The Run-Through with Vogue: Episode Summary

Episode Title: Three Designers On What it Takes to Run an Independent Label in 2025
Release Date: February 25, 2025

In this insightful episode of The Run-Through with Vogue, host Rachel Scott engages in a compelling conversation with three trailblazing women designers—Ayo Adebiri of Diatima, Julie Kegles, and Colleen Allen. The discussion delves into the intricacies of operating independent fashion labels in 2025, highlighting the challenges, triumphs, and evolving landscape of the fashion industry for women entrepreneurs.

1. Introduction to Emerging Designers

Rachel Scott sets the stage by contextualizing the current state of women in high-level fashion roles. She emphasizes the abundance of female talent juxtaposed against the scarcity of women in top design positions within major fashion houses.

Quote:
"There is no shortage of female talent in the industry." — Rachel Scott (02:25)

The conversation primarily focuses on Ayo Adebiri of Diatima, Julie Kegles, and Colleen Allen—designers who exemplify the resilience and creativity required to run independent labels in a predominantly male-dominated industry.

2. Launching and Defining Their Brands

Each designer shares the genesis of their label and the core attributes that define their brand identity.

• Colleen Allen launched her label in February 2024, describing her work as mystical, ritual, and femininity.

  Quote:
  "Mystical, ritual, and femininity." — Colleen Allen (04:35)

• Julie Kegles initiated her brand in March 2024, characterizing it as social, story, and fun.

  Quote:
  "Social, story, and fun." — Julie Kegles (05:06)

• Ayo Adebiri founded Diatima in 2021, describing it as sensual, nuanced, and artisanal.

  Quote:
  "Sensual, nuanced, and artisanal." — Ayo Adebiri (05:34)

3. Influences and Inspirations

The designers reflect on the influential women who have shaped their careers and creative visions.

• Ayo Adebiri cites Miuccia Prada as a significant inspiration, admiring her ability to build a formidable business while maintaining artistic integrity.

  Quote:
  "I'm endlessly inspired by Miuccia Prada." — Ayo Adebiri (06:00)

• Julie Kegles appreciates Lara Violeta for her authenticity and collaborative spirit, which influences Julie's approach to building a community around her brand.

  Quote:
  "I really strongly believe in collaboration because it's very hard to do this just on your own." — Julie Kegles (07:13)

• Colleen Allen admires Grace Wales Bonner for carving out her unique space in the fashion world, blending authenticity with artistic expression.

  Quote:
  "Grace Wales Bonner has really carved out her own space." — Colleen Allen (08:07)

4. Navigating Challenges as Independent Women Designers

The conversation delves into the dual narratives shaping the fashion industry: the underrepresentation of women in top design roles and the myriad challenges faced by emerging independent designers.

4.1 Balancing Creativity and Business

• Julie Kegles discusses the strenuous balance between creative endeavors and the practical aspects of running a fashion brand.

  Quote:
  "Balancing creativity with the practical side of running a business is the biggest challenge." — Julie Kegles (13:43)

• Ayo Adebiri highlights the overwhelming demands of managing a growing business largely on her own, emphasizing the struggle with cash flow and capital investment.

  Quote:
  "Cash flow is still the most difficult thing because you have to invest so much into building the business." — Ayo Adebiri (15:40)

• Colleen Allen shares her approach to mitigating financial pressures by consulting for other designers, allowing her to focus on creativity while sustaining her brand.

  Quote:
  "Consulting as a designer takes away a lot of the pressure and allows me to work from a place of creativity." — Colleen Allen (17:43)

4.2 Operating Within a Male-Dominated Industry

The designers discuss the persistent male dominance in high-level fashion roles and the importance of independent brands in challenging this status quo.

• Ayo Adebiri reflects on the barriers faced by women, especially those from marginalized backgrounds, in ascending to creative director positions within major houses.

  Quote:
  "It's a really conservative industry, especially where power and money lie." — Ayo Adebiri (30:10)

• Colleen Allen expresses hope for a generational shift, inspired by her experiences with powerful women in the industry.

  Quote:
  "I have hope for women in the industry. It's an exciting time and the conversation is being had." — Colleen Allen (31:28)

5. Engaging with Customers and Building Community

Understanding and interacting with customers is pivotal for these designers. They share strategies for gaining insights into consumer preferences and building loyal communities.

• Ayo Adebiri emphasizes the importance of direct interactions with retail partners and customers to refine her offerings.

