Episode Summary: Rick Owens Is Finding a Balance Between Control and Collapse

Podcast Title: The Run-Through with Vogue
Host: Nicole Phelps, Director of Vogue Runway
Guest: Rick Owens, Renowned Fashion Designer
Release Date: June 24, 2025
Episode Title: Rick Owens Is Finding a Balance Between Control and Collapse

Introduction

In this episode of The Run-Through with Vogue, host Nicole Phelps engages in an insightful conversation with legendary fashion designer Rick Owens. Recorded in Owens' Paris studio, the discussion revolves around his upcoming retrospective exhibition, Temple of Love, at the Palais Galliera, his journey in the fashion industry, and his advice for aspiring designers.

Exhibition Insights: Temple of Love

Nicole Phelps (00:31):
Introduces the episode and mentions the focus on Rick Owens and his retrospective exhibition.

Rick Owens (03:19):
Explains the genesis of the exhibition title, Temple of Love, highlighting his desire for a more nuanced and delicate presentation compared to his previous, more bombastic retrospectives. Owens emphasizes collaboration with curator Alexandra Sampson, valuing the balance between his creative vision and the museum's esteemed standards.

“I wanted to be the opposite of [voracious consumption]. I wanted to be consistent. I wanted to be loyal. I wanted to be faithful.”
— Rick Owens, 21:56

Legacy and Recognition

Nicole Phelps (05:51):
Acknowledges Owens as the third living designer to receive a retrospective at Palais Galliera, following Azzedine Alaia and Martin Margiela, and probes his feelings about this honor.

Rick Owens (06:19):
Reflects on his unique position in the fashion world, attributing his success to a direct collaboration with factories, bypassing traditional design studios. This approach, coupled with his uncompromising vision, has ensured that his creations remain true to his original intent.

“I think that has always been our main strength.”
— Rick Owens, 08:13

Early Days and Evolution

Nicole Phelps (08:13):
Recalls a personal anecdote about visiting Owens’ early studio near Les Deux Cafe in Los Angeles, emphasizing the cultural hub it became for fashion insiders.

Rick Owens (08:56):
Shares the humble beginnings of his partnership with Michel Lamy, detailing their resourcefulness and improvisational spirit in establishing Owens' brand from scratch.

Nicole Phelps (09:57):
Brings up Owens' first Runway show around the time of the September 11 attacks, seeking insights into his initial foray into mainstream fashion events.

Rick Owens (10:07):
Describes the serendipitous encounter with Anna Wintour’s team, leading to his first Runway show. Reflects on the challenges and apprehensions he faced transitioning from a niche designer to a mainstream presence, especially post-9/11.

“I’m 40. I was 40, and, you know, I’ll always wonder if I hadn’t tried, so what the hell?”
— Rick Owens, 13:26

Design Philosophy and Runway Evolution

Nicole Phelps (14:39):
Observes the transformation in Owens' runway shows from their understated beginnings to the masterful spectacles they are today, noting his use of dramatic elements like smoke machines and rose petals.

Rick Owens (15:01):
Narrates his evolution in designing runway shows, initially feeling uncertain but gradually gaining confidence. Emphasizes his commitment to authenticity, ensuring that runway pieces are wearable and reflective of his true artistic vision.

“I was thinking, how can I introduce a weirdness that is palatable enough and convincing enough, I can influence maybe the way people think.”
— Rick Owens, 15:51

Cultivating Devotion Through Unique Aesthetics

Nicole Phelps (18:54):
Comments on the devoted following of Owens’ fashion shows, highlighting the striking and otherworldly appearances of his models.

Rick Owens (19:21):
Explores the connection between his designs and his audience, attributing the devotion to creating a space where individuality and uniqueness are celebrated. He shares a personal story about being inspired by David Bowie’s Diamond Dogs album cover, which resonated deeply with his own struggles with identity and acceptance.

“It was such a release, and it showed me that there was a place I could go. There it was. It was a haven.”
— Rick Owens, 19:21

Collaboration and Self-Reflection in the Exhibition

Nicole Phelps (22:47):
Inquires about the collaborative process with curator Alexandra Sampson and how it has impacted Owens’ self-perception.

Rick Owens (23:03):
Discusses the collaborative dynamics with Sampson, noting his limited initial understanding of the curation process. Mentions specific elements of the exhibition, such as a statue of himself, which symbolize his artistic and personal balance between control and collapse.

“There is a balance between control and collapse. I've always been attracted to both extremes, and how do I find the right balance for me?”
— Rick Owens, 24:27

Influence on Future Collections

Nicole Phelps (26:30):
Questions how working on Temple of Love has influenced Owens’ upcoming collection and future creative directions.

Rick Owens (26:46):
Shares his approach to maintaining consistency in his work while still seeking relevance and movement. Emphasizes the importance of integrity and staying true to one’s artistic journey, expressing a desire to inspire others by maintaining pureness in his creations.

“I don't want somebody new who's fresh on the moment and exciting, who's gonna turn around and refute what they've done before. I want somebody who has really meant it, and that's who I want to be anyway.”
— Rick Owens, 26:46

Advice for Aspiring Designers

Nicole Phelps (28:25):
Addresses the challenges young, independent designers face in breaking through and sustaining their businesses, seeking Owens' advice.

Rick Owens (28:46):
Admits his lack of conventional advice, reflecting on his unexpected success and the difference in the current fashion landscape compared to his early days. Encourages focusing on the work itself and striving for excellence rather than seeking growth for its own sake.

“The work itself needs to be the goal. I was saying, I don't want to get bigger I just want to get better.”
— Rick Owens, 28:46

Closing Remarks

Nicole Phelps expresses excitement for the upcoming exhibition, and Rick Owens extends an invitation for a private tour. The episode concludes with credits acknowledging the production team.

Notable Quotes with Timestamps

• Rick Owens (03:19):
  “I wanted to be the opposite of [voracious consumption]. I wanted to be consistent. I wanted to be loyal. I wanted to be faithful.”

• Rick Owens (08:13):
  “I think that has always been our main strength.”

• Rick Owens (10:07):
  “I’m 40. I was 40, and, you know, I’ll always wonder if I hadn’t tried, so what the hell?”

• Rick Owens (15:51):
  “I was thinking, how can I introduce a weirdness that is palatable enough and convincing enough, I can influence maybe the way people think.”

• Rick Owens (19:21):
  “It was such a release, and it showed me that there was a place I could go. There it was. It was a haven.”

• Rick Owens (24:27):
  “There is a balance between control and collapse. I've always been attracted to both extremes, and how do I find the right balance for me?”

• Rick Owens (26:46):
  “I don't want somebody new who's fresh on the moment and exciting, who's gonna turn around and refute what they've done before. I want somebody who has really meant it, and that's who I want to be anyway.”

• Rick Owens (28:46):
  “The work itself needs to be the goal. I was saying, I don't want to get bigger I just want to get better.”

Conclusion

This episode offers a profound glimpse into Rick Owens' artistic journey, his unwavering commitment to authenticity, and his thoughtful approach to fashion as a medium for personal and cultural expression. Owens' reflections on balance, both personal and professional, provide valuable insights for listeners aspiring to carve their own path in the fashion industry.

End of Summary