The Run-Through with Vogue
Episode: Notes on a Newsy Milan Fashion Week
Hosts: Nicole Phelps (Director, Vogue Runway) & Francesca Ragazzi (Head of Editorial Content, Vogue Italia)
Date: September 30, 2025
Overview
Nicole Phelps and Francesca Ragazzi offer a sweeping behind-the-scenes look at Milan Fashion Week, discussing landmark debuts, vibrant new trends, tributes to iconic designers, and those unforgettable front-row surprises. Their analysis centers on Milan's cinematic atmosphere this season, generational changes in design houses, and how both legendary and up-and-coming names are reshaping the city’s fashion narrative. The episode combines industry insight, personal anecdotes, and witty banter, bringing listeners to the energetic heart of Italian fashion.
Key Discussion Points
1. Milan’s Cinematic Season and Headline Moments
- Milan Fashion Week felt like a “cinematic” season, kicked off by a movie presentation at Gucci by Demna that blurred the line between fashion and film, complete with lookbooks featuring Italian cultural stereotypes and a star-studded premiere.
- "It started in a very inspiring way with the movie presented by Demna at Gucci… It was so smart to see the clothes right on people wearing it in a believable context." – Francesca Ragazzi [02:32]
- Venue transformations were notable, with the stock exchange turned into a lavish Art Nouveau theater and hidden gems like museums used for shows.
- “I was really impressed with the way they completely changed the stock exchange...it was so starry… Gwyneth Paltrow, Serena Williams…” – Nicole Phelps [03:17]
2. Major Debuts and Generational Shifts
- Four designer debuts this season, a record in Milan:
- Dario at Versace: Praised for modernizing the brand, referencing the '80s while creating a lived-in, aspirational atmosphere.
- “I absolutely loved what Dario did at Versace…He did a very sophisticated job.” – Francesca Ragazzi [04:06]
- Dario introduced the city to the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana, a hidden treasure.
- Generational change noted in the crowd’s energy and response.
- “Every young person I talked to after the show was mad for it. Totally, totally crazy.” – Nicole Phelps [07:10]
- Simone Bellotti at Jill Sander: Returned the brand to its roots, emphasizing real-world wearability and community.
- “He brought some of that real world attitude that he had at Bally...it was a very honest show with a great balance.” – Francesca Ragazzi [11:38]
- Discussion highlighted the importance and difficulty of generational transitions.
- “No shift without friction.” – Nicole Phelps [08:01]
- Dario at Versace: Praised for modernizing the brand, referencing the '80s while creating a lived-in, aspirational atmosphere.
3. Standout Shows & Innovative Approaches
- Diesel by Glenn Martens: Eschewed a traditional show for a citywide “urban egg hunt” using interactive installations.
- “This is democratic, this is fun. I want to include the city…This is what Diesel has to be.” – Francesca Ragazzi [09:28]
- Fendi: Opening of Palazzo Fendi on Monte Napoleone was a highlight, signifying the return of significant brick-and-mortar experiences.
- “I really believe in the return of physical retail and the retail being the manifesto of the brand.” – Francesca Ragazzi [12:44]
- Prada: Emphasis on wearability, innovative non-traditional shapes, and a reference to more natural light in their usual venue.
- “Having gone there for years…I never knew there were all these windows…It was nice to see the sunlight pouring through and on that bright orange floor.” – Nicole Phelps [14:36]
- “What people retain from Prada is the message…real clothes today…a wearable way of looking at Prada.” – Francesca Ragazzi [15:41]
4. Celebrating Giorgio Armani and the Power of Legacy
- Emotional remembrances following Armani’s death, including a major exhibition at Pinacoteca Brera, and a city-wide display of archival pieces coordinated by Armani himself.
- “Everything that we are seeing these days…has been orchestrated in every detail by Mr. Armani himself.” – Francesca Ragazzi [18:12]
- Reflections on Armani’s humility, meticulousness, and enduring impact on Italian identity.
- “To me, he's a gentleman…always very rigorous…putting always the people at the center.” – Francesca Ragazzi [20:08]
- The fashion community’s personal reverence: hosts sharing their searches for vintage Armani pieces for the anniversary.
- “I admit to looking for vintage Armani on the RealReal…and someone had bought it so bad on me, I should have gotten it.” – Nicole Phelps [19:20]
5. Next-Gen Designers & Industry Satire
- The duo visits younger talents:
- Marco Rambaldi, Institution by Galib Ghaznov (noted for craftsmanship with artisans from Georgia and Uzbekistan).
- Sune: Presented their final "show" as a conceptual auction, making a pointed commentary on the struggle for independents in an industry dominated by big houses.
