Podcast Summary: Schiaparelli’s Daniel Roseberry on Pop Divas, “Mice Feeding,” and Winning at the CFDA Awards
Released on October 29, 2024, "The Run-Through with Vogue" features an in-depth conversation between host Nicole Phelps and Daniel Roseberry, the Creative Director of Schiaparelli. This episode delves into Roseberry's transformative leadership at Schiaparelli, his design inspirations, industry perspectives, and personal anecdotes.
1. Celebrating Success: CFDA International Designer of the Year
Nicole Phelps opens the conversation by congratulating Daniel Roseberry on receiving the International Designer of the Year award from the CFDA. Roseberry expresses his humble gratitude and surreal feelings about the achievement.
Daniel Roseberry [01:33]: "I think it's one of those things that doesn't really make sense until you're on stage and it's all happening. And I, yeah, I feel it's surreal."
2. Revitalizing Schiaparelli: From Sleeping Beauty to Global Icon
Discussing his five-year tenure at Schiaparelli, Roseberry reflects on the brand's remarkable transformation under his direction. He emphasizes the dedication and hands-on approach that propelled Schiaparelli into a globally recognized name with substantial social media influence.
Daniel Roseberry [02:05]: "With a very small fraction of the resources that my contemporaries have had, we've really tried to punch above our weight and compete on every level."
3. A Day in the Life of a Creative Director
Roseberry provides insights into his daily routine, highlighting a schedule packed with meetings, fittings, and reviews. He underscores his commitment to maintaining close, one-on-one connections with his team, rejecting the mythologized, detached image often associated with creative directors.
Daniel Roseberry [03:40]: "All of my day is spent in meetings, reviews, or fittings, period."
4. Design Philosophy: Blending American Influences with Parisian Elegance
Exploring his Spring 2025 ready-to-wear collection, Roseberry discusses the fusion of American iconography with the luxurious Parisian aesthetic. He shares how personal elements, like his faithful denim uniform, infuse the collection with authenticity and relatability.
Daniel Roseberry [05:17]: "There's some kismet that happens between merging the American iconography and recontextualizing it in this very unreachable, unattainable place, Vendome, Parisian gilded world."
5. The Role of Pop Music in Fashion Design
Roseberry reveals his deep connection to pop music and its influence on his creative process. He likens designing couture to producing a pop song—aiming to create memorable, hook-laden pieces that resonate with both the elite and inspire the masses.
Daniel Roseberry [14:41]: "Making fashion very similar to the act of making pop music, because it has to be something that... is worn by the elite few. But I want it to be enjoyed and inspirational to the masses."
6. Navigating the New York Fashion Scene
Addressing the evolution of New York Fashion Week, Roseberry discusses the shift in the American fashion landscape. He observes a move away from traditional luxury towards a more raw, culturally driven scene, emphasizing the need to attract and retain American luxury clientele.
Daniel Roseberry [09:43]: "I think New York fashion is evolving accordingly and engaging with a different kind of clientele, that it's less ladies who lunch. Right. And it's more people who are creating culture."
7. Schiaparelli’s Commitment to Authenticity and Exclusivity
Roseberry highlights Schiaparelli's strategy of not paying celebrities to wear their designs, differentiating the brand from others that rely heavily on paid placements. This approach fosters genuine excitement and devotion among clients, positioning Schiaparelli as an alternative to mass luxury.
Daniel Roseberry [12:42]: "We do not make fashion according to a marketing calendar every season. Our intention is to surprise, thrill, and delight the client."
8. Expanding Horizons: From Fashion to Film with CAA
Discussing his recent signing with Creative Artists Agency (CAA), Roseberry shares his aspirations to venture into costume design for film. Inspired by classic movies like Moulin Rouge, he hopes to bring his design expertise to the silver screen, aiming for accolades such as an Oscar.
Daniel Roseberry [23:10]: "I want to design costumes for something. I want... to design costumes for something I want an Oscar."
9. Guiding the Next Generation: Advice for Aspiring Designers
Roseberry offers candid advice to young designers, urging them to "copy the Greats" as a pathway to finding their unique voices. He emphasizes the importance of mastering established techniques and styles before striving for originality.
Daniel Roseberry [31:10]: "My advice would be to copy copy the Greats. And don't be so obsessed and consumed with being so original so early."
10. Personal Reflections: Balancing Success with Community
Reflecting on his personal life, Roseberry shares his efforts to maintain connections and a sense of community despite the demanding nature of the fashion industry. Through rituals like "mice feeding," he symbolizes storing up love and support to stay grounded.
Daniel Roseberry [38:30]: "When I go back, I'm mice feeding because I'm basically... I'm storing up on love and community and I'm taking that with me back to this city."
11. Influences and Inspirations: From Disney to Michael Kors
Roseberry recounts the inspirations that ignited his passion for fashion, from childhood fascinations with Disney to pivotal moments like discovering Michael Kors. These experiences shaped his creative vision and commitment to storytelling through fashion.
Daniel Roseberry [38:48]: "The person that invited me to think about fashion was Michael Kors."
12. Final Thoughts: Embracing Opportunities and Encouraging Future Talent
Concluding the interview, Roseberry expresses his enthusiasm for meeting students and mentoring emerging talents. He values the fresh perspectives and boundless dreams that students bring, finding their energy restorative and inspiring.
Daniel Roseberry [33:35]: "I just find it so restorative to be with people who are still dreaming really big and who have an unadulterated sense of potential."
Conclusion
Daniel Roseberry's conversation on "The Run-Through with Vogue" offers a comprehensive look into his visionary leadership at Schiaparelli, his design ethos, and his aspirations beyond the fashion runway. His dedication to authenticity, creativity, and mentorship underscores his significant impact on the fashion industry.
Notable Quotes with Timestamps:
- On Achieving the CFDA Award: “I feel it's surreal.” [01:33]
- On Transforming Schiaparelli: “We've really tried to punch above our weight and compete on every level.” [02:05]
- On Daily Routine: “All of my day is spent in meetings, reviews, or fittings, period.” [03:40]
- On Design Fusion: “Merging the American iconography and recontextualizing it in this very unreachable, unattainable place...” [05:17]
- On Pop Music Influence: “Making fashion very similar to the act of making pop music...” [14:41]
- On New York Fashion Evolution: “It's more people who are creating culture.” [09:43]
- On Schiaparelli’s Strategy: “Our intention is to surprise, thrill, and delight the client.” [12:42]
- On Expanding to Film: “I want to design costumes for something... I want an Oscar.” [23:10]
- On Advice for Students: “Copy copy the Greats... originality can come later.” [31:10]
- On Balancing Success: “I'm mice feeding because I'm storing up on love and community...” [38:30]
- On Inspirations: “The person that invited me to think about fashion was Michael Kors.” [38:48]
- On Mentoring: “I just find it so restorative to be with people who are still dreaming really big...” [33:35]
This summary encapsulates the essence of Daniel Roseberry's interview on "The Run-Through with Vogue," highlighting his achievements, design philosophy, industry insights, and personal reflections.