  Quote:
  "Talking to customers on the floor helps me understand what they gravitate towards." — Ayo Adebiri (23:46)

• Julie Kegles highlights the emotional fulfillment of seeing customers engage with her designs and the value of building relationships through feedback.

  Quote:
  "It's so emotional to see people style a piece that communicates their personality." — Julie Kegles (25:11)

• Colleen Allen discusses the educational experience of Fashion Week showrooms, gaining firsthand feedback from editors and buyers.

  Quote:
  "Walking through a showroom with editors and buyers is a great educational experience." — Colleen Allen (26:55)

6. Aspirations and Vision for the Future

The designers share their dreams and visions for their brands and their roles within the larger fashion ecosystem.

• Ayo Adebiri aspires to achieve longevity and meaningful impact, dreaming of her brand becoming a global luxury name.

  Quote:
  "Longevity and adding something meaningful to the industry are key components of my vision." — Ayo Adebiri (47:05)

• Julie Kegles envisions her success as a balanced and healthy growth of her company, marked by passionate team members and a global presence.

  Quote:
  "Success would mean a balanced company growing in a healthy way with passionate people." — Julie Kegles (48:47)

• Colleen Allen dreams of sustaining her creative endeavors and having the support system to keep her brand relevant and vibrant.

  Quote:
  "Success for me is being able to create in an uninhibited way and being supported sustainably." — Colleen Allen (47:28)

7. Recommendations for Industry Support

The episode concludes with the designers advocating for increased support from the fashion industry to nurture emerging independent brands.

• Julie Kegles and Ayo Adebiri call for better cash flow management, timely payments, and financial support mechanisms such as grants.

  Quote:
  "More deposits when selling collections and ensuring timely payments would be a tremendous help." — Julie Kegles (37:57)
  "Access to capital and better cash flow support are essential for independent brands." — Ayo Adebiri (38:11)

• Colleen Allen emphasizes the need for infrastructural support, such as access to physical spaces for shows and collaborations with other industry stakeholders.

  Quote:
  "Aligning brands with collaborators like hair and makeup artists can elevate our presentations." — Colleen Allen (42:20)

• Ayo Adebiri suggests utilizing unused commercial spaces in cities like New York to provide affordable venues for emerging designers during Fashion Weeks.

  Quote:
  "Donating commercial space to Fashion Week could help independent brands access necessary venues." — Ayo Adebiri (42:19)

8. Advice and Personal Reflections

In a heartfelt exchange, the designers share personal advice and reflections to support one another in their entrepreneurial journeys.

• Ayo Adebiri underscores the importance of self-care amidst the demanding nature of running a fashion label.

  Quote:
  "We have to take care of ourselves. That has to be a priority." — Ayo Adebiri (44:27)

• Julie Kegles encourages trust in one's intuition and staying passionate about projects that ignite excitement.

  Quote:
  "Trust yourself and only do things that make your heart race." — Julie Kegles (44:31)

• Rachel Scott advises maintaining open communication and fostering a supportive network within the industry.

  Quote:
  "Be open to receiving and giving advice. Life is about learning." — Rachel Scott (45:29)

9. Defining Success

When asked to define success, each designer articulates a vision centered around creativity, sustainability, community impact, and personal fulfillment.

• Ayo Adebiri seeks to introduce meaningful additions to the fashion industry and achieve long-term brand recognition.

  Quote:
  "Adding something meaningful that didn't exist before and achieving longevity in the industry." — Ayo Adebiri (47:05)

• Colleen Allen focuses on continuous creativity and sustainable support systems that allow her to contribute authentically to the fashion world.

  Quote:
  "Being able to keep putting things out into the world is the best feeling." — Colleen Allen (47:28)

• Julie Kegles envisions a balanced and steadily growing company, marked by passionate collaboration and global recognition.

  Quote:
  "A balanced company growing in a healthy way with passionate people around me." — Julie Kegles (48:47)

10. Closing Thoughts

The episode wraps up with Rachel Scott highlighting additional resources for listeners, including an article featuring the guests and a recent Vogue Business piece on the predominance of white men in creative director roles.

Final Note:
Listeners are encouraged to stay connected with The Run-Through with Vogue for future episodes that continue to explore pivotal conversations in the fashion industry.

This episode offers a profound exploration of the hurdles and aspirations for women leading independent fashion labels. By sharing personal experiences and collaborative insights, Ayo Adebiri, Julie Kegles, and Colleen Allen provide valuable perspectives on fostering a more inclusive and supportive fashion ecosystem.