sale. And we were talking about the whole idea of vintage and how now it's just become like anything old is kind of vintage. Whereas for someone like her, as a connoisseur, a very kind of different idea. But talk to me about a little bit about what it was like then to be kind of shopping for vintage and how it's maybe different.
- [18:31]
Lynn Yeager
That's one thing. If you go to a vintage show now, there'll be like, Norma Kamali or, like, stuff you already had. You know, there'll be stuff because there's a lot of people who are much younger and didn't experience that stuff. So it was. It was kind of. It was kind of transgressive. It was kind of revolutionary. It was not something that lots of people were wearing. There was still this kind of stigma of, like, you know, that you were poor and you went to the Goodwill or you went to the Salvation army because you couldn't afford, like, new clothes. So there was still a sort of stigma around it initially. I don't know. I don't think I ever expected it to sort of catch fire the way that it did. I mean, now it's just like a. I mean, I never expected to see, like, vintage dresses on the Oscar red carpet. I mean, that is really a phenomenal thing.
- [19:17]
Mark Holgate
Well, it was interesting. Cause you wrote a very good essay. Maybe one of the favorite things that you've written for Vogue, for me anyway, was about your early years in the East Village in New York, which I think we did in a special issue that was dedicated to the.
- [19:32]
Lynn Yeager
I think it was the punk exhibit.
- [19:35]
Mark Holgate
That's right. And you wrote about living in the East Village. Do you want to tell us a little bit about that? And because it was a vintage store, I think you used to go to where it was like dumpster diving. Right. There was nothing.
- [19:46]
Lynn Yeager
No, I couldn't handle it. Bogeys on 10th Street. No. People would. My friends would come and they said, look at this velvet dress I just got for a dollar at bogies, I'd be like, bogeys was like. It was just like piled up like garbage or like an archaeological dig. It was piled up and you had to sort of dive in and pull the things. I couldn't. I just, you know, not for a.
- [20:07]
Mark Holgate
Dollar, not for a velvet dress, for a dollar.
- [20:09]
Lynn Yeager
Too middle class in the end, I couldn't handle it. But it was. It was. You know, it was. People would find things, you know.
- [20:17]
Nicole Phelps
I'd love for you to talk more about the way women, and I guess men now, too, are wearing vintage to the Oscars. Do you have any deep thoughts about why, why that might be happening?
- [20:30]
Lynn Yeager
I think to look original, you know, and to look sort of one of a kind. And it's sort of. It makes you seem kind of cool that you didn't just get like some new thing or. I don't know. I mean, it just. It's totally accepted now. It's like men's jewelry. Like, you know, we did so many essays about, oh, men are wearing jewelry now. It's just like when men are on the red carpet and they're being interviewed, a question is, what jewelry are you wearing? I mean, that I would say 10 years ago, nobody asked a man what jewelry. He wasn't wearing any jewelry. So that is like, there's a lot of. I think there's a lot of changes in how people present themselves and how people think about, you know, different things that are considered cool and acceptable that were not, you know, until fairly recently.
- [21:12]
Nicole Phelps
Mark, do you have a take on that? The vintage phenomenon at the Oscars?
- [21:16]
Mark Holgate
Well, it's interesting. I was living in the UK working for British Vogue in the 90s, and I remember Renni Zellweger. Didn't she wear a Jeanne Desece, like, yellow dress? Yellow dress. And I remember that was kind of seen as like, such a kind of radical thing to do. And because of that, I ended up interviewing this woman called Rita Watnick who had a store called Lily ac.
- [21:38]
Lynn Yeager
Oh, my God. Rita Watnick.
- [21:40]
Mark Holgate
Hello, it's Rita Watnick called Lily AC In Los Angeles.
- [21:46]
Nicole Phelps
I thought that Cameron Silver at Decades got her that dress.