- “Instead of doing another chapter of creativity, they are just stepping out of their own brand creativity.” – Francesca Ragazzi [23:14]
- Le Double J by J.J. Martin: A celebration of American energy in Milan, with an emphasis on community, wellness, and maximalist print.
6. Notable Runway and Brand Highlights
- Todd’s by Matteo Tamberini: Gaining confidence, leveraging Italian style, and focusing smartly on signature footwear.
- “If you have a hit shoe, you can really make a mark in fashion.” – Nicole Phelps [25:14]
- Ferragamo by Maximilian Davis: Commended for infusing classic elegance and navigating Italian design as a young, foreign talent.
- “You have to be in a domestic ecosystem for a long time before understanding what it is really…That requires time.” – Francesca Ragazzi [26:57]
- Dolce & Gabbana: The huge front-row moment—the filming of “Devil Wears Prada 2” with Meryl Streep (as Miranda Priestly), Stanley Tucci, and Simone Ashley—dazzled the crowd.
- “Mary…in her Miranda Priestly outfit…Not Meryl. Miranda arrived.” – Francesca Ragazzi [27:56]
- Domenico Dolce expressed hope to move away from “exercise clothes on the streets,” embracing stylish pajamas as the next big thing.
- “It's time to end the reign of exercise clothes on the streets…maybe pajamas are the solution.” – Nicole Phelps [30:29]
- Bottega Veneta by Louise Trotter: Strong debut focused on pragmatic, woman-centered design and innovative sustainability using recycled fiberglass.
- “There are already elements that are only hers.” – Francesca Ragazzi [32:38]
7. Vogue Italia’s Cinemoto Club
- Ragazzi recaps the inaugural fashion-film festival aimed at bringing fashion lovers into intimate movie theaters, attracting both industry insiders and general readers.
- “People went early in the morning and late at night…The room was full and it was a Saturday night.” – Francesca Ragazzi [33:17]
- A surprise visit: Meryl Streep and her daughter Louisa Jacobson attended incognito.
- “They brought her mother one morning in incognito to see the documentary on Diane Vreeland and paid their tickets…” – Francesca Ragazzi [34:05]
Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments
-
On the new generation of designers:
“No shift without friction.” – Nicole Phelps [08:01] -
On Milan’s hidden gems & authenticity:
“I like that our generations…are bringing people to hidden gems, like movie theaters that are a bit not mainstream.” – Francesca Ragazzi [05:12] -
On Diesel’s show disruption:
“Sometimes we don’t need another show, but we need a new way to approach things. And he always delivers.” – Francesca Ragazzi [09:28] -
On iconic Armani:
“I was really moved…there were pieces from throughout his career with a real focus on the early 90s… over 30 years old, but it has such a resonance.” – Nicole Phelps [16:28] -
On witnessing movie magic at Dolce & Gabbana:
“It looked really like a set for that scene to be taken. And how fascinating to be witnessing a real movie moment.” – Francesca Ragazzi [28:31] -
On generational appeal at Versace:
“Every young person I talked to after the show was mad for it. Totally, totally crazy.” – Nicole Phelps [07:10]
Key Timestamps
- 02:32 – Cinematic energy & Gucci’s movie presentation
- 04:06 – Versace debut & nostalgic modernity
- 09:28 – Diesel’s “urban egg hunt” and participatory fashion
- 11:38 – Jill Sander’s return to roots
- 14:36 – Prada’s airy space and wearability focus
- 16:28 – Emporio Armani tribute and museum exhibition
- 21:00 – Le Double J’s community and print
- 22:07 – Emerging designers: Marco Rambaldi, Institution by Galib Ghaznov, Sune
- 24:36 – Todd’s and Ferragamo: shoes as statement pieces
- 27:41 – Dolce & Gabbana’s front-row “Devil Wears Prada” scene
- 32:38 – Bottega Veneta and Louise Trotter’s debut
- 33:17 – Vogue Italia's Cinemoto Club film festival
Tone & Style
The dialogue is effusive, analytical, and frequently lighthearted, oscillating between personal reminiscence, sharp fashion critique, and cultural observation. Both hosts maintain a conversational, inside-baseball tone, peppered with Italian expressions and genuine excitement about Milan’s unique fashion culture.
Conclusion
This episode offers a layered, vivid account of Milan Fashion Week’s newsiest moments, seasoned with human warmth, fondness for tradition, and enthusiasm for where Italian fashion is heading next. For anyone seeking insights into how runway, city life, and cultural narratives collide in Milan, this episode is a front-row ticket.