Summary of "The Most Impactful Shows of the Century So Far (Editors' Choice)"
The Run-Through with Vogue
Release Date: January 16, 2025

Introduction

In this special episode of The Run-Through with Vogue, host Nicole Phelps delves into the most impactful fashion shows of the past century, as selected by Vogue editors and creatives. Building upon a previous episode that featured readers' top picks, this edition spotlights editor-chosen highlights that underscore pivotal moments and transformative designers in the fashion industry.

Reader's Choice Recap

Before transitioning to the editors' selections, Nicole Phelps briefly revisits the readers' list from the prior episode. The audience had curated their top 25 most impactful shows, with significant entries such as:

• Versace Spring 2018: Celebrated as the rebirth of the supermodel era, Donatella Versace honored her late brother Johnny by featuring iconic models like Naomi Campbell and Cindy Crawford, alongside newer faces like Kaia Gerber. The collection paid homage to Johnny's 90s designs, marking a nostalgic yet forward-looking moment in fashion ([01:56]).

• Tom Ford's Eponymous Debut (2010): Noteworthy for its exclusivity, Ford restricted photography to a single designer photographer, creating an aura of mystery and anticipation around the show. Esteemed personalities like Beyoncé and Lauren Hutton graced the runway, although limited access left many yearning for more ([04:38]).

• Loewe Spring 2023: Jonathan Anderson's collection was highlighted for its innovative "pixel look" and integration of internet meme culture into high fashion. This collection juxtaposed glitch aesthetics with historical fashion elements, reflecting a seamless blend of past and present ([07:21]).

• Saint Laurent Fall 2023: Antoni Vaccarello's designs, particularly the exaggerated shoulders reminiscent of American football, were lauded for empowering women to take up space. The collection drew inspiration from cinematic elements like Working Girl, blending sophistication with bold statement pieces ([09:04]).

Editors' Choice Highlights

Transitioning from readers' selections, the editors present their own list of impactful shows that, while not making the readers' top 25, hold significant importance in fashion history. Key highlights include:

1. Balenciaga Fall 2007 – Nicolas Ghesquière

• Impact: Ghesquière's collection was a tour de force, blending multicultural elements with collegiate aesthetics. The show influenced everyday fashion, inspiring trends such as scarf wrapping techniques and the incorporation of jodhpur pants into contemporary wardrobes.

• Notable Quote: Virginia Smith remarked, "It changed the way you looked at your own wardrobe. It was so influential in that regard." ([19:00])

2. Prada Spring 2008 – Mitya Kulenovic

• Impact: The "Fairies Collection" introduced vibrant colors and psychedelic prints, merging Ossie Clark-inspired silhouettes with modern motifs. This unexpected fusion resulted in a cult classic revered by vintage enthusiasts.

• Notable Quote: Mark Guiducci shared his admiration, stating, "It was like Ossie Clarke meets FernGully. It was the antithesis of what you might expect, making it an immediate cult classic." ([21:47])

3. Rick Owens Spring 2014

• Impact: Known for his perpetual coolness and multidisciplinary approach, Rick Owens’ shows are a staple of Paris Fashion Week. His ability to blend Goth aesthetics with functional design has cultivated a dedicated following.

• Notable Quote: Mark Guiducci described Owens as "the ultimate cool designer," emphasizing his influence on a diverse fashion audience ([23:26]).

4. Celine Spring 2014 – Phoebe Philo

• Impact: Phoebe Philo's collection marked a departure from her signature boho style, embracing bold colors and prints. This collection resonated deeply with audiences, exemplifying sophisticated yet comfortable fashion tailored for modern women.

• Notable Quote: Chamma Nadi highlighted the collection's complexity, stating, "It belongs to grunge...magritte's, 'this is not a pipe.' It was what it was, and it's not what it is." ([13:15])

5. Gucci Fall 2015 – Alessandro Michele's Debut

• Impact: Michele's debut transformed Gucci with a vibrant, eclectic aesthetic inspired by Roman culture. His integration of vintage elements and maximalist designs redefined brand identity and influenced global fashion trends.