- [21:49]
Mark Holgate
I don't know, maybe it was Lilia T. Maybe I could be wrong, but certainly at that time, there was just a huge embrace of vintage happening right in the 90s. I mean, you had designers like Miuccia Prada riffing and referencing on vintage and recontextualizing it for that era. You had stars wearing it on red carpets. And at the Oscars, you know, to your point, Lynne, there's a kind of point of differentiation and looking different and looking special. I think it also came with the rise of this stylist because most actresses were just dressing themselves at that point and turning up in whatever. Maybe they went down, they went to Barney's that afternoon and bought something or Saks Fifth Avenue and bought a dress and that was it. Whereas the rise of the stylist and this point of like, making yourself look different, look stylish, look connected to the fashion world became very important. And then I think just also there was a shift in the mindset of vintage in the 90s as well, that suddenly living in London, I can tell you, it became a real thing. Like people were just. They were going to Portobello market. They were just really kind of looking for would feel special and unique. And you started to see the interest in people like Ozzie Clark and his dresses from the late 60s, early 70s. So really just this idea of something unique and something that you could say really kind of spoke to your own personal style, to me was what really kind of made it feel, in a way, more current. And I think since then, obviously, the layers around sustainability and the idea of not buying new has become perhaps more of a kind of cultural, for want of a better word, even political kind of statement, right? About the idea that, you know, old things are good, we shouldn't just be constantly buying new.
- [23:40]
Nicole Phelps
Right? And I think that the 24 hour a day, seven day a week coverage of celebrities now has created this sense of like, one upsmanship and gamesmanship. And all of the Kardashians and Jenners, you know, in particular, they are looking for the deepest, highest level designer cuts. And, you know, why are they doing that? Because Vogue, for one, is gonna be writing about it. Because it turns us on too, to see these incredible vintage, vintage finds. And it's become a real phenomenon lately, it seems. I mean, Kim Kardashian wearing the Marilyn Monroe Happy Birthday JFK dress on at the red carpet at the Met, which, you know, she took it off and wore a doppelganger at the actual party, I believe. But, I mean, it doesn't get bigger than that.
- [24:31]
Mark Holgate
No, not. Well, no, indeed. But also. But also, Lynne, you just did a story for me with Kerry Taylor about, you know, who to me is a kind of the kind of leading kind of figure in vintage auctions. Right?
- [24:47]
Lynn Yeager
I mean, she's getting. I mean, she's, you know, she deals in everything from kind of very early, early like 18th century stuff to the more contemporary designer. And she's getting Incredible prices. I was astonished by the prices that the clothes were realizing.
- [25:03]
Mark Holgate
So, yeah, it's particularly astonishing when it's things from a time when we can actually all remember it. It's not like some rare piece of 1950s couture that was from Dior, that was, you know, shot by Richard Avedon for Vogue or whatever. But this is.
- [25:16]
Lynn Yeager
No, it's just, you know, this is.
- [25:18]
Mark Holgate
Clothing that, you know, was kind of readily available. It's not even couture. I mean, she told me that a newspaper print John Galliano for Dior ready to wear dress went for some insane, insane. I can't remember, it was like five, five, maybe even six figures. But the prices are, you know, quite remarkable for vintage.
- [25:38]
Nicole Phelps
I'm curious, Lynn, about. Cause I think, I know you are quite as obsessed as you are. You're also price conscious. You are, you know, you think about, you dwell and so talk a little bit about your, you know, how you decide something is worth the money and how you are finding, you know, well priced vintage in a world, as Mark says, where everything is getting more and more expensive.
- [26:02]
Lynn Yeager
Well, I have to say, I mean, Current Affair in Brooklyn, the prices are pretty high on a lot of stuff. I'm always sort of taken aback by the prices, but it's still much, much more reasonable than, than new things. I think that, you know, it's basically the way you are about new clothes as well. It's just. It's just, you know, if it makes your heart sing, if you have to have it, then. I mean, I once bought at this vintage show. I was a big collector of reindeer cardigans. Cardigans from like the 40s and 50s and 60s that some people think are sort of like a cousin to like an ugly Christmas sweater. But to me there is nothing more divine than it. And of course always like with collectors, I always get carried away. It's like Mark's, you know, Margiela Zip Ups. It's like, did I need like, I probably had every vintage cardigan on the market at one time. So anyway, I bought this one and it was full of holes. It was really decrepit and the guy wanted like, I don't know, 200 bucks or something that was not like the right price. And my friends at the show with me were like, are you kidding? It's a disgusting piece of crap with holes in it. But somehow it spoke to me. So basically, I mean, you talk a lot about like condition and price and all that, but then, you know, it's just like a love affair. You know, it just goes out the window when something is speaking to you. But I mean, as I say, it is more. It is in general, even the most expensive thing at a vintage show is going to be much less than wandering around burned up. Goodbye. Just use.
- [27:38]
Nicole Phelps
We're going to take a quick break. More with Lynn in just a moment. I'm Alex Schwartz.
- [27:51]
Lynn Yeager
I'm Nomi Fry.
- [27:52]
Mark Holgate
I'm Vincent Cunningham. And this is Critics at Large, a New Yorker podcast for the culturally curious.
- [27:57]
Nicole Phelps
Each week we're going to talk about a big idea that's showing up across the cultural landscape, and we'll trace it through all the mediums we books, movies, television, music, art.
- [28:06]
Lynn Yeager
And I always want to talk about celebrity gossip, too, of course. What are you guys excited to cover in the next few months?
- [28:13]
Mark Holgate
There's a new translation of the Iliad that's coming out.
- [28:15]
Unknown Speaker
Emily Wilson, really excited to see whether.
- [28:18]
Mark Holgate
I can read the Iliad again, whether I'm that literate. I mean, the jury is out.
- [28:22]
Nicole Phelps
I can't wait to hear Adam Driver go again at an Italian accent in Michael Mann's Ferrari. He can't stop. I mean, and bless him, I can't wait.
- [28:30]
Lynn Yeager
Molto bene.
- [28:32]
Mark Holgate
Molto bene. We hope you'll join us for new episodes each Thursday. Follow Critics at Large today wherever you get podcasts.
- [28:41]
Nicole Phelps
You really don't want to miss this.
- [28:43]
Lynn Yeager
Don't, don't miss this.
- [28:44]
Nicole Phelps
Don't miss it.
- [28:45]
Lynn Yeager
See you soon.
- [28:50]
Mark Holgate
Lynne, talk to me. I mean, is there one piece of vintage clothing that you have that has a really kind of resonant story? Is there one thing that just.
- [28:58]
Lynn Yeager
They all do.
- [28:59]
Nicole Phelps
Tell us about your last love affair, maybe. What, what did you fall in love with most recently?
- [29:04]
Lynn Yeager
Well, I'm buying, I'm buying antique jewelry now. I'm not really buying the clothes. I'll buy an occasional piece of clothing. But, you know, like, if it's like a Roma Juli coat or something that's just like irresistible, even though I probably have one in my storage space. But I mean, I've been buying a lot of jewelry. Does that count as vintage?
- [29:25]
Nicole Phelps
For sure. Why did you, why have you changed over to jewelry? Just because you have so many clothes or.
- [29:30]
Lynn Yeager
No, it's a better investment. No, no, no. I'll tell you the truth, Nicole. The truth is when you're older, the vintage stuff doesn't look as cute. So like a little stain or a little hole, which is very charming when you're in your 20s. You know, little stockings, a hole in it on an older, an older person Needs better things. An older person needs new things. She can mix in a vintage handbag or scarf or something, but the whole out. And also because the cuteness of doing this, when in your 20s, like at the head to toe, 1920s, you look insane as an older person. I mean, you don't look insane in the same cute way that you did now. You just look, like, disturbed in a way. It's hard to explain. And there's women. There's women my age who can get away with it. But I feel I have to be very judicious in the. The addition of the vintage clothes.
- [30:27]
Nicole Phelps
I'm having a similar feeling about the Miu Miu bullet bra.
- [30:31]
Lynn Yeager
You're not getting that.
- [30:32]
Nicole Phelps
I know.
- [30:32]
Lynn Yeager
I'm too old. You're too old.
- [30:34]
Nicole Phelps
I'm too old, and it's breaking my heart. I think it looks.
- [30:37]
Lynn Yeager
No, no, you're not getting that. Yes, it's cute. And it's, you know, it's only cute because I remember I had this very important chat to me, although I'm sure that she never remembered it one second later. I was sitting in Massapequa with my mom in the playroom. That's what we used to call, like, the basement, the playroom. And she was wearing, like, I don't know, sweatpants and a sweatshirt or something. And I said, mommy, don't you miss those days when you wore, like, a beautiful shirtwaist and stockings and, you know, you had some beautiful things, and now look at what you're wearing. And she said, lenny, I hated wearing that stuff. It was really uncomfortable. It was really. She said, I love the way we dress now. I just. It was. It was really, you know, because you weren't. You couldn't really. You couldn't really move away from that. I mean, if you. If everyone was wearing a bullet bra, you think a bullet bra is a campy thing that you're gonna wear to a party. But if you are stuck in that stupid bullet bra and the horrible girdle with those things, what do you call those things that hung off the girdle that held the things up?
- [31:43]
Nicole Phelps
Garters. Garters.
- [31:44]
Lynn Yeager
Garters. Like rubbery, disgusting. R. Like, no. So you only want the bullet bra because of a sort of campy, almost like a movie costume kind of thing. You don't really want a bullet bra. And anyway, Nicole, now.
- [31:57]
Nicole Phelps
Sorry. Well, Lynn's got the last word on that.
- [32:01]
Lynn Yeager
But who can wear a bullet bra?
- [32:03]
Nicole Phelps
Who?
- [32:04]
Lynn Yeager
Mr. Holgate. Because that's a whole other extended level. It's a whole other Critique of bourgeois society. Think about it.
- [32:13]
Mark Holgate
Hopefully it will go with the Margiela is that front cardigan. Maybe I could just tease it a little and just pull the zip down on the cardigan. I'm also interested though, Lynne. The Internet must have. Surely. I know it has expanded your shopping.
- [32:31]
Lynn Yeager
It's the best. It's the absolute best thing ever.
- [32:35]
Mark Holgate
And you'll buy everything. You'll buy clothing, you'll buy jewelry, everything.
- [32:40]
Lynn Yeager
You know, I'll buy some things on. I mean, I have my searches. Yeah, the Internet is incredible. It opens up like. There used to be, like the first edition Mickey Mouse watch. The 1931 Mickey Mouse watch, which sold for like a dollar and saved the Waterbury watch company in the Depression. Everybody wanted that Mickey Mouse. I wanted the Mickey one. It's called In Mickey Collector Speak.
- [33:00]
Mark Holgate
Collector Speak. Yes.
- [33:01]
Lynn Yeager
And so I finally found it in this field in Pennsylvania at this show. It was $175 back when I didn't really have it, but I bought it anyway. The Mickey one was a lifelong search. That now takes two seconds. So, yeah, we love it.
- [33:18]
Mark Holgate
Can I ask you, Lynn, you and Mickey Boardman and Sally Singer and Chloe Sevignay making a kind of guest star appearance, have done these kind of sales the last year or two, which have been kind of very well attended and very well attended by, shall I say, people probably slightly younger. And so I'd love to get. What's your generational take on vintage? I mean, you know, it was something that you used to kind of set yourself apart and look a certain way. And in some ways probably rejected a lot of the look and the mores of that kind of particular period. But what do you think kids now are. Not to make myself sound like a thousand years old, but what do you think younger people now are?
- [34:00]
Lynn Yeager
They just wanna look cute and they don't have any prejudice. They don't really know anything. So, like, you know, it could be from. As far as they're concerned, it could be from the 1830s or the 1930s. They don't really know anything. But I think there's just a general, you know, if it's cute and sort of sexy or kind of fun. There's also a complete gender liberation. So when we had our sale, the guys were just buying, like this guy wanted. I don't know, it was this Molly Goddard skirt. And he was just so. He wanted it so badly. And he didn't really have enough money for it. I think Chloe had it and Chloe was just like, oh, just take it. Or just give me like, 50 bucks. And he was so excited. But there never was like, oh, look at guys. It was completely gender. Gender free. Completely. You know, remember when I had those All Saints dresses with all the ropes on them?
- [34:50]
Mark Holgate
I do indeed.
- [34:51]
Lynn Yeager
I had three of them. You know, I always have, like multiples and a guy bought one of those dresses and was very delighted by it. So. So, you know, obviously I noticed that and, oh, I'll tell you what else I noticed. These kids today, like, remember when we were growing up, like 500 bucks was like really serious money. Even 100, you'd be like, oh, 100. They are in a different universe when it comes to money. Like, you could charge them a lot. Remember that. For the vintage market.
- [35:21]
Nicole Phelps
We'll tell the pricers.
- [35:22]
Mark Holgate
Thank you.
- [35:23]
Nicole Phelps
We'll be sure to tell the prices.
- [35:24]
Lynn Yeager
Don't be shy on the prices.
- [35:26]
Nicole Phelps
Well, we hope we see you at the vintage market.
- [35:28]
Lynn Yeager
Lyn, where is the vintage market?
- [35:31]
Mark Holgate
It is in Soho. I will text you the address. Lyn, we'll expect to see you.
- [35:36]
Lynn Yeager
Should I do a guest appearance with autograph sign? I think you should.