• Notable Quote: Chamma Nadi praised Michele's genius, noting, "Everything was fully formed at that debut show. It was an incredible show when you go back." ([30:00])

6. Balenciaga Fall 2020 – Demna Gvasalia's Debut

• Impact: Demna's first show for Balenciaga elevated workwear to couture, challenging traditional luxury norms. His innovative approach, including unconventional materials and reimagined silhouettes, sparked conversations about inclusivity and the degradation of luxury.

• Notable Quote: Chamma Nadi reflected on the show’s originality, stating, "Everything in that show was recognizable, but totally reimagined in a way that was astonishing." ([34:11])

Key Discussions and Insights

Throughout the episode, the editors engage in insightful discussions about the factors that contribute to a fashion show's impact:

• Nostalgia vs. Innovation: The balance between honoring past influences and pushing creative boundaries is a recurring theme. For instance, Versace Spring 2018 fused 90s nostalgia with modern designs, while Loewe Spring 2023 embraced internet culture to innovate ([03:20], [07:21]).

• Influence of Social Media: Mark Guiducci pointed out the role of Instagram in shaping modern fashion spectacles, suggesting that algorithm-driven exposure has heightened the importance of visually striking shows ([04:38], [15:47]).

• Designer Multidisciplinarity: Designers like Rick Owens and Alessandro Michele exemplify the trend of blending fashion with other creative disciplines, such as furniture design and film production, enhancing their multifaceted influence ([10:38], [24:33]).

• Inclusivity and Diversity: The episode underscores the importance of diverse representation and inclusive design philosophies, as seen in Balenciaga and Rick Owens' contributions to broadening fashion narratives ([25:39], [25:57]).

• Personal Impact vs. Industry Impact: The editors debate whether their selections are based on personal favorites or broader industry significance, ultimately leaning towards the latter to highlight transformative moments ([38:25], [38:35]).

Notable Quotes

• Mark Guiducci on Instagram's Influence: "As Instagram has habituated our eyes to seeing Runway images, designers need to create something that's gonna stand out." ([15:47])

• Virginia Smith on Antoni Vaccarello's Saint Laurent Collection: "Anthony gave them the clothes to do that, and he continues to do, like, incredible collections. So I have a huge amount of respect for him and what he's doing there." ([09:24])

• Chamma Nadi on Jonathan Anderson's Loewe Collection: "It's really caught in the moment between what you expect and what it actually is. And I love that idea." ([08:13])

• Nicole Phelps on Phoebe Philo's Return to Celine: "She had gone away to start a family and take her kids, and with her return, she brought a completely different take that strengthened our connections to her." ([28:32])

Conclusion and Final Thoughts

As the episode wraps up, the editors reflect on the nature of impact within the fashion industry. They emphasize that the most memorable shows are often those that represent significant shifts or daring creativity. The conversation highlights the enduring relevance of taking artistic risks and the collective experience of fashion as both an individual and communal expression.

• Chamma Nadi's Insight: "When you dare, it matters. That's what these shows and the list represent." ([38:50])

• Mark Guiducci on Missed Opportunities: Sharing a personal anecdote, Mark underscores the importance of being present for transformative moments, emphasizing that the essence of impactful fashion lies in these unforgettable experiences ([40:54]).

The editors conclude with an optimistic outlook towards future fashion seasons, anticipating more groundbreaking shows and continued evolution within the industry.

Notable Contributors:

• Nicole Phelps: Director of Vogue Runway
• Chamma Nadi: Head of British Vogue
• Chloe Mal: Editor of Vogue.com
• Virginia Smith: Vogue Editor
• Mark Guiducci: Fashion Critic, Washington Post

Additional Information:

For a comprehensive exploration of the shows discussed, listeners are encouraged to visit the Vogue app and site, where detailed rundowns and visuals accompany the insights shared in this episode.