- [35:39]
Mark Holgate
Yeah. Yeah.
- [35:40]
Lynn Yeager
Mark, are you going to go?
- [35:41]
Mark Holgate
Of course. I'm probably going to buy back the vintage cardigan.
- [35:46]
Lynn Yeager
I'm probably going to buy my aviator hat.
- [35:50]
Mark Holgate
Nicole's going to buy it. Then I'm going to say, Nicole, I'll give you. Here's another hundred dollars. Yeah, you know.
- [35:56]
Lynn Yeager
Oh, this happened to me the first sale with Choma. I had this come to go scarf and she put it on and she looked so cute. I said, chalmes, I think I want it back. I don't think I can sell it to you.
- [36:05]
Mark Holgate
Yeah, vintage never goes. It never disappears. As you're out of interest, Lynne, who do you think wears vintage well now, other than yourself? Who do you think?
- [36:13]
Lynn Yeager
Well, Choma. Fabulous.
- [36:15]
Mark Holgate
Yes. Shoma Nardi is a wonderful vintage wearer and was often a partner in crime along with Hamish Bowles. I seem to remember when we would go to shows in London, I probably shouldn't be saying this, not to out anyone, but I feel like there might have been very early trips to vintage. A vintage market in a vintage fair, I should say, sorry, in London during the collections. And I think I might have been going to see, I don't know, Anya Hindmarsh or Emilia Wickstead. And you guys would be off buying.
- [36:43]
Lynn Yeager
Yeah, we used to go to Frock Me Vintage. We went. Oh, and that time that we went to like Hammersmith Vintage and Hamish, like, put his hand in like a bag and fished out this, like, Chanel jacket. And the dealer, who I knew was a sort of Irish woman, she was tipsy a lot of times. Anyway, she didn't know that it was a Chanel jacket. And he bought it for a very reasonable price. And he was shaking, and he said, we have to leave right now. As if she's going to go chasing after him and say, wait, I just realized he was shaking like a leaf. So, yes, there are still things out there. But also, you know, the knowledge is power with vintage. I mean, he knew what it was. So do you think that all my Demna. Sally pointed out to me that I own any number of Demna Balenciaga bags from the period when they were kind of campy and cute? Do you think they're gonna be, like, a valuable thing now?
- [37:34]
Mark Holgate
Why don't you bring. Why don't you donate them to the sale and we'll find out?
- [37:38]
Lynn Yeager
No, because, you know, I have the Paris one, the New York one, and, like a floral one, and probably other ones. I loved it. I loved those bags back in the day. So I hope that he'll.
- [37:50]
Nicole Phelps
I think you should hold on to those. And I think the value. The value will accumulate.
- [37:55]
Lynn Yeager
Yeah.
- [37:55]
Mark Holgate
Yes.
- [37:55]
Lynn Yeager
Yeah.
- [37:56]
Mark Holgate
Or not exactly. Well, that's. It's also a bit of a gamble, right? But you buy it because you love it. And that you said, I don't buy.
- [38:02]
Lynn Yeager
I don't buy to resell ever. I'm a. I'm a. I'm terrible at reselling. I always take a loss. I'm a disaster at reselling. I'm a buyer, not a seller, sadly.
- [38:14]
Nicole Phelps
All right, on that note, thank you, Lynn. Thank you very much.
- [38:18]
Lynn Yeager
Oh, my God. That was just exhausting. Well, I hope he was.
- [38:22]
Mark Holgate
It was fun.
- [38:25]
Nicole Phelps
That's it for the run through. See you Thursday.
- [38:38]
Unknown Speaker
The run through is produced by Chelsea Daniel, Alex DePalma and Joanna Solotarov. It's engineered by Jake Loomis and James Yost.
- [38:46]
Lynn Yeager
It is mixed by Mike Kutchman.
- [38:48]
Unknown Speaker
Stephanie Karaoke is our executive producer, and Chris Bannon is Conde Nast's head of global audio.
- [39:03]
Lynn Yeager
Hi, it's Choma Nardi. If you're not on the Vogue app yet, what the hell are you doing? You can follow along with me and other editors as we talk about everything happening in fashion. Think you're already a fashion expert? Well, find out how your Runway IQ stacks up against the Vogue community with an all new Runway genius leaderboard. So download the Vogue app today and you'll never miss a moment from prx